I bit the bullet and finally decided to get a engine and attempt the SR swap. A couple of months ago me and three other people, who all have much more automotive mechanical ability than I do, pulled a KA from a hatch and got rid of it and pulled another KA from a coupe and swapped that into the hatch during a weekend. Participating in this swap was very useful in helping me to remove my KA and the knowledge that I got will be useful in helping me to perform my SR swap as well. After reading other peoples build threads I don't think I can call mine a "build" because I'm just shooting for the bare-bones basic SR swap. I plan to swap out as many gaskets as I can, the front/rear main oil seals, waterpump, thermostat, spark plugs and possibly add a few aftermarket parts over their stock counterparts. If somebody sees something that I am doing wrong by all means chime in because I need all the help I can get.

*EDIT**********************************
I decided to put up a quick table of contents for those basic SR swap guys who just need a answer to that one question or just need to see that one pic to verify something.

PAGE 1------------------------------------------------
Introduction and engine breakdown(no pics).
Front oil seal replacement
Intake manifold breakdown
Thermostat replacement
Engine paint
Engine cleaning
PAGE 2------------------------------------------------
Aluminum steering bushing install
Heater hose installation
Engine bay painting
Powersteering pump problem #1
Sidemount intercooler
PAGE 3------------------------------------------------
Water pump installation
Water pump aftermarket pulley installation
Upper and lower radiator hose install
Speed sensor swapout
Intake manifold gasket install
CAS(Crank angel sensor)
Replacement Vacuum hose replacement
Turbo oil return hose install
Dipstick swapout
Fuel injector seal replacement
Fuel regulator install
Oil filter sandwich plate...YOU FAILED EBAY!!!!
PAGE 4-----------------------------------------
Coolant temp sensor replacement
Coolant gauge sensor replacement
Alternator aftermarket pulley install
Vacuum hose install(intake manifold)
Fuel injector seal replacement cont.
Fuel rail install
CAS cover swapout
Turbo breakdown
OEM T-25Turbo gasket install
PAGE 5-----------------------------------------
Water outlet/neck gasket install
Bolt/nut replacement with part #'s
PAGE 6-----------------------------------------
Altima fans vs. Permacool???
Altima fan modifications(get a dremel!!!!)
Altima fan breakdown
Spark plug replacement
Altima fan modification cont.
Altima fan mounting to Koyo rad
Transmission dust collar replacement
Transmission slave cylinder replacement
Wire harness clips part#
Transmission gasket replacement
Power steering pump problem #2
PAGE 7---------------------------------------------
Knock sensor replacement
Transmission gasket cont.
Transmission rear seal
Transmission mount install
Clutch pivot ball install
Clutch pivot fork
Turbo stainless steel line install
Transmission drain plug install
PAGE 8--------------------------------------------
Motor/Engine mount install
Turbo lines install cont.
PAGE 9--------------------------------------------
Turbo manifold/outlet install
Turbo locking nuts install
Turbo manifold gaskets install
Rocker arm install
Transmission insulator mount install
PAGE 10------------------------------------------
Fuel line replacement
Greddy oil pan install
Oil strainer replacement
DiF Fan controller wiring
Valvecover install
Valvecover gaskets install
Turbo manifold install cont.
PAGE 11------------------------------------------
Flywheel (no install)
DiF fan controller wiring cont.
Hotpipe/B.O.V. (no install)
Oil filter relocation kit install
Clutch (no install)
PAGE 12------------------------------------------
Power steering pump aftermarket pulley install
Power steering pump install problem #3
Valvecover install cont.
O2 sensor install
Boost controller (no install)
Wire harness (no install)
Power steering pump problem SOLVED!!!
Ignition grounding plate install
Water temp gauge install
Coolant/water line replacement under intake manifold
PAGE 13--------------------------------------------
Water temp gauge cont.
Clutch line (no install)
Gauge wiring for Boost/Oil pressure/Water temp
PAGE 14--------------------------------------------
Engine install (no pics)
Steel braided Valvecover T lines install
Intake filter & MAF install
Altima fan fitment modification cont.
Downpipe (no install)
Shifter bushing install
PAGE 15--------------------------------------------
Engine startup
Throttle cable modification for short cable problem
PAGE 17--------------------------------------------
Snap ring problems
Radiator feet part #
DiF fan controller problem #1
PAGE 18--------------------------------------------
Catch can install (no pics)
DiF fan controller problem FIXED!!!!
***********************************************************



I got my engine in from JSA Motors. Everything was intact, no missing pieces or parts(MAF/Ignitor chip), no broken crank angle sensor and a complete uncut wiring harness. Shipping was swift and I was able to track it to my delivery point. My only complaint was that the block was a little grimey, they said they would clean it before strapping it to the skid.

