*NEW SHELL SEE MIDDLE OF PAGE 3*

DYNO SHEET Page 5

Hope u made out like a bandit on it. usally the older RB20's say RB20 on them and the last versions don't have it on the cam gear cover.

Hmm guess my friend had it the other way around then. Either way engine seems to be running tip top, gotta lot to take care of tomorrow and should be done for awhile. Then I'll pull out the old compression tester.

Lil Update-

Turbo Blew out and cyl 3 tested 93psi =(, Rebuilding a R34 RB25DET-NEO motor that I picked up for cheap. Using my RB20 tranny (gettin new clutch) and lower harness/motor accessories. Gonna toss on some poly steering rack bushings, and hopefully paint the engine bay before I get the motor in. Gotta replace a powersteering hardline too

Been low on cash so the build was on hold didn't matter I suppose cuz the MAIN studs are on backorder for another month from ARP so playing the waiting game. Still need to see if I have a harness for my motor or if I need to order one (being helllla lazy about doing that lol)

Guess thats all to tell for now

sucks to hear about the motor.

yeah I was pretty disappointed but new setup will be sick

Lil Update-

Glad I got 2 of these NEO motors cuz this came out of one of them



But Motors at the shop!







Plans are to do a 3angle Valve Job and Port and Polish on the head and prolly reseat the valves if needed, hot tank the block and possible hone (my cylinder walls look like they were honed yesterday for real lol)

After they have a look at the motor I'll order my ACL Main and Rod Bearings.

I don't plan on running over 400whp should I still consider the Crank Collar Mod???? I really dont think it's in my budget or is needed???

Then have them assemble the shortblock (install head, main, and rod studs, install pistons/rings and crank. PLANNING ON REUSING MY STOCK OIL PUMP considering the oldest it can be is from 98' and the motor has less than 70k I'm sure I see no point in replacing it plus if it goes out I can replace its just more difficult in the car then having the motor out in front of me...am I an idiot for trying to get my car on the road faster????

I'm going to copperspray a new OEM HG and then replace all the seals from the kit I bought.

Still waiting on getting my engine harness and MAF

After I get my motor back I'll be ordering my Spec Stg 3 Clutch (good for 515wtq much more than I plan on seeing)



Then I have to get my rack bushings and fix my PS hardline and I'll be good to go I forsee this taking another 3months tho Work at Round Table and drive this to work every day



13mpg

Slow and Steady but my car will be FAST and RELIABLE

I figure the motor will be very quick out the gate:

9:1 CR (since I wont be running crazy boost or a topmount *yet....* the slight bump in CR will help with power)
Solid Lifters *WIN*
Head work will make it flow amazing (just need upgraded parts for Higher revving and power later on)
Believe stock Pistons are good til 450-600whp (More than I want)
RB26 Rods *600whp right?* (still more than I want)
NEO's Continuous Variable Valve Timing help make TQ/Power smoother and more responsive
OP6 Turbine Housing For Better Flow *Need to Double Check Mine tho)
I have a FMIC like this (mine is a lil smaller tho):


I pray the NEO Turbo is in good condition (checks out fine but cant know til I drive on it)

I plan in running 10psi (actually stock on a NEO) til the clutch and motor are broken in than run .9/1 bar Tho I have read opposing info about if the NEO exhaust turbine is metal and can handle more boost, it does have the nylon inlet wheel. Any Comments about this?

My RB20 with a RB25 Turbo felt fast at .9 bar and I expect this setup to shatter my existence lol it'll be nice and meet my power needs until the rest of the car is done and I eventually find the need for more power

Hopefully I'll have more good news to report back with soon

Tim

I would not reuse your old oil pump. That looks like a bad oiling problem and there will prob be s*** in the pump from that.

LOL!!! Yeah REALLLY bad oiling, I Purchased 2 NEO's knowing 1 never ran from day 1...this was that motor aha, I'm using the oil pump off the good motor, I just used the one with that rod for the head

UPDATE 6/7/2011

Just ordered a Set of Wiseco Pistons 86.5mm (.20 overbore), and ACL Main and Rod Bearings

The CR (compression ratio) of the pistons is listed as 8.0-8.4:1 8.0:1 seems like a little low for daily driving on a mild build, my block already needs to be decked and I believe the head aswell, so this will help bump the CR back up.

I sourced a MAF and Engine Harness incase the guy I bought these motors from doesn't end up having them.

