Osram D2S Xenarc 66240 CBI bulbs: $185 /pair
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/compon ... 48707.html
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REVIEW:
I updated to these from Phillips Ultinon 85122WX - considered the finest D2S bulbs in the 6000k range. Mine were about 2 years old and began to lose their brightness. I wanted a more 'daylight' effect on the road so I switched to the Osram CBIs. I believe these are nearly the same cost as the Phillips. Osram CBI's are the ultimate in the 5000k range and are referred to as the "Rolls Royce" bulbs. They have a unique tint - not blue, not yellow, just pure daylight. These bulbs are truly amazing! They shine significantly farther than the Phillips. They cover what seems to be twice the width - on the motorway they cover 2-3 lanes on either side of my car! The road surface looks so close to daylight that I'm convinced night fatigue on long trips will not happen. I have 35w Osrams with 35w OEM ballasts.
My GoPro will be coming in this week and I will post a video.


Osram light@day LEDs : $219 /pair
http://www.motivemods.com/
currently backorderd - call them on (559)362-0194
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REVIEW:
These DRLs have the newest technology - a homologated LED bar (instead of individual LEDs).
One clean bar of light across the unit. I'm quite pleased with this design. They work perfectly - auto ON when the engine starts, auto OFF about 20sec after the engine is switched off. These are larger then the Phillips DRLs they replaced. These also have chrome trim, making them more noticeable than my previous Phillips Daylight-8 DRLs which were quite thin, all black, and barely noticeable on a black bumper. I miss how the Phillips blended right into the bumper, but I love the new technology and the appearance of a single bar of light.
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Fog Lamps: $40/ pair including bulbs
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fog-Light-Lamp- ... 593wt_1194
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REVIEW: These are actually made for the Nissan Sentra / Maxima. I read on the forum that they match our M's perfectly and they do! (The OEM part from my Infiniti dealer is $160 + installation for ONE side) These came with bulbs already installed but I wanted 3000k in my fogs so I didni't use them. Removing the lower grille wasn't as hard as I expected. You will need to pull rather hard to remove it though. Worst part was sliding a screwdriver into the small hole above the foglight to turn the inner clamp to release the outer end of the grille. It's bloody dark in there! REMEMBER to cover the surrounding area with two layers of painter's tape. As you slide the grille out, it WILL scratch the bumper. My tape had heavy scrapes but the bumper survived scratch free.
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Fog Lights: $72/ pair
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PIAA-13511-PLAS ... 2893wt_956
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REVIEW:
I am a firm believer that fog lights should be used ... well ... for fog. I can't work out why some peeps drive with their fogs on 24/7. Also, if you use white bulbs for fog, you will increase glare instead of increasing visibility. These are 2500k ... anything up to 3000k is ideal for increased visibility in fog or misty rain.


Caliper Covers: $200/ 2 front + 2 rear
http://calipercovers.com/vaf/product/li ... _model=179
http://calipercovers.com/faq/
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REVIEW:
These are an easy install. They have a powder coated + clear coated finish that will not rust or fade. The engraving is deep and will last forever. This design is solid and heavy - different from the cheap glue-on covers. These actually guide the heat and brake dust out the top and back - keeping the brakes cooler and reducing brake dust on your wheels. They aren't available with the Infiniti logo, so I bought decals. These covers can be removed and replaced in about 2 minutes for brake jobs.

Caliper Decals: $6/ 2 front + 2 rear
http://www.ebay.com/itm/INFINITI-Brake- ... 1881wt_956
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REVIEW: These are 'high heat' decals - very sturdy and will not fall off or wear off. They were designed specifcally for high heat surfaces like calipers. Since mine are on my caliper covers instead of the actual calipers, the heat is reduced so they will likely last a very very long time.

Brakemotive Rotors and brake pads: $189/ 4 rotors + 4 pads + optional hardware kit
Currently backorderd but available on Ebay soon - call them on:(877)-477-9320
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REVIEW:
No need to say much about these by now. Everyone on the forum that uses them is quite happy with them. I noticed a huge difference in braking - very quiet, very very smooth, and they don't fade even when braking from high speeds. The braking force remains constant and smooth from the first touch of the brake pedal untill you stop.

Total bill for these mods: $911 + shipping for 2 items (all Ebay items shipped free)

Nice little "beauty rejuvenation" mate...like a lady's day at the spa for you car. Are you interested in selling your old Philips bulbs to a fellow Floridian?

I have been helped numerous times by numerous peeps in here so decided to 'give back' on the Phillips DRLs. I posted a notice early last week offering them for free and they went to the first person who responded. They will be on an M in Virginia any day now, LOL.

Turns out I actually DO have a video to share until my GoPro gets here.
I had completely forgot about the car camera! It runs 24/7 to document an accident or event. I went off on a drive last night along A1A by my house and also through a mate's area where there are few street lights. Mind you, this is a ho-hum quality cam INSIDE the car so it films through the windscreen. The camera is mounted at the top of the windcreen and angled slightly down so it doesn't capture the view angle from the driver seat looking forward over the hood. Osram CBI bulbs (and others) get brighter and stronger after the 'break-in' period and I reckon I have less than 3 hours on them in this video so they are not broken in yet. The car camera records at 1080p, but YouTube won't allow you to change the resolution that high on playback ?!?!?