S13 Redtop SR20DET

The transmission is intact and very clean...no transmission crossmember but I can use my KA's crossmember.

First thing I did was bust open the valve cover and inspect the internals, during my research I read some horror stories about people getting engines with rust and dirt inside. Apparently someone wasn't too fond of oil changes.

After that I completely broke down the exhaust side of the block. Stripped everything!

Did the same for the intake side.

I removed the alternator, P/S pump, A/C compressor and the belt driven fan.

Broke out the bucket O' water, scrub brushes and Mean Green and started scrubbing away but I got tired of killing my back working on this engine on that old tire....

and borrowed a buds engine stand. This thing is a life saver!!!!!!

Look at all the stuff I pulled, hope I can remember where everything goes when I try to put it back.

After cleaning every knookie and cranny on this block I taped off everything I didn't want to get coated and laid down a couple of coats of high heat iron cast aluminum engine enamel to the block.

Turned out better that I thought it would.

Now that I had everything cleaned up I turned my attention towards replacing parts. The first parts that I attempted to swap out were the main oil seals. I read up on what should be changed out on any basic engine swap and the oil seals were at the top of the list among other things such as oil pump, water pump, thermostat, spark plugs, various gaskets, motormounts, oil pan, etc.

RWD SR20DET Forum by Hijacker zerothread/306956This was one of the places where much time was spent reading up and researching before I decided to do this swap...very informative and it will keep you from asking a lot of repetitive questions.

FRONT OIL SEAL REPLACEMENT

Tools needed:Socket wrench
Socket extension
27mm socket
Chain
1 transmission bolt
2 flywheel bolts
Pulley puller
Breaker bar
Seal puller or prybar/screwdriver
Seal driver

I want to change out the front and rear main seals but I can't get to the rear with the engine on the stand but the front is accesible. To get to it you need to remove the crank pulley but I couldn't get the pulley bolt off because the crank kept spinning when I tried to man up on it and I don't have any air tools so I had to think of another way. I decided to use the chain and the links that I used to pull my KA to help me.

I put two flywheel bolts through the chain and threaded them into the crank.





I looped the chain around the engine stand, stuck a transmission bolt into the link and threaded that into the transmission housing.

This kept the pulley from spinning.

This allowed me to use my 27mm socket and breaker bar to bust the crank pulley bolt loose.

Now I just need to get a pulley puller from the parts store to pop it off so I can replace the front main seal.

Here, you can see the rear main seal that I can't get to yet. Anyone know how it comes out? Does it pry out with a screwdriver or something?

Modified by positronone at 11:17 AM 5/13/2008

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yo man I know this is kinda off topic but whats your sig. all about

The way I got the rear main seal was I had to lift up the engine with an engine joist and than take it off the engine stand. Its really the only way. It comes off the same as the front one, you gotta yank it off but be careful just like the front.

looks like a very clean motor!

and also good luck on the build!

Urnext wrote:yo man I know this is kinda off topic but whats your sig. all about

The sig that I use sometimes "$500 for Dodge Colt headlights!" Switched at birth?...... Thanks for the info on removing the seals people.

