So i knew it wasnt a good thing, but i dont have the money for a new one yet, so i figured as long as i drive normally i should be fine

but i read on a youtube coment on a video of a cobalt with a slipping clutch, that if you keep driving it like that itl burn the flywheel

this true? or is this only if you abuse it?

When i first got my 240, the clutch was slipping. At first it wasn't that bad, but over a period of about 2 months. It completely went out on the freeway. Had to get it towed to a trans shop. But the flywheel looked fine.I bought a new clutch from ebay from a brand called XTD. It's been on the car for about a year and a half and still feels great, and it only cost like $110 shipped.

SketchyRollin564 wrote:So i knew it wasnt a good thing, but i dont have the money for a new one yet, so i figured as long as i drive normally i should be fine

but i read on a youtube coment on a video of a cobalt with a slipping clutch, that if you keep driving it like that itl burn the flywheel

this true? or is this only if you abuse it?

If the clutch is slipping, the flywheel is already burnt.

Any time you replace your clutch you should have the flywheel resurfaced, it costs all of $40. Its just like with brakes, you machine the rotors when you replace the pads, the same goes for your clutch. Drive the thing till it wont move.

PS dont read youtube comments, they will only make you dummer.

well it all depends on just how worn the clutch is, if it goes far enought you will run the rivets right into your flywheel. At that point your probably going to be replacing the flywheel as well.

Warped161 wrote:well it all depends on just how worn the clutch is, if it goes far enought you will run the rivets right into your flywheel. At that point your probably going to be replacing the flywheel as well.

Rarely does that actually happen though. More often than not the gap becomes too much for the pressure plate springs, its not that its warn that far down, its that the thickness is below spec. Also, sketchy is 16, so Im guessing he used this clutch to learn stick, hence why it is slipping.

Sweeeet thanks for the quick replys lol i was expecting not to see anything till tommarow

sticky steve, how bad did it get before it completley went out? mine is to the point where i can still shift kinda hard from 1st to 2nd at around 5.7k as long as i give the rpm enough time to drop, otherwise itl just slip straight down if i shift fast

but in general it just doesnt grab hard anymore

Quote »If the clutch is slipping, the flywheel is already burnt.

Any time you replace your clutch you should have the flywheel resurfaced, it costs all of $40. Its just like with brakes, you machine the rotors when you replace the pads, the same goes for your clutch. Drive the thing till it wont move.[/quote]I dont really know too much about this stuff, so sorry if i sound like a dumbass, but what happens when a flywheels is burnt? and what do you get out of resurfacing it?i need new brake pads pretty bad, whats getting rotors machined?

And yeah, i knew how to get the car moving without stalling, and knew how to shift before i got my car, but that was it, so i pretty much learned everything myself ont he car, but i didnt exactly mess a lot of things up

i rev match when i downshift, and i dont try to be stupid and powershift or anything, then again, i clutch kick somtimes when i drift, and ive tought people how to drive stick with my car, and ive let my retard friend drive it when it was already slipping, and he still trys to be johnny speed shifter

so i have a feeling that has somthing to do with it, but whatever, im not letting people drive my car anymore after this lol

i think im gonna go with a stage 1, just because i know its gonna take some abuse and i dont wanna go out and buy a new OEM clutch and have that get all soft in like 6 months

how hard of a job is it to replace a clutch? where would i go to get my flywheel resurfaced?

Wow, nice novel.

Resurfacing the flywheel uses a machine to remove a thin layer of the facing material. When you use a clutch, the flywheel heats up, if you over heat it by riding it or driving it while its slipping, you can glaze it. When the flywheel becomes glazed, it is too smooth for the clutch to grab, causing slippage of the new clutch as well. An overheated flywheel can also have hard spots that need to be removed by machining.

Rotors are the same way, but personally I will never resurface the rotors on an S14, they are too thin to begin with, and cutting them will make them very susceptible to warpage. That and rotors for the S14 are cheap, cutting them does not make sense.

