ItzGenX Build Thread.

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
ItzGenX
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Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 7:46 pm
Car: Smoke Purple 95' S14.5. Powered by the "Iron Man".
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Well it seems I am bored and know how to spend more time on the computer then working on the car project. Yea I am lazy so please don't ask for updates and such. They will come as I go. :ohno: It took me weeks to get to where I am, but I am finally consolidating it all and starting a build thread. Don't assume I did this all in one or two days lol. I have a busy schedule and work on it when I am not lazy and have time to get something done. It also rained a lot the past few weeks, so finding good days to stand around in the driveway were rare. Anyway, here goes!

A little about the car. It is a 95' S14.5 that was previously road raced and daily driven. It was powered by a fully built and balanced 509whp SR22DET (90mm Bore, Sleeved) that revs to 9500rpm (where I set the limiter). This thing was ran hard in it's 3 years of service. Fast forward to the present and what I want with the car. The car will receive the entire BNR32 power and drivetrain minus the attesa electronics. Yes, that does mean I am still doing AWD. The plan is to swap over the strut towers and everything else should be pretty straight forward after that. The front subframe will need slight modification to the frame rails, and the rear subframe will go right on with SPL offset solid aluminum subframe bushings. I am aiming for at least 550awhp as a daily driver. All pictures are taken on my camera phone, so don't hate. On to how things got started....

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So here we have the clip on the day it arrived. It looks like a mystery doesn't it? 91' BNR32 Clip purchased from JDM Planet on ebay as a side deal. I purchased it because of the attractive price and the condition of how everything looked in the pictures. It came with all body panels, head/tail/corner lights, interior dash etc, engine ecu, attesa ecu, some other ecu looking box, brakes, suspension, and other misc stuff. I also got the entire rear subframe minus the rear rotors and calipers.
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A glimse under the hood before tearing it apart.

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The interior, night shot.

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A shot of the VIN plate and chassis code.

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The growing parts pile.

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Starting to pull the motor. This one is dubbed the "Iron Man".

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Motor out.

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Other motor out. Dubbed the "Hulk". Yes, that's a Z32TT gear box.

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Ok this thing is heavy. It bent my engine stand lol. Time to tear it down.

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Almost bare block.

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Very clean piston bottoms.

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Full bottom end laid out on my tool box.

When I have time, I need to get the block, crank, head, crank pulley, clutch and new internals/bearings over to the machine shop for decking/mill, bore, and install collar + balance + polish crank. The other leg of the project, I still need to go get some Argon/CO2 gas and make a big 220v extension cord for my welder. I also need to pick up some flat bar and other various steel things to begin the chassis mods. The front axles need to go to a local axle rebuilder for some freshening up. I'm sure there's more things, but I go blank all the time.

http://picasaweb.google.com/taiphoon228/DropBox#
Last edited by ItzGenX on Fri Sep 10, 2010 10:22 pm, edited 5 times in total.


ItzGenX
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I am going to be using the Isis oil cooler (with my own external T-stat I already had on the SR), so I want to leave the whole oil filter housing off and get the stud from raw brokerage. The thing is, I know oil usually bypasses the filter in blocked conditions or low flow conditions. The thermostat will only allow 10% flow when it isn't open. Is this bypass part of the actual filter block, or is it on the block? I see this funny machined spot on the block that may be it, but I don't know if it even moves or has a function.

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See that little circle on the left side? That is what I am wondering about right now. I know the oil flows from the right side galley, through the outer portion of the filter, and back into the block via the center. If lets say the outer portion was directed to the oil cooler which has it's thermostat closed, the outer portion will build up more pressure then normal and have very little flow to the center hole back into the block. So if that left circle were/is a valve, this pressure accumulating would open it and bypass correct? So the end question is, wtf is that circular thing on the left?

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l0nestar
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Looks like a good start man!

Yellow4g63
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Car: 95 RB20 240, 91 NX2000 VE power, 95 Stock 240sx
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Don't forget cometic for the small little gaskets ur going to need.

ItzGenX
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Yellow4g63 wrote:Don't forget cometic for the small little gaskets ur going to need.
I already have the OEM gasket set and Cometic Head+Exh gaskets.

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Shocker
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ItzGenX wrote:
Yellow4g63 wrote:Don't forget cometic for the small little gaskets ur going to need.
I already have the OEM gasket set and Cometic Head+Exh gaskets.
Even better IMO, I'm skeptical of their HG's too.. I found cosworth to work good for me. Glad to see you started an RB build with as much as you communicate over here I was wondering if you ever were going to dive into one.

What clutch is that? is that spec multiplate?

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StricNyne
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wow impressive man !!! ii had cometic hg and eventually went with a tomei

Yellow4g63
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I found the other gaskets from cometic to be way better than the oem stuff, never used there head gasket tho went with a Tomei on mine too.

ItzGenX
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Yea I've had cometic on the SR20 and SR22 and it totally failed me with oil seeping or water pushing. I was thinking maybe it was just the SR's design being too much for cometic's gasket. I also plan to be pretty liberal with copper spray on all layers. I am just giving cometic benefit of the doubt here as I've not had anything good from them before. If it seals, then good. If not, I am going to throw the stock HG on as I KNOW it will seal.

flatrate
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Car: S14 kouki

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I have a cometic HG, no issues so far.. copper sparyed and ARP'd

you will like the haltech, i have the same ECU, solid stuff so far

ItzGenX
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flatrate wrote:I have a cometic HG, no issues so far.. copper sparyed and ARP'd

you will like the haltech, i have the same ECU, solid stuff so far

Good to know about your experience with the hg so far. Now I feel a little bit better :yesnod . As for the Haltech, it's the only ems I have been using over the years. I've used the E6K, E6X, E11v2, E8, and now the Platinum Pro. Haltech has never let me down, and they work great in the hands of someone who knows their way around them such as myself. I have seen horror stories on them that usually turn out to be because of a horrible tune or tuner didn't know his/her way around the software to do it right in the first place.

godzilla_753
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really good stuff here, I know its probably gonna be looked down upon to recommend another forum, but to be honest, SkylinesAustralia forum is really really good for small questions like that oil cooler setup you were confused about. Those guys over there know their s*** backwards and forwards and are super helpful. I wired up my neo rb with lots of help from this forum and skylines australia.

