Post by
BaliLover »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/balilover-u6785.html
Sat Dec 11, 2004 10:25 pm
I just installed a set of Megan Racing coilovers and I figured since it was a fairly new product, I'd get it a review so everyone could get an idea about them.
First off, these things are beautiful. The craftsmanship looks to be top notch, everything is nicely finished, the welds on the shock mount look great, and the locking spindles have nice hard square notches so you get a good positive lock with the adjusting wrenches. They supposedly have 32 levels of dampening adjustment and you can feel an noticible click when you turn the adjusting knob. The adjusting knob is nice, its doesn't look like it can be removed so losing it won't be a problem, and it can be turned by hand so no tools are needed and theres no allen heads/torx heads/whatever to strip/round out. The allen heads on the camber plate are deep enough so you get a good positive fit with the allen key provided with the coilovers. The kit came with adjusting wrenches, an allen wrench, the coilovers, dissasembly instructions/parts list, and NEW HARDWARE for up top. They included 6 new nuts for the front, and 4 for the rear. The rears come in handy because I dropped 2 of the factory nuts behind an interior panel when I removed the old struts.
Install was a breeze, 3 nuts and 2 bolts for the fronts, and 3 nuts for the rears, in and out in 45 minutes or less with air tools and some basic mechanical ability. Just be sure that everything is tight, don't forget to tighten the bolts on the camber plate before you set the car down, they're just slightly loose from the factory and if you lower the car, it'll camber way in and you'll have to jack the car back up to reset and tighten them. Don't ask how I know.
I decided to leave mine at whatever the factory had them set at for the install, and adjust them later. The spring and height perches were set the same for both fronts, and the rears were also set at matching heights so I locked the rings down tight and put them in. The factory settings put the car at the perfect height for me, with no wheel well gap in the rear but no tuck, and maybe 1.5" in the front. *(important side note: if going from stock height to these, make sure to put some boards under your tires before you lower the car back to the ground. I ended up pinning my jack under the car and it was in an area where I couldn't jack it back up, had to drive the car onto boards dragging the jack along until it was high enough to remove.)*
Now, the one thing I found, was that there was almost NO tire ->spring perch clearance in the front with my wheels but didn't rub. I'm using a Borbet Type-S in 17x7.5 +35 with a Falken Ziex in 215/45/17 and I couldn't fit a finger between the tire and perch, and these tires have a very sloped sidewall. I'd imagine a square sidewalled tire would rub pretty bad if you could even manage to get it on there with a similar sized wheel.
With the coils installed and the camber plates set at 0, there was a lot more negaive camber than I would ever want to drive on.
My solution, to solve both the tire -> spring perch clearance issue, and the negative camber at the same time, was to slot the upper mount hole, where the coilover bolts to the spindle, in the coilovers about a 1/2" with a die grinder and some patience. I'm pretty sure I've seen other coilovers that came with the top hole already slotted, and this allows you to pull the top of the wheel away from the coilover while adding some positive camber. I pulled the spindle out until the rotors were pefectly level using a bubble level on a T-square, then locked everything down. This seems to have made the setup perfect. When my camber plate is on 0, I want there to be 0 camber and thats the way it seems with a simple bubble level (I will be taking it to an alignment shop and having them set the spindle to 0 degrees perfectly, then adjusting everything with the camber plates) I now have enough clearance between the coilovers and tires to fit a finger so I feel a bit safer.
They were pretty bouncy on the softest setting for about 2 days, but now they have started to feel smoother. The car handles a TON better, much more solid and controlled on the road, and it definately helps keep it under control when taking a corner at high speeds or just taking it agressively.
For just a little more than the price of getting performance struts, lowering springs, and replacing all the bushings in the strut assembly, plus the extra labor of disassembling the old strut, you can have a nice set of coils that handle good and won't bounce you all over the road, and with a little work with a die grinder/dremmel they seem like they'd fit almost any wheel.
If this review were going to be read by Megan, and my input was desired, I'd tell them they seem to have a great product, but that I'd either move the upper strut mount hole out a 1/2" or slot the hole so it could be adjusted based on wheel offset and so that 0 degrees on the camber plate was actually 0 degrees. That is really the only thing that I would change. They look to be well built, they bolt in perfectly, they handle nicely and make a huge difference, and for the price I don't know that you can beat them.
If anyone has any questions, let me know and I'll try to respond the best that I can.