Some things to notice whilst watching:
1) Driving directly under a street light, this camera records a weird colour coming from the headlamps. It has always done this for some unkown reason.
2) About 10 seconds in, you can see the sharp cut-off on the passenger side as I pass a white car on my right.
3) Notice how the light bean is very wide. On a 4 lane road, it lights all 4 lanes and entire intersections.
4) Looking straight forward, you will notice how far the beam reaches in front of the car, illuminating road reflectors, etc.
5) The AFS feature is also more pronounced with the headlamps turning just as the car begins to make a L or R turn.
6) When passing another car, and at stop lights with a car next to me, my headlamps wash theirs out, almost as if they have their lights OFF.

For purposes of ownership, the music tracs are:
Empire - Shakira
Gorilla - Bruno Mars

When my GoPro gets here, I will do a proper video with the camera mounted outside and aimed forward, duplicating what you see whilst driving.

http://youtu.be/DnyP14B6wXA
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Larz,

Would you have any pics of the lower grille removal process? I have been really wanting to remove them to replace my fog lenses as well. I tried pulling them out with my fingers but feel if I pull any harder I am going to break them off. Should I use masking tape surrounding all around the grille?

Thanks,

Any pics of the DRLs on?

40belowceo wrote:Larz,

Would you have any pics of the lower grille removal process? I have been really wanting to remove them to replace my fog lenses as well. I tried pulling them out with my fingers but feel if I pull any harder I am going to break them off. Should I use masking tape surrounding all around the grille?

Thanks,

I highly recommend at least two layers of good painter's tape around both sides and across the bottom and don't be stingy in the corners. As far as the upper inner bumper, I didn't tape at all up there and it didn't scratch the bumper in hat area. I followed the diagram above (which, as we've come to know with Infiniti - made no sense at all).
A few black coloured phillps head screws at the edges of the grille would work perfectly fine, but this is Infiniti and they can't be bothered with common sense or simplicity.
Here is what I did and I apologise for not taking pics - it just didn't occur to me.
There is a small hole on the grille near the top of the fog light ring. Its pitch black in there, but with a flashlight, you will see a plastic piece with a flathead screw notch in it. Turn that plastic piece like you would a screw. It does NOT unscrew, it just takes 1/4 turn to change the position from vertical to horizontal, or vice versa. That will release the clip, but you can't start pulling the grille off yet.
There are plastic tabs at each end of the grille and also tabs along the bottom and top. You will want to start at the end of the grille closest to the center of the car and work toward the fog lamp end. Once you begin, you will instinctively know what tpo do next and how these bloody clips work.
Begin at the end of the grille near the center of the car. It is held by plastic tabs near the top and bottom that slide behind the bumper. These are hard to to release. I used a flat headed screwdriver - be careful NOT to let the crewdriver cut through the painter's tape! You must push the grille edge inward and away from the bumper pretty hard to get the tabs to move out from behind the bumper. I was worried I would break the end of the grille off, but it's actually flexible enough that it won't crack or break even when you think it might.
After you free that end of the grille, yank a little more and the tabs along the top and bottom of the grille will start to pop out. That allows you to pull the grille outward enough to get a towel or Tshirt behind it.
Use a strong towel or a Tshirt and loop it behind the grille (see the diagram above). You should have a firm grip on the bottom and top end of the Tshirt - the rest of the shirt behind the grill like a loop. Now you need to pull VERY sharply and VERY hard in quick jolts. As the tabs release, slide the Tshirt farther along the grille towards the fog light end, and keep yanking sharply. Eventually, the grille will be loose and the only thing holding it are the tabs along the outer edge. These are a pain too. You would think that the grille opens like a door and the outer tabs let go - nope. You have to find a balance between swinging the grille out and in while pulling straight toward you at the same time. When the grille is being pulled at the proper angle, it will give way and the tabs will come out. My tabs bent a bit while removing it, but they can be bent back into place before you reinstall.
The fog lamps are a slice of heaven compared to that last bit. Just one screw on either side and Bob's yer uncle.
When you re-install, you have to start with those outer tabs by the fog lights. push that end in the same way you got it out - just keep pushing them inward while adjusting the angle of the grille until they snap back in. Mine did NOT go back in as secirely as when I removed the grille, but they did go back in and the rest of the tabs will also go back in until you get to the inner edge. This will again be a pain because you have to bend the egde of the grille to allow the tabs to reach behind the bumper again.
The last step is to turn that screw headed clamp back to where it was.
If I'm honest, I have to say that my grille did NOT go back in as perfectly as it was before I man-handled it, but it IS secure and it doesn't look crook-eyed, or out of place. It appears as if it was never messed with.

DoN_BLaZe34 wrote:Any pics of the DRLs on?

Sorry Don! I didn't realize I left that out of the original post
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I tried to get pics at night but all you could see is a glare of light with no clue how the actual DRL looked. I doubt it was my HTC One's fault - more likely the bloke using it.

