Need new engine

[azeiler]

My engine is staring to blow smoke. Guess I've been hittin it a little too hard for too long. Anyone know where I can get a good rebuilt engine? I would like it to be prepped for turbo (i.e. proper rings, etc.). The shop that's going to swap the engines is looking for one, but I would like to do my own research too.

[jhuerto23]

Off subject but am I reading your signature right, DC Headers? They make em for our cars? How much does that cost?

[azeiler]

Off subject but am I reading your signature right, DC Headers? They make em for our cars? How much does that cost?

See my post "M35 Mods - too good to be true?"

[EniGmA1987]

Well I know two good places, but unfortunately they are in California which is the opposite coast from you.

[azeiler]

Well I know two good places, but unfortunately they are in California which is the opposite coast from you.

I saw somewhere about $195 shipping for an engine from CA. That's not too bad as long as I get a good engine. I found a small rebuilder in NJ that I might call. It would be great to actually find one in S FL, but so far no one is turing up in my internet searches. Maybe I'll have to go back to the ole Yellow Pages.

[cruzad3r]

Azeiler - long time bruh!

so i guess you don't post unless you get a catastrophic engine failure huh

what happen? want to share any gory detail?

[azeiler]

Haven't done anything since divorce started in late 2010. It's finally over and I just paid off the last of the divorce debt. Now I'm broke, but have no choice but to fix the beast.

The bottom line is that I drive too aggresively and the engine just wore out after 101,000 miles. I'm constantly using the manual shifter, especially since getting the transmission rebuilt with the shift kit. I race almost anything that sounds cool and take most corners as fast as I can. When it's wet, every corner is time to practice drifting - I love it. The other day I was in a 3-way race with a suped up Honda B2000? and a BMW M3. I took em both off the line, but shifted into 2nd late so the M3 was gaining - we then had to stop for a red light. The Honda owner said he couldn't believe he got smoked by a sedan. I need to slow down, then maybe my engine would've lasted longer.

I may have found someone local who will rebuild the bottom end and then someone else to finish it. I don't know if this will be cheaper than a crate engine though, so I'm still looking at this option and open to suggestions. And I want it to be turbo prepped (i.e. different rings, lower compression & i don't what else).

[mexillis]

have you tried g35 or 350z forums?

[azeiler]

have you tried g35 or 350z forums?

So far only one G forum and they didn't have any suggestions.

I found F1, but it looks like they only build race engines and they're very expensive.

[cruzad3r]

dude - can i be honest?

if you want to have fun, the M35 is not your car. it's a cruise for family with a little fun on a side but not meant to do what you're enjoying doing. i say get rid of it and get a silvia or a Z/G with manual. it will save you money and grief in a long run.

that's my humble opinion. you can take it or toss it i won't be offended.

Jake

[CPJ LB]

My engine is staring to blow smoke. Guess I've been hittin it a little too hard for too long. Anyone know where I can get a good rebuilt engine? I would like it to be prepped for turbo (i.e. proper rings, etc.). The shop that's going to swap the engines is looking for one, but I would like to do my own research too.

sorry to hear this bro...just curious, with all of your mods listed, are you tuned?? Uprev or anything??

here's a link to Z1 for built motors...good luck man...

http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35/in ... 3lvavbgkf2

[azeiler]

sorry to hear this bro...just curious, with all of your mods listed, are you tuned?? Uprev or anything??

I just recently had a complete computer reset, regular tune up and had the timing advanced 2 degrees. Definitely makes a difference.

[strghtedg]

Car-part is a cool little tool to find salvaged or parted out vehicles. Here is the link to the M35 engines. Also, I found a couple Japanese engine places in my searches in the past and came across a couple I just cant remember them now. I know I found one in Orlando and Opalocka in the past. I will get back to you if I come across them again.

http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi

[anotheraznguy]

depending on how much you want to spend will determine what you can do honestly...
1-2k probably used engine or rebuild current one depending on condition.
2-5k might get you a new bottom end rebuild w/ some forged goodies
5-10k fully built motor top to bottom.

All prices of course wouldnt include labor.. though swapping a vq isnt hard..

http://www.importpartspro.com/shblpa.html is an example of some short block pricing..

if you are thinking of boost down the line definitely invest in a good bottom end.
http://www.gtmotorsports.com/home.php?cat=473 is another one.

but power isnt cheap..

[azeiler]

I'm leaning toward a turbo prepped Stage 2 longblock from IPP (Import parts pro) and getting Swain Tech's Gold Coat on the top of the pistons and PC-9 coat on the Skirts. I'm thinking about coating the heads too. I just need to figure out how much everything combined will cost, including installation, fuel management system (thanks to Kyle at IPP for the heads up on this), tune and shipping core back.

But I first have to find an installer to figure out how much that's going to cost. The guy I like is an Infiniti master tech, but he's a one-man shop, can't answer his phone while he's working, and then is very bad at returning calls (and never answers emails). And he's not close enough for me to just drop in. Does anyone have any suggestions for an installer, or what to look for in an installer?

