JWT stage 2 clutch/flywheel kit

The G-Series Tuning Forum is the place to discuss G35/G37 performance modifications and mechanical repair.
PnL'sG37s
Posts: 20
Joined: Fri Jun 13, 2014 5:10 pm
Car: 08 G37s, M/T, Ivory Pearl, R2C intake, Cusco strut bar

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Hello fellow NICO, I recently bought a JWT stage 2 clutch combo kit from CZP for my 08 G37s. I still got some researching to do before I throw this in. I'm wanting it to be a DIY to become more knowledgeable, but also think my syncros are going on me. Any tell-tale signs for syncros going out? Car doesn't grind but not smooth, could almost feel a tidbit of roughness while you put in next gear, also only on low gears, which are used the most so I think it's more syncros than transmission or clutch. Again I'm not a mechanic. But if was going the DIY route while I have things dropped and open up what some things I should look for pertaining to inspections. Also a list of things I will/would need to complete the job. I'm assuming clutch fluid but What about Trans fluid or is that a separate area within the transmission.
I received a FSM from Audtatious (thanks btw) so I will read up on that as well. Just trying to minimize down time.
Also how does one embed images on here? I would like to share my G's transformation with you all.
Thank you all for the help.


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audtatious
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Posts: 37008
Joined: Sun Oct 27, 2002 5:31 pm
Car: 2017 Q60 Red Sport. Gone: 2014 Q50s, 2008 G37s coupe, 2007 G35s Sedan, 2002 Maxima SE, 2000 Villager Estate (Quest), 1998 Quest, 1996 Sentra GXE
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Bump?

Sorry, never had a manual in my G's as the wife can't drive one :(

PnL'sG37s
Posts: 20
Joined: Fri Jun 13, 2014 5:10 pm
Car: 08 G37s, M/T, Ivory Pearl, R2C intake, Cusco strut bar

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Oh its cool. After reading the manual Says to replace csc body and tubing. So I am still waiting on parts. Will update when I get the job done.

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SX APPEAL
Posts: 1345
Joined: Tue Oct 05, 2004 10:26 am
Car: 06 G35 Coupe 6MT
95 Maxima SE 5MT
Location: Springfield, MO

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Our shop just did a clutch on a 2008 G coupe and honestly, its not a job for a beginner. Not trying to insult your abilities or anything, but there's a reason it costs so much to do one at the dealership, its by no means a "throw it in" job. Ours was complicated even further by the fact that someone had already put a Spec stage 2 clutch/flywheel in at some point (car had 76K on it and had been through 2 clutches :gapteeth: ) and hadn't done the greatest job on the installation. Missing bolts everywhere, not to mention the flywheel bolts for the spec setup are different than the factory ones, so we add to wait on those for an extra day. Its a big job even for a master tech with helpers, a 2 post lift and a trans jack, not the kind of thing you want to be doing by yourself in your garage (unless you have a really awesome garage...)

Also on your synchro concern, depending on how many miles your car has and how you drive, yes they might be starting to get a bit worn, however you wont be able to directly inspect them without ripping the trans apart. For a typical clutch job, this is not done, as the trans gets removed but left intact. You wont see the inside of it by just having it out of the vehicle. Not sure what you're getting at when you say you "think its more the synchros than the transmission or clutch", as the synchros are part of the transmission. I understand wanting to work on your own vehicle to gain experience and knowledge, but judging by your current level of expertise, I'd strongly recommend that you have you clutch done by a professional and maybe take the learning in baby steps. :dblthumb:

PnL'sG37s
Posts: 20
Joined: Fri Jun 13, 2014 5:10 pm
Car: 08 G37s, M/T, Ivory Pearl, R2C intake, Cusco strut bar

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Thanks for the info sx appeal. I don't have an awesome garage. But I do live at a military base with an auto skills shop. So I have the equipment just not the experience/knowledge/.
I do have a problem though.
I tore everything down. Removed the old clutch and flywheel. I had everything back up when I tried turning the engine over. And it doesnt want to fire off. Called the tech at JWT and turns out I forgot to align the flywheel. Laughing at myself for my use of words....."throw it in" lol
So I tore everything off again got the flywheel off and sure enough the dowel pin is smashed leads me to believe that I was in fact not indexed correctly. How do I find out the top dead center and get it index?
I have read that the JWT logo is TDC for the flywheel but need to verify, but what about the crank? Dowel pin should be in what position?
Thanks in advance for the help on this guys.

PnL'sG37s
Posts: 20
Joined: Fri Jun 13, 2014 5:10 pm
Car: 08 G37s, M/T, Ivory Pearl, R2C intake, Cusco strut bar

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So after work I installed everything back up. Oh Father in law was nice enough to do some research and index the flywheel while I was at work so I'm not sure how he figured that out. Fired it off and it starts but has a weird idle but no check light. So I call the tech at JWT and explain my issue. Flywheel is indexed but what is going on. While on hold CEL goes off. Tech say to Run codes looking for a cam error. It's the MAS and rich air/fuel. I pop the hood and inspect. The whole driver side intake tube is out of engine? Connect it and CEL is off idle is back to normal. Now I have done research about my new flywheel noise. But I'm slightly confused on one thing about the noise. I didn't notice till about 3 miles down the road. I am stationary and clutch pedal is out. I hear a sound like a diesel. Which one research said it would. But the sound goes away when I push the clutch in, sounds like the normal G I'm used to. Back and forth the pedal goes and the sound in tandem. I also saw a YouTube video about it with the same sound but they didn't do the pedal engagement back and forth.
Thanks again guys.


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