need help with 1996 Nissan Quest EGR system problem

Got questions about your Nissan? We're here to help, and it's FREE!
mskipatrol
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2010 5:38 am
Car: 1996 Nissan Quest

Post

I'm having a problem with the EGR system on my 1996 Nissan Quest.

The Check Engine light came on so I replaced the cracked BPT rubber hose.This seems to have solved the check engine light problem, BUT I havent driven the car any long distances to verify the light stays off.

The engine runs very smooth at IDLE... when cold and when warmed up.

There is a VERY noticeable hesitation when revving the engine from idleand the engine seems rough at higher rpms.

When the engine is warm, and I rev the engine to 2500-3000 rpmand I check the EGR valve diaphragm it does NOT lift.While idling , if I manually lift the EGR valve diaphragm the enginespeed drops and will stall if lifted too far.

I detached the rubber hose attached to the top of the EGR valve diaphragm,revved the engine and I do NOT feel any vacuum on the hose.I traced this hose over to a small solenoid looking device mountedto the side of the intake opening. This solenoid has several rubberhoses attached. I detached the electrical connector on the solenoid and measure 12V on one pin. After inspecting all rubber hoses I dont see any leaks or cracked hoses.

I think I'm getting close to finding the problem, but not sure how to proceed from here. Would replacing this solenoid be a good idea? Or could there be a problem in whatevertells this solenoid to open.


mskipatrol
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2010 5:38 am
Car: 1996 Nissan Quest

Post

I checked the EGR solenoid energizes by turning on the ignitionand attach/detach the connector. I can hear the solenoid CLICKwhen I attach the connector. So I think its most likely not the problem.

I'm wondering if a problem with the BPT valve could cause these symptoms?

23 views on my post and no answers, so I'm thinking this must be areally difficult problem.....

mskipatrol
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2010 5:38 am
Car: 1996 Nissan Quest

Post

Ok, now I have a Quest service manual............

I notice there's also an EGR temperature sensor in this circuit.It appears that if the sensor isn't working to detect the engine iswarmed up, then the EGR system is essentially turned off.

I see the sensor on the bottom of the intake manifold, but cantaccess the connector to measure the voltage/resistance of the sensor. Looks like I'll need to crawl under the car to get to that :-(

Anyone here have experience with this ? Would the temperaturesensor really cause a problem like this , and do they often go bad ?

mskipatrol
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2010 5:38 am
Car: 1996 Nissan Quest

Post

HELP !Does the EGR temp sensor tell the computer to turn on the EGR system when the engine is warmed up ?

This post has 57 views and no answers
Modified by mskipatrol at 3:32 PM 2/21/2010

mskipatrol
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2010 5:38 am
Car: 1996 Nissan Quest

Post

Took the Quest for a long ride this evening, Check Engine light came back on. Next step to get the codes using a procedure I found on another site to jumper two wires and count the blinkingCE lights. Hmm, I'll talk myself through this eventually I guess.....

User avatar
Q451990
Moderator
Posts: 11477
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:21 am
Car: 1990 Q45 - 118K, 2022 Toyota 4 Runner, 2004 Frontier M/T - 108K, 2012 Xterra (Mom's), 2023 Rogue (Inlaws)
Location: Columbia, SC
Contact:

Post

mskipatrol wrote:HELP !Does the EGR temp sensor tell the computer to turn on the EGR system when the engine is warmed up ?
Looks like you've been having quite a conversation with yourself!

To answer your question - no. The EGR temp. sensor is there to detect the hot exhaust gases flowing into the intake when the ECU has the EGR valve open. So it's a check so that the ECU can see if the EGR is actually functioning. As far as I know, the EGR function isn't locked out before the engine is warmed up - but if it is, the ECU would do that based on coolant temperature.

Most EGR issues are caused by carbon buildup in the port into the intake and within the valve, but if yours isn't moving at all, then that's probably not your whole issue. Remember that the valve only opens at certain RPMs... basically at cruise - so you should feel it lift somewhere around 1500 RPMs and then drop out above about 3000. On the Q45, it doesn't lift a lot - you'll just feel it sort of rise up and flutter a little. I assume it's similar on the Quest.

Good luck and welcome to NICO!

