I own two 1994 J-30's that I bought new. Since this forum has been so helpful, I wanted to share my fixes for the door lock issues and provide the sources of the information. Many of you have helped me, so hopefully this information will help existing members or new members. I also saw some erroneous advice posted. Assuming the moderators will allow, I will later provide PDF files on the service manual pages, wiring diagrams, diagnostic maps and pictures.

1. Typically the problems show up first when using the driver side front door. When the problems get bad the driver side door will not open. The advice posted of damaging the door panel or cutting the sheet metal should not be used. This process assumes that none of the links are broken. HERE IS HOW TO OPEN YOUR DOOR. A. Open the front driver side window completely. B. Go outside of the front driver side door. Insert the key into the door lock. C. With your right hand using the key to unlock the car and your left hand inside the car moving the mechanical door lock, you will be able to unlock your car. Once it is unlocked, either the inside handle or the outside handle can be used to open the door. D. Be advised, depending on the sequence that you unlock your door, you may set off the security theft system. E. Once you door is unlocked, keep the door open and DO NOT CLOSE IT COMPLETELY, because the door lock actuator MAY lock everything again. F. Close the window, because it needs to be up to work on the door locks.

2. At this point, you need to determine if you really want to proceed to fix your door lock or have the dealer or someone else do the work. If you have ABOVE AVERAGE mechanical ability, GOOD manual dexterity AND you have the correct tools, which I will list here, you will be able to proceed with ease to remove the door panel and repair your lock.The minimum tools required are::- 10 mm socket, small extension and rachet (recommend hex style)- #1, #2 and #3 philips head screwdrivers- putty knife that is dull with rounded edges- spring hook with pusher (to disconnect and reconnect links)- scissor clamp (to reconnect links if you have large hands) - powerful flashlight- soft rag to wrap around putty knife- pencil and paper to draw the link configuration as you disconnect them

3. I recommend that you determine the exact problem, so using the 1994 J30 FSM (Factory Service Manual), pages BF-22 to BF-27, you have the wiring diagrams and diagnostic recommendations using a VOM or multimeter. On the other hand, after you go through this process I can summarize everything by saying if the driver side door is the only one giving you problems, the problem is either the latch or the actuator. If you have the problem with the driver side door and the passenger door, the problem may also include the Door Lock Timer located under the instrument panel. The details are on page BF-24 of the FSM.

4. the majority of the time (98%) of the time, the problem is the Door Lock Actuator or the Door Latch Assembly according to Infiniti AND you need to remove both to fix either, I would replace both because they are screwed together and the problem will not return on the driver side front door for a long time. I suggest you order the following parts before you start, so you have them when you start this project. Here are the Infiniti part number numbers:- 80503-89910 Lock Latch Assembly (Left) $91.23- 80553-89907 Door Lock Actuator (Left) $133.99- 80999-VE000 Clips (Order 4) $8.84The clips are to replace the one you will probably break or damage when you remove the door panel. The clip by the remote mirror is usually always damaged the first time you do this. The door panel has six clips, however, you may decide to replace all of them if your door panel is already loose or rattling. The prices I paid were to the Infiniti dealer in Santa Monica, CA, so you can probably find them cheaper at the dealership that people in this forum use in Arizona. Lastly, I would not waste my time using parts from a junk yard, unless you plan to sell your car immediately.

5. The first time I did this, it took me 3.5 hours to remove the door panel, door lock latch and door lock actuator carefully as I either labeled the components and/or made drawings of the position of everything to ensure I would put everything together correctly. It took me 50 minutes to re-assemble everything and verified everything worked. The second time I did my other car it took me a little over 2.0 hours to do EVERYTHING. So plan your time accordingly.

6. Now you are ready to remove the inside door panel. FUZZY CATS has great pictures on how to do the passenger side front door. The process is the same from the driver side front door, except the you need to remove the unit with the window switches to expose the screw in the handle area.Also, if you have the FSM (Factory Service Manual), the instructions are on page BF-45 of the FSM. Page BF-10 of the FSM has a picture of the Front Door with the location of the components. I will make PDF copies of these pages, to later post here. There are two screws that are hidden in the door panel. There are three screws visible at the bottom of the door panel. There are six clips also holding the door panel, three at the front and three at the back. The top of the door panel has a lip with window seal that is hung on the steel door.

7. Once the door panel is removed, remove the connectors to the mirror adjustment, the power window switches assembly, the light and the trunk release.

8. There is a piece of plastic the is weatherproofing the door panel. I carefully pulled the plastic from the rear top to rear bottom of the door and tried to keep the mastic (glue) in place on the door frame. Now you can pull the plastic away and clearly see everything. The location of the components is in the FSM on page BF-10. If you buy the parts prior, you can see what everything looks like.

9. I suggest disconnecting the link that goes to the actuactor by un-snapping the green plactic clevis. The link that connects to the bottom left of the bell crank by un-snapping the green plastic clevis. I also suggest removing the two 10 mm socket screws which retain an aluminum or galvanized steel shield that protects the linkage. Lastly, I remove a brass colored 10 mm socket screw that held the window rail at the bottom of the door. Now you need to disconnect the link from the door latch to the key tumbler by un-snapping the pink plactic clevis (this is where the spring hook is needed to both disconnect or reconnect). This allows you to see everything clearly and gave more space to pull out the door latch and door lock actuator as one assembly. You need to use the #3 plilips screwdriver to remove the three screws that hold the door latch in place and remove the 10 mm socket screw the holds the actuator in place. The other thing to be aware of is the linkage from the outside handle escutcheon that is inside positioned through a blue plastic holder on the top of the door latch assembly (this is the ONLY critical adjustment that needs to be maintained, see FSM, page BF-10). As you carefully remove this assembly, disconnect the wiring harness connector from the door lock actuator. Now remove the assembly and the links still connected to the assembly.

10. Take the old assembly to a table and carefully remove the screws with the #1 philips screwdriver connecting the latch and actuator. Note how the latch release is aligned to the actuator lever. Assemble the new door lock latch assembly to the new door lock actuator and connect the attached links on the old assembly you removed in the SAME way to the new assembly you assemble.

11. You can now replace the assembly and reconnect/reintall everything. Take your time and carefully reposition the links in the same way you removed them. Reconnecting the link to the key tumbler with the pink clevis will require the spring hook and scissor clamp plus some patience. DO NOT FORCE THIS CONNECTION, when you have everything aligned and positioned correctly, this link falls into pink clevis easily and allows you to snap it in correctly.

12. Once the latch/actuator assembly is installed and all the links are connected, connect the wiring harness connections to all the components you disconnected and verify the locks are functioning correctly.

13. Assuming everything works, disconnect the connections to the components you removed to remove the door panel and reposition the connectors in the correct position to install the door panel. I found it best to install the six clips on the door panel and once the door panel is properly hung on the door on the top where the window is, locate the holes on the door for the clips and snap the door panel into place from the top to the bottom.

I will add PDF files for the sources of information I referred to as soon as possible. I wanted to post this while I remembered most of the process. If anyone needs immediate help, before I get the pictures and other information I want to add, please email me or request help here and I will ensure we make contact.

thanx ill try this when i get home today and ill hit you up if i have any prblems aight thanx

I have two problems with my power door locks on my 94 J30T. The first is I can never unlock the doors using my key fob remote control. I can live with this one.The second problem is about half the time when I try to lock the doors using the door lock switch they will lock, and the rest of the time I will have to manually lock my drivers side door lock using the key. I am guessing this second problem might be fixed with a little lube in the right place. While you had your door panel off did you see any places that looked like they might need lubing that could be lubed withoiut taking the panel off?