Oil cooler leaking...

[NeedMoreCowbell]

I have a 2008 Nissan Rogue. Out of warranty.

Noticed some oil on my garage floor and took it to my dealer who said the oil cooler and lines were leaking. They want $800 to replace them.

I did specifically ask if it was just the gasket, they said no.

Questions:

Is this something I can do myself? I'm a brave DIYer with reasonable amount of tools and motivated to save the money, although I have very little experience with engine maintenance.

If not - should I try another shop, maybe an independent mechanic? Is $800 reasonable for this job?

Thanks!

[ImStricken06]

$800 seem pretty high.

can you tell me which cooler is leaking? engine oil? transmission oil? i have the 08 and we have a transmission fluid cooler.

[NeedMoreCowbell]

Thank you for the fast reply.

It's the transmission cooler that's leaking. I'm wondering how it can be leaking outside of a visible crack or something - could this be one of those situations where an o-ring/gasket replacement will _probably_ fix the issue, but replacing the whole assembly _definitely_ will fix the issue and since replacing everything will make the dealer some money that's what they're recommending?

Thanks for any advice. $800 is a lot ... I was told parts-only would be under $500.

[ImStricken06]

you dont need to use their cooler. any fin & tube style cooler will do. (see image below). i installed one just fine in a 2002 maxima i had, and it worked great.

your problem, is this: you gotta find where the leak is coming from. is it a gasket? if so = just replace the gasket. is it the cooler? replace that. is it a line? then replace that. one thing though: if its a gasket, it could really be the part itself thats warped - not the gasket thats attached too it. so if you are already in there: just replace whatever is attached to the gasket(usually an extra $100 or so). this way you wont find out the hard way.

start with cleaning and wiping everything down really well. spray brake cleaner to make sure. then within a day or so, crawl back under and see where that leak is coming from. this way you can pretty much tell what is what; and where to go from there.

dont forget CVT fluid is really-really expensive!



this is from my car:

[NeedMoreCowbell]

Thanks again - I saw your posts on the other thread regarding a transmission cooler leak and found the pics and your writeup especially helpful.

I asked the service rep to push the technician for more info - like where it's leaking from, and whether retightening things would help the issue. He just called me back and said they degreased the entire unit, started the car, and watched as the fluid started to come out of the 'IN' hose. Then within a few seconds they said it started oozing out of the fins. So that's why they're saying the entire assembly needs to be replaced. Does this sound reasonable? I do wonder how seemingly everything connected to this trans cooler can start leaking all at once... but I always assume dealerships need to make a buck.

My issue with using a 3rd party cooler: my CVT was one of those that was given a 10yr extended warranty from Nissan due to that slight rattle coming from the CVT, so if I use a non-OEM cooler that would threaten that extended coverage.

Any further thoughts or opinions would be very welcome.

[veery]

May be a partial blockage which is raising pressure at the inlet.

Tell 'em you'll pay $600 for it (if you will ) and see what they say.

Parts for around $400 online. An hour of labor.

[ImStricken06]

Thanks again - I saw your posts on the other thread regarding a transmission cooler leak and found the pics and your writeup especially helpful.

I asked the service rep to push the technician for more info - like where it's leaking from, and whether retightening things would help the issue. He just called me back and said they degreased the entire unit, started the car, and watched as the fluid started to come out of the 'IN' hose. Then within a few seconds they said it started oozing out of the fins. So that's why they're saying the entire assembly needs to be replaced. Does this sound reasonable? I do wonder how seemingly everything connected to this trans cooler can start leaking all at once... but I always assume dealerships need to make a buck.

My issue with using a 3rd party cooler: my CVT was one of those that was given a 10yr extended warranty from Nissan due to that slight rattle coming from the CVT, so if I use a non-OEM cooler that would threaten that extended coverage.

Any further thoughts or opinions would be very welcome.

got-chya. ok so you are VERY LUCKY, as its only the actual little radiator. Part # 21606-1XF0A

worst case scenario, buy this kit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-CVT-Oil- ... 69&vxp=mtr

it has everything that is OEM. the mini radiator is 3 bolts. the two coolant lines are simply "squeeze-ring" clips.
the rest of the junk you can sell on ebay. OR JUST ASK YOUR DEALER HOW MUCH A NEW transmission RADIATOR/COOLER IS, and install it yourself. its litterally, 3 bolts, and 2 hose clamps(squeeze-rings).

[ImStricken06]

OR JUST BUY THE LIL RADIATOR ITSELF: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-2013-Nissa ... ce&vxp=mtr

ALSO BUY A BOTTLE OF NISSAN SPEC CVT FLUID, FILL THE MINI-transmission RADIATOR PRIOR TO INSTALLING IT, AND QUICKLY CAP IT SO NOTHING SPILLS OUT.
THEN AFTER INSTALLING IT, POUR SOME MORE (whatever you think you lost in total from the beginning of initial fluid loss) and you are done.