Just really stoked about my build, wish my pistons weren't coming from NY to me in CA...cheapest place I found tho so worth the wait.

Finally ordered my engine Harness today for $275 which I felt was an awesome deal. I also ordered my E61 MAF thru my friend Mason at http://www.aishagarage.com/ for $108 shipped. I felt it was a bit high considering I could find one here at a pick N pull for next to nothing, I seachead around with no luck so paying the extra for shipping was worth it to have it sooner, plus I wanted to support a friend.

Hopefully next week I can get my harness in the meantime I'll be looking up how t repin the interior plug to match my s14 should be easy enough.

After I make sure I have every sensor matched to the harness I'll wire up my rb20 o2 sensor to match and can finallly get my motor in.

Pretty Stoked about the car I plan to take alot of pictures of everything since I cant ever find pics online.

I'll look into it more if a problem arises but I'm considering doing LS2 coils but am not sure how/if it differs with the NEO/Series 2 coilpacks.

Motors all complete just need a fe vaccum lines run and ste up the intake piping once its installed will have alot of pics next update

Also coppersprayed all exhaust related gaskets for the motor and painted thje exhaust manifold sheild with hi-temp BBQ paint lol

Lil Update-

I attempted the wiring for the F3 plug and to start my car, didn't work and while attempting to solve the wiring issue I fried my ECU

I bought a replacement ECU from http://www.rawbrokerage.com/ they always have great customer service

I dropped my harness and ECU of at a semi-local shop (about an hour and a half away) http://www.daftinnovations.com/

Harness should be ready this weekend/monday.

I wasn't seeing any oil after cranking the motor over (out of the turbo oil return tube) so I'm going to pull all my spark plugs to make it turn easier and hook a battery charger on my battery and crank it for awhile (30second intervals dont wanna burn the starter out) once I get the ecu and harness back in the car.

I kinda wish I had just spent the $200 on a new Oil Pump when I had the bottom end put together at my machine shop. Scared to start it if I never see oil just from cranking...

Only other issues I foresee are my injectors may be stuck closed, pretty sure I'll have to take apart the intake manifold to pull them not really interested in having to make gaskets for it , also worse case scenario my coilpack's could be faulty. If so I'm going to post up looking for Spitfires or some other aftermarkets from someone who has done a GM COIL conversion.

Oh after hooking up my slave cylinder my clutch doesn't feel very stiff, I went from what looks like a stock clutch to a Spec Stg 3 I'm not sure if I need to adjust the pedal at all or try bleeding the master but there's hardly any pressure. I put my new flywheel and clutch back on exactly how my old one came off so I don't imagine I could have messed anything up internally.

Hope to have more updates this coming week after I get my harness back. Been loving all the build threads on here you all have such large budgets for your builds I'm so jealous

I dont think I'll ever make the RBBA, I'm just trying to get out of the NRRBA sucks on this side of the forum lol

Few Pics-

It's not about the budget it's about having fun with your car. I haven't gotten to that part yet either .

My car will be perfect to daily and plenty responsive, gonna be great at the track aswell. Definitely am dying to have fun again been so long. I don't know 1 NEO motor anywhere near me so I'm pretty excited to have something different. Plus my motor has alot of benefits.

Any updates?. Like to see how it turned out

Rich @ DAFT INNOVATIONS has had my harness and ECU (for testing purposes) since November 5th, I gave him a break since Thanksgiving prolly slowed him down. He told me 1 week when I had dropped it off I said no worries as I wouldn't have the funds to "SMOG" my car or insure my car for another month. He messaged me 8 days ago asking if I could come get it the next day I had work and asked to pick it up that night or the following 2 days when I had plenty of time to come pick it up I live about an hour from his shop in Modesto. I received no reply and he messaged like 5 days later asking for my address to ship my items to me as he was out of town wiring a car. I gave him my info and explained I had other days to pick it up and got no response. I still have not received my parts or a message. I have read some TERRIBLE customer service issues from him and LONG delays but apparently he always will get you your stuff since its basically a one man show and he get some help from his business partner IDK I'm just irritated I want to know if it: A) Runs B) Injectors/Coilpacks/Spark Plugs are bad C) if my clutch is working or not/needs to be bled/parts replaced.

Purchasing 5lug S14 SE wheels and 5lug swap for $300 tomorrow, have coilovers lined up to borrow, some staggered 18" & 19" ADR Wheels to buy soon.

