Not sure how active this forum is but i do plan on spending alot of time on here. Ive been out of the build world for a few years now, but I always seem to come back. This time its just a different car. Ive been into the hyundai forums for quite a few years. there my comfort zone was and still is 96-01 Tiburons/Elantras.
I built one from a $500 pile of trash to near mint with alot of improvments but was totalled, by someone who borrowed without my knowledge, before it was completely finished. keep in mind this was 2005ish

















http://s55.photobucket.com/user/MunionC ... cked%20tib


the second i just kinda rushed and threw together gave to the ex



the third i bought cheap, put almost all my parts stash into fixed minnor problems, and sold it for double what i had in it. bought it back twice due to a blown engine(over rev), and then a bombed transmission(5000rpm clutch dumps), fixed and sold it then last owner totalled as well. will find pics if need be.


well long intro but thats what lead me out of the build world... but I got a smoking Deal on a 300zx i could not pass up. It was practically free.... and i intend to build it slowly and with taste-full mods and mix of OEM and Aftermarket parts. I pick the car up Saturday and i will develop a nice long list of parts that i will slowly acquire. Also im known for buying parts cars and selling nearly everything off them to fund my build(even if the parts donor may have been a better candidate, i stick with it)


Problems known as of now with the car :
1. 2nd, 4th gear do not engage, ill be taking the shifter apart and see if the bushings are still intact and make sure its a syncro problem before changing the tranny out
2. will need maintenance done, i believe its past the 120k mark and it has no maintenance records i may just through a t-belt on and call it a day, plan on JDM swap or a documented parts car engine.
3. headlight harness was cut for HID lights. Easy fix but could also turn major.
4. needs some reassembly before i get a good start. guess ill learn the car faster....




Will post some pics of the 300zx once i get it home and get it somewhat all together

teaser.....i took a quick pic the other day. hopefully i get some more pics today

Welcome to the forum, you will enjoy the Z cars as they are fun.

I would not focus too much on a JDM engine though, these are not like hondas and have more HP, they have the same as the USDM. Actually the USDM seem to be better cause the JDM engines seem to get beaten pretty bad. NOw if your plan is to rebuild, either one will work. Read the post below, a lot will make sense.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q ... 0277,d.aWw

Now saying that, I have a JDM TT swap, but the guy I got it from already did all the necessary stuff before I got it. I have roughly 10k miles on it with no issues on it. Others have had not so much luck.

POst some more pictures! And yes, this is a very active forum.

Welcome!
I'd also stay away from the JDM action, they are almost always sketchy at best with the issue the oil pan gets mashed into the pickup which starves the motor for oil, and blammo.
Z32's are a pretty expensive hobby, and for best results require OEM or better parts (costly) and mucho labor costs unless you do it yourself.
We're pretty active here and are happy to advise, post up pics and any questions as you go and read, read, read the other threads (especially build threads) for clues on what to do, and not to do...

well just got her home and snapped a few pics. I found some Problems that i didnt know about but overall im happy with my purchase! I love forum reads ill be doing alot of testing and as for the jdm swap i just want a whole front clip not just the engine. i need a few other misc...

Definitely looks like a project. As far as JDM clips, still the same problem as stated above. If you get a JDM engine, MINIMUM replacement;

Oil pan
Oil Pick up
Oil Pump
ALL GASKETS
120k Kit
Flush engine
Cooling and Fuel hoses
Engine Harness(can use NA harness if still in good shape, JDM one will not work due to being right hand drive)
Injectors(might as well go to new style, better for the ethanol in the fuel)

There are a few more things, but these are detrimental. You will also need to get the ECU tuned for US standards.