Modified by positron_ at 4:18 AM 12/3/2008
Modified by positron_ at 4:21 AM 12/3/2008

holy **** lol the funny part is I have a colt for parts and a 4g63 swapped colt and I never even noticed the lights were close to my 240 lol

Looking good Posi I'd recommend a few more things too, make sure that your lower oil pan is not dented! If it is pound it out or get a new one, go ahead and replace any transmission seals you can get to as well, and install a new slave cylinder, get an S14/15 waterpump (supposed to flow better. Check out Frsport.com and compare the pics of the S13 WP to the S14/15 one). Make sure the thermostat you get is one for a stock SR (opens at 170, the KA one will fit in but it opens at 195 and SR's run a little hot to begin with, don't get a NISMO stat, it opens too cold IMO for a street driven SR). Have fun with the swap!

homeslicej2 wrote:Looking good Posi I'd recommend a few more things too, make sure that your lower oil pan is not dented! If it is pound it out or get a new one, go ahead and replace any transmission seals you can get to as well, and install a new slave cylinder, get an S14/15 waterpump (supposed to flow better. Check out Frsport.com and compare the pics of the S13 WP to the S14/15 one). Make sure the thermostat you get is one for a stock SR (opens at 170, the KA one will fit in but it opens at 195 and SR's run a little hot to begin with, don't get a NISMO stat, it opens too cold IMO for a street driven SR). Have fun with the swap!

Man...I already bought a Nismo thermostat and thanks again. I'll check that out.

I'm using an S14/15 water pump. has one part that doesn't line up (extra bold hole, dont remember for sure), but it is all sealed up and works as it should. Unsure if it "flows" better tho, but that makes me smile that i got it on my Red top.

Good start. I plan on doing a swap down the line so keep the information and pictures coming.

BuLLeTdrift wrote:Unsure if it "flows" better tho, but that makes me smile that i got it on my Red top.

S13 pump

S14 pump

from FRsport's site: "S14 SR20DET water pump is also considered as an "upgrade" for S13 SR20DET motors due to the fact of redesigned pump for better flow."

It does have the extra bolt hole, but as you said it's not an issue. It's supposed to flow better bc of the design, see how the S14 pump is sunken in more? Anyway, with the NISMO thermostat (or any very cold running stat, and 149 degrees is cold), from what I've read they open too soon and so they do not give the coolant in the radiator time to dissipate heat bc it doesn't spend much time in there before it goes right back in the engine. I have no personal experience with the NISMO though, as I have a stock thermostat.

Oi. The old S14/15 pump is better than the S13 pump debate. There is no evidence to support that "claim" . I still fail to see how it could possibly be considered to flow better when the pump is removed from the water stream. The blocks are cast on the 14s and 15s to channel the water to the pump. The 13 block lacks that casting, so all you're doing is pulling the pump away from the water stream. Please tell me how that is supposed to pump better? I fail to see how it can increase flow when the fin designs are the same and then the pump gets pulled out of the main stream of coolant flow. The whole "issue" with the S13 pumps is that they can cavitate at high RPMs. The basic design pumps great at normal engine speeds.

And honestly, until FRSport put up that unfounded claim, nobody ever considered putting a late model pump on an early model block an upgrade. I remember comparing an S15 block with an S13 block and noting all the differences pertaining to the pump. That was before FRSport listed their "claim", and I had decided back then it wouldn't do jack sh1t to increase pump flow.

I've even seen Mack from McKinney Motorsports argue against the S14 pump as well.

I will continue my tyrade against using the later model pumps on the early model blocks until someone can show me empirical proof that it is truel an upgrade.

^well crap . I bought an S14 pump for my redtop. I didn't know that the S13 SR block was cast differently for the water to channel into the pump. This is the first I have heard that the S14/15 pump didn't work as better or even as well as the S13 pump, but I know the experience you have and I respect your knowledge of the SR. I'll look into this more, thanks bart.

I'll see if I can't get a picture of the block castings in the next few days. My buddy has an S15 block we're dropping in his vert. and I have my S13 block on the engine stand waiting on bearings for my rebuild. So i can do a side by side comparison to show the casting differences.

btw went and found the two threads I rant and rave in fwiwhttp://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=276786

zerothread?id=263766

whoo-hoo! more wasted money!!! Anyway, look forward to the pics. Know anyone that wants an S14 SR water pump? I'll put it up for sale next week in the classifieds.

Hijacker wrote: The whole "issue" with the S13 pumps is that they can cavitate at high RPMs. The basic design pumps great at normal engine speeds.

Exactly!!!! It's the same issue with FWD SR's as well....get a underdriven water pump pulley, and all will be a-ok!