Heath

rioredstang
Posts: 293
Joined: Sun Nov 30, 2008 3:47 pm
Car: 1993 240sx SCCA ITS
Location: Chattanooga, TN

Post

Did you get the codes? What are they?

mskipatrol
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2010 5:38 am
Car: 1996 Nissan Quest

Post

rioredstang wrote:Did you get the codes? What are they?
0607

Thanks for the reply. I used the procedure where you disconnect the diag connector near the starter solenoid and jumper pins 3 to 6 for two seconds. The check engine light blinked six long seven short,0607 which in the table says Cylinder 2 misfire detected.

Which doesnt make sense at all. Could it be that I didn't drive farenough to generate any EGR related codes ?

I did the above procedure with the ignition switch onand the engine NOT running.

If multiple codes are stored in the computer, will this procedure read out ALL the codes ? Or do I need to do something else to get more codes. Guess I could drive down to Advance Auto but that would be too easy.

Any ideas on this ?

Modified by mskipatrol at 3:29 PM 2/26/2010
Modified by mskipatrol at 3:34 PM 2/26/2010

User avatar
Q451990
Moderator
Posts: 11477
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:21 am
Car: 1990 Q45 - 118K, 2022 Toyota 4 Runner, 2004 Frontier M/T - 108K, 2012 Xterra (Mom's), 2023 Rogue (Inlaws)
Location: Columbia, SC
Contact:

Post

If you don't have the full factory service manual you can download it here.

The manual states that multiple codes will be displayed. I would look through the manual to see how to diagnose your misfire code. Maybe it's not EGR related?

Heath

mskipatrol
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2010 5:38 am
Car: 1996 Nissan Quest

Post

The 0607 is the only code I see, it just kept repeating.

EDIT: Checked the manual and for the 0607 one of the thingsthey suggest checking is the EGR valve operation. So maybesomething wrong in the EGR system, but not giving any EGR codes....

Strange thing is , the EGR valve never lifts, and there is novacuum on the rubber hose attached the the top of the EGR.I let the engine warm up fully and revved up to 4000rpm ...no EGR lift, no vacuum.


Modified by mskipatrol at 6:25 PM 2/26/2010

rioredstang
Posts: 293
Joined: Sun Nov 30, 2008 3:47 pm
Car: 1993 240sx SCCA ITS
Location: Chattanooga, TN

Post

I don't remember on the Quest. Does it have erg ports like the Fords that stop up and cause missfires. Q451990 would know better than me. I don't know if you still have a egr problem.Diagnose the missfire code next.

mskipatrol
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2010 5:38 am
Car: 1996 Nissan Quest

Post

The Quest Factory Service Manual shows the BPT valve as having TWO hoses attached to the top of the valve.

However on mine there is only one hose attached and the second port has a rubber plug. Is this normal ?


User avatar
Q451990
Moderator
Posts: 11477
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:21 am
Car: 1990 Q45 - 118K, 2022 Toyota 4 Runner, 2004 Frontier M/T - 108K, 2012 Xterra (Mom's), 2023 Rogue (Inlaws)
Location: Columbia, SC
Contact:

Post

If the rubber plug looks factory, I suspect it's OK. I think my Q has one of them... Honestly I don't have any Quest experience. If I remember correctly the Quest was a joint venture between Ford and Nissan (badged as a Mercury Villager) so I don't know which drivetrain it got...

Heath

mskipatrol
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2010 5:38 am
Car: 1996 Nissan Quest

Post

I think the plug is factory, but just wondering how the BPT can workwith only one hose. The diagram in the FSM shows one tube running to the EGR and the other tube is described as the Vacuum Source and appears to come from the EGR control solenoid.

I took a picture of the BPT, is there some way to post pictures directlyon this forum or do I need to upload somewhere else and provide a link ?
Modified by mskipatrol at 6:53 PM 2/27/2010

mskipatrol
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2010 5:38 am
Car: 1996 Nissan Quest

Post

Here's a picture of my BPT valve showing the rubber cap.This doesn't match the drawings of the BPT valve from theservice manual shown below which clearly show two different inputs. Could itbe that the service manual is incorrect ? :



Heres a diagram from the factory service manual showing the EGR/BPT system:

Heres a diagram from the service manual showing the BPT valve:

Modified by mskipatrol at 7:09 PM 2/27/2010

Modified by mskipatrol at 7:09 PM 2/27/2010
Modified by mskipatrol at 7:45 AM 2/28/2010

User avatar
Q451990
Moderator
Posts: 11477
Joined: Tue Jul 23, 2002 8:21 am
Car: 1990 Q45 - 118K, 2022 Toyota 4 Runner, 2004 Frontier M/T - 108K, 2012 Xterra (Mom's), 2023 Rogue (Inlaws)
Location: Columbia, SC
Contact:

Post

There are a couple of pictures in the FSM that show this system. The point is that the EGR and BPT valve top side are both fed by the solenoid. Check out the illustration on page EC-164, which shows your rubber plug.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/qu...c.pdf

If your EGR control solenoid is working, but there's no vacuum at the valve, you would want to check for vacuum before the solenoid.