[NeedMoreCowbell]

Thanks - so you think this can be done by a layman? Will I need to lift the car at all to access that radiator or can I tackle it from the front/top? I've looked for how-tos but only see o-ring replacement info.

The 2nd ebay link is just for the radiator - any opinion on if I should try to replace all the lines too? I guess I could try just the radiator and see how it goes, then replace the 'in' line if I have to?

One question - why pour the CVT into the radiator before installing, instead of installing and then pouring it in? Is there no easy way to purge air from the system after installing?

Thanks again for all the help. Swallowing $340 + some CVT fluid isn't too fun but much easier than $800+.

[ImStricken06]

Thanks - so you think this can be done by a layman? Will I need to lift the car at all to access that radiator or can I tackle it from the front/top? I've looked for how-tos but only see o-ring replacement info.

i'd remove the bumper to make it easier on myself. it takes 5 minutes. just remove the plastic clips on top, and under. then right behind the splash guards are 1 screw per side. the just gently pull the side flaps outward, and its removed. then unplug foglights if you have them.

The 2nd ebay link is just for the radiator - any opinion on if I should try to replace all the lines too? I guess I could try just the radiator and see how it goes, then replace the 'in' line if I have to?

hoses are available at your local auto store if you really need them. just make sure its transmission ONLY hoses. not fuel hoses. they ARE NOT the same thing

One question - why pour the CVT into the radiator before installing, instead of installing and then pouring it in? Is there no easy way to purge air from the system after installing?

its not air that you are worried about, its a dry start that you dont want. the system vents air on its own.
some people even pre-fill an oil filter; to avoid dry starts.

Thanks again for all the help. Swallowing $340 + some CVT fluid isn't too fun but much easier than $800+.

anytime man. feel free to ask away.

[NeedMoreCowbell]

Awesome, thanks again. I'm going to go this route and hope for the best. I'll update this thread with info as soon as I've made the attempt.

[NeedMoreCowbell]

One quick question:

I ordered the cooler, should be here in a week. I'm trying to determine how much CVT oil I should get. It's $20/qt from Nissan and looks like I can get it for cheaper if I buy 5 or 6 quarts online. How much does a bone-dry system hold, and if you had to guess, how much would need to get added when putting in a new cooler, assuming I lost some before/during problem discovery.

Oh, and considering the cost of this liquid gold, when I take the old cooler off should I try to salvage whatever is in there or just chuck the whole thing?

Thanks!

[ImStricken06]

One quick question:

I ordered the cooler, should be here in a week. I'm trying to determine how much CVT oil I should get. It's $20/qt from Nissan and looks like I can get it for cheaper if I buy 5 or 6 quarts online. How much does a bone-dry system hold, and if you had to guess, how much would need to get added when putting in a new cooler, assuming I lost some before/during problem discovery.

Oh, and considering the cost of this liquid gold, when I take the old cooler off should I try to salvage whatever is in there or just chuck the whole thing?

Thanks!

the whole system holds a couple quarts. i wouldnt salvage old fluid. i would fill the system, and add the rest of the bottle into the dipstick.

i cant give you even a rough estimate, as i cant see how much/how fast its pouring out.

[NeedMoreCowbell]

Thanks - got 2 qts from Nissan and will add as necessary. Now I just wait for that cooler ... hopefully the huge storm near me doesn't keep holding up deliveries.

[veery]

One quick question:

I ordered the cooler, should be here in a week. I'm trying to determine how much CVT oil I should get. It's $20/qt from Nissan and looks like I can get it for cheaper if I buy 5 or 6 quarts online. How much does a bone-dry system hold, and if you had to guess, how much would need to get added when putting in a new cooler, assuming I lost some before/during problem discovery.

Oh, and considering the cost of this liquid gold, when I take the old cooler off should I try to salvage whatever is in there or just chuck the whole thing?

Thanks!

the whole system holds a couple quarts. i wouldnt salvage old fluid. i would fill the system, and add the rest of the bottle into the dipstick.
i cant give you even a rough estimate, as i cant see how much/how fast its pouring out.

But only fill it to the mark!! Overfilling can cause issues.

[zakmartin]

Clamp off the fluid in and out lines with a pair of hose pinch-off pliers (meaning two of them):

http://www.amazon.com/SK-Hand-Tools-Sta ... ose+pliers

You don't have to buy those exact ones (though these are VERY good, pro-grade, made in the USA tools). You just want to clamp the lines so you don't have fluid spilling everywhere when you disconnect them from the radiator. Be sure to have a drip pan under the car to catch any excess fluid and wear latex gloves.

A quart or two of Nissan OEM CVT fluid is essential. Fill the new radiator with fluid before you connect the lines. Start with the lowest line, lift the radiator and connect the top line. You'll have a lot less air in the system by starting with a full radiator and clamped off hoses.

