I installed a new engine ~12 months ago. I didn't do anything to it out of the junkyard, dropped it right in - original KS's, original MAP/BARO sensors...

So I have this code and can't pass inspections. Very annoying.

I've scraped google and found people this this sensor is reachable without pulling plenum? This seems crazy to me...I know my way around a vh41, and I don't see how this could be done.

I'm trying to avoid the plenum pull for a few months, at least.

The FSM really only provides for diagnoses (outside of CONSULT) that involve magical hands and fingers that can reach and test the sensor/connector.

Has anyone ever resolved this code without pulling the plenum?

Hey Jack!

As you remember You helped me change my knock sensors... After changing them about a month later i developed this issue too. It's been driving me crazy because the check engine light wont go off, but there is no way in hell im doing that myself again.

Its right above the KSs and I can't begin to thing how you can remotely change it without pullin the plenum. Either way good luck! And please update if you solve it.

Hi Mopar!

yeah, of course I remember you! The thing I don't understand is that the FSM clearly dictates all these testing procedures to do with the car warm/cold, if you don't have a consult.

There is no way to run that car when the map/baro sensor is in your hands - by definition, the upper plenum is off, fuel lines are disconnected, crazy! Really not sure how this is all supposed to pan out.

I'd just order another one, along with some KS's and do the whole job again, buuuuut I want to be sure the issue isn't on the other side of the lines that come out of it.

These are my codes:

p1105
p1105 pd MAP/BAR SW SOL/CIR PAGE EC 358
p1492pd PURG CONT/V S/V PAGE EC 481
p1400pd EGRC SOLENOID/V PAGE EC 412
p1145pd INTK TIM S/CIRC-B2 PAGE EC-382

They are all vacuum-related items. Seems too suspicious. Does anyone know of any vacuum lines on our cars that are one-way? Like the brake booster line, but smaller standard vacuum size? Maybe I have one switched around from the motor swap.

Hopefully someone like q45tech can chime in, this seems like one of those "if you've checked Q codes a million times, you can read between the lines" issues.

Car seems to be running OK, just not that great on fuel.

is that your only code Mopar?

I have that code along with a bad oxygen sensor code which i am trying to replace...

Oh by the way, I remember reading somewhere on the forums that bad map sensor would cause pressure buildup in the gas tank. And when you open the gas tank to fill up you hear a whooshing sound which sounds exactly like pressure going out. My car does this also. Have you noticed it on your car? It is more audable when you fill up a full tank and let it run to empty.

Nope.

That code is for the solenoid, not the MAP or BARO sensor. Find the harness pins for it at the ECU or elsewhere. Apply Battery voltage. If the solenoid clicks, reverse the vacuum lines on the solenoid. If not, make sure it is plugged in, and if it is, its likely a bad solenoid.

My car always make that whooshing sound when I open the gas cap. I do have a code P1400 now. I don't know if it relate to that or not.

Mopar wrote:I have that code along with a bad oxygen sensor code which i am trying to replace...

Oh by the way, I remember reading somewhere on the forums that bad map sensor would cause pressure buildup in the gas tank. And when you open the gas tank to fill up you hear a whooshing sound which sounds exactly like pressure going out. My car does this also. Have you noticed it on your car? It is more audable when you fill up a full tank and let it run to empty.

No, it just tells you your vapor tank system is intact and working as designed.

Lokim wrote:That code is for the solenoid, not the MAP or BARO sensor. Find the harness pins for it at the ECU or elsewhere. Apply Battery voltage. If the solenoid clicks, reverse the vacuum lines on the solenoid. If not, make sure it is plugged in, and if it is, its likely a bad solenoid.

Thanks for the battery voltage input. As for the code, you're right, it's not a sensor, it's a solenoid that dictates whether vacuum is given to the MAP sensor or not.

Here's the thing, this code came after an engine swap so I am suspect to a mistake of mine during installation.

Today I remembered a ground on one of the sides of the block had ground to dust, and was gone.

THEN, I decided to pull codes again. Well, it's been a few hundred miles since I first posted this (and had cleared the ECM), I have a few more codes....

a total of 12 codes, WOW. Quite a bit for a car that feels to be running at 95%.

So......I think I'll have a look at that ground, and see if I can tap out the rusted screw and reground it. I now have o2 sensor codes and even all of these:

p1490
p1110
p1492
p0135
p0446
p0155
p1400
p1105
p1145
p1490 PD
p1110 PD
p1492 PD

I'm starting to think this ground was critical to the harness and I have a ton of error codes as a result. Do you guys think this sounds reasonable? I had some of these codes before the swap, when the ground was so frail it had all but crumbled to dust. When I touched it, it disintegrated. This might explain all of it.

About 3 months ago, I did the heads on a Lexus SUV (the little one.) Got it all back together, and it ran perfect, fired up on the first try. Took it for a drive, and it shifted like s***. Poked around a bit and found I missed reconnecting a, 18ga wire ground at the back of the plenum.

Moral of the story: If they could have saved a nickel and omitted that ground point, they would have. Find a way to ground that wire, and do it before you burn up something expensive!

I sucked it up. For the first time since the age of 16 except tires and trannies, I'm going to bring my car to Infiniti of Hanover and pay them $110/hour to diagnose these gremlins. I'm really at a loss and after spending nearly 1.8k on the engine and all other parts, I just want this done. Bahhhh $200-$400 for NOTHING but info...going next Wednesday at 11am, so maybe I'll try to tinker with it this week and see what I can do. Damn.

I guess NJ is too far?

yessir....

Update, I couldn't do it. I just can't pay an Infiniti tech $110/hour to diagnose my codes for me.

I put it off for a week, and am going to give it another shot myself.

Pnoidj, how did you fix this code?

He had these hoses switched around... that's what commonly causes it after a plenum re-assembly...

Wiggler wrote:He had these hoses switched around... that's what commonly causes it after a plenum re-assembly...

I hear you and thanks for answering but I never touched my engine. I just picked up another map/boost sensor from a 2000 ae 90k mi parts car. I will post back when I switch them.

No, I don't think I did...the simplest thing got me.

Sometimes when we work on our own cars, we are ready for war anytime...dropping motors...pulling harnesses....pulling plenums...

Infiniti of Hanover after 10 days of keeping my car (and a free loaner '13 g37, SWEET), found a bad fuse.

At least it took them 10 days

Headslap.

Ok thanks. Ill start looking for bad fuses. Do you happen to know which was the bad one? Its just that im away so im trying to get as much info as I can so when I get back I can eliminate all possibilities with this issue.

Do you have the location of this fuse?

I'm sorry, but the dealership never told me which.

I'd start checking under the steering wheel in the fusebox there. Checking for continuity with a multimeter is 10000x easier than pulling each fuse.

Hey guys

I been suffering from this nasty code 1105, nothing seems to be working,

I appears there is a short some where, because as soon as I clear the code restart the car, run diagnostics 1105 appears right away but engine check light comes on after driving and restarting the engine,
So basically 2 code 0305 and 1105 not going away, the actually solenoid is fine I tested with external 12v and its clicking also
I can feel vacuum when its plugged in, I need to pass inspection and also very poor gas millage.
I can explain more if any one has any question,

Thanks