cheers to a guy that gives an R32 the respect she deserves!

silicone hoses from a guy on GTR canada, hes sold out now tho.

thanks very much for the kind words, i realy do love this car so i treat it quite well as you'll see below!

so ill start todays update off with some good news, my parts should be here from Z-tune by next week end. also i got my twin turbo pipe modded by my dads machine shop, they did a superb job. all i did was send in my part with a couple of photos of other peoples modded pipes and the guy replicated it, and the welds are amazing!



ok so now back to the car - first on the table was to get rid of the HICAS junk and re-loop the power steering lines through the cooler and back into the reservoir from the pump, same way that everyone else always does it.



and here we go, got it all out, only took a few hours, and lots of swearing.i was able to leave my rack in place because its been welded not to move, but maybe in the summer i will swap it for the driftworks kit just because its lighter than the rack.

ok so as you can see from the photos above, the engine bay was SUPER dirty.. and on the list for tonight was a decent clean up, and a wire tuck. so you saw all the before shots above.. heres the after shots, its pretty much finished my engine bay now. just need to mount my oil filter relocation, my coolant tank, and do the wiring for my battery relocation.



and heres the big picture i really dig the new covers i order from the UK.. laser etched GTR fuse box cover ..mmmm

well a bit more updates today:

I wanted to beef up the rust prevention on the underside of the car in some of the places that see the most wear and tear. even though the Skyline is undercoated and made from galvanized metal, its still a good idea.

so I gave the frame rails and the inner fenders all a coat of POR-15, its that special paint that becomes harder as it absorbs the moisture from the surface its painted on... tested in a number of ways and it comes out amazing, it'll dry to a hard finish and really keep the dirt off

i took these out last week and have been going through the process to bring them from rusty to fresh and new, also oiled and cleaned all the joints, and they're finished with a high gloss high endurance metal flake red

so i started with relocating the windshield washer fluid reservoir to the trunk. that meant running 4 wires front to back, and 2 water hoses.i tucked them all under the carpet along the side where they run all the other wires and tubes. it worked well.

and i ran a line up to the front which will be for the intercooler spray
Modified by archaeicbloke at 11:43 PM 3/23/2010

well not much in terms of an update tonight but some interesting photos i have here.

tonight i ran my ground wire under the car and into a mounting point in the engine bay for the battery relocation kit. on that same mounting point i also mounted my ??Greddy?? earthing kit and its the factor body ground mounting point too.... i checked with my volt-meter/ohm-meter and im getting perfect conduction through all grounds and chassis from one end of the car to the other.

i also re-wrapped the vinyl black tape on the cables that had old and cracked coverrs.

then i had to get started on the prep work for doing the rust proof coat on the other side frame rail and inner fenders... so that means i used degreaser and got all the gunk, grease grime and dirt off the places to be paint, and i let it air dry for a few days.

but heres the funny part, i was doing the area around the gas tank filler neck, and i moved the black plastic cover for it and rocks fell out!... so i took it the cover off completely and ommmgggg look what was back there! 20 years worth of sand and dust and dirt!!! barf... so i cleaned it mint again!... thats getting painted too!

well today a couple of boxes arrived! woohoo!!





new N1 oil pump:



Vibrant silicone hose couplers and T-bolt clamps. unfortunatley the hoses shipped to me were the wrong type! so we have to exchange them.

some cheap ebay brand coolant overflow reservoir which i plan to modify to make it fit nicely in the engine bay:

and of course... Garrett GT2860R-5's with some braided oil lines with oil restrictors:

thats all for now.. next week will see more progress and im also still waiting on a few shipments to arrive:

Can't wait to see those turbos in! Your hitting this car hard, keep at it.

agreed.. sick.

:O whats this>? a box with nissan stamped on it!:? hrmmm what is it?