It is ESSENTIAL you check the fluid level in your CVT when you finish this job. If the transmission radiator has been leaking, then there's a strong liklihood you're CVT fluid levl is low. This condition can destroy your CVT. Follow the FSM procedure to fill the CVT system to the proper level. Stay within the specified range. An overfilled CVT is as prone to damage as an underfilled one.

Empty the fluid in the old radiator into a glass jar and compare it visually to the new fluid. If the old fluid is dark, you might want to get a flush. Expect that to run you between $200 and $250. Optionally, the dealership can connect the car to the CONSULT tool and it will tell them if the condition of the fluid necessitates replacement, but you'll get charged whatever the minimum diagnostic fee is for that service (usually $80 or so).

[NeedMoreCowbell]

Hi all,

Sorry for the lag in updates. First I'd like to thank everyone for all the help. I was able to remove the bumper and replaced the very beaten-up looking old transmission cooler with a brand new one. I used a razor to cut off about 1/2" of hoses that were connected to the old cooler as it looked a little worn. I also carefully filled the new radiator with CVT fluid as instructed.

In the end everything looked great! Started the car and noticed no leaking. It was little odd though, when I checked the CVT fluid level after putting in the new cooler it wasn't low. I was expecting needing to add at least a quart or more but ended up putting in less than 1/8 of a qt.

Now the bad news - after driving it for a while and parking over paper I am noticing some slight leaking. Looks like the same fluid as before. The Nissan techs wrote "leaking from trans cooler and lines" so I'm wondering if I should have replaced the hoses as well? To be honest I don't see how I can do that as it seems like I can't get at the lines.

Thanks again for the advice given, and any additional pointers!

[ImStricken06]

Now the bad news - after driving it for a while and parking over paper I am noticing some slight leaking. Looks like the same fluid as before.

could be renants from the old leak. did you wipe everything down? remember as it dripped, you were driving, so it could have traveled back a few inches. follow all the possible wet spots and wipe it down. finding the new leak will be easier.

so I'm wondering if I should have replaced the hoses as well? To be honest I don't see how I can do that as it seems like I can't get at the lines.

yes absolutely. when i do a job, i always replace everything that is cheap so i dont have to go back in. its one less thing that can go wrong in the near future.

you can find TRANSMISSION FLUID hose at your local auto parts store. do NOT use fuel line, as they are NOT the same. the morons at your autoparts stores will try and tell you they, when they are not. the hose is sold on a giant roll, so you will need to ask them for a certain amount of feet. just measure what you might need plus a 2 extra feet just in case. when you get home, use a razor to cut the exact sizes needed.

PS: good work man. you should be proud of yourself. not many would have tackled this job. i certainly am proud of you!

[NeedMoreCowbell]

Thanks for the props, that made my day.

I would have replaced the hoses but I didn't see an easy way to get to them. If I end up needing to replace them, how difficult would that be? I can take the bumper off again no problem, but is there anything else I need to remove to get at the lines? My buddy has a pair of those rhino-ramps, will borrow those to get the car up a bit and will have a look as soon as it's not 10F outside...

[ImStricken06]

USUALLY its just a squeeze clip on either end. squeeze the clip to expand it thus releasing its its grip around the hose, drag it back a few inches, and pull off the hose.

[NeedMoreCowbell]

I was able to easily remove the hoses from the radiator when I swapped the radiator out, but it looks like the hoses went back into the engine a good length. I wonder if I'd be able to get to wherever the hose goes, into the engine bay?

[NeedMoreCowbell]

Any advice would be welcome - how difficult is it to replace any of the hoses that are connected to the transmission radiator?

[ImStricken06]

Any advice would be welcome - how difficult is it to replace any of the hoses that are connected to the transmission radiator?

simple man. just follow the same hoses all the way back and remove the clamps

[JWMaloney]

Hi all,

Sorry for the lag in updates. First I'd like to thank everyone for all the help. I was able to remove the bumper and replaced the very beaten-up looking old transmission cooler with a brand new one. I used a razor to cut off about 1/2" of hoses that were connected to the old cooler as it looked a little worn. I also carefully filled the new radiator with CVT fluid as instructed.

In the end everything looked great! Started the car and noticed no leaking. It was little odd though, when I checked the CVT fluid level after putting in the new cooler it wasn't low. I was expecting needing to add at least a quart or more but ended up putting in less than 1/8 of a qt.

Now the bad news - after driving it for a while and parking over paper I am noticing some slight leaking. Looks like the same fluid as before. The Nissan techs wrote "leaking from trans cooler and lines" so I'm wondering if I should have replaced the hoses as well? To be honest I don't see how I can do that as it seems like I can't get at the lines.

Thanks again for the advice given, and any additional pointers!

Hi,

I am trying to locate just the four-port heat exchange block for my vehicle. Do you happen to have the part number for the cooler that you ended up buying? Was it 21606-1XF0A? Did it come with both the cooler *and* the heat exchange block, or was it just the cooler?

I've seen mixed information that the part number above is for just the block or just the cooler.