LS1/LQ4/LQ9 swap

[dat925stunna]

ive been doing some research and im kinda skipping the ls1 and doin the 6.0 silverado ss motor... 2005 LQ9 Cast Iron Block 6.0L Engine rated at stock 375HP 91-93 Octane the 2004 ls1 pushes out 350hp but im talkin to dude from daft innovations to see if the ls1 swap kit works with the Lq4/Lq9? but does anyone know if i can mate a T56 to it

if any one knows ill for you

[OutToWinPAHC]

yes it does. LS/LQ are the same externally with the exception of intake and belt drives. See the hybrid section.

I have a LS6 in my car, but I have a lQ9 as a spare.

[simmode1]

I have a LS6 in my car, but I have a lQ9 as a spare.

Dayum...

[TroubleBound]

I have a LS6 in my car, but I have a lQ9 as a spare.

Dayum...

^Dayum is right, that's baller.

OutToWins car:That ish is so nice.

[mattblancarte]

How much weight does the LQ add in comparison to the LS? 200 lbs or so?

[OutToWinPAHC]

Not sure its all in the block 150-200 would seem about right. Out of the box its not a bad motor. You need to swap intakes with a LS1/6 type or buy aftermarket like a fast 90 or 92mm.

If its a low mile LQ9, replace the rod bolts with some ARPs, get a set or 243 heads (to save doe), Good PRC or Patriot gold valve springs and tie retainers, LS7 lifters, hardened pushrods, cam, injectors and tune.......

Should get ya in the about 400rwhp, the right cam, paired with the right TB and fast intake will break the 4s

I paid 175 for my LQ9, has rod knock. They come with the larger cc 317 cast heads, which are good for building for forced induction on a budget. The pistons are different then the LS2 6.0, heavier, but still a good motor to build, they say the lq9 ingnition coil are better then the LS series.

Modified by OutToWinPAHC at 7:13 PM 6/19/2009
Modified by OutToWinPAHC at 7:15 PM 6/19/2009

[simmode1]

^Dayum is right, that's baller.

That ish is so nice.

Oh yes, I'm very familiar with it. Youtube is always recommending his videos to me...

[SR24DET]

You dont think a cast iron V8 will make your car a little front heavy? I can see it if your dragracing, but anything else..... I just dont see it handleing well. The LSx engines are of choice because they are made of AL.

[dat925stunna]

wow im down but i really just want the torque for drifting you know i am doin the low rise intake for sure bcuz i like my stock hood but yea i can get my friends LQ9 out of his girlfriends escalade she got rear ended bad and its paid off so its jus sitting in their yard rotting to death

[dat925stunna]

love your car BTW its badass i love the dual exhaust

[Uberck]

OutToWins' car is an automatic

[OutToWinPAHC]

Its a built TH350, old school with auto/manual valve body. The auto parts lets her cruise around without being violent because its only the top two gears, but in all reality its a race built trans that's brought up on the converter and manually shifted

[C3Sierra_S2000]

Actually according to GM the cast iron blocks are reported to weigh anywhere from 65 to 75 lbs more than the aluminum blocks. The internals are relatively the same weight wise and all have aluminum heads unless you get a very early LQ4. Things you will need to think about is that you will need to run the F-Body front accessory drive which means you will have to change the crank pulley also. You can buy the CTS-V setup brand new from GM for about $800 and is very similar in location to the F-body stuff and should work. Then sell your truck accessories to recoup some of your money. You can use the truck alternator in a F-body alternator bracket if you end up buying used parts. I run the 160 amp alternator in a F-body bracket. Other than that everything dimensionally is the same. I am running a T-56 behing a L92 which is the new Escalade motor but still a truck motor. The LQ9 with a mild cam and tune can make 400 to 450 hp easily since you will be running headers and a K&N type filter anyhow. If you drop the newer L92 heads on it then you will be close to 500hp. Have fun with it and if you need anyhelp feel free to contact me. I just finished mine up.


