Just been informed that my '96 Q has an oil leak and diagnosis is both valve gaskets are leaking. So since I'm going ahead with this repair the service guy is getting info from Infiniti for all the parts needed ..... would they get better info and all the parts from the Scottsdale Infiniti that I have used in the past (I purchased and had sent to service company)???, Or is there other parts companies to work with.????
They hope to get all parts OEM. Cost is approaching $3500.00. Also, I need ideas on all parts that can be replaced while the engine is 'open and available'. The plenum stuff has all been done, as well as knock sensors.
Thanks.

say what? $3,500.00 to replace valve cover gaskets????? parts should be around $50 for the 2 gaskets,and maybe 4-5 hours labor if I recall......a +/- $500 job at best.

you didn't mention the scope of work other than vcg.
prudent to do spark plug replacement, clean egr pipe, TB cleaning, fuel filter on pass side,
maybe reseal the upper front covers if they are leaking.
still-no way can i get my head around $3500.

Where are you located? That price is incredibly high.

Talked just now with the service guy about that $3500.00 job estimate. They are talking about replacing the EGR not cleaning, it looks very rusted, and a b**** to get out, and as well as replacing the plugs and pulling the manifold and resealing upper covers.
I live in San Francisco so hourly is about $140.00/hour.
We can handle the extra 3 grand cost, but since at this very moment the brakes and calipers are being done as well as total fluid changes at a cost of $1600.00. So 3+ grand on top of that, and not knowing if this is just the start of $$$$$$$ gets me nervous. Still waiting for the trans to act up(pampering that dude).
Being a 19 year old car I certainly can't complain. Audi S7 would be next purchase after I get divorced from fixing the Q on the sly.
I have a '06 LS 430 in my garage for long hall driving, so the Q is city.
After talking to the service guy about what you folks says is 'way high' costs they sound more likely to explain better. Thx for info.

you are still getting hosed on that valve cover job.......manifold does not need to be touched to replace the valve cover gaskets,plugs are about $100 add on to this,and egr pipe surface rust is not an issue{this coming from a loooong time 96Q owner with over 310,000 miles on original engine and transmission,and surface rusted egr valve that still works correctly} $3500 for this is plain highway robbery,period.

Thanks. I will be sure to pass this on and try to get a more detail opinions before any work.
The car runs fine. Leak was noticed with this last annual inspection.
Will get an estimate from Infiniti and see what they say and will probably take that at face value also since they loved getting their hands on my wallet in years past.
This service company definitely wanted to talk about the extensive work and never pushed for me to agree. They have done good work for 8 years already but when a crappy 2 bedroom house costs a million dollars here in SF, guess they are just hoping to stay in business with going the extra mile, but not with my money. Thanks again.

The VC job for both sides + plugs is probably an 8 hour job, maybe 6 if you're good. Being in SF, I highly doubt you have rust issues like those of us out here in the salt belt. At $140/hour, they're charging you about 23 hours worth of work, which I think you could remove the entire drivetrain, replace every seal on the engine/trans/diff, and put it all back together with new bushings, mounts and a new exhaust system.

At the end of the day for that job you have about $250 in parts for seals + gaskets at 100% full retail (more like $125 if you shopped around)

sandydennis2326876 wrote:Talked just now with the service guy about that $3500.00 job estimate. They are talking about replacing the EGR not cleaning, it looks very rusted, and a b**** to get out, and as well as replacing the plugs and pulling the manifold and resealing upper covers.
I live in San Francisco so hourly is about $140.00/hour.
We can handle the extra 3 grand cost, but since at this very moment the brakes and calipers are being done as well as total fluid changes at a cost of $1600.00. So 3+ grand on top of that, and not knowing if this is just the start of $$$$$$$ gets me nervous. Still waiting for the trans to act up(pampering that dude).
Being a 19 year old car I certainly can't complain. Audi S7 would be next purchase after I get divorced from fixing the Q on the sly.
I have a '06 LS 430 in my garage for long hall driving, so the Q is city.
After talking to the service guy about what you folks says is 'way high' costs they sound more likely to explain better. Thx for info.

1. i wish to commend you for taking your Q ownership so seriously. It's refreshing to see people that want to make a 20 year old car what it can be (and was early on in its life).
2. maintain your trans (fluid drain and fill at minimum every 10k) and the rest of your car will give up first.
3. I would be suspicious of anyone saying the EGR valve is a b****. the pipe just needs cleaning with a long bottle brush. Those of us who have actually done the job (and a lot more) know removing the EGR valve is a 5 minute job.
4. I also own a relatively new audi. its a lot of fun, but has not the build quality of the Q. The S7 will be a maintenance handfull after 4-5 years depending on your mileage. And i'd be surprised to see it go anywhere close to 19 years.
5. there is some value in paying a bit more to someone who understands your car and treats it right. Would you be able to get an itemised list of parts and labor for the workscope you wish to have done? We can help you dissect it and find the labor synergies.