Today I took my intake manifold apart and cleaned it up. I'm gonna replace the gaskets and maybe the IACV as well.Broke it down, intake runners, intake collector, IACV(idle air control valve) and the throttlebody.The first thing I did was clean up the throttlebody...It was pretty dirty.Cleaned.I'll replace the throttlebody gasket when I put the intake manifold back together.The intake collector was full of carbon buildup.I got some brushes and cleaned it out pretty good too. I'll replace the intake collector gasket as well.The IACV.I can't decide whether or not to clean this up or just replace it. I came across a write-up on how to clean one but I can't find it again.Carbon build-up.Got some new hoses to replace the ones on the intake manifold.
Modified by positronone at 11:22 AM 5/13/2008

looking good so far, cant wait til i get my motor and start doing the same thing

I got my hands on a pulley puller so I could finally replace that front main seal. I tried using a prybar to work the loosened pulley off but I couldn't get it to move without putting a lot of English on it and I didn't want to risk cracking the oil pump front cover.3 jaw pulley puller-AutoZone loan a tool program.Looks like this.Just take the puller and hook the legs on the pulley and get the big screw on your crank pulley bolt. The forum says to have the crank pulley bolt threaded in a tad and to place the puller legs on the 2nd or 3rd ridges of the crank pulley rather than the first.Use a 13mm socket to crank on the pulley...until the puller pops it free. You'll be able to see the crank pulley as it gets backed off the crank while you turn the pulley puller.Front main oil seal. Part#13510-53J10The oil seal has two sides that are different and it has to be placed in a specific way so make sure you get it right the first time. This is the side that goes in towards the engine, notice the big grooves...and this is the side that goes outward toward the front of the car.I first tried to remove the old main seal with a small flathead screwdriver, be careful not to ding or scrape the crank says the FSM. I couldn't really get it out with this small screwdriver. This made me very uncomfortable when I couldn't get it out because I know this is a sensitive area on the engine and I didn't want to damage anything or mess this up. I tried to work the screwdriver around the seal and then tried to pry out the outer edges but only managed to tear it slightly.It started to come apart after I ripped itAfter trying that I got a prybar and in a clockwise motion was able to wedge the main seal out one side at a time...until it popped out.

I took the new seal and oiled it up and inserted it on the crank.The FSM says to use a seal driver or an appropriate tool to install the new seal which I didn't have so I just used the old seal. After getting the new front main seal in place, I positioned the old seal directly on top of it and used a small hammer to pop it into place. These seals are very hard so it was quite solid for the poundometer to do it's thing.Got it in, checked it to see if it was seated correctly and lined up. Good to go.Now is a perfect time to clean this area which is hard to get to with the crank pulley on.I would advise anyone who attempts this to place a piece of metal between your crank pulley bolt and the puller screw to keep this from happening to your crank pulley bolt when you turn the puller screw. It dug into my crank pulley bolt slightly.I put the crank pulley back on. I was worried about mounting the pulley back on...what about the timing marks, how is this pulley going to get back to it's original position? What I hadn't realized was that the crank pulley has a indention on it that matches up with the crank so it only mounts on one way which is how it remains in it's original position so problem solved. I'm going to get a lightweight underdrive pulley so I just barely put the stock pulley back on without torquing it down.

The crank pulley is torqued to 105-112ft.lbs.*I later decided to opt out of getting a lightweight crank pulley.A SEAL PULLER AND SEAL DRIVER KIT IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED FOR REPLACING YOUR SEALS!!! I DIDN'T HAVE ONE WHEN I DID THIS SEAL AND I REGRET IT!

I was very nervous about doing this so if anyone who has done it before sees something that I did wrong then please let me know.
Modified by positronone at 11:33 AM 5/13/2008

Looks good As long as you didn't score the metal around the seal area it should be fine.

The service manual sattes don't score the crank, but really you should be more worried about the surface on the front cover. The crank never touches the oil seal, but the front cover sure does. If you score it up, you run the risk of leaking.

Also, they make seal pullers that are great for pulling oil seals out.

What are you using to clean out the throttle body and intake mani? I've always used carb cleaner, which does wonder for cutting gunk out without having to get brushes and junk up in there. It would also help you clean out the IACV since you have it off. Corey240 did a how to on using Seafoam to clean the IACV, but that was with the motor still in the car. All you would need to do is spray some carb cleaner down into the valves of the IACV to clean out the carbon gunk.

