My 72' 240z

[Zkid1994]

the set has different lengths. this is both the exhaust and intake manifolds. the kit i bought to replace the studs has about 15 shorter studs and about 8 longer studs. the stud length only differs by about a quarter of an inch.

[evildky]

the exhaust and betweent he intake an exhaust use studs, the top of the intake uses bolts

[Zkid1994]

are you sure? this is a stock L24. i don't remember pulling off any bolts.. i'll check again.

[Zkid1994]

Got it evil, it is bolts, sorry for the confusion!

[Zkid1994]

ok, one more question. can anyone tell me the torque settings for the manifolds please?

[evildky]

if you haven't already bought or dl'd the fsm I hihgly recomend you do so, it'll have all the torque spec's, the manifold bolts are 25-35 ft lbs IIRC, most anything bolting into aluminum won't be any higher than that

[Zkid1994]

FSM... I am not familiar with this phrase... ______ service manual? i have the blue Datsun 240Z Autobook, but i can't seem to find the values. When it gets to reassembly of the manifolds, it just says, and i quote, " Install the exhaust manifold, followed by the inlet manifold with carburetters and heat shield plate."
but otherwise thank you very much evil, much appreciated.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

F*&%ing Service Manual... or more commonly, Factory Service Manual. Might be hard to come by.

[Zkid1994]

well i found it, but it doesn't say the torque, it just says install again. i'm going to check my hayes book.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

well i found it, but it doesn't say the torque, it just says install again. i'm going to check my hayes book.

The factory service manual will definitely have the torque. What size are the bolts? You can get basic torque guidelines based on the bolt size online.

[Zkid1994]

ok one more problem. found the torque and set everything to torque and put everything back on the block. i primed the lines, attached the batery and tried to get it to start on up. Nothing. i think it's a problem with gas getting to the intake but i'm definitely not sure. any tips would be greatly appreciated.
thanks again guys

[Zkid1994]

ok one more problem. found the torque and set everything to torque and put everything back on the block. i primed the lines, attached the batery and tried to get it to start on up. Nothing. i think it's a problem with gas getting to the intake but i'm definitely not sure. any tips would be greatly appreciated.
thanks again guys

[Zkid1994]

http://s771.photobucket.com/albums/xx360/that_guy_1994/
there's a few pictures of after paint

[evildky]

"primed the lines"? it can take a long time for the mechanical fuel pump to get fuel up to the carbs and fill the float bowls, a little starter fluid should get it to run long enough to fill everything up

I don't knwo what all you did to the engine carbs etc but if you had the fuel pump off the head, did you get the lever back on the lobe as it should be? are the carb pistons moving freely? sometimes they can stick after sitting a while, are the choke cables hooked up and working? voltage to the coil? distributor been out? points gapped?

[Zkid1994]

"primed the lines"= i meant i put gas in the filter so it didn't have to pull all the way from the tank. the pump was never off the head, and the carb pistons are moving, but with they seem slow to me. maybe too much ATF? choke is functional, the electrical is where i get lost. i'm not sure the voltage to the coil, i don't know what you mean by "distributer been out?" or "points gapped?"
thanks evil!

[evildky]

putting fuel in the filter won't do much if there is air in the lines, it takes a while to pump fuel through the lines

as for the carbs, the atf viscosity might slow the pistons too much especially if it's cold, the level shouldn't be an issue as if overfilled it will run into the intake

have you messed with the carb jet screw at all? have you had the floats out? sometimes the drain hole at the bottom of the float bowl or the fuel line itsef that leads from the bowl to the jet will get clogged, you can try fillinf the float bowl with fuel through their vent holes and see if it fires

I was asking if the distributor has been removed, as in no longer clocked properly meaning incorrect ignition timing, as for the point, if you have the stock distributor then you still have points and they need adjusting fomr time to time

the wiring ont he strock 240 is pretty simple, you should have constat 12+ to the + side fo the soil when cranking and the - side should hook to the single wire coming out fo the distributor and the tach wire also hooks to the -side, there is a ballast in there that serves to drop the voltage

[Zkid1994]

i don't think i have messed with the jet screw, but i'm not entirely sure what that is or where it is. the floats have not been out, but concerning clogged drain holes or jet hoses, i'll check. distributor has not been removed, nor messed with.