So I talk to the service head guy and he said that 3 grand was an estimate for the worse case senario and explained once they start removing stuff and if bolts break bla bla, hours add up. He thinks the erg pipe will break at a joint that is very rusted. Nice guy but probably has a kid in private school I bet!!
So they want to: Remove Engine cover to replace both valve cover gasket, clean cover, check valve clearances, replace exhaust manifold gasket, replace throttle body gasket, replace erg pipe(worse case).
What I will do is take the Q to Infinti and ask estimate for exactly that. And go from there.
Just noticed I was charged $140.00 for blowing out the clogged sunroof drain holes (like a 1 minute job). Sure wish I had more DIY sense, but nope.
I'll keep in touch, good advice so far. THANKS

I actually want to be the last person in the country with a 1996 Q that running well, then I can take it to the Pebble Beach Classic show in 2045 and sell for 95 grand. ha ha

LOL, that will be the day that I see a 1st gen Q on Barret Jackson!

There's absolutely no reason to remove the engine to replace the valve cover gaskets. You will definitely break more things removing the engine.

There's also no valve clearances to check, as the Q has hydraulic valve lash adjusters, so no "valve adjustments" are ever required.

This might be the only time I've ever heard of an independent mechanic charging more than the dealer! I think you'd be cheaper shipping me the car (to Indiana) and I'll change the covers for $1000, haha!

i took the engine covers as the plasic coil pak covers under the ignitors (true). So that we are helping you understand, the EGR pipe absolutely blocks removal of the ds valve cover and gasket. i believe (could be wrong) that nissan designed that pipe to pivot at the lower end where it connects to the exhaust pipe. It *could* break there if overly rusted, but i don't recall anyone on the board ever mentioning that.... hit it hard with pb blaster first, should just position out of the way.
exhaust manifold gaskets do not need to be replaced to do vcg (unless yours are leaking)?
did not see the spark plugs listed. that should be another 1/2 hour max in labor once the valve covers are off. do it. cheap now.
since they take the TB off (true) the gasket should be replaced. but while it's off, there is clear access to the EGR lower intake manifold port (the other end of the elbow that the egr valve bolts to on the upper intake spider). that elbow gets carbon plugged. needs to be cleaned when TB and EGR valve off. should also be not more than another 1/2 hour for that.
you mught think about replacing O2 sensors if never done--those are pretty accessible with all the work being done.
use genuine nissan or NTK if you do the O2s.

Ditto on what Wes said... someone is making a mountain out of a mole hill and charging you to move the dirt!

sandydennis2326876 wrote:I actually want to be the last person in the country with a 1996 Q that running well, then I can take it to the Pebble Beach Classic show in 2045 and sell for 95 grand. ha ha

You might want to start at the Japanese Classic Car Show (JCCS).

11the Annual JCCS - Saturday Sep.19 2015
Queen Mary Long Beach, CA

I think I saw something where a car can be entered when the generation reaches 25 years of age. Since the first gen Q45s were introduced as 1990 models, it may be eligible.

I wonder what it be like to run Antique Car license tags on my 91 model next year?

Is this a dealer that is quoting the price or an independent shop? I think the dealer in my area would charge a lot less.

Here's an engine picture with one of the valve covers off. Like other's have noted, its not that big of a deal to remove the valve covers.

On the advice of BadQ45t in Half Moon Bay CA my '96 Q is now going to be serviced by Richard's Auto Service in San Bruno. His estimate for the valve gasket job and plugs was half the price of my regular local service guy. David was well of aware of the beautiful'97 Q from Half Moon bay and is looking forward to working on a G50. Thanks..

Like anything else on the Q45, it requires a great deal of patience and tenacity. So far, changing the starter and power steering rack has been my toughest job. Anyway, the first time I changed the valve cover gaskets on my '99 Q45t i thought i was going to lose it. Unbelievable. It took me the better part of two days, then one side leaked and i had to remove it and redo it. Something I have learned after doing this several dozen times, on my car and others, is forget what Nissan tells you about only using the grey Nissan approved permatex, and to only use it on the half moon cut outs in the back. That is BS. If you follow Nissan's process, you will be changing the gaskets again in two years after the gasket by itself gets brittle and breaks. You have to supplement the seal. I have come up with a combination/process that almost insures your valve cover gaskets will not leak, especially if you are missing (broken) a bolt or two. If you are missing a bolt, use Pro Seal Copper XS Hi-Temp RTV Silicone Instant Gasket Maker on both sides (cylinder head and valve cover) of that area. The stuff is amazing. Everywhere else, on both the gasket and head, use Permatex 80062 Super High Tack Gasket Sealant. Bolt the valve cover back on as prescribed in the manual; let it sit overnight before starting the car to give the sealants a chance to dry. The Copper XS high temp is very effective and impervious to heat and oil and will seal where you are missing the bolt. Copper XS is used on turbocharged engines, stays flexible, and designed not to fail under pressure. The last time I changed my valve cover gaskets, about a year ago, I broke off the very back valve cover bolt (the one between the two half moon valve cover cutouts). Man was I PO'ed. And, there is no way to get a drill back in there to remove the old screw and tap it. Upon reassembly, I coated both sides (cylinder head and valve cover) between the lower and upper rear valve cover bolts with the Copper XS; and used Permatex super tacky everywhere else, both sides. Then I bolted the valve cover back on, waited overnight, and it hasn't leaked in a year. so even if you are missing a screw or two and you cant get to it or just dont want to mess with it, try this process! Tip. Never use any gasket cement or sealer on the valve cover before pressing the gasket in place. That is a guaranteed leak (I know from experience).