....... mmm new R34 N1 crank!... i measured with a micrometer and the oil pump fits 100% perfectly with ZERO play onto the crank nose with full engagement!

the plan is the engine will be going to Autoworx (a local shop) shortly to have the new crank and oil pump fitted along with ACL bearings, the rest as like always lately will be done by myself.

so in order to get the engine over there it had to be seperated from the transmission to make less work for the mechanic which means less paying $$ for me. so i disconnected the forward prop shaft.

then i spent many hours wrestling this awful heavy lunk my god its SO hard to get off by yourself! its heavy and awkward and is super difficult to handle. lol.. anyways i finally got it seperated

as for the stock clutch... well guys don't forget even though the car will be able to crank out big power, it won't be doing so until mid summer... need to wait for the fuel system upgrades to handle the power. so the stock clutch will actually be just fine for now...

ok so update today... i actually did all this stuff yesterday and didnt have time to update it, so im posting this up now, then ill go do more work, then ill come back and post more tonight.. hopefully. thats the plan anyways lol.

so this came in the mail yesterday: its some various sized vacuum silicone hoses again to replace the old ones on the engine, sizing is 5mm, 7mm and 10mm.

and also in my order from summit racing came the battery relocation kit: its 1 gauge wires and all the grommets and clips needed and a battery box.... my cut-off switch is on the way too so it'll be a wicked electrical set-up.

so as seems to be lately any time i try to use a work light.. it gets destroyed *sigh* yep, i yanked the wires right out of the bottom of the work light... so i needed to fix this one otherwise i couldnt keep working... so re-wired it and it works great now.

k so i put the final rubberized coating over the POR-15 base paint, heres the frame rail, the other side looks the same.

and of course the finished wheel well:

and now the fun stuff. im finally ready to start putting things back on the car. so i started with the rear cusco upper arms... every piece i put back on gets a dab of anti-seize between all moving parts... wanna keep everything nice and mobile.

followed by the Tein rear coli-overs, again anti-seized. and the nismo rear strut tower bar went back in at the same time. (my garage is definitley becoming more emtpy!

and i thought, hey, why not do the BOV's at the same time... i don't like having parts just kicking around everywhere.

as promised, another update tonight (although i don't know if anyone actually reads this thing or if im just wasting time? post something, just say hi! if u do read this - im curious)

so you all remember my project to relocat the washer bottle to the trunk right? well have a look at this what do u see?



NOTHING! - hhahaha.. and thats because its finished.. tucked away in the rear quarter pannel.... so its finished! the usual front spray washer button sprays the front windshield, and the "rear" spray button triggers the intercooler spray... mmmm success



yes of course i realize ill need a funnell to fill the thing but honestly, i think i used it so little last summer that i never even filled it once. my window just doesnt get that dirty .. or i wash my car a lot haha

ok now tonight i got some more new pieces, these are super rare, in fact ive never seen anyone else who has them. i think they've been out of production for more than a decade already, so REALLY rare.

RS*R divided turbo outlet pipes, made from really high grade stainless steel!

these are super bada$$ and now i can install my turbos with out worrying about having to take it apart again later



and i proceeded to finish off the battery relocation wiring. i ran my redundant negative cable under the car since it doesnt matter if it rubs and touches anything. but the positive cable i ran through the interior in the wiring channels. both are 1 gauge wires. and i connected the red (positive) to the clamp where it usually connects to the battery up front. and secured the wire. its covered with eletrical tape for protection, lots of tape.

heres the situation i have to handle later on, im waiting for my cutoff switch to arrive so i can decide where to mount the switch, as the switch will determine my wiring in the trunk. i like to tuck wires when possible.

and the ground point in the trunk will be the center of the spare tire well. its begging for it.

Hi! Please keep us updated, it isnt a waste. Just because most people dont post doesnt mean you dont get alot of views. The washer fluid relacation looks great. Plus not too many people have Skylines so thats why this part isnt very active. But keep it up, as always youre doing awesome!

