What's up guys! Just picked up a Q45 today, without a doubt the most comfortable car I've ever had lol.
It's pretty solid, but I have noticed just a couple issues that I have some questions about.

1. Drivers door can't be unlocked with the key. Whenever the key goes in I can't turn it in either direction. Door still locks and unlocks electrically and all, I just can't used the key.
2. It doesn't quite seem to be getting to operating temp. The stays pretty low, a quarter of the way up the gauge at very most. I assume thermostat, just want to make sure there's nothing else I should check to rule out first.
3. Driver's seat only slides on one side, has anyone had this problem?

Any pointers are greatly appreciated!

to NICO!

The thermostat sounds like exactly where you want to start on the temperature issue.

I'll let other members chime in on the other issues...

Good luck!

Heath

I will guess that the door has been re-keyed and now doesn't match the ignition.
my '95 had the t-stat fail open (well it was just the sealing o-ring internal had split, but it was allowing coolant flow when cold.
to verify this, i would check the radiator flow when engine cold and see that there is some flow even when cold.
tough to rely on the panel gauge. it is not very sensitive.
also, just bear in mind that a gauge probe that is not immersed will read cold even when the engine is near meltdown.
best is to get your consult-1 dongle (yes, even though the '97 is OBD-II, there is still a consult-1 port).
or, get an OBD-ii tool that is more than a scan, but a diagnostic as well (o2 sensor real-time, fuel trims, other ecu functions.......)

Will the OBD-II diagnostic tell me radiator flow or do I need to do something different? T-stat is pretty inexpensive so if I have to replace it I won't be too upset.

On the other hand however, I just discovered that the check engine bulb is out...so I have to replace that...and fix the multiple codes that I wasn't aware of.

Needs knock sensors, which I expected as the car is a bit sluggish accelerating. What I didn't expect though was the Cyl. 1 misfire. I assume that's due to a bad coil. I didn't notice it but I guess it just contributed to loss of power/acceleration issues. Also P1400, EGR valve? Going to have to look into that one, not sure about it.

Also, (apologies for the double post) the odometer is non-functioning. Since I have to take the cluster out to replace the check engine bulb, I need to look into fixing that while I've got it out, no point in pulling the steering wheel twice. Along those lines, what might that issue be? Just a stripped gear to replace or what? Everything on the gauges work, just not trip/odometer.

I doubt you have to actually pull the steering wheel. If you need more access room, I usually just remove the bolts that hold the steering column up to the dash.

I'd just replace the T-Stat for maintenance... the rubber seal goes bad after a while on all of them. I can't imagine anything else that would make it run cool.

The OBD II Bluetooth scanners are pretty nice to have on hand. I bought the ELM327 Bluetooth tool and use it with Torque Lite on my Android phone. For less than $10, it's a great investment. Here's a link to an updated version of the one I bought. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ELM327-OBD2-V1- ... ls&vxp=mtr

You can get it even cheaper if you're willing to wait for shipping from China.

Heath