Search for Proven Force. They do all my flywheel cutting, driveshaft balancing, and U joint replacement. Check to see if there is a location near you. If not, any other drivetrain machine shop should be able to help you out.

when my clutch was slipping, i have to rev up to about 3000 rpm to get it moving. And on an up hill, forget it. Any machine shop should be able to re-surface it for you, or at lest point you in the right direction. And i agree about the brake rotors. They do come a bit thin, so new one are what i always do along with the proper break in period. And to replace the clutch can be a 2 person job, all you need is some jack stands(4) and a jack to help hold the transmission up, since your gonna have to drop it out from under the car.

Here's a write up about it

zerothread/160195

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240sx/1994/cl.pdf

Hope this helps and good luck

another thing to throw out since im on the tranny topic, going into each gear after 4.5k ish, it gets tougher to put it in gear, and when im shifting fast i feel like i have to really throw it in there, as opposed to when im driving at lower rpm, where it usually just goes right in, and also, 3rd gear grinds somtimes when i shift fast (i doubt its a shifting error cause its always and only 3rd gear)

so... what im guessing with what little knowledge i have

the synchronizers are bad, and 3rd gear especially?or maybe it has somthing to do with the linkage?

SketchyRollin564 wrote:another thing to throw out since im on the tranny topic, going into each gear after 4.5k ish, it gets tougher to put it in gear, and when im shifting fast i feel like i have to really throw it in there, as opposed to when im driving at lower rpm, where it usually just goes right in, and also, 3rd gear grinds somtimes when i shift fast (i doubt its a shifting error cause its always and only 3rd gear)

so... what im guessing with what little knowledge i have

the synchronizers are bad, and 3rd gear especially?or maybe it has somthing to do with the linkage?

The slipping clutch is putting extra strain on the syncros, and third gear is starting to wear. I would take it easy till you get a new clutch. Also, getting some good gear lube might be a good idea.

third gear as in the synchro for it? or the gear itself?

how hard is it go get gear lube, and put it on the gears?sorry im such a dumbass lol

would it be a good idea to put new synchros when i replace the clutch?

If your gonna put new synchros in, then you might as well have the whole tranny rebuilt. I would just get the clutch replace

(zerothread/160195)

and then do a tranny fluid drain and refill.

http://www.eternalrivals.com/240sx/trans/

And then if its still doing the weird stuff like the gears not engaging properly, you might have to adjust your clutch petal.

SketchyRollin564 wrote:third gear as in the synchro for it? or the gear itself?

how hard is it go get gear lube, and put it on the gears?sorry im such a dumbass lol

would it be a good idea to put new synchros when i replace the clutch?

Hahahaha, no the gear should be fine, your syncro is the problem.

Gear lube is another name for tranny fluid. Nissan specifies GL-5 gear oil for the transmissions, hence the term, gear lube.

FlatBlackIan wrote:
Gear lube is another name for tranny fluid. Nissan specifies GL-5 gear oil for the transmissions, hence the term, gear lube.

Ooooh careful there. Please do NOT use GL-5 in your transmission, it must be a GL-4. I recommend Redline MT90.

Replacing syncros is a pretty big deal. It's like rebuilding an engine in that the whole thing has to come apart. Unless you want a perfect brand new transmission, most people find it easier to just buy someone's used tranny and throw it in.

wow, i guess ill skip the synchros till i rebuild the tranny haha

but just to make sure, im fine driving with a bad clutch as long as i keep it civil, right? im done messing around till i get my new clutch, but i still dont want anything to happen where i cant drive it home, cause i need my car to get to school, and i think i finally found a new job which im gonna have to drive to (thank god)

I know i should replace it asap, which im going to, but in the meantime (probably a month), im fine driving the one i have as long as i dont mess around?

SketchyRollin564 wrote:wow, i guess ill skip the synchros till i rebuild the tranny haha

but just to make sure, im fine driving with a bad clutch as long as i keep it civil, right? im done messing around till i get my new clutch, but i still dont want anything to happen where i cant drive it home, cause i need my car to get to school, and i think i finally found a new job which im gonna have to drive to (thank god)

I know i should replace it asap, which im going to, but in the meantime (probably a month), im fine driving the one i have as long as i dont mess around?

yeah, you'll be fine until it just completely glazes over. unless you have worn the disc though to the rivits, in which case you will tear up your flywheel. just drive like a nun, and listen for any odd sounds down there.