ItzGenX
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Ok, so it seems I have been lagging to update this thread lol. I benched the cometic mhg for a cosworth one that my friend had. He sold his car and never got around to installing it, so free for me :gapteeth: . I don't have too much in pictures for the actual reassembly of the motor build, but it isn't anything out of the ordinary that you normally see. The crank was race balanced to a healthy 10k rpm. My machinest did the favor of knife edging all my crank counterweights by removing material slowly with a grinder rather than drilling holes out of it. He thought it would be better since my internals were lighter then stock, and I planned on revving at least to 9-10k rpm to begin with. Everything else was the usual and the norm except I sold my GT2860R -5's and McKinney downpipe for a GTX3582R (T4 1.06AR). I have been having trouble finding a premade manifold for my budget, so I thought I would just build my own. Fabbing the manifold will have to wait for when I can test fit the engine in the car. Anyway, enough words and more pics right? :ohno:

No explanations here, just a little bit on what has been going on lately.

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julio
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Car: RB26 AWD converted S14

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Looking good man. Like I said, I am working right here in Gulfport and would love to come and check out your project some time/lend any help with the AWD swap.

Also, looks like your PM's are turned off, but do you have the stock lifter shims lying around still? I need some for my exhaust side and getting new ones from Japan takes forever!

ItzGenX
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Hmm, I'll look into how to turn my PM's on lol. As for the lifter bucket shims, no I don't have any laying around. All my clearances to the cams were good after I moved a couple of the original shims around.

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HxC_Nismo
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looking good man

bmxarmy
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Looks rad man! were did you get the exhaust flange and 90's? im gonna need some too so i can fab my manifold. keep up the good work

ItzGenX
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I got the flange through Mazworx. The SS304 sch10 90's and straight pipe came from Ace Stainless. I went with 1 1/4" size, and it mates up to the head flange perfectly. It's going to be a while til I fire up the tig welder to start the manifold since I need to finish up the engine bay first.

bmxarmy
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sweet to the beat, it will be a while for also but i will need the supplies eventually. good find on ace!

ItzGenX
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Yea it was the best deal for the elbows that I could find. It took a lot of googling and posting on pipe welding forums to have someone finally point me in the right direction. Cheers!

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Coolwhip
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I'm loving it man!

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Shocker
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Looking like this will be a badass build. What welder are you using for the manifold?

ItzGenX
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I have a Lotos 250A that I got for xmas (china? who cares as long as it works for me). I am new to tig welding, but I will be sure to practice a bunch before trying on the manifold.

ItzGenX
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Well it was some nice weather today, and I was up early for no real reason. So I ended up in the garage welding the many seams on the GTR towers before going into the car. Afterwards I had to chop some excess metal to get it to line up with my alignment jig in the engine bay. Then I tacked them down and called it a day since I forgot to pick up some sheet metal earlier this week (metal supply is closed on weekends).
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They kind of sit a bit forward, but that's to be expected. Much like direct swapping in a R32/33 Xmember with stock mounts for RB20/25 swaps, it seems everything is moved forward an inch or so (noticed with shifter placement on Xmember swapped cars). I aligned it all up based on the stock Xmember hole to keep the lower control arm around where the stock one was. The GTR lower control arm has the same offset measurement from the rear stock crossmember bolt holes as S chassis and RWD R chassis cars. I just hope I don't have to move my radiator forward lol.

bmxarmy
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Nice work man! Glad to see some fairly constant progress. Are you going to run the stock radiator or a different one? I got a little done on the rambler today also, I will be posting an update soon hopefully. Keep up the good work.

ItzGenX
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I will probably start off with the stock 32 GTR radiator just to get it rolling. If I see enough room, I'll toss something better in there since the south gets hot from time to time :P. I was going to practice tig welding today on some scrap SS and alum, but for some reason, I kept staring at the missing shock towers in the engine bay and decided to fill the void.

bmxarmy
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Hahaha, yeah i know that feeling. Yesterday I was gonna get the brake and clutch setup done on the rambler, ended up pulling out the steering column and getting rid of the old column shift. Hopefully we both get more done today!

julio
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Car: RB26 AWD converted S14

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A sloppy pic after I installed mine: Image

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Shocker
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If I was you and were that far at tearing into the whole front end I'd make my own rad support and move the rad forward to accommodate a clutch fan. I'd also look into making the rad support completely removable for easy tear downs in the future.

ItzGenX
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Shocker wrote:If I was you and were that far at tearing into the whole front end I'd make my own rad support and move the rad forward to accommodate a clutch fan. I'd also look into making the rad support completely removable for easy tear downs in the future.
Yea I was planning on just bolting the upper radiator support back on so it would make belt maintenance easy. I was contemplating on the idea of just making a tube framed radiator support that moves the ac and radiator forward, holds the head lights, and supports the bumper. I'll looking into other people's pics to catch some ideas on moving the radiator.

Julio, by looking at some reference points in your engine bay, your towers look about an inch further back than where I have mine. The threaded hole that holds the center of your fenders and wheel arch ribs are what I am looking at in your picture for reference.

BMX, how do you plan on steering without the steering column? :laugh:


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