LOTS of PICS VIDS and Updates to come WHENEVER I get my parts back and see whats good. I'll be getting Yellow Jacket Coilpacks new, or used splitfires off of one of you possibly if mine are bad. I have a friend doing Nistune on a Series 1 RB25 with a topmount soon so I'm going to buy the NEO6 board for $460 and use his license and software to tune mine once it's broken in and running tip top OEM

Rich at Daft texted me this morning asking if I had my harness. "Apparently" it was shipped out almost 2 weeks ago. I doubt FedEx would take this long to get me a package regardless of Christmas. He mentioned they are closed today (day after Christmas) so I'm guessing he's going to ship it to me tomorrow and just made up him shipping it before

Good news is he told me he actually removed the excess wiring from my harness and that I had a few wires hooked up wrong. So if I ever receive my parts from him it seems I should have better luck in starting it.

Still need to crank the motor over more to see if I ever get any oil out of the turbo return line. I should update in a few days after I: Modify and install my screamer pipe, hook power to the starter/crank the engine with an air gun til I see oil, and hopefully have received my harness and ECU.

Make sure u get a video when its up and running.. i want to hear it the that screamer pipe. So did the guy test ur cas n ecu also?..

he didn't have my car (thank god!) so no CAS tested I actually asked him if he was able to power the ecu and see if it was working properly but I got no reply. I 've read I can just turn the CAS outside the motor and it will open the injectors. I will take ALOT of pics and vids, there's not enough NEO vids online. I'm excited about the screamer pipe a few of my friends disapprove I figure worst case scenario I can have it routed back into the exhaust...I kinda want to run it outside behind the front tire

Apparently Rich's coworker shipped my harness and ECU to a non existent address and his neighboring shop accepted the return package because he was not there.

Here's the harness (wish it looked prettier)


What he removed (I'm glad he actually removed all the crap)


Going to pick it up in the AM. Sadly I have family plans and wont be able to work on the car til around 10pm or 11. I work at 4 on Saturday so hopefully Sat morning I can try and get this dam thing running. Since the harness isn't all taped up I'll try posting a NEO wiring diagram.

Updates Soon!

Car Runs trying to setup an oil pressure gauge tomorrow and get an upper radiator hose so I can let it idle only ran for 2sec.

Prolly gonna bleed my clutch and see if the pedal feels right then hopefully vids

Tim

Update-

-Clutch is fine guess it just isn't very stiff
-5 Lug on the front until I get a day off to get the rears done
-J30 Brakes w/ New Rotors and Hawk Pads
-Power Steering line replaced and it works just fine
-Wiring Harness wrapped up and tucked pretty nice, need more work
-Screamer Pipe is on the car. Some exhaust comes out of the dump tube so I need to space out the divorce price but I don't want to bother with it yet. My exhaust system fits horrible need to have my friend fix it at his shop.
-About to "Smog" my car, get insurance and pay for my tags next week.

I got a ticket in it while breaking in the rings on my 3rd time driving it. It was for no insurance or registration so my tax return will be going to that instead of coils

I have pics to upload when I'm on a computer and can load them. I'll post vids once I have it broken in

-Tim

Looking good man

Lifes been CRAZY lately but still been working on the car.

CAR IS ON THE ROAD!
5 Lug is completed
Got AGX's w/lowering springs up front to replace the stock blown shocks car is raked but looks/feels good
Need New front speakers and to install my sub/amp
Need a new Tranny Mount

I have been running into issues with the RB25 5000rpm "CUT" I put a t-shirt over my air filter to restrict the flow and I was able to rev past 5k. I don't get alot of time to drive the car or get on it excessively in a safe setting. Motor has nearly 400miles.

I still have issues I believe my CAS is bad. If it idles at 900rpms the timing reads before the 1st crank pulley mark. The second I turn it the idle jumps to 1500rpms and the timing reads at 35degrees...I have a pretty unconsistent idle 1800,1500,1100,900.

I'm saving money for NISTUNE I know someone who can get me everything and tune it for me at a good price. I hope I can tune past my faulty IACV and this stupid ECU"S maps.

Oh I logged my MPG around 13...last tank was 11.8 :/ Turbo's always spooling up, not sure if gas issue is my right foot or something else, but it definitely does not seem to run rich, NO backfires, no smoke. I only smell fumes from my screamer leaking some exhaust.