I've read this thread for a while and I like how it's going. Don't worry people are interested in how your car is coming along. Keep up the good work!

wow awesome, thanks guys for the support!

well as some of u guys know, its exam season right now at school, so this hasn't been getting much attention lately (from me anyways).. but it has been from Autoworx in MTL here... the engine is at autoworx for another week or so, fitting the new crank, N1 oil pump, ACL race main and rod bearings.

thats gonna be a fresh bottom end, pistons we know are all still good since the compression was so good.

so i found a wicked good deal on a complete turbo back to catalytic exhaust kit made by the legendary RS*R.. they haven't produced anything in like a decade for the R32 GTR so it was a rare find, ... and to keep it as a kit (downpipe + turbo outlets) ill be selling my trust downpipe.

so heres the downpipe, u saw the split dump pipes before in my last post.



then i mounted my alloy coolant reservoir...

then because theres not much i can do i decided to polish my strut tower bar.

mmm pretty shiny

-> this is a long overdue update, but i had to finish my exams, plus my engine was at the shop... so heres i guess the update we've all been waiting for, and where i explain my reason behind all this....

so heres the story. last year i noticed my oil pressure was kind of low... like 3 bar max... so i bought the DEFI oil pressure gauge and sensor and installed that, i needed to be sure of what i was seeing... so i warmed up the car, and drove on the highway... from 2nd gear to the top.. up to 7,800 RPM... i had my Defi unit record the oil pressures... so when i played it back sure enough.. it hits 2.5 bar and never goes above.

damn! i thought, whats up with this... did some reading found "mitch's" post describing the similar symptons, and when he pulled his oil pump off he found some screws had come loose! and the oil was leaking out the backing plate... i.e very close to failing....

so i suspected the same thing of mine, and now we have the results...

Can anyone spot the problem?!


you can see on the backing of the oil pump what LOOKS like liquid oil.. its NOT... its actually oil thats been baked on... from the heat, so it seems there was oil leaking out the backing plate


ya thats right! i called it... screws coming out.. i soooo diagnosed that!! and if anyone questions wether or not i did...mitch, and marc both heard me say that about 4 months ago when all this started. lol

so i HAD to open the oil pump and see whats up inside..


look at the rediculous engagement area... whats that like 4mm?


Yep! 4mm


So now i figured well lets have a look at the shells... and my god, a number of them show signs of scoring and heat stress!!!


look at the burn on this one


so i figured check the crank to see which was causing the sore spots... hrm this is rod # 6


and this is rod #1... so 1 and 6 ... geez!


heres the area that engages on the crank.. god its absolutley dispicable!


so my engine was essentially a ticking time bomb about to run out of fuse!! im SO lucky that i did something about this before it ruined my block and pistons and rods!!...


ok, so as you know the engine has been at autoworx for 2 weeks.. and i finally got it back on friday


it looks the same on the outside, but now its sporting a brand new R34 crank, an N1 oil pump, and ACL race, rod, and main bearings.... I.E. its a pretty solid bottom end now, and we already know the pistons and rods are all good since we had good compression, so we're all set to run some reliable power.


so ive got my engine gasket kit back with the remaing gaskets to put on myself, and a new set of belts for AC, PS, and Alt


only the best fluids for everything


so i had some buddies over for the afternoon and they were bragging about being strong or w/e and i convinced them to give me a hand (since they were so strong haha) and get the tranny back on... we did... it took 5 minutes, super pleased about that as thats VERY hard to do on my own..lol


Then i wanted to start finishing off my battery relocation thing... so i drew up this plan and i started cutting up some sheet metal


after some time cutting, sanding and bending (i dont have a bender so i did all this by hand... ouch


so the idea for this, its going in the trunk of course... ok ill start from the "box" part... that box will have the 200Amp circuit breaker mounted on top for easy and safe reset if necessary, and on the front will be a voltage reader wired to the battery to display batt voltage...


