Damn thats awesome!, Did you use the Springs off a J30 or the 300zx? I'm eager to see how the stance of the car will be with those shorter struts!

Gerardjg wrote:Just thinking out load, how much did you have to grind off of the nuts, I have a pair of junkyard struts and would like to prepare the nuts first.
Keep us updated after the install.

I went all the way down to the threads to be safe in my mind, but this really depends on the length of the insert you get. I wanted the same amount of threads showing with the new insert as there was with the original, which was only one.

J30_Kidd wrote:Damn thats awesome!, Did you use the Springs off a J30 or the 300zx? I'm eager to see how the stance of the car will be with those shorter struts!

I used a J30 spring cause there are no 300zx's to be found in the state of Arizona that aren't already stripped to death. I will most likely cut the spring down one coil because I dont like how much gap there is between my fender and wheel. I will try to put it all together with the original uncut spring for a photoshoot if my patience doesn't get the best of me lol

jdurrty wrote:

J30_Kidd wrote:Damn thats awesome!, Did you use the Springs off a J30 or the 300zx? I'm eager to see how the stance of the car will be with those shorter struts!

I used a J30 spring cause there are no 300zx's to be found in the state of Arizona that aren't already stripped to death. I will most likely cut the spring down one coil because I dont like how much gap there is between my fender and wheel. I will try to put it all together with the original uncut spring for a photoshoot if my patience doesn't get the best of me lol

Well at least you got the hardest part done, i haven't looked much but i'm hope'n i can get my spring compressor tool in there so i don't have to take that whole assembly off the car I know at the junkyard i was able to do so but i just loosened the top nut till it popped as i stood away lol.

jdurrty wrote:

I went all the way down to the threads to be safe in my mind, but this really depends on the length of the insert you get. I wanted the same amount of threads showing with the new insert as there was with the original, which was only one.[/quote]


Some more brainstorming, instead of grinding off the bottom of the nut take it to a machine shop and open up the ID of the nut to the OD of the insert just the depth you would be removing. Then you would not need the shim and the top of the insert will be well locked in place inside the nut. Just looking at your pictures this may work what do you think.?

I like that idea! But I'm a baller on a budget so grinding the cap down was the most cost effective route for me lol. Im sure there is a dozen better ways to do this, but this seemed the easiest to me.

I have a Mill so I will go that route when I get time to do this.
Most excellent Job JD !!
Pics are a must after all is installed !

Yes great work this will be on my next project list, I just looked at a photo of the KYB inserts and they have a step at the bottom which may fit right in the
well http://www.jegs.com/i/KYB/575/365056/10002/-1?CT=999. They are only $30.00 each at Amazon but no picture there.

Ok so I got both struts finished today and went to install them, but have been running into problems nonstop. Both the lower control arm ball joint and the tie rod end were/are completely frozen in place. Mind you I have every style of ball joint puller/spreaders made, but it took a blow torch, sledge hammer, and three busted knuckles just to get the tie rod end out. Now I need a new one. I got the lower ball joint out before, but for the life of me I can't remember how. Does anybody know how or have any trade secrets on how to separate the ball joint from the hub assembly without destroying the ball joint? Thanks in advance.

Wish i could be of help, but i've never done that :-(

I used one of these http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail ... 0006402760 when I replaced the ball joints on my 95 and again when I
took the entire front strut assemblies off of a junk yard J.

It took a 40" pry bar, but we finally got those ball joints broken loose. Here are some final pictures

retaining nut cut and ground relatively flat:



all assembled:



cut mark where I cut the springs down one coil:



before:



after, you can barely tell in this picture, but cutting the spring did make quite a difference:



back together:



money shot:



this happened on the test run so it was definitely time for some new suspension:



In the end, the new struts and tie rod ends made all the difference in the world, this thing soaks up bumps and pot holes like a champ. For as much of a difference the rear struts made on this car, the front did exponentially more. I was going to make a video of how it rode, but I realized I never made a video prior to compare the ride to. The ride is amazing and you never really realize how bad something is until it gets replaced. If you have any questions, please let me know!

I should probably specify this so no once gets confused.

I only cut the spring down because I wanted the front to be lowered a bit. If this is not what you wish to happen, then leave the spring alone and you will be one happy camper.

If the spring were left alone I am 98.7291% sure the J30 will retain its factory height even with the 300zx insert.

One More Question The piece of white UHMW or plastic you put at the top end of the strut rod, is that sitting in the bearing??



After some research what do you guys think of this insert

Body Length 13.750 inches
Compressed Length 13.750 inches
Extended Length 20.750 inches
Travel 7.000 inches
Piston shaft Diamter 7/8"

Body Diameter

Top 1 5/8
Mid Section 1 3/4 About 90% is 1 3/4
Bottom 1 11/16

see Page 17 insert body type T4 in the Monroe PDF in the 9th thread by NascasrLance for a drawing

This is for a 1999 Saab 9-3 which is closer to the weight of the J


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/99-02-Sa ... ccessories

KYB 366012
Monroe 73453

Great job jdurrty!!!

Gerardjg wrote:
One More Question The piece of white UHMW or plastic you put at the top end of the strut rod, is that sitting in the bearing??


Body Length 13.750 inches
Compressed Length 13.750 inches
Extended Length 20.750 inches
Travel 7.000 inches
Piston shaft Diamter 7/8"

Yes, the plastic piece prevents the strut rod from flopping around inside the bearing. I probably should have gone with metal instead of plastic, but the plastic was cheap, easy, and worked perfectly.

Although the 300zx strut insert I used works perfectly fine, that Saab insert might be a better fit. Try it and let us know!

I will order the Saab cartridges after the holidays will report back then.

