I have been working out the dome light function, because $250 just for the parts is ridiculous when I can build the equivalent for less than 20 bucks.

I got the factory install guide, and the nissan footwell lights only tap 3 wires, all from the bcm.
The install guide doesnt say what everything does, but I have it figured out!

BCM #63 brown : Domelight Supervision Wire (-)
BCM #11 dark blue: ignition acc or on
BCM #57 light green: interior +12v

So, what I have right now is #57 tired to my led +, #63 goes to a dpdt center off toggle which I put in an empty slot by the dimmer/mirror controls. I picked that switch because it allows me to use one switch position for always on, and the other to door, plus the center off, so I have pretty much any setup I want! I did not use #11, I dont really see why I care about that one.

I built everything from scratch using wire, component board, leds, quick connects, project enclosure. So far I only have the drivers side done, but I made the enclosure modular so I can just plug in each set of lights as I finish them here and there. The led boards Im making could be a bit brighter, but its the door/dome function Im proud of.


The BCM is behind the glovebox.



I say bottom/front because its on the bottom when the plug is plugged in, and in the front when its not! sorry I didnt take a pic before I modded it. Its not the greatest job Ive ever done, but its hard for a big guy like me to work up under the dash. I try though! Originally I was using taps, but its kind of a tight spot, so solder and tape has to do.



This is where the factory kit says to put the ground. The door function uses the brown wire, but I wanted to be able to have them always on so I put one here as well.



I saw someone else say they ran the wires across the front in a grove, this is the other option.



I wanted to use an illuminated rocker switch, but I could not find one with 3 positions, so then I considered using 2 rockers, one for on/off and one for door/no door. I went with this one and dremeled out the spacer so I had room inside for stuff. I may go back at some point and dremel out holes and illuminate so you can be labeled



At this point the enclosure is fairly unnecessary, however, I did it for 2 reasons, it allows me to make the setup modular, so all I have to do is make new led boards down the road and plug them in. It also gives me a place to house an audio sensor, because I am very tempted to make it sound reactive, just for fun.



This big box fits perfectly up by the fusebox with no issues. I need to go back and finish adding plugs...


This little guy only cost about 3 bucks to make, and it looks pretty good when on.


I extended the circuit to include all the extra dash lights I added


and all the vents


and finally the cup holders, from above


Well that was fun, I hope this helps somebody!

Has anyone seen a sound reactive module by itself, or just as part of a plug and play light unit?

Hey could you post a picture of how you wired the switch? I see where to splice into the BCM wires, but I have no clue how to configure the wires on the 3-Way switch. Thanks!

I will see what I can do! It was pretty simple, if i remember correctly, a dpdt switch has 6 legs, I think I only used 3, all one 1 side... its been a while, but that sounds right. the outer legs act as inputs for the ground, and the center passes on one of those 2(or neither in the case of off) along to the lights. If you know how to check continuity, check the setup I just described...

if that doesnt work for ya let me know ill see if i can get back in there

jolyrojr wrote:Has anyone seen a sound reactive module by itself, or just as part of a plug and play light unit?

you could maybe try something with this http://www.xoxide.com/cocasoackit.html
or you can build your own and get a project box.http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/p ... mber=C4738

I think I understand what your saying, but if its not gonna be too much trouble do you think you could get back in there and snap a few pictures? Also, do you have to have the LED bars wired into a module, or can you wire everything directly into the switch? Cause I was just wanting to do a direct wire path from the BCM to the switch to the LED bars. (Theres only gonna be 2 bars, each requiring 12 volts DC)

Sargeant Lisp wrote:I think I understand what your saying, but if its not gonna be too much trouble do you think you could get back in there and snap a few pictures? Also, do you have to have the LED bars wired into a module, or can you wire everything directly into the switch? Cause I was just wanting to do a direct wire path from the BCM to the switch to the LED bars. (Theres only gonna be 2 bars, each requiring 12 volts DC)

Hey sorry, I havent been around, I dont know if you will get notifications that I responded, a year later, but...

By module do you mean the enclosure I made for the board? I made that so I can expand just by plugging in the wires to the box which has several extra available plugs and everything still works off the same control switch, and because I wanted a place to put the sound activation module if I ever get one. All you need is a path for current to flow though.

i am soooooooooo jelly that your versa is six speed. -____________-

But that is cool, i like how the lights are hooked up to go on whenever the dome light goes on. I'm going to have to try that this week

i have a question. its hooked up to turn on when the doors are opened right? if you set the dome light to off, will the leds still turn on?