the flat part is what will attach to the body in the trunk and be a secure mounting point, this way i just have to remove the heat shield temporarily to attach it rather than dropping the gas tank (which i didnt want to do)...


then you see theres a downward part with notches followed by another flat part, thats where the battery box attaches to, it sits an inch above the floor pan in the little sunken recessed spare tire area... now in between the base of the battery box and the floor pan in the trunk will be rubber foam padding... the point is to act like a cushion for the battery ( i know its not necessary but why not be over cautious? less jumpy battery may make some difference in some future ? lol i dono) anyways the battery will be an optima red top so it doesnt matter anyway.


and with respect to a clean finish, the trunk, when finished, will show only about 4 inches of battery box. and that shiny little voltage reader on the metal box will be in the left corner just near the rear passeneger side wheel well... all that other stuff will be covered by carpet.



ok so in the coming days i'll be bolting on some of the new parts to the engine, then it goes back in the car.

serious progress to come this week, i promise!

turbos are being changed this week by me... along with the gaskets and a few other things...

so for anyone who reads this thread, my old crank and oil pump will be going up for sale, i know some people like to take these parts and fit a new collar to the crank and put reimax gears in the oil pump housing. i won't be asking a whole lot for either of them...lol

so i started my new job at the machine shop, its going well, im learning a LOT... anyway the job has me most of the day so i get very little time to work on my car, but i finally managed to finish installing my battery box/panel and re-fit all the trunk lining.

its pretty clean in there just needs a good vacuuming to clean up that rug. and im considering shortening the length of the red wire to the breaker but i havent decided if its worth doing yet...i will probably do it later.

later tonite i may re-install some of the interior and work on my center console set up,
im planning something cool for it, you guys have seen some of it (in the previous pages) but ive added a bit more to the design.

next up after that, is to get to work on that engine!!!! which id say is about time! ive done everything BUT engine work. lol


so the battery box comes up about 4 inches above the carpet. and you can't see it but also my windshield washer fluid bottle is in there too remember all on the back left side of the trunk to help corner balance when im sitting in the car.

well, things are going slow, it seems i need to sleep TOO much between working 60+ hours a week and trying to work on my car i only have like an hour or 2 each day. im really getting frustrated with my lack of time so these updates will be breif, but still interesting i think.

this weekend i bought my new battery for the trunk: Optima Red top gel battery its rated for 800 Cold Cranking Amps, interesting enough when we tested it, the battery was showing 1200 CCA's! wow good job optima! way to make a good product!
and it fits like a glove!



so i had about 2 hours to put in today only, so i decided i would remove the turbos today. i started off by removing the inlet and outlet pipes for the compressors:


ok so while i was removing my oem turbos, the water feed lines for the turbos became... um.. broken!

i put a wrench on there to unbolt it all, (the same as every other line - which came off with out problem). but with very minimal force they snapped and cracked. i suppose 20 year old steel lines with heating and cooling over time became super brittle and fragile, anyways, they're scrap now.


so i need some ideas as to what i can do to resolve the problem, i need the engine finished ASAP!


its the top water line before the large banjo bolt (the T-section) both pipes are broken. ....AND the 2 feeds that go into the turbos themselves.

my ideas:
1) source some used lines from a JDM shop here in MTL
2) buy new braided lines.

so im wondering if anyone has any better ideas? AND if anyone can reccomend a quick easy place to purchase the braided lines from?


anyways the rest came off with out any issue at all...
heres the oem turbos, i checked the shaft play, theres not a whole lot of play... very very minimal, these turbos ran stock boost their entire life so i would expect them to be in good condition.



all thats left to do on this side of the engine is unbolt the exhaust manifolds, replace the gaskets and match the manifold outlets to the turbo exhaust inlet gasket size

Great thread man, I loved my GTR when I owned it...I started to get deep into modification and had to stop myself as I've had other focuses...but good on you for goin all the way! My car was pretty stock too and I added some mods myself, but never went the distance...

