Got the MIL during the hot summer last year but went away after a month. Then it came back and went away a few times until last time was on for half a year. Finally got fed up and bought a cheap OBD2 reader for $20 and got the code P1444.

Reset the ECU but MIL came back after 100 miles. Tried two more times and came back twice. So seems like I can reproduce the problem.

First try is take out the EVAP purge valve next to the engine. Carbon poured out of the inlet. Tested with 12V battery and sure enough the valve was stuck open. Shake it vigorously and bang it on the table took care of the problem. Put it back, and the valve was instantly clogged up again.

Second try is put a fuel filter inline before the valve and watch the carbon beads filling up the filter but the valve remains functional.

So I have this setup done for a month and 2000+ miles. MIL is still quiet. This seems like took care of the problem.

My questions are, 1) will it cause any harm? I know the canister is leaking carbon. But as long as the carbon is caught somewhere before it reaches the valve, it should still do what it suppose to - filter the fuel fume. Am I right? It is a $5 vs $200 question. 2) more importantly, will it still pass the Cali smog check?

Thanks for any answers in advance.

The super bright white item is the fuel filter added on:
Modified by chaonis at 1:54 AM 8/5/2009

This is the same temp fix I have on my Pathy until I can afford to get a new charcoal canister. Will it pass smog? I don't really know. But my dad (who was a licensed CA smog tech) is the one who recomended the temp fix...

Great shade tree mechanic trick!

Can you put the filter where it can't be seen? I'm pretty sure it will pass then.And the only time I can remember the smog tester looking under the hood was when the 'vette failed because a vacuum line was broken and he was looking for the problem. Pretty cool guy, he was a test-only station (can't dorepairs), and he said, MMM, I can't hook that back up, but you can, and I betit will pass. And didn't charge me for the retest.

Chaonis, This is a great post! P1444 code was being sent out after I replaced the charcoal canister. I took the purge valve off and blew into it, and it was also stuck open. I hit it a few times on the metal housing (lightly) and it closed the valve. After resetting the ECU, the code has not come back up! Thank you for saving me 200 bucks on a new part. The filter seems to be a good addition to the system, however I will see if it happens again before I snip that hose and put in a filter that should have been a standard feature.

i need to do this too except i think the fuel filters for our cars would be too big .

anybody know a part # for a fuel filter small enough for this mod?

Just go down to your local auto parts store. You'll need to know the inside diameter of the line. Tell them what you need.

However, California smog check now involves a visual inspection. Over on Corvette Forum, there's lots of wailing about it.


Chuck

lol how does that fix not pass inspection? nothing wrong with having an extra filter in your fuel vapor lines right?

Is adding the filter a wise preventative measure even if no issues are being experienced?

Towncivilian wrote:Is adding the filter a wise preventative measure even if no issues are being experienced?

well since the post is in this thread, the "issues" would be charcoal getting through to fuel lines, clogging the valve

What I'm saying is, if the charcoal canister decides to puke its guts out, would a small in-line fuel filter preventatively installed prevent clogging up the valve, though still possibly result in a CEL or other noticeable issue?

This is a wonderful post and I thank you for sharing this money saving tip. I replaced my Charcoal Canister in my 1998 QX4 after receiving the code. After driving about 800 miles I am still finding about a tea spoon full of charcoal in the fuel filter each time I remove to inspect it. I usually inspect it 3 times a week. I must have collected at least a half cup or more of charcoal in the last month. It usually fills up after short trips and not so much on the longer trips. My question, is this normal? The service engine light/code has not come back on but I am surprised by the amount of charcoal in the line. How long is the evap line and has anyone else experienced this issue using this technique?



Alex

UPDATE: Well, it's August 26th and the fuel filter is finally charcoal free. It took three months and 2000 miles. I am going to leave the filter on for a few more weeks to make sure it is completely clean.

i just replaced my evap canister too, i should see if there is still charcoal i n the lines, though i passed the smog check no problem.

just wondering, what size fuel filters you guys using? the ones for our cars are way too big

I use a cheap (metal housing) fuel filter that is the same size as the cars fuel filter.

m0nkeyprince wrote:i just replaced my evap canister too, i should see if there is still charcoal in the lines, though i passed the smog check no problem.

My SES light came on today. First time in 4 years. No complaints there.
Code reader gave two codes, both related to evap system. (Truck still runs fine BTW.).
Searched through various threads with little luck, so my question is: where exactly is this evap cannister located?
Is it something I should replace after 10 years and 260,000 KMS? Is it easy?
Also, has anyone tried taking one from a junker, to save some money?
Thanks.

The EVAP canister is located under the driver's side rear of the vehicle. See EC-39.

Yes, some have used junkyard canisters without problems. I don't think it's a preventative maintenance item - just replace it when it starts causing codes.

What are the specific engine codes?

Same codes as most people have been getting: P0455 and P1448.
I erased the codes yesterday, and the light hasn't returned...yet.
I think I found the cannister. Behind the driver's side rear wheel, up into the chassis near the rear bumper.
Looks like fun getting that thing out....NOT.
Thanks.

Is your gas cap original? If it is, replace it with a new OEM gas cap to begin with. Also check for clogging or particulate matter in the various hoses.