LS2 Truck coil swap

[Sil240]

OOK so I've been having problems with No Tach signal and hesitation. I figured it could be my coils or ignitor.

Following Whatadsm's thread and 240z's and researching on some Chevy forums I've found some good info. I also posted some of this info in the threads mentioned above.

I picked up some brand new aftermarket coils off eBay. $249 for a set of 8 coilsThen checked out a local Chevy spot by my house http://WWW.nookandtranny.com for the wire harnesses. $30 each 4 leads per harness FL is really ghey since they don't have any cars younger than 10 years old in the junkyard.

Used the same Molex connectors as whatadsm, from Radio Shack.

Then for the mounting bracket I had to make something very different than the other two guys. I tried to mimic 240z and this Audi 5 cylinder Guy.

Went to home depot got 2 long piece of 1" square tubing, 2 - 12" 1/4-20 threaded rod. Also a whole bunch of stainless nuts and plastic spacers.

I have pics and part #s I'll put up later.

Here are some:

















Modified by Sil240 at 1:56 PM 2/17/2010
Modified by Sil240 at 7:46 PM 2/22/2010

[WhatsADSM]

Keep us posted. The LS2 truck coils are a very nice coils... they even have an integrated heat sink on them!

[Sil240]

Can you see the pics??I'm doing this all from my phone.

[rsxse240]

Very nice! I can't get over how big that set up is though.

[Sil240]

Yeah they are pretty big, but they do put out big power 140ma!!!!!The Vette LS2 coils put out 40maThe LS1 coils put out less, but I never looked to see how much.

Pics:

1 of 2 Harnesses



Connectors

[WhatsADSM]

Yeah they are pretty big, but they do put out big power 140ma!!!!!The Vette LS2 coils put out 40maThe LS1 coils put out less, but I never looked to see how much.

Pics:

1 of 2 Harnesses



Connectors

IIRC the LS1 coils only have 40mA (which is still decent considering it is a single coil). The LS2 vett coils are considerably more potent than the LS1 vett coils, and I think the LS2 truck are a little more than the LS2 vett.

Basic premise, any LS2 based coil has considerably more spark energy than LS1 based.

[Sil240]

Yeah your right the LS1 are 40ma

Ok, so I suck at wiring stuff.But trying to follow whatadsm and other info found on the net.I''ve spent a couple hours Sunday depinning the stock LS2 wire harness and making my own.

Using the LS harnes each connector has 4 wires.3 of the are common to each other and the 4th is not.

Pink = (+) 12V - (Best performance setup a ignition switched and fused relay and run the +12V through your relay to the coils.)Uncommon wire (Purple, Blue, Green, Red) = ECU coil trigger wire. (Wires going *into* the stock ignitor (not the output of the ignitor which is used on other setups like the buick retrofit). The stock ignitor,coils, and wiring is no longer needed.) Brown = Signal Ground - (Chassis Ground)Black = Coil Ground - (Wired directly to the (-) Batt terminal for best perfomance.)



Didn't finish, but here's what I have so far.Yes, it is not the prettiest thing ever.



In the car, I've taken out the Ignitor, coil packs and the harness.All thats left is the 6 Pin plug that goes INTO the ignitor, and the 3 pin plug.From what i've gathered, the 6 Pin connector is the Ecu Trigger signal to the coils/ignitor. The other 3 pin connector is the Timing Loop (Black??), Power (larger white goes to Dash relay) and Ground (Black/Red). (Taken from KLH6866's GM waste spark thread & Kansei240sx)

I'll post up pics and wire colors, when I figure them out.Since that swap retains the ignitor. And those plugs are AFTER the ignitor.Because according to the pic posted by Darius in Whatadsm's thread.The wire colors are different on the RB20.

[240z4u]

Another happy customer. This is a great mod.

Re-check your ignition timing when your done.

[WhatsADSM]

Wow you are really thorough. Yup sounds like you are understanding the wiring correctly. Ideally you are correct the Pink +12v should be from a fused relay switched. (In fact I used the power from the original harness which you indicated is the white wire from the 3 pin plug to switch the relay. This way the coils receive power when it was originally desired).

[Sil240]

Thanks!!

I'm trying to make it easy for the next guy doing the swap.Plus it also helps me remember. I have a crappy memory. lol

Yeah your right.That white wire does come from the relay, and it should be fused too.I'm gonna hook mine up just like that, to make it easier.The only thing I might do at a later time is get a larger gauge power wire to feed the coils.

Ok, So last night I didn't do anything but take some pics:

Here is the 6 pin connector that goes into the ignitor.These wire colors are def different than the ones on the RB25 pic Darius posted up.

Now I just gotta break out the FSM and figure out which wire color goes to which corresponding Cylinder.If anyone knows which wire colors go to which Cyl, LMK!!!!!!!!



Here is the 3 pin connector.My phone would not focus at all on the wires.I took about 15 pics trying to get it to focus. (Damn you Droid!!!)

The wire on the Left is the Black/Red - Ground.The wire in the Middle is the White - + 12V Power from the green relay under the dash.The wire to the right is the Black with Silver dots - Timing loop (This wont be needed any more since you will now have spark plug wires)



I Forgot to mention earlier that the part # for the Spark Plug wires, you will not be able to get. They've been Discontinued.These are Spark Plug wires from a 05-07 Ford F150 V6.But........ What I'm using it HALF of TWO sets, I grabbed the Shortest 3 wires.These wires are 8mm wires, you don't really need to cut them or change anything on the connectors. Everything plugs right in.