Keep the posting coming, I'm learning alot about my car even a year after it's been gone!

@Spartanair - thanks man! will do!

so last night i was able to get some work in on the turbos, i started off by taking the exhaust studs out of the old turbos, the oil and water wrap around lines and brackets etc.... installed the studs into the turbo outlet


then put the new metal gasket and bolted it all up


then bolted in the studs for the exhaust inlet:


and this is the part i wasnt aware of... i tried to install the oil drains onto the new turbos but realized they wouldnt bolt up at all! so i called around and a buddy of mine (thanks mitch!) explained everyone has that problem, and the solution is to mill the metal and make the holes line up, then just trim the gasket... thank god for diamond carbide dremmel bits!



And it fits quite perfectly



so then i installed the wrap around hard lines and brackets, and afterwords the heat shield for the turbo housing, and heres the first turbo all ready to rock and roll!

so today i worked overtime hours, and when i got home i only had a few hours left before bed, so i figured it just knock off the second turbo job... it was the same as the first, pretty un-eventufl, im super shocked i managed to get all 18 exhaust turbo studs our with out breaking or damage a single one!!

doesnt everything look better with as twins!? .... heh...heh... boobs

It's going to sound sick. Grab a clip.

Good build, where did you get all of the battery relocation parts from? And the fuse thats on top?

Actually this summer I'll be making a short length feature film with an incredible editor, the guy is amazing. Just go search on YouTube: statement films, he usually does sports short films like skiing, so we're gonna be making a nice skyline video.

@j240sx battery relocation kit is from Summit Racing, it's NHRA and IIHRA approved for racing. The circuit breaker came from a shop in Canada called "Lazer Auto".. but eBay has them too.

More done today...

Started off by replacing the gaskets on the exhaust side for the manifolds:


Then I took off the fuel rail and injectors all to be cleaned up before re-installing:


Much like the fuel rail the turbo inlet/outlet pipes are covered in corrosion:


So I tidied up the fuel rail. It's now a silvery shiny piece:


This is the rear turbo outlet pipe. It was filthy. So after wire brushing it, and sanding it, I was able to get rid of the welding seam. I want to bring it to a dull polish like my twin turbo pipe:





Then the insides of the pipes were covered in oil soot and sludge so I cleaned them all pretty good:


And the last thing I did today was change this:



Into this:
Blue is for water, red will be for air.


I'm not sure what to do with the intake manifold honestly. I'm contemplating not even removing it, but if I do, I will replace the gaskets, and more then likely bring the manifold to a sandblasted grey finish. I just don`t have the time to do a good job on polishing it, and I'm not sure how much of a point there is to changing gaskets that don`t leak. Anyone comment on that?

I know you don't get that many comments on this thread, but I think that's because people are just so consumed with reading your story... I love it man... keep doing it. I wish I could have one of these down here in the states.

Thanks bud!!

After a big problem with me breaking the water lines, and the Z-tune oil lines were not exactly bolt on as they were described, anyway I went to tuboquip and they sorted it all out for me quite nicely.

It looks all like this, I had the entire water line replaced, just cause it's better than old pipework:


So then I bolted up all the turbo stuff and all the lines:


Then installed all the pipe work and such:


Then swapped over the vacuum lines here to the new ones, and instead of putting back those old quick spring clamps, I switched them all over to regular clamps so there's much less likely a chance of one coming off. Also installed my Greddy sandwich plate and relocation kit lines:


And the same for the vacuum lines on the BOV's:


Then I finished a few other things and hoisted it up to get it to go back in:


And after many hours of manipulating the giant thing by myself' it finally sits by itself properly:


And got the tranny supported now properly:

Well, ive had a number of questions via PM and on other forums so i just thought it'd be better to answer them all in the open:

1) the deal with the oil cooler is,i did install the sandwhich plate onto the block and the oil filter relocation part, but i will only be hooking up the oil cooler core AFTER the oil change (which is in 3 weeks) because i dont have enough oil otherwise... i know its a stupid little situation, but w/e....so for now theres just a hose looped around back to return the oil to block after filtering.
QUESTION:while on the topic of oil coolers, im thinking of installing the cooler core in front of the BOV's... any thoughts on that?