It also occured to me earlier today that it's possible that your valve itself is bad. Do you have a vacuum pump (like a Mityvac) that you can use to test it's response to a vacuum?

Heath

mskipatrol
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2010 5:38 am
Car: 1996 Nissan Quest

Post

I removed the large rubber coupling tube between the air cleanerand intake manifold to get better access to the EGR solenoid valve.

I tested the EGR solenoid valve, when the solenoid is energized the airflow works as in the test from the service manual. Whennot energized the air flows works as described also. So theEGR solenoid valve seems to be okay. I also tested that the vacuumsource TO the solenoid, which is a rubber hose running to a port on theintake manifold does pull vacuum when revving the engine.

I'm starting to think that maybe the solenoid is NOT being energized by the ECM. According to the manual the solenoid should be pulsedby the ECM to open/close. Now I'm also wondering if the ECM is looking at other engine conditions, temperature, O2 sensor's etc to determine to pulse the EGR solenoid. If so then there may be a problemin one of those systems. In the diagram below the port C on thesolenoid valve is the input vacuum that comes from a tube attached to the intake manifold. Next step I think is to check with a vacuum gauge to see if any vacuum is making it through the valve. I'm still notclear on how much rise I should feel on the EGR valve.



Modified by mskipatrol at 2:40 PM 2/28/2010
Modified by mskipatrol at 6:09 AM 3/2/2010

rioredstang
Posts: 293
Joined: Sun Nov 30, 2008 3:47 pm
Car: 1993 240sx SCCA ITS
Location: Chattanooga, TN

Post

I think the egr and evap share vacuum from the solenoid. The egr valve shows to tee into this vacuum source. The plug stops vacuum from escaping. In the diagram air bleeds into the valve and through the top port to the egr valve. when exhaust pressure rises the port closes and applies vacuum the the egr. This is a confusing diagram to understand.


mskipatrol
Posts: 12
Joined: Fri Feb 19, 2010 5:38 am
Car: 1996 Nissan Quest

Post

I tested each of the components as described in the service manual.

1) EGR valve, apply vacuum with a small hand pump and the diaphragmlifts and holds until vacuum is released OK Also removed the small metal tube running from the BPT to the EGR and verified it was clear.

2) charcoal cannister, apply light pressure and it should hold the pressure OK

3) BPT valve, apply pressure to the bottom, and the top port shouldno longer bleed off the air, in other words it will hold a vacuum. OK

One thing I did notice, is the foam 'air filter' on the BPT valve isin very bad shape, the foam is breaking down and has several holes.I wonder if small chunks of this foam could get sucked into the vacuum system and block passages ?

Next step I plan is to borrow a vacuum gauge from a friend. I'll run avacuum line from the EGR solenoid directly to the EGR valve (eliminating the canister and BPT from the circuit) and tee the vacuum gauge off of that line through a long hose passed through the firewall so I can see the gauge while driving. Then take a long drive and see if its ever getting vacuum applied .
Modified by mskipatrol at 1:00 PM 3/9/2010

smokey12943
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Jun 07, 2010 4:36 pm
Car: 96 nissan quest

Post

i have same exact problem.. tested solenoid and works also have vaccum to solenoid but the manual says the ground that energizes the control selonoid should not have a ground on it from ECM when vehicle is warmed up... also if i unplug the control solenoid and rev to 2000-4000 rpm egr valve operates.... also cleaned intake, throttle body egr valve and checked resistances on egr temp sensor and all check out ok...
also vaccum lines are correct to diagrams in manual and no cracks or anything so i am puzzled... also cleaned out the tube from the cat to egr valve.... when i lift diaphram with fingers engine just about stalls out.... new catalytic converter.... please healp with my 302 code (EGR Insufficient Flow Detected)


Return to “Nissan Online Mechanic”