I understand that part. ive been building and researching builds for years. if i do the jdm swap i could build my motor and work out the problems on the swap while driving and hope it holds together long enough for the bottom end to be done. then clean up the heads possibly a port match and phenomic spacers. plus ill combo piping, possible RHD conversion(highly doubtfull, firewall seems to be way different...), a good driver seat(since RHD), ill have turbos/manifolds/injectors(maybe)/all things major required to button it up essentially but the fuel pump

Hey welcome to NICO! It will be nice to see what you end up making of the car.

well today i made some progress i fixed alot of the minor things before i found myself in a big mess....
we will just start with the positive

Horn is now working
Power windows now work and will travel all the way up and down
Fixed the wiper switch and the linkage. luckily got away with dis-assembly, clean and re-assemble.
learned the hood will raise till its on the windshield
Found nearly all the plastic for the car and a bonus triple gauge pod pillar cover, double din radio surround, extra drivers headlight, and some gauges


The BAD....
the entire headlight wiring has been hacked and will need completely rewired, soldered(splices make me cringe when i see crimp connectors which never hold) and properly labeled so in case there is a next owner he/she will not be in as much dismay as me...



well looks like a long night of more wiring diagrams and pinouts....(at least the wipers wernt this bad)


Oh and since everyone wants pics i snapped a few more. i will continue with my phone until i break down and buy a camera as it will take away from the z fund....

Holly wire-crimp Batman!

yea i was very optimistic about having it on the road till yesterday... anyone have a headlight switch connector harness, or know where i can get one? it is missing the plastic 10pin connector (7 or 9 wire will work)

Sheesh all those crimps!! I can help you get the harness, PM me.

pm sent! im guessing you've got parts cars?

Does anyone know what all the lgt fuse under the hood goes to? as in what all will it kill if i pull it?

So I've run into a problem.... i cant find and injector. i have a 1991 n/a with redtop injectors. i cant locate one can i just swap out one for another style or a whole set for a set for $90 on ebay.http://www.ebay.com/itm/NISSAN-ALTIMA-3 ... 22&vxp=mtr

is it safe to say that if my injectors and harnesses look like this




that they have beed updated to the new style? and i can just get a 93-96 n/a injector?

if i read corectly this is the old style harness?

'91 is old style injectors as the NA's didn't change until mid-'93, and the bottom picture is indeed the old style connector.
You should be able to get the old style injectors from CZP or Z1, I recommend a call to either source to remove confusion and ensure that you get the correct parts ordered.

Oh, and that wiring is super-scary...makes me shudder thinking what else lies ahead unseen and awaiting your attention.

well Ive been working on the headlight wiring.....got the new half harness wired in and assume i found there is some shorts somewhere in the system. im going to have to trace each one to its source. im thinking i may have a grounded power connector coming off the switch.

both the headlights seem to be getting power, but they have a grounded relay from the switch (pins 1-4). when i switch the lights on with green/red wires attached i get nothing. when i unhook them, i have light at the switch.... cluster, tails, tag, and dash lights are all run on the same green/red wire coming from the switch. red/yellow seems to only go to the cluster but seems to have a short to? 12v from switch when unhooked, and .2 when attached....

can anyone confirm if pin 7 should be grounded or powered?

also i have brake lights/turn signals. ilum fuse is good also have an extra fuse to pin 6 on the switch

can anyone confirm voltage at pin 7 red/yellow wire and pin 6 green/red? with the switch on and off

well heres an update on the build

1. headlights fixed 8k hids in the low beam standard bulbs in high
2. fixed transmission, messed with the linkage, got a proper knob from a miata, now shifts fine through all gears
3. interior lights all work (need a few bulbs still)
4. got seat belt buckles also from a miata
5. most of interior back together. missing under column cover, passenger door sill, carpet throughout, privacy trunk cover, all spare tire associated parts
6. brake and turn signals up and working
7. stereo installed pioneer deck, jvc 6x9s in individual boxes, sony 12 in sony box, 1200, boss amp, infinity front speakers


8. put 2k on car and found no leaks!!!


still needs an injector, a set of front turns, and a new windsheild to be a full on daily

Wow... making nice progress! Keep it up!

well ive done a few little things been kinda busy lately but ive installed led cluster lights and got a set of front turn signals. also found of the wheels i have are off an R33 skyline so i may just buy spacers and keep em around. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/cambewar ... 1052149628

almost forgot to upload some progress pics.