2) the intake manifold... i didnt polish it because i need this car running asap to get to and from work, so really im going to be running only 7 PSI of boost... untill about mid way through the summer, once i feel confident that there are no hidden gremlins, ill be buying a denso fuel pump, a new fuel press. regulator, 700cc injectors, Z32 maf's and either nistune, PFC L-jetro, or just a straight up remap at the local tuners. at which point ill seek a VERY safe tune at about 1.2 bar.

3) the rocker covers....once the car is running well enough, ill feel comfortable investing some money into the rocker covers, i want to get them painted candy apple red... not right now, but later in the summer. also an R34 engine ornament plate, and a true polish to all the pipework etc.


So... for today... heres what i did:

i wanted to take it easy in the start so i just took my time and installed the shifter, that stupid snap ring Circlip is quite difficult to put back with out a good set of snap ring plyers, i have some but they were too small!


ok, back to the engine now, i connected a bunch of vacuum lines, and replaced some more with new silicone lines, and more new clamps etc...


then installed the new ALT belt, and the new A/C belt, and bolted up the compressor


then the power steering new belt and bolted it all up and set the tensions accordingly


then put back on the newly painted front rebar (for those who asked me before, its not an N1 ducting bumper, its been cut, but very nicely and accurately so probably from japan.)


then i connected up all the rest of the engine harness wiring:


installed the rad fan and the koyo rad... shawheeet! check out those bling bling rad supports! hahaah


back under the car to hook up the speedo cable, the rear drive shaft, and the ATTESSA pump thing... i can't figure out how it feeds fluid through there for the life of me, so if someone who reads this DOES know how, please enlighten me! lol


and finally for today, since its really starting to come together now, i installed the upper and lower samco rad hoses, connected all my Defi sensors, and put in the first bit from the HKS intercooler hard piping kit... oh yah, those are the new vibrant performance silicone hose couplers, and new T-bolt clamps.

so I've been in the midst of dealing with a family emergency these last 3 days, been at the ER every day.. not so much fun!!! but having to skip work during the day has opened up some hours to do some work in the evening now... so i bolted up the new RS*R downpipe:


then i decided i would focus on the wheel wells (yesterday and today)... so i started with the more difficult task first... fitting 2 new extended wheel studs to the passenger side knuckle... Reason... because i was an idiot when i was trying to remove the axle nut... put a pry bar in between 2 studs and leveraged it on the floor... people tell me often im a strong guy, y`know the kind that has broken a 50 pound bench vice by over tightening it... LOL (sorry dad! hahah) anyways that whole crap idea bent the 2 studs and they essentially just fell right out of the holes!!!

so i used the only trick i knew to get the studs locked in tight... well, the only deep socket i had was the key for my "tuner nuts" ... they're the cheapo $2 a nut kind of thing... so i figured i could just blast through the end of the nut.,... LOL and i did!!! haha... right through! the friction generated SOOO much heat i burnt my thumb... hot enough to make water sizzle and evaporate instantly... but ya the technique is to use the impact gun and my spacer (as a big washer) and litterally pull the new stud into the knurls.... cause it cannot be done by hand, and its very hard to do using a hammer back there.

anyway check out this poor tuner nut.....open ended lug nuts ftw..