Well its half and half

Somtimes when i drive it, its fine, and it just slips

other times, its pretty bad, smells like ***, and at one point yesterday got REALLY bad

When it was engaging it was REALLY rough, not as in it grabbed hard, but like shakey, in lack of better words to explain it. I stalled it for the first time in a long *** time. I was like wtf? when i started it back up i almost stalled again, cause of the way the clutch was engaging

my car was really acting up yesterday, but then when i drove it later on that day it was fine.

Also, how do i know how much time i have untill the clutch and flywheel crap out on me? Last thing i need is to break down, get it towed home, then get set back even MORE money

im trying to limit my driving to just school and back

personally, if it started acting like that on me, i would stop driving it. it will take a few hours to change the clutch with a buddy, and they only cost 175 for a stocker. just do it before you need to spend another 200 on a flywheel.

thats $175 that i dont have lol, so i gotta drive my car to work, which is either a good thing or a bad thing depending on how long my clutch will last me

i was origionally wondering if i should get an OEM replacment, or save up and get a stage 1, but my clutch is getting pretty bad so im just gonna get the OEM clutch so i can get it asap

what are things i can do to avoid putting extra wear on the clutch for the time being that i have to drive with it slipping?

Does it matter what rpm im at as long as i still shift it smoothly without slipping? or does the clutch and flywheel spinning around faster mean extra wear?

Does it matter how much i shift as long as they are smooth and at low rpm? or should i try to avoid shifting from 1st to 2nd in a parking lot that im going slow in, and just staying in 1st gear?

what im gonna try to do when i leave school is just wait untill everyone leaves and the line goes away, so i can just drive right out, instead of having to keep inching forward and probably putting a lot of wear on my clutch

yeah, the less you engage the clutch the better. also dont lug your engine (low rpms with lots of load, ie, hills). dont dump your clutch, and try not to park on too many hills where you will need to slip the clutch hard so as not to roll backwards, use the ebrake.

i live in florida, so hills arent a problem. I park on my driveway if i dont park in my garage, but to get out im rolling down anyways, so thats not a problem.

so dont even accelerate from 40-45 in 5th gear? just leave it in 4th untill im at the exact speed i want to be?

also, does engaging the clutch to put it in netural do anything? or is it only when its catching a new gear?

SketchyRollin564 wrote:i live in florida, so hills arent a problem. I park on my driveway if i dont park in my garage, but to get out im rolling down anyways, so thats not a problem.

so dont even accelerate from 40-45 in 5th gear? just leave it in 4th untill im at the exact speed i want to be?

also, does engaging the clutch to put it in netural do anything? or is it only when its catching a new gear?

no, engaging it in neutral doesnt put wear on it, because its only attaching to the flywheel, with no pressure on it from the trans. yes, stay in fourth until you reach your cruising speed, then hit overdrive.

So how long would you say i have untill my clutch craps out? i really dont want to have my car break down on me and get it towed, so how do i know how much longer i have untill it goes out?

edit:since im so urgent to get this clutch, heres the two options im looking into1. buying a used clutch thats still in ok condition from a local2. getting one of these ebay clutches, which idk if i should trust

heres the two im looking at:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVWh ... rs...ZWDVW

there both stage 1, and both suprisingly cheap, so idk what to expect from them. Then again, it cant be worse then my torn to **** OEM clutch i have on right now

and this is another one im looking at, but im guessing the stage one from the ebay brand is as strong as an OEM spec from a real brand name? This ones an OEM from an ebay brand...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW

another brandhttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ZWDVW

Or is it a bad idea to get any of these?
Modified by SketchyRollin564 at 12:15 PM 9/8/2008

im in the same situation you are in too. But if i were you i wouldnt go with anything other than what ppl have said are good. Like exedy, or ATC, i read something about a dual friction centerforce that was good. But i would look at spending atleast 200 for a clutch that is good. otherwise i think youll be slipping right after the break in period, so ive read

I know you will get that response for the F1, as for the others, idk.