Well after alot of searching, trolling over old threads, driving the car, finding treasures and pitfalls, and gripping facts, I've come to the fork in the road....

route one means getting daily beater that i wont want to work on, upgrade, or feel the urge to always drive. then going all out on the car, doing more work to fix problems, rather than band-aid them. nearly every car on the road has known problems related to the "nature" of the car, all of which seem to just get band-aids or a revised cheap part. currently I believe the 300zx is one of the best base platforms to start with and nearly infinite room to grow.

sure the car has alot of problems in build design..... But so far i haven't found one issue stopping anyone from building a really nice "budget" car by just doing small tedious improvements, using stock OEM parts that have been "modified", and using good judgment on when to leave the fundamentals of the car alone.



Route two means just turning the car into a "Missile", "Daily Thrasher", or just another plan ordinary Z32. i believe this one needs no explaining.



Big plans if i go route one in this order

*AEM EMS Series 2 (biggest shortfall overcome with this step wither N/A or Turbo)
*Deletion of all extra wiring (wire tuck)>so much stuff involved you cant explain
*removal of systems which serve no benefit to me (egr, time control relays, rear wiper system, ect.)
*rear mount single turbo w/staged RPM actuated exhaust cut outs . (Only boost WOT or 3K rpm and up. details on this are slowly being worked out but looking very positive)
*full tear down to eliminate problems (decide what must go and stay forever)


plans for route two are just plain and basic and just building a car i can live with.



budget wise i could live with sinking 5K in this car over the next few years ordering parts and making them as needed along the way. most of my goals require more work than money. I Dont want to keep every luxury of the car, or remove everything, but i do want it fit to my needs.


In the end I want a more efficient, dependable, and better thought out car.

Why not both? You can do a TT swap and have 400 HP and still make it pretty reliable. These cars are a little different when it comes to turbos. Most 4 cyl it seems you always have to be in boost. These cars you can drive all day with out boosting, just have to take it easy on the throttle. I can average about 23-25 mpg in my swap, which is better than 19-21 in my NA. I daily drove mine for almost a year after I moved, never ran into an issue. I also have about 400 hp. Just a thought.

I guess I've got this idea set in my mind, single easy to accses and not always in spool turbo. And when i do the tear down i just want to thow in some forged pistons in my na motor and keep it looking na under the hood so its not all cramed like all tt's. I've decided to just get some injectors and the new style adapters. And save for the aem.

small update got some painting done. wet sand and another 2 coats of clear will come when its all the same color. non show quality paint in the jams is fine with me as long as they match the car. the hood will be a surprise

in the process of planning out the build, Ive finnally gotten to plans for the rear mount turbo im thinking a td06h20g
http://cherrypicker.tripod.com/sitebuil ... 0g-cfm.gif

i should be between 12-18lbs of boost at 450-500cfm to be at my 300-350hp goal

But im not sure if being rear mount, a normall efficency chart wont be acurate, will effect in these numbers.

to try and cop with being rear mounted i already have a single 2 1/4 exhaust. i plan to run it into turbo and out a 4in dump tube, and pre-turbo an rpm activated exhaust cuttout from a mufflered 3in muffler. mainly to get good mpg's and turbo life. Im hoping the small to large piping will help spool faster from the higher velocity and lessen take off lag.


this is all after i put stock n/a CR forged pistons in a stock n/a block and either build or buy a standalone (AEM Series II)

basically, i know this wont happen overnight, want to know if i was on the right track? will the car handle this being a nice healthy engine with good compression, and a smooth/balanced rev, injectors and all other supporting mods? also Opinions on a pre-maf blow off? (will have both stock/tt maf and 3 bar gm map)

not much to show but alot of work update... 1of 6 injectors replaced, nose pannel on, began paint work, new highflow exhaust...lots more but heres a pic update













o and B/C work truck.....

been awhile since ive updated but much has happened since then...lots of new parts lots of money spent.

but does anyone know how the ignition to starter wiring is ran? have 12v at starter/battery side. Ive got no power to the stater selonoid. i ran a 12v to it and started right up. i bypassed the starter relay and still got nothing(put a jumper from black/yellow to black/white). the relay was receiving 12v when turning the key to start. any one got any ideas?