Becuase I'm not putting the turbo on right away, I need a fuel management system. I know nothing about these. Can someone explain this?

[anotheraznguy]

oh boy...
So, if you do get longblock, you will still need to buy a gasket kit for header/intake/etc...
At same time depending on mileage of vehicle you might want to replace other hard bits that while the engine is out of car. Ie.. Water pump / Rebuild valve body / Transmission / Spark Plugs / etc..
Then on top of that an engine management. It seems you can go w/ an uprev however for the motor etc.. you would use, i highly suggest against it as it maxes out pretty quickly. the engine management would be something like pro-efi or HKS F-con pro. Both cost upwards of 2k +. Then lets not forget the tune. An average tune cost from 500-1000 dollars. (This is an area where i would not skimp on at all). Now don't forget that when you do go FI you will need to drop $$$ on a turbo kit which starts at 5k for anything decent. Then on top of that customize the IC piping as it is not meant for m35. Then you will definitely need a bigger radiator / Oil Cooler / Transmission cooler / Gauges.

So at this point.. you have maybe 5-10k on motor and another 7-15k on your turbo and accessories.

One thing i forgot is the bigger injectors which range in the 500+ range for a set of 6 (Some do come in the turbo kit) however those may not be enough as you will be boosting high w/ your new block. Then on top of that you will also want to go with a return fuel system. The factory fuel system is returnless which makes FI a big pain in the but.

here is my car's mods...
http://highoctanetuners.com/Joshz33.html
I think in the turbo and accessories alone, when new. was 13k dollars. and that is with me doing all the labor myself and without a built block..

Please do more research before pulling the trigger. Ideally, you should have a plan / a power goal / and have some discussions w/ tuners in your area as they will be the ones tuning your car. Having a 2k dollar engine management will be useless if no one in your area can tune it.

Good luck and happy modding

[anotheraznguy]

also one more thing.. w/ the stage 2 long block... Do buy the ARP head studs and main studs

[azeiler]

Thanks for the heads up on all this stuff. Somehow I knew it wasn't going to be as easy as just swapping parts, throwing on a turbo and away we go. I really have to do some thinking about this. BTW Josh, your ride is sweet!!

The guys who rebuilt my transmission, who are heavy into drag racing & know me pretty well, suggested I go with a stock compression (11:1) engine and add a small single turbo. So I guess i don't really have to go 8:1? If I go 11:1 and add a small single turbo, would this still require an engine mgmt system, bigger injectors, bigger coolers, etc.?

I figure with IPP's stage 2 (w/ARP head & main studs) which is about 30-50 hp more than stock, a small single turbo, plus what I've done so far, plus a tune, should get me 300 - 350 Rwhp. I think this would keep me very happy on the streets.

[azeiler]

dude - can i be honest?

if you want to have fun, the M35 is not your car. it's a cruise for family with a little fun on a side but not meant to do what you're enjoying doing. i say get rid of it and get a silvia or a Z/G with manual. it will save you money and grief in a long run.

that's my humble opinion. you can take it or toss it i won't be offended.

Jake

Jake - I've never known you not to be honest. It's a good quality. I do it b/c no one expects it from a four-door luxury sedan.

[cruzad3r]

dude - can i be honest?

if you want to have fun, the M35 is not your car. it's a cruise for family with a little fun on a side but not meant to do what you're enjoying doing. i say get rid of it and get a silvia or a Z/G with manual. it will save you money and grief in a long run.

that's my humble opinion. you can take it or toss it i won't be offended.

Jake

Jake - I've never known you not to be honest. It's a good quality. I do it b/c no one expects it from a four-door luxury sedan.

Mod on bro mod on :-)

[atlM35]

The guys who rebuilt my transmission, who are heavy into drag racing & know me pretty well, suggested I go with a stock compression (11:1) engine and add a small single turbo. So I guess i don't really have to go 8:1? If I go 11:1 and add a small single turbo, would this still require an engine mgmt system, bigger injectors, bigger coolers, etc.?

You can leave it at stock compression, run low boost <5psi), but you will still need to upgrade fuel deivery to keep up with the added O2 brought in.
Engine management is still going to be necessary to control fuel and pull back timing where necessary.
I installed and tuned my IS300 several years back. A lot of fun, but honestly wasn't worth it. If I am ever doing a turbo project again, it'll be on a car that originally came boosted.

[anotheraznguy]

Thanks for the heads up on all this stuff. Somehow I knew it wasn't going to be as easy as just swapping parts, throwing on a turbo and away we go. I really have to do some thinking about this. BTW Josh, your ride is sweet!!

The guys who rebuilt my transmission, who are heavy into drag racing & know me pretty well, suggested I go with a stock compression (11:1) engine and add a small single turbo. So I guess i don't really have to go 8:1? If I go 11:1 and add a small single turbo, would this still require an engine mgmt system, bigger injectors, bigger coolers, etc.?