For the Brackets I got some 1" wide aluminum flat stock from the Ho-depot.Grabbed my welding clamps and pretty much bent them into sorta Z shapes. I didn't do such a great job, they do need mending.The #1 Plug wire on the coil hits the hood and the #2 or 3 coil connector is almost in the way of the Fuel Rail mounting point.

Not a huge deal though, I'll fix it later...... Hopefully :-)
Modified by Sil240 at 5:32 PM 2/23/2010

[l0nestar]

Looking good man!

[Sil240]

OK so I finally finished the swap.I haven't tested it as yet, cause it was getting late and I needed to put the AFPR in.

I also gotta adjust the bracket too. So here's the rest of the info you'll need to do this.



Wires that go into the Ignitor, in the firing order:

1) Blue/Orange2) Blue/Black3) Blue/Red4) Blue/Yellow5) Blue/Silver dots6) Blue/white



Hopefully tomorrow the car starts right up.And.... hopefully this fixes my stutter/hesitation and Tach signal problem.

[l0nestar]

Sweet!

[Sil240]

Ok, well today I installed my AFPR and started up the car.She started RIGHT up.Sounded clearer than ever.No hesitation.

I went and took her for a spin and she runs really good.Did my first burnout in her, well.... with this motor.

For some reason I couldn't embed the video.But check it out here.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4kVCCkpj1k

I won't need you guys anymore!!



Since I'm using a Old school HKS Bypass valve and it opens up under vacuum.I was having a problem at idle.I could either change the BOV, Re-circulate it or do this....

I went to the HO-Depot and picked up a plumbing 1 way swing valve.It was too long to fit where I needed it, so I cut a piece off of it.



Here's the BOV side of the valve:



Here's the Atmosphere side of the valve:



So far she looks like she'll be ready for the RB Meet!!!

The next thing I gotta do is figure out this TPS problem.I'm not getting ANY voltage from it.

My car idles really high.I've been trying to time the car but I can't get a good reading, since the idle is really high and fluctuates when I unplug the AAC.

[WhatsADSM]

Awesome! Great to hear it worked like a charm first time.

Good luck with the TPS it shouldn't be *too* bad to figure out. Hopefully it is something small and not a bad sensor.

[240z4u]

Did you check base timing? Mine was way off after the coil installation.

Looking good though!

[Sil240]

Thanks!!

I'll post up a vid of the BOV with the valve in there to compare.

I tried to check the base timing like you said.But the car is idling really high and fluctuating, anywhere from 1700 - 2300rpm.

At this engine speed it looked like my timing was like 25-30 deg, it was totally off the timing marks at times.

I even tried to crank the AAC screw all the way down, it would still fluctuate but it would be a bit lower.

Also I went to check my TPS and I'm not getting ANYTHING from it. So i'm going to re-trace the wires and find the problem.

[240z4u]

Okay well don't go out and romp on it before you check the timing, mine was WAYYY off after the coil installation.

[Darius]

Mine too. Now the CAS bolts sit in the center of the slot rather than off to one side.

[neo240sx]

I think I'm about to switch my neo over to this setup I'm having problems with the wasted spark (Buick) setup breaking up under boost at 5000 rpms

[neo240sx]

Can you see the pics??I'm doing this all from my phone.

Hey whats the part number for the truck coils I gonna do this and dont wanna end up with Vette coils when I order them.

[WhatsADSM]

Can you see the pics??I'm doing this all from my phone.

Hey whats the part number for the truck coils I gonna do this and dont wanna end up with Vette coils when I order them.

FWIW the LS2/LS3/LS7 vette coils are fine. They actually are an identical coil in terms of strength just don't have the heat sink.

[neo240sx]

The truck coils(d585) are harder to come across than the vette coils(d514) both with the connectors and pig tails end up costing around 250-300 shipped.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram posted or do we just gotta go off what's posted here?

[neo240sx]

I got a set of 8 ls2 (d514-A) coils with the harnesses off ebay for 225 shipped.

[240cp]

Hey guys i have a couple sets of truck coils (8) with harness. Will let them go for a good bit cheaper than the goin rate of e_gay. Let me know.

Edit: i just read my own post, to be clear i have more than two sets of 8. Sorry

[RustspecS13]

Congratulations on getting it running. Sounds great and super smooth. I'm definitely doing this to my rb20 before I start tuning it heavily.

I just cant decide if I want to put the coils down by the passenger side strut tower/frame rail area or find some where on the motor. Because I still have the stock upper intake manifold. How would the coils fit next to their respective spark plugs?

~Alex

[Sil240]

Neo - if you look at Whatadsms thread and 240zs I posted up part #s and applications with years. Just look up on egay or 240cp

Rustspec - thanks bro!!
There's definitely no way you can get the coils near the plugs in the valley. Unless you rig them up on top of the coil cover somehow.
I put my coils there so I could use the shortest length wires. But if you have the stock Plenum the You should probably mount it on the tower.

[neo240sx]

CP - PM me I can't figure out how to message you.

And you pwnd my post and my buy! Where were you 2 hours earlier. I got the Vette coils.

[240cp]

hey neo tried to pm you. looks like you need to go into your profile and turn on the PM feature.

[Sil240]

my car is up and running but when I use my consult. It gives me an Ignition signal code. 21 has anyone seen this code because of the lack of ignitor or do I just have a separate problem? ?