If you can swing it, 3M makes these great little buffing pads that you can attach to an air tool that will clean the gasket surfaces without tearing the metal up. It leaves a really nice finish behind and gets rid of all the old gasket material.

Since you look like you're replacing a ton of your gaskets, go to Courtesy and you can get just about every gasket you need for a fair price. The only one they don't have is the IACV, but FRSport has that one. Also, if you are going to replace the IACV, West Covina Nissan has them for a little cheaper than FRSport. Just look up their eBay store.

awesome thread, makes me wish I had an old dirty SR or RB sitting on my patio to rebuild.. it's so fun, kinda like a puzzle. Keep it coming, you're doing really good. Love the pics. heh.

Looking even better now man! I think I'll have to take out my manifold like you and clean it up.

Hijacker wrote:The service manual sattes don't score the crank, but really you should be more worried about the surface on the front cover. The crank never touches the oil seal, but the front cover sure does. If you score it up, you run the risk of leaking.

Also, they make seal pullers that are great for pulling oil seals out.

What are you using to clean out the throttle body and intake mani? I've always used carb cleaner, which does wonder for cutting gunk out without having to get brushes and junk up in there. It would also help you clean out the IACV since you have it off. Corey240 did a how to on using Seafoam to clean the IACV, but that was with the motor still in the car. All you would need to do is spray some carb cleaner down into the valves of the IACV to clean out the carbon gunk.

If you can swing it, 3M makes these great little buffing pads that you can attach to an air tool that will clean the gasket surfaces without tearing the metal up. It leaves a really nice finish behind and gets rid of all the old gasket material.

Since you look like you're replacing a ton of your gaskets, go to Courtesy and you can get just about every gasket you need for a fair price. The only one they don't have is the IACV, but FRSport has that one. Also, if you are going to replace the IACV, West Covina Nissan has them for a little cheaper than FRSport. Just look up their eBay store.

I didn't have any idea about the seal pullers or I definitely would have gotten one and yes I was extremely worried about scoring up the outer pump cover around the outer edges of the main seal so I ditched the small screwdriver and got the big prybar and went at it from the inside out...much easier and less of a chance of marking up the cover. I used carb cleaner on the the throttle body, intake collector and the IACV. I only used the brush on the intake collector because there was some carbon in a hard to get to spot in there that wouldn't completely come off with just spraying. Good tip on West Covina!

Dirty.Clean! The carb cleaner did wonders on cleaning out the IACV, I think I'm just gonna keep this one.

Lucky you. My extra IACV had the adjuster screw completely destroyed on it. Looks like an ape bottomed the screw out and then kept trying to turn it further -_-

Since this is going on my built motor, I'll just have to bite the bullet and buy a new one with the updated metal screw.

I'd like to replace my IACV, maybe when I get baller enough to buy a GReddy manifold. Good Job dude.

by any chance, do you have a pic of all the poop that came out of your IACV and intake mani/runners? there is a thread where people just spray a can of carb cleaner into the IACV and think its really going to help. I cleaned mine the way you did, but didn't take any pix. its amazing how much crap comes out of those things. Anyways, this is making me antsy to buy another SR to work on. GREAT job so far.

Today I got bored so I swapped out the thermostat.

Tools needed:Socket wrenchSocket extension10mm socketLiquid gasketRazorblade

Water outlet houses the thermostat.Use a 10mm socket to remove the water outlet.After I removed the bolts I had to man-up on the water outlet to bust it loose.

OEM thermostat. Note the position of the jiggle valve.Pull it out.Replacement thermostat.Nismo vs. OEM-if it's anything like the suspension parts then it's a highly overpriced copy of the stock part.I got a razor blade and removed the leftover gasket on the water outlet and the block.Place the replacement thermostat in with the jiggle valve upward.Get some liquid gasket ready and put a 2-3mm bead around the water outlet neck and position it on the block then hand thread the bolts on tight and let it sit for an hour.Come back after an hour and then tighten or torque to 2.7-3.7ft-lbs. I didn't use a torque wrench here on account of possibly busting something...it's only 2 to 3ft-lbs. come on.
Modified by positronone at 11:39 AM 5/13/2008

That motors coming along NICE, hopefully you should have a smooth running motor with not startup problems good work man