I could not find the green/black wire that locks out the transmission control computer, that connector was not on my a/t harness. I guess I'll just take the TCM out and reflash the ECU without automatic. I'm going to hook up the reverse lights, anyone remember off the top of your head which wires control that? I'm gonna try and find the wiring diagram and figure it out myself if nobody remembers. lol!

subtle_driver wrote:I could not find the green/black wire that locks out the transmission control computer, that connector was not on my a/t harness. I guess I'll just take the TCM out and reflash the ECU without automatic. I'm going to hook up the reverse lights, anyone remember off the top of your head which wires control that? I'm gonna try and find the wiring diagram and figure it out myself if nobody remembers. lol!

The wires must be a different color on the other side of the plug. You have all five plugs there, two red and three grey. You can follow the pattern in a circle, (1)Big red, (2)little red, (3) medium grey, (4) Small grey plug you want, (5) big grey, and back around. Its the smallest grey plug, two wire grey plug, and you're done.

Hey Subtle.

Looking good. It's nice having all the pictures...although, the sandwich pic did make me hungry. :P

Looks like it's pretty close to being there.

-Chris

DeatschWerks wrote:Hey Subtle.

Looking good. It's nice having all the pictures...although, the sandwich pic did make me hungry. :P

Looks like it's pretty close to being there.

-Chris

Thanks! I had very little to work with because the previous 5-speed threads didn't have enough info or pictures.

I have been driving this car a lot, I put down 1,500 miles since the completion and haven't had a single problem.

I even autocrossed it and got within 3 seconds of a gutted miata in my class. Yes, I was in the same class as a miata. I had 4 passengers in the car too.

Does anyone know where i can find some Beefier sway bars, and subframe bushings?
I also need a bigger radiator!

Here is a video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ifTVnE0N_dg

Here is a link with some pictures: http://sdclubracing.com/index.php?optio ... 38&id=2056

http://sdclubracing.com/index.php?optio ... 38&id=2099

Some dyno results after the 5-speed swap.


my 1st baseline was 233hp 249tq, at the wheels

Then tuned it with a jim wolf filter.
257hp 280 tq max with automatic.

now it is 280hp 300tq, at the wheels with that same tune with a stick shift.
23hp increase with just the transmission.


Mods:
*removed stock rear muffler
*converted to 4,500cfm Lincoln MK8 electric fan,
*converted to Custom z32 5-speed with lighened z32 twin turbo flywheel and stage 3 pressure plate with stage 1 disk.
*Jim Wolf Pop Charger
*E-mance.com tune
*(note) stock 1.9 inch dual piping with 2 cats.

Future mods:
*Remove cats, and make a custom 2.5" header-back exhaust system.
*Further tune the ecu, this time extend the vvt intake came redard to stay on longer, maximize the AFRs and Timing maps.

Goal 300hp to the wheels with a stock engine.

I mean no disrespect because you did a beautiful job but some of the things you did do not add horse power.

According to some of the old posts In read from NICO removing the OEM exhaust or any part of it and adding the loudest exhaust known to man will only leave you with a 10 HP Max gain.

Changing the OEM air intake design will only cost you horsepower (HP) in the real world, Dyno's are not a measurement of true power. The cone filters allow air that is heated by the engine to pass through it. Where as the OEM design is the best designed Cold Air Intake I have ever seen. Seriously take the cover that covers the hood latch and windshield washer fluid container. Its in the center of the two headlight covers.

The OEM clutch fan was very efficient and only cost a couple of horse power Max though the RPM band. at Sixty nine hundred RPMs the OEM cltuch fan costs you 3 HP. But adding a electric fan only shifts where the power drag comes from and that is the alternator. So a electric fan will only do one useful thing which is allow you more space to work in that area.

E-Mance, The company is worse than useless and I hope bad things happen to the owner. I would get rid of that tune and put a real performance tune in like a NICO ECU.

Removing the cats is also useless as they were designed for the most performance while doing their job correctly.

Again I mean no disrespect but at the same time I didn't know if you knew this or not.

Infinitiguy19 wrote:I mean no disrespect because you did a beautiful job but some of the things you did do not add horse power.

According to some of the old posts In read from NICO removing the OEM exhaust or any part of it and adding the loudest exhaust known to man will only leave you with a 10 HP Max gain.