I like this!

Hey Gerardjg Check out these instead!

Monroe Part # 73948

Tube body Type T3 diameter is 1.6250 " all the way from top to bottom (same as the 300zx one Jdurrty used)

BUT! The tube length is 13.750 (Being 1/4 shorter i would think no need to grind any metal off the nut) :-)

length comp. 14.250 (.25 off the stock amount)

length ext. 22.125 (Again very close to stock)

travel 7.875 (The most travel I've seen from spec's on the Monroe site that will fit and so close to the 8" stock length)

Piston shaft Diameter 7/8" i think, it's a 73000 series like the T4 is to.

Best part O'reillys Auto Parts has them in my city for 36$ Now that's Balling Budget Style lol

By the Way Jdurrty, I was wondering how the J looked with black Rims on Pearl White, I do like, i may be getting some of those chrome black or gun metal chrome ones in the future or what ever the color is called lol What size Rim is that you have on yours? I bet if you found a way to do a black chrome on your door handles it would tie it together so nice. They kinda stand out to much with those rims IMO.

With JDurrty's hard work plus every ones brainstorming looks like we solved this issue with options

J30_Kidd

Hey Gerardjg Check out these instead!

Monroe Part # 73948
This is for a VW beetle 1,800Lbs the J is almost double in Curb weight I think but am not sure that that will make a difference in the design.

Hmm these 73948 Also fit on the Porsche 944 86-88 which has a curb weight of about 3,115 lbs, They also fit on the 924's which are kinda the same thing from what i read. AND Thats the SUPER BEETLE not just Beetle LOL. IDK the difference but thats what it is called on Oreily's Web site.

I'm not sure if the weight affects any thing with those struts cause that almost 1300 lbs more on that porsche then the beetle.

I had them sent to my store by myhouse, gonna pick them up on the way home from work, maybe try to put them in tonight... I just don't have a peice of pvc and have to get that to.. which it'll be night time after picking that stuff up. Hmm maybe a christmas eve project lol.

lol the super beetle was just a fancier version with macpherson struts and other key components to make it super... haha

Sitting on a Jetta Chassis.

My first car was a 68 bug paid $200 bucks for it in 1973 and used it for 3 years.
Great Car

OK so got the struts today, Was gonna do it but ended up getting sucked into a movie while eating dinner (aka i had a case of the blahs) lol. After wards i went and got the 1.5" PVC schd 40 tubing but couldn't find anything similar to what was used by jdurrty as a 5/8" spacer, i ended up just buying some 3/8" ID 5/8" OD Braided PVC Flex tubing or what ever it's called. Seems like i should be able to snug it on there from doing a small trial with it, but didn't feel like messing much more with it right now. I'm thinking heat it up in the microwave a lil to soften it up and smash it on lol.

Either i'll get to it tomorrow or for sure by friday sense i'm off that day :-)

Here's some random Pics lol, Sorry they posted back wards :-










And Thats a Wrap!

J30_Kidd wrote:lol the super beetle was just a fancier version with macpherson struts and other key components to make it super... haha

Can you measure the OD on the strut where the bearing sits also the shaft OD? the bearing in the strut mount is a 6303 with a 17mm ID, the ID on the nut where the shaft goes through is 27mm after the oil seal is removed.

I wish to find some off the shelf bushings for the nut where the shaft goes through and also for the bearing surface.

McMastercarr.com has Bronze bushings 17mm OD 12mm ID and 12mm long for .77 cents
and 27 OD and 22 ID 25mm long also under 3 bucks.

Hmm Well i hope i measured what you were looking for, I'm not sure what a 6303 is? Can you explain that :-)

To me the top portion where the thread is located is about 1/2 inch, maybe just a tad more below the threaded part like 17/32 or 9/16 at the most.

The whole tube body is 1 5/8 inches, it doesn't change size at all.

I manage to get that *bushing* on the top, just put the small tubing piece in the microwave for 30 sec's and then twisted it down (the threads helped it go down as i twisted it with some pliers) I cut some PVC but my dremel tool ran out of juice when i got close to it going on. Gonna go look for something else to sand it down with right now.

Thanks - the bronze bushing's I mentioned should work just need to open the ID in Lieu of the hose. BTW 6303 is the bearing part number in the strut mount 6303-2RS Bearing 17x47x14 17mm inner diameter.
Keep us updated after the install

OK Guess what, I should of posted some of this info earlier but couldn't help but start on the project. Before hand though i stopped by the tool shop and got a digital ruler so i could get a more exact measurement for ya and also a rotary tool and gloves lol. I think i'll dedicate this post to just that info, cause i got lots of pics.... Hopefully you can see but i took a reading in Inches and mm on each section. I list each one mm or in for millimeters and inches

mm

mm

in

in

in

mm

mm

in

in

mm

mm

Ok i'm not gonna lie, but i'm dead freaking tired, i was out there doing this for 6 hours cause for one i could find my pipe wrench to take that big nut off the top so had to buy one and second it got cold and windy and ya i slowed down and took alot of breaks lol. But hey not to bad for my first time doing this lol. Anyways my point is i don't feel like describing each thing i did but i'm gonna post all the pics so if any one feels like looking at them go for it.

ON a short note, it worked great, didn't have to grind the nut down and i have more travel in the strut. The pvc pipe i bought fit right into the tube, i only had to sand the inner part to fit over the strut. That rotary tool worked great.

Btw another short note, i unbolted the abs sensor and where it's held to the tube, also unbolted the brake line where it's bolted to the tube. Unbolted the sway bar and tension bar. push it down and brought it out and had the jack under it to kinda support it. Ok this is to much typing, i gotta go shower now and relax. enjoy these pictures!