So after installing the new studs, i proceeded to re-install everything else: in this order, front drive axles, Tein coilovers, AMS front upper tables, lower table with balljoints, cusco tension rods, swaybar endlinks, axle nuts and cotter pin locks, rotors, calipers and pads. it went well with out a hitch, ... also before putting each item back on, if it had threads that were exposed (like the adjustable coilovers or tables or tension rods) i coated them with copper anti-seize compound. and on all the retaining nuts and bolts a dab of blue loctite!
heres the passeneger side all finsihed:


that weird white stuff in the photos on the painted parts is actually dust...lol the camera flash made it show up!
and heres the drivers side after filling the front diff with gear oil.



and heres a photo of all thats left to put on... really not much left to do... i think i'll be firing it up tomorrow night ...possibly!
Wish us luck!

in this update: Problems with the engine... videos, and photos... please read!

so i continued with the re-install of all the components, intakes and pipe work....


then installed the intercooler and the remainder of the piping, the wheels and bolted everything together


ignore the fluids under the car and the photo in the background of the police with c*** in the face (LOL)


so the only thing left to do was fill the fluids... i filled the oil, the coolant, the power steering fluid, and Atessa...

- can someone explain how to "burp" the power steering system? i think there is air trapped in the lines, but the reservoir is full, and it turns left and right without any problems at all...

anyways, primed the oil pump by unplugging the CAS, then plugged it back in and fired it up, went well first try she was rolling good! let it run for a few minutes then noticed smoke coming from the exhaust side/turbo side of the engine, freaked out, shut it down right away.
(i just uploaded these so give the videos 15 minutes to complete uploading)
video of startup...http://www.vimeo.com/11915283

looked under the car, a pool of coolant, small but still coolant, looked around couldnt see where it might be coming from, only thing i could think of was turbo water lines, the return part where it connects to the block maybe?

anyways dried it all off and started it up again... no leak!... so im thinking maybe the coolant was just from all the coolant i had spilled everywhere about an hour ago...

Video of smoke...http://www.vimeo.com/11915408

so i let it run again for 5 minutes and it starts to smoke again from the turbo side!... so im smelling and it DOESNT smell sweet (coolant), nor does it smell like oil, nor like anything ive ever smelled before...... i did spill power steering fluid all over about a day ago though so im thinking maybe its just that burning off of everything so i let it run, and rev the engine a bit... the smoke doesnt not come out more or less with revs revving changes nothing, all the same but constant smoke none the less, and its really just a light light smoke by no means is this heavy... its a white/gray smoke and i can not describe the smell.


then i figured well, i better move the car around to see if its anything i can notice while driving... i drove around the block, oil pressure was amazing 3.5 bar minimum when hot, higher around 6.5 bar when cold and revving.. i even let it build boost to like 0.5 bar and it worked amazingly!!!

aside from the smoke i don't notice any issues at all... but why oh why is there smoke?

- i don't think its an exhaust leak, the oil and water are fine, theres nothing leaking anywhere...
- how long would it take to burn off all the power steering fluid u think?


please guys, throw me some ideas, im exhausted, and frustrated and very upset about this, i took my time and tripple checked everything....

Hey there, just read the whole thread, loving it! I really like the color of your GTR! (Jealous American here)

Almost every time I rebuild an engine and put it back in, it will smoke for the first 30 minutes or so. You've got some new bits in there likely still with assembly lube on them and oil from your hands, which takes a while to burn off. The spilling of power steering also sounds like a culprit. I wouldn't freak about it unless you've driven around for more than an hour and its still smoking. Look around near the exhaust for puddles or wet spots that have fluid on em.