Changing the OEM air intake design will only cost you horsepower (HP) in the real world, Dyno's are not a measurement of true power. The cone filters allow air that is heated by the engine to pass through it. Where as the OEM design is the best designed Cold Air Intake I have ever seen. Seriously take the cover that covers the hood latch and windshield washer fluid container. Its in the center of the two headlight covers.

The OEM clutch fan was very efficient and only cost a couple of horse power Max though the RPM band. at Sixty nine hundred RPMs the OEM cltuch fan costs you 3 HP. But adding a electric fan only shifts where the power drag comes from and that is the alternator. So a electric fan will only do one useful thing which is allow you more space to work in that area.

E-Mance, The company is worse than useless and I hope bad things happen to the owner. I would get rid of that tune and put a real performance tune in like a NICO ECU.

Removing the cats is also useless as they were designed for the most performance while doing their job correctly.

Again I mean no disrespect but at the same time I didn't know if you knew this or not.

Thank you for your information, I didn't know this, and apparently the car and the dyno doesn't either.

If you want to race with your stock intake and stock fan and stock exhaust with the cat's let me know. I'm running E-mance tune in my car and I LOVE IT! I ran E-mance tunes for 4 years without a problem.

On average, removing cats on many v8 vehicles frees up anywhere from 8ish, to 30ish hp on a stock motor. from what I've seen in person.
Let's see how much more power the VH45DE will make when I remove the cats shall we?
According to your post reading, and my real-world experience you are going to be surprised. BTW, did The Infiniti Indy car team use catalytic converters on their Indy car?

BTW, Can you show me a dyno sheet that shows the 3hp increase from the fan removal?
When the stock fan is in full lock what happens to your power?
When my 4,500 CFM electric fan is off, when I'm drag racing, or Autocrossing, or Drifting it doesn't rob any power from the Alternator drag. Only when I'm stuck in traffic with the A/C on full blast does the fan turn on.

I also Love my Jim wolf pop-charger! The stock air box is not to my liking, I want to suck all that hot air into my engine! For some reason, it makes more power that way. I guess I'll keep it. I have seen many factory air filters make more power than the cone filters and intakes, but this one doesn't. I know what it looks like, I removed the ram air tubes long ago to make room for my transmission cooler.

Too bad the Automatic Factory transmission is so heavy and slows the car down so much. I had to remove that and install a more efficient manual transmission. and a stronger and lighter once piece drive-shaft. I guess the factory isn't thinking about performance all the time, they may be thinking about cost and comfort. Think about the 2nd gear start, is that an efficient design from the Infiniti Engineers? I hate to say this, but my car is ugly when i look at it sometimes, But I love the surprised looks on mustang driver and Bmw drivers when I pass them up. I think this car is not perfect, but I still love it!

I'm glad I never listened to the naysayers and know-it-alls on this forum. Even tho my modifications are not to your liking, at least I'm giving you some entertainment, you can point and say, "you're doing it wrong" all you want. LOL!

BTW, do you think its possible to make 400hp and 500 ft lbs of tq at the crank with a stock internal ka24de from a 240sx with 200,000 miles? We'll my friends at e-mance helped me make this possible. And I spent less than $1,500 on the total project including the car. I guess I should stop using Cone filters and removing the cats. http://sdclubracing.com/index.php?optio ... =19&id=458

subtle_driver wrote:I want to suck all that hot air into my engine! For some reason, it makes more power that way. I guess I'll keep it.

Is this hood-up dyno power, or real world hood-down driving? A lot of intake mods have looked very promising with the hood up and a big fan blowing into the car's face... but when the hood is down it's a different story. If your Q is really making more power with a pop charger, it would be the first.

That said, what really matters is that you're happy with it - and your M/T conversion is a thing of beauty!

Heath

All that time and $$$$ invested, and yet grandma can still spank you in her new automatic v6 Camry/Accord/Altima all day long......and while enjoying the comfort and smooth quiet riding vehicle that actually conforms to emissions laws!!!!!!!

subtle_driver wrote:

Infinitiguy19 wrote:I mean no disrespect because you did a beautiful job but some of the things you did do not add horse power.

According to some of the old posts In read from NICO removing the OEM exhaust or any part of it and adding the loudest exhaust known to man will only leave you with a 10 HP Max gain.