I figure with IPP's stage 2 (w/ARP head & main studs) which is about 30-50 hp more than stock, a small single turbo, plus what I've done so far, plus a tune, should get me 300 - 350 Rwhp. I think this would keep me very happy on the streets.

Thank you sir.. car was a lot of work. everything minus paint and tune was done in my garage.

So. The stock ecu pretty much fails miserably on the VQ. Any aftermarket piggyback is better than stock. depending on which kit you are looking at they usually include bigger injectors. Now a stock vq non rev up usually puts down 230-250 hp depending on dyno and how well the motor was built. But if you are getting a nice built motor i wouldnt be able to resist temptation to add more power. which means a better ecu. Also remember single turbo vs twin turbo have different power delivery as well.

A stock block VQ35de may get about 400 max without it being at the threshold of grenading. The tuner is really what makes the most difference. I am running 410+ hp on my z but its also not a daily so i dont mind the risk factor. As you make more power tuning becomes more and more important.

And based on what you said in regards to your driving style, having coolers will prolong life of your engine/trans. Even a stock Z/G/M driven hard would benefit from those coolers as heat is truely the enemy of motors.

So high comp vs low comp is a bigg diff.
High comp tuning has to be spot on to prevent detonation. High comp will also provide you with more hp off boost. however with high comp you are looking at less boost overall. Low comp is opposite, less power off boost but able to add more boost.

Start looking into the different turbo kits and see what type of setup you want to go with first. That would determine where you want to be. Remember don't skimp on engine management, saving 1k could cost you 6k in the long run especially if the motor blows.

[azeiler]

I just talked to Anthony at Horsepower Logic in Palm Beach. He said they regularly make 400hp with a FI stock infiniti 3.5L (i.e. high compression motors). And if that's Rwhp, that's more than enough for me.

So maybe I'll go with the stage 2 high comp motor and tune now, and maybe bigger coolers (and i don't mean for the beer ). Then I'll add the turbo later when I can afford it.

[azeiler]

Car-part is a cool little tool to find salvaged or parted out vehicles. Here is the link to the M35 engines. Also, I found a couple Japanese engine places in my searches in the past and came across a couple I just cant remember them now. I know I found one in Orlando and Opalocka in the past. I will get back to you if I come across them again.

http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi

I like this site - thx for sharing.

[atlM35]

I just talked to Anthony at Horsepower Logic in Palm Beach. He said they regularly make 400hp with a FI stock infiniti 3.5L (i.e. high compression motors). And if that's Rwhp, that's more than enough for me.

So maybe I'll go with the stage 2 high comp motor and tune now, and maybe bigger coolers (and i don't mean for the beer ). Then I'll add the turbo later when I can afford it.

FI means forced induction (turbo / supecharger)... That's the only way you're getting 400rwhp out of our 3.5L motors.
The intercoolers are used in a FI application.

[azeiler]

by bigger coolers, i meant radiator, oil, transmission.

[atlM35]

Sorry, completely misread your post.
I'm considering a piggyback and wideband to see if i can lean out the fuel a little and advance timing just a bit... but it might be cheaper and more reliable to get a proven tune.
Choices, choices... good luck with the motor work!

[CPJ LB]

My engine is staring to blow smoke. Guess I've been hittin it a little too hard for too long. Anyone know where I can get a good rebuilt engine? I would like it to be prepped for turbo (i.e. proper rings, etc.). The shop that's going to swap the engines is looking for one, but I would like to do my own research too.

few questions...

are u losing performance and/or having poor gas mileage... who diagnosed your car as needing a new engine??

what color smoke is coming out of your exhaust?? white, black, blue...

Have you changed your spark plugs?? if so, did you come across oil in the spark plug tube when taking out the coilpack?? this tends to be a known issue with the VQ35 engines -- most likely need to replace the valve cover gaskets...

has a compression check on your engine been done yet??

hopefully it's an easy fix to avoid having to get a new engine...but if you plan on getting FI for your car, then a built engine may be best...

good luck and let us know how things work out for you....

[EniGmA1987]

most likely need to replace the valve cover gaskets...

Those seem to be less reliable on these cars, I have owned my car 3 1/2 years now and blown the valve cover gaskets 3 times already.

[CPJ LB]

Those seem to be less reliable on these cars, I have owned my car 3 1/2 years now and blown the valve cover gaskets 3 times already.

man...that's too bad...was your engine bay full of smoke when it happened?? or just oil found beneath your car?? It's crazy how some parts for our cars are just "cheap" and destined to fail -- I guess that's how the dealership keeps getting service...

Before I picked up my M, I did extensive research on both the M35 & 45... I was going to pull the trigger on an M45 but there were far too many oil consump listings from different forums...So going into the M35, I was aware of some minor issues -- I chose the M35 for better gas mileage purposes as well as ease of parts...

knock on wood, I have been diligent about maintaining the car -- I bought the car used, so I changed/updated/replaced "all" of the known problematic issues...gave me peace of mind...

I still need to do the rear differential swap like you did....