Herse another thing interesting...

i did the diagnostic test on this page http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch2.htm

Quote »Clutch Diagnostic Test

If you find that your clutch has failed, here is an at-home diagnostic test that anyone can perform:

Start your car, set the parking break, and put the car in neutral.

With your car idling, listen for a growling noise without pushing the clutch in.

If you hear something, it's most likely a problem with the transmission.

If you don't hear a noise, proceed to step three.

With the car still in neutral, begin to push the clutch and listen for noise. If you hear a chirping noise as you press, it's most likely the clutch release, or throw-out bearing. If you don't hear a noise, proceed to step four.

Push the clutch all the way to the floor. If you hear a squealing noise, it's probably the pilot bearing or bushing.

If you don't hear any noise during these four steps, then your problem is probably not the clutch. If you hear the noise at idle and it goes away when the clutch is pressed, it may be an issue in the contact point between the fork and pivot ball.[/quote]Now i did all of those, both with the door open and closed, and my results

no growling noise in idle,no squealing noise when clutch is held all the way inand no chirping noise while pushing in the clutch, BUT

as i push the clutch in and out, i hear a squeak. But, its been like that since i bought the car, and the clutch didnt slip when i first bought it.

So i always figured the noise was from the spring in the clutch pedal, but then i noticed i heard the noise when the door was open, but not when the door was closed, so its coming from underneath the car, and not inside

maybe by chirp they meant squeak?

if thats the case, then it looks like my throwout bearing is bad. I dont really know what that is, but does that mean i only need to replace the throwout bearing, or should i just get a whole new clutch kit? reason im asking is cause money is REALLY tight, so i wanna be able to afford this as soon as possible, which is why im considering ebay clutches

i cant tell you how much longer it will last without feeling it. btw, that troubleshoot list is for a clutch noise, not slipping. slipping is the sign of the clutch disc wearing out and/or glazing over. youre bearings could be top notch, and your clutch could still wear out. i would avoid all the cheap XTD/ebay brands. either get a nice name brand upgrade, or a cheap oem style one from local parts store. be sure to change all the bearings too. doing it now will be cheaper than getting it towed later and doing it or paying a shop to do it. just do it.

trust me, i want to do it, but i have no money, which is why im trying to find the cheapest way possible, so i can do it as soon as possible

on a local forum sombody is saying i can get a clutch from discount auto for like $30, but its just the disk. How do i know if its the disk thats bad and not the throwout bearing or anything?

also, how do i know if my bearings are bad or anything?

at first it was just slipping, but then when for that little 5 min period it was making funny noises and it was shaking when i was letting out of the clutch to start moving in 1st after it stalled that one time

after that it was acting fine again, just with a weak feel of the clutch

i havnt driven it since yesterday (stayed home from school today), and i dont plan on driving it untill i have to go to school tommarow. Luckilly its only like a mile away, then again, if i get caught up in traffic, its stop and go from 0-5 mph once i get close to the school (which is right after i turn out from my street and go down the road)

also, my friend just got a coupe today and he said it came with another clutch or somthing and he could give me the old one

is that a dumb idea/waste of time? or should it be good for temporary
Modified by SketchyRollin564 at 1:29 PM 9/8/2008

SketchyRollin564 wrote:trust me, i want to do it, but i have no money, which is why im trying to find the cheapest way possible, so i can do it as soon as possible

on a local forum sombody is saying i can get a clutch from discount auto for like $30, but its just the disk. How do i know if its the disk thats bad and not the throwout bearing or anything?

pull the tranny if you want to see the minimum parts you can get away with. you may be able to just use a disc.

i wouldnt know what to look for when i pull the tranny

again lol i dont know much about cars, and this is gonna be my first time dealing with any of this. I wouldnt be suprised if when i took my clutch out it was in pieces

SketchyRollin564 wrote:i wouldnt know what to look for when i pull the tranny

again lol i dont know much about cars, and this is gonna be my first time dealing with any of this. I wouldnt be suprised if when i took my clutch out it was in pieces

then do it all once. its gonna cost some bucks, but it wont be half-***'d. do you have any buddies that have done clutches before? its not a super easy process, its time consuming, requires some special tools, and is not something you want to redo as soon as youre done because its making horrible noises. do it once, do it right.