I'll try to load some pics tonight when I'm home

Tim

I routed my MAF and O2 sensor wires in the car out thru here


The IACV that when plugged in makes my car idle at 2200rpm...


I removed the Traction control peice that went here and the TPS "like" sensor that was to the left of it.

UPDATE:

Installed a set of Alpine Type S 6.5's in the car
Installed my sub and amp
Sub frame collars installed
Thicker front sway bar installed (rear soon to be had)
SE's put on rear to match the front
Put on rear coils I purchased from a friend so I could balance the height of the car with the lowering springs up front also so I can drift it easier/better.

I talked to my tuner and my Nistune board+install+dyno tune will be $450-500 No more 5000rpm cut I'm really excited. Just tuning for 10psi maybe 11 wanna get as close to 300whp as possible. I think it will happen, unless my Wiseco pistons lowered the CR too much for this turbo and that low of boost.

I need to get a new battery and a RB25 alternator or mount a one wire alt on the car...I'd rather run stock tho for ease. I have a RB20 alt and a crappy battery can't be good for my electrical system, especially now that I have a sub.

Pics up tomorrow of how it sits

Tim

Oh vids after tune, screamer does sound pretty good tho

U could always do the quest alternator swap, there a writeup on it n its more power for ur car,amp,subs or anything u could throw at it...
Btw I want to here that screamer pipe...

I assume when you state its cutting out at 5krpm that you are referencing the stock tach.
stock tach without recalibration reads 1.5x high...
so 5000/1.5 = 3333.33.
you, my friend, have a maf issue not a tune issue.
craptastic mpg also points to that, a properly wired/running neo should net mid to high 20's for mileage highway and low 20's city.

Mixed- I know about the Quest Alt writeup...I'm just lazy lol Yes vids of screamer will be up. Sorry no pics either didn;t have a camera available.

Carl H- I adjusted my Tach I turned the dial on the back and I matched it with and external tach it reads quite well. It can go past 5k...CARL c'mon google rb25 5k cut...hella threads out there it's a common issue that I SOMEHOW never read about prior to my issue. I'd be pissed if it was my MAF haha. Could a bad CAS cause such horrible MPG? my car runs SO well tho it just confuses me. I figure with the NISTUNE I can help pinpoint other issues I may have, My tuner will know for sure if my MAF is bad. Maybe I need to try another o2 sensor...but it was fine on my RB20 prior.

Car has been keeping the 1100 and generally 900rpm idle past couple days

I know you'll say this is immediately my issue but my MAF wires are not soldered...Rich at Daft is a TOOL!!!!!

Maybe I'll clean my MAF tomorrow even tho I think I already did when I got it.

One more thing the NEO has continuous valve timing, seems like it basically is designed to advance my timing all the time to run leaner AKA better fuel economy. So with my intercooler and cone filter it pulls air even faster and I assume runs a little lean especially since I have a rb20 10lb actuator and am not running the 2 stage boost it normally has stock. So I pull even more air sooner than it normally would. The cut is the ECU retarding the hell outta my timing and richens my fuel MAP based on the MAF voltage signal reaching a limit high enough to scare the ECU.

That sound accurate?

Tim

*EDIT*- This is from the thread I read

bmadd2402 wrote:First things first, makesure that hole isnt a boost leak, then check for more boost leaks. then check your ciols for cracks/torn boots. then check your ignitor and coils with a multimeter per the FSM. put the stock ecu back on for troubleshooting purposes. check your MAF voltage, and TPS voltage, check coolant temp sensor, and timing. Did you replace the timing belt? if so, double check the mech timing. then set timing and idle per the fsm. if all that checks out, then it may be rich and retarded. the ecu sees too much air coming (some call this maxing the MAF) into the system, and pulls timing and dumps fuel in to keep the motor from blowing up. Esp with a FMIC, intake and exhaust, and increased boost. This is where the emanae comes in. get it tuned. you will be pleasantly urprised. I struggled with this problem for a long time before I finally broke down and bought an aftermarket ecu and like magic, the problem went away. Get on SAU and search for R & R, or rich and retard.

What colour maf label/last 3 digits are on the maf?

you can have a bad CAS that still reads, i did for quite a few years but when I checked it it always was correct...go figure.
shoot base timing, should be 15* or the cas holes centered up...

if daft did the harness correctly then your consult should work, i'd see if someone has a consult cable or the nissan dealer/local indie shop can run diagnostics for you.