Modified by C3Sierra_S2000 at 11:00 AM 6/22/2009

[dat925stunna]

Actually according to GM the cast iron blocks are reported to weigh anywhere from 65 to 75 lbs more than the aluminum blocks. The internals are relatively the same weight wise and all have aluminum heads unless you get a very early LQ4. Things you will need to think about is that you will need to run the F-Body front accessory drive which means you will have to change the crank pulley also. You can buy the CTS-V setup brand new from GM for about $800 and is very similar in location to the F-body stuff and should work. Then sell your truck accessories to recoup some of your money. You can use the truck alternator in a F-body alternator bracket if you end up buying used parts. I run the 160 amp alternator in a F-body bracket. Other than that everything dimensionally is the same. I am running a T-56 behing a L92 which is the new Escalade motor but still a truck motor. The LQ9 with a mild cam and tune can make 400 to 450 hp easily since you will be running headers and a K&N type filter anyhow. If you drop the newer L92 heads on it then you will be close to 500hp. Have fun with it and if you need anyhelp feel free to contact me. I just finished mine up.

Modified by C3Sierra_S2000 at 11:00 AM 6/22/2009

wow you lost me lol jk but im now debating between RB20DET or LS1/lq4/lq9? ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

[dat925stunna]

i cant make up my mind i love the LS1 in a small car or as i like to call my project if i go with an LS1 (the poormans vette) but i gotta buy the crossmember from rich 4rm daftinnovations,fuel pump,sway bar spacers,longtubes,drive shaft,CMC,and redo my wiring harness..... its a total of 2k in jus the parts with out the motor now the motor goes from 800-1300 98-2000 LS1 by its self with out transmission(T56) and 70k+ miles?now if want a combo they go from $3500-$5000 depending on wat year too cuz the 04 ls1 go for looooooot.......but and RB is hella cheap on ebay cheaper than SR20s im like WOW! but im undecided i feel like a girl wen she dont know what to wear on the first day of school hahahahaha

[aceof07]

Whats your budget? if its less than 7 grand then do the rb20 swap, easier, ALOT cheaper, and less fabbing. the ls1 swap is not for the faint of heart, and also stay away from ebay engines. make sure to search around the site some more, maybe you'll go ka-t.

[dat925stunna]

Whats your budget? if its less than 7 grand then do the rb20 swap, easier, ALOT cheaper, and less fabbing. the ls1 swap is not for the faint of heart, and also stay away from ebay engines. make sure to search around the site some more, maybe you'll go ka-t.

mind is made up i stepped out of my garage and im goin LS1 im doin a dual exhaust setup similler to the rage rover how you see the pipes come under then tuck up i looks bad a** i seen sum guy with a ls1 miata do it

[OutToWinPAHC]

No dual exhaust... youd be coping me then

[C3Sierra_S2000]

I modified my crossmember myself and used Corvette motor mounts. I pushed my motor way back so that I didn't have any sway bar interference. It really isnt that hard of a swap to do. Good luck with it.

[OutToWinPAHC]

I thought you bought your car swapped? Or is this when you re-swapped motors?

[C3Sierra_S2000]

I thought you bought your car swapped? Or is this when you re-swapped motors?

This was when we swapped out the LS1 for the L92. Everything that was done previously was re-done by us. It was done pretty half-@ssed and really didn't look safe to me. Plus since I kept the Variable Valve Timing it caused my front accessory drive to be 1.5 inches further out than the LS1 so we had to move it back that much from where it was originally. We did extensive surgery on the cross member and used Corvette motor mounts to install the motor.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Oh, very nice

[C3Sierra_S2000]

Just for reference I went from this:



To This:

[dat925stunna]

No dual exhaust... youd be coping me then

ehhh its aight

[dat925stunna]

so yeea i have been lagging on the swap funds are low im barly getting by sorry guys i also got retarded bs to do

alignment-omgspl tie rods- not installedspl tierod ends- i need to buysteering boots- not installedrear toe rods- i need to buyebay rucas- installedmy cracked windshield-bs i got a fixit ticketmy huge dent i just fixed take a look

before



after

[hatedinthemind]

wow you did that yourself?

good job

[dat925stunna]

yup took a whole day to get it right but honestly i shouldve got a new 1/4 panel