Lol no problem! They look good!

Larz wrote:

40belowceo wrote:Larz,

Would you have any pics of the lower grille removal process? I have been really wanting to remove them to replace my fog lenses as well. I tried pulling them out with my fingers but feel if I pull any harder I am going to break them off. Should I use masking tape surrounding all around the grille?

Thanks,

I highly recommend at least two layers of good painter's tape around both sides and across the bottom and don't be stingy in the corners. As far as the upper inner bumper, I didn't tape at all up there and it didn't scratch the bumper in hat area. I followed the diagram above (which, as we've come to know with Infiniti - made no sense at all).
A few black coloured phillps head screws at the edges of the grille would work perfectly fine, but this is Infiniti and they can't be bothered with common sense or simplicity.
Here is what I did and I apologise for not taking pics - it just didn't occur to me.
There is a small hole on the grille near the top of the fog light ring. Its pitch black in there, but with a flashlight, you will see a plastic piece with a flathead screw notch in it. Turn that plastic piece like you would a screw. It does NOT unscrew, it just takes 1/4 turn to change the position from vertical to horizontal, or vice versa. That will release the clip, but you can't start pulling the grille off yet.
There are plastic tabs at each end of the grille and also tabs along the bottom and top. You will want to start at the end of the grille closest to the center of the car and work toward the fog lamp end. Once you begin, you will instinctively know what tpo do next and how these bloody clips work.
Begin at the end of the grille near the center of the car. It is held by plastic tabs near the top and bottom that slide behind the bumper. These are hard to to release. I used a flat headed screwdriver - be careful NOT to let the crewdriver cut through the painter's tape! You must push the grille edge inward and away from the bumper pretty hard to get the tabs to move out from behind the bumper. I was worried I would break the end of the grille off, but it's actually flexible enough that it won't crack or break even when you think it might.
After you free that end of the grille, yank a little more and the tabs along the top and bottom of the grille will start to pop out. That allows you to pull the grille outward enough to get a towel or Tshirt behind it.
Use a strong towel or a Tshirt and loop it behind the grille (see the diagram above). You should have a firm grip on the bottom and top end of the Tshirt - the rest of the shirt behind the grill like a loop. Now you need to pull VERY sharply and VERY hard in quick jolts. As the tabs release, slide the Tshirt farther along the grille towards the fog light end, and keep yanking sharply. Eventually, the grille will be loose and the only thing holding it are the tabs along the outer edge. These are a pain too. You would think that the grille opens like a door and the outer tabs let go - nope. You have to find a balance between swinging the grille out and in while pulling straight toward you at the same time. When the grille is being pulled at the proper angle, it will give way and the tabs will come out. My tabs bent a bit while removing it, but they can be bent back into place before you reinstall.
The fog lamps are a slice of heaven compared to that last bit. Just one screw on either side and Bob's yer uncle.
When you re-install, you have to start with those outer tabs by the fog lights. push that end in the same way you got it out - just keep pushing them inward while adjusting the angle of the grille until they snap back in. Mine did NOT go back in as secirely as when I removed the grille, but they did go back in and the rest of the tabs will also go back in until you get to the inner edge. This will again be a pain because you have to bend the egde of the grille to allow the tabs to reach behind the bumper again.
The last step is to turn that screw headed clamp back to where it was.
If I'm honest, I have to say that my grille did NOT go back in as perfectly as it was before I man-handled it, but it IS secure and it doesn't look crook-eyed, or out of place. It appears as if it was never messed with.

Awesome!.

Thanks for taking the time to give me this detailed description! I feel more comfortable taking a stab at it now.

Thanks again Larz!

Larz, did the Philips Ultinon have a bluish tint to them? Do the Osrams have any hint of blue or just the white "daylight" effect. The reason I'm asking is because I'm looking for the slightly blue low beam with yellow 3k fog light look. Thanks in advance.

Btw, you're English aren't you? I can tell by your choice in words...lol I'm English too

nice post. i'm actually surprise by the amount of mods we're seeing for these cars. keep it up folks.

DJPlayedYA wrote:Larz, did the Philips Ultinon have a bluish tint to them? Do the Osrams have any hint of blue or just the white "daylight" effect. The reason I'm asking is because I'm looking for the slightly blue low beam with yellow 3k fog light look. Thanks in advance.

Btw, you're English aren't you? I can tell by your choice in words...lol I'm English too

The Ultinon bulbs were 6000k so they ran closer to a blue-ish tint, but not a significantly blue tint. The 5000k Osram CBI stands for 'cool blue intense' but they are about as pure bright white as I've ever seen. I see no significant sign of blue aside from the very top edge of the cut-off and I only see that when the headlamps are very close to and directly shining at a wall or the garage door. Aside from that, it appears to my eye as full on daylight. When you look at the actual lamps from outside the car they appear blue-white.
I made a post in here earlier this week whilst driving at night:
night-drive-with-osram-cbi-d2s-bulbs-t588901.html
Have a squinz and see if you detect any blue-ish tint. It may be an individual thing.

And yes, I am originally from London. <sings: I was born in England... like a blue Ford Cortina> Sir Elton John