[evildky]

the jet is on the bottom of the carb where the fuel line leads over form the float bowl, I'd suggest you pull the fuel hose off the jet and see if fuel comes out, if no fuel comes otu then the line is clogged or the fuel bowl is empty, you can take the float out of the bowl by removing the 4 screws on top and lifting it off, if there si fuel in the boel the hole or hose si clogged, if there si no fuel in the boel then you simply are nto getting fuel to the bowls for whatever reason

was the car running before you "fixed" it ?

[Zkid1994]

haha I wouldn't say "fixed" yet, maybe... tinkered? yes it was running before i messed with it, but the broken bolts created a huge leak that had to be dealt with. I should be checking the jet tonight, thanks for all your help

[Zkid1994]

she still isn't running... i don't know what i'm doing wrong, but i'm going to clean the carbs again.

[evildky]

is there fuel int he fuel bowls? will it flow out the fuel hose that hooks to the jets?

[Zkid1994]

I GOT HER!!
I cleaned the carbs and filled them with fresh gas. once the carb cleaner was gone, she ran well. one question though. in neutral there was a large lag when the throttle was applied, also in high idle it seemed to run in waves, running high then almost dying over and over. What might i change to fix both of these things?

[evildky]

this is where the black art of carb tuning comes into play

the lag could be any number of issues, ignition timing? plugs, wires, rotor button, cap, points, oil viscosity in the carbs, impropperly adjusted float, unballanced carbs, maladjusted jets etc

the surge is likely the antistall dashpot, most of us remove these

[Zkid1994]

ok, i think i found the issue, i think it might have been the fact that the float bowls were filled with nasty gas for so long, and the new gas started to dissolve the deposits of crap. now i have reached another block, i cannot get the tail lights to work properly, nor the front right marker/ turn light. are there any common problems with the electrical system that would hinder their functionality?
thanks again.

[evildky]

what abut the tails isn't working? the stop funcion? this would likely be stop light switch on the pedal

no turn indicators? could be the signal swithc or the resistor

illuminatin? this would also be a switch issue (the switch is a common issue) these cars were wired backwards of how we generally do it these days, everything is on a switched ht so contacts and connections can all conspire to reduce voltage or even block power to circuits, also the light sockets cat get corroded to the point of failure or even the wire leads just behind the socket. and the connection of the main harness to the light subharnesses up front are kinda exposed and sunject to corrosion or damage

[Zkid1994]

for the tail lights, on the left light cluster, the top left light isn't going at all, and i think it's because of corrosion. I bought a new socket, but it is NOT nissan made, but it looked to be about the same size and the same number of contacts. for the front right marker light, the air dam's lights are working so i don't think its a problem with the switch, but i might be mistaken. i also have a headlight that is REALLY dim, any advice there?
thanks!

[evildky]

the dim headlights are a common result of the worn corroded or dirty contacts due to the reversed wiring, you can take every connection apart form the switch to the headlights and the switch itself and clean them but might not see much improvement, many people rewire to headlights to a relay, using the stock signal to trip the relay and the battery to provide power greatly improved the brightness, also modern bulbs tend to be brighter than the old ones

[Zkid1994]

were the halogens stock in Z's? thats what i have. also i figured out the lag and the back firing, my dumb self forgot to put damper fluid in the carbs

[evildky]

they came with sealed beams, I forget the brand but composites are an upgrade

[Zkid1994]

ok... i'm back. Can someone tell mt the name of the hose that runs from the back right side of the gas tank, up through the body and toward the right? its hard to explain, but if you open the hatch, there is a tube that runs up through the "floor" and to the right.