Nice car man, keep the updates coming!

so i thought id update while im at work now just to put everyone on the same page, no photos until later tonight, or tomorrow morning.

so heres where we stand on the situations...

ill address each problem indivudually:

smoke from turbo side.... ive now driven the car and run it for more than an hour and the smoke has stopped all together!!! thanks to everyone who suggested its the new gaskets bedding in, you were 100% correct (and thanks to all those who made suggestions of any type, i really appreciated it)

super loud banging when going over bumps... while test driving last night i noticed a SUPER loud banging while going over holes and bumps and couldnt figure it out because it was like the shocks were non-existent!..... so i went to be last night a little out of it (one too many brews hahaha) and woke up this morning with the answer to this problem AND the oil leak problem!.... SOLUTION... after seeing in a dream.... in` the suspension setup, everything is either rose joinnted or ball jointed... everything except one part! front upper tables, i re-call i cranked the nuts on there SUPER hard... so instead i took them off today and put loctite and only did them about 3/4 the force i used last time....

it worked! took it out for a spin and NO more banging... u see, the bolts were so tight that the tables were not able to move freely up and down! problem solved.

the oil leak turbo side... well i suppose its not the best location or the worst. its definitley leaking oil from the turbo side. in particular its leaking from the T-bolt that bolts into the block and supplies oil to the 2 oil feed lines, the problem is a bad seal around the copper crush washers, i recall having trouble with that bolt when installing it and maybe the washers not being clean enough, so im gonna have to re-do those 2 washers and re-install the bolt,

thats kind of hard to do with the engine in the car but i also dreamt up a solution... i can get to the bolt somewhat easier i remove the passenger side front drive axle, so ill do that monday.



on another note, i put all the body panels on the car and everything else wors 100% perfectly... it seems i didnt miss a single connection or anything.

over boosting... now i was told by my mechanic at autoworx that to limit the boost properly all i needed to do was plug everything back in the way it was because the stock boost solenoid would limit it properly... during my test drive i eased on boost slowly... and it rised above 0.7 bar!! and then even for a split second above 1.0 Bar and the defi alarm sounded so i let off... played back the gauge readings for the last 2 minutes... and yep, it spiked at 1.1 bar... so im gonna have to use my foot as the boost controller from now on until i fit a really proper boost controller. (im gonna speak to haig about this too)

so the car goes in june 10th to the shop for the following:

- new spark plugs
- oil and oil filter change
- alignment
- fix any leaks that i couldnt get (there may be an intermittenent coolant leak around the rear of the motor.. its not consitent so im not sure yet)
- if i have enough money, new ACT 6 puck clutch, re-surface flywheel, braided clutch line, and clutch damper circuit delete.


then ill fit a boost controller and i just have to finish what im doing with my interior.


ill keep everyone posted, thanks for all the help guys!

well 2 nights ago had some buddies over so we put the body panels back on....
heres the hood, its actually super light but i just wanted to be super careful and get it line up perfectly


there now that looks good!! except for all the dust.


so im waiting to install the fender liners and under trays because tomorrow im gonna try and fix the oil leak...speaking of which i was able to snap a photo of what exactly is leaking. like i said, its by no means a large leak at all. but still.. i want 100% confidence in my car, no leak is acceptable!

so like i said before its the banjo bolt that connects the 2 oil feed lines to the engine block.... *sigh*



anyways, i had only 2 hours today between waking up and starting work, so i started on my center console.. i began by measuring the CF board i had to fit perfectly behind the center console trim piece.... want this to look clean!



then i mapped the cutting plan.... (the edges of the CF arent 100% straight so i had to make some minor corrections so that the things would sit straight even if the edges were not....looks kinda... smiley!


so the Defi gauges are water temp and oil temp, and thats the Link II system controller... i didnt want anything with super flashy bright lights in my field of vision (defi's are brightness adjustable woohoo!)... thats why every thing on and around my dash is Red Led's... red is the color of the spectrum that is least bothersome to drivers... gotta keep the focus on the road!
so the 4 round things are rivets... the rivets hold a bracket... and the bracket holds the defi controller in place.... pretty clean i think.


so later tonight ill wire it up, and mount it as it should be...

below the controller is where the future "stereo" will go... so ill cut that out when the time comes as it might be a while before i buy any stereo...lol

the turbo timer, boost controller (to be purchased) and traction controller (to be purchased) will go in a different location.... you'll have to wait and see!