Changing the OEM air intake design will only cost you horsepower (HP) in the real world, Dyno's are not a measurement of true power. The cone filters allow air that is heated by the engine to pass through it. Where as the OEM design is the best designed Cold Air Intake I have ever seen. Seriously take the cover that covers the hood latch and windshield washer fluid container. Its in the center of the two headlight covers.

The OEM clutch fan was very efficient and only cost a couple of horse power Max though the RPM band. at Sixty nine hundred RPMs the OEM cltuch fan costs you 3 HP. But adding a electric fan only shifts where the power drag comes from and that is the alternator. So a electric fan will only do one useful thing which is allow you more space to work in that area.

E-Mance, The company is worse than useless and I hope bad things happen to the owner. I would get rid of that tune and put a real performance tune in like a NICO ECU.

Removing the cats is also useless as they were designed for the most performance while doing their job correctly.

Again I mean no disrespect but at the same time I didn't know if you knew this or not.

Thank you for your information, I didn't know this, and apparently the car and the dyno doesn't either.

If you want to race with your stock intake and stock fan and stock exhaust with the cat's let me know. I'm running E-mance tune in my car and I LOVE IT! I ran E-mance tunes for 4 years without a problem.

On average, removing cats on many v8 vehicles frees up anywhere from 8ish, to 30ish hp on a stock motor. from what I've seen in person.
Let's see how much more power the VH45DE will make when I remove the cats shall we?
According to your post reading, and my real-world experience you are going to be surprised. BTW, did The Infiniti Indy car team use catalytic converters on their Indy car?

BTW, Can you show me a dyno sheet that shows the 3hp increase from the fan removal?
When the stock fan is in full lock what happens to your power?
When my 4,500 CFM electric fan is off, when I'm drag racing, or Autocrossing, or Drifting it doesn't rob any power from the Alternator drag. Only when I'm stuck in traffic with the A/C on full blast does the fan turn on.

I also Love my Jim wolf pop-charger! The stock air box is not to my liking, I want to suck all that hot air into my engine! For some reason, it makes more power that way. I guess I'll keep it. I have seen many factory air filters make more power than the cone filters and intakes, but this one doesn't. I know what it looks like, I removed the ram air tubes long ago to make room for my transmission cooler.

Too bad the Automatic Factory transmission is so heavy and slows the car down so much. I had to remove that and install a more efficient manual transmission. and a stronger and lighter once piece drive-shaft. I guess the factory isn't thinking about performance all the time, they may be thinking about cost and comfort. Think about the 2nd gear start, is that an efficient design from the Infiniti Engineers? I hate to say this, but my car is ugly when i look at it sometimes, But I love the surprised looks on mustang driver and Bmw drivers when I pass them up. I think this car is not perfect, but I still love it!

I'm glad I never listened to the naysayers and know-it-alls on this forum. Even tho my modifications are not to your liking, at least I'm giving you some entertainment, you can point and say, "you're doing it wrong" all you want. LOL!

BTW, do you think its possible to make 400hp and 500 ft lbs of tq at the crank with a stock internal ka24de from a 240sx with 200,000 miles? We'll my friends at e-mance helped me make this possible. And I spent less than $1,500 on the total project including the car. I guess I should stop using Cone filters and removing the cats. http://sdclubracing.com/index.php?optio ... =19&id=458

When your ready to learn please let me know as I don't like wasting time on people who refuse to see the truth. And as you saw I was as kind as could be to you while still stating the truth.

The truth is, I like my intake and my car the way it is.

The 2011 v6 Camry with all the trimmings and the v6 accord cannot keep up with my Q45 at all, in theory, underpowered and heavy. But the Altima would be a good race, perhaps taking the win (Untill the Altima's speed limiter kicks in). But that will change, I'm deciding on making a custom Turbo setup, or Just a set of stage-5 cams, or Nitrous. I haven't made a turbo kit for a v8 yet. The cramped engine bay will make it difficult for topmount or front mount. I may have to settle for a twin T4 setup. I prefer a single t56 or larger.

My Q45 cost me less than $2,000 with the 5-speed and the mods. How much was that Honda accord? $31,000.... oh.

My car is at this moment fully conforming to emissions laws, it is exempt.

Have you seen my Lincoln fan setup? fits perfectly and looks stock. But If I post pics, I'm gonna get flamed again.

Anyways, tomorrow the oil pan comes off, and I remove the possible bits of timing chain guide, and bang out the dent in the pan. I'm thinking of suspending the engine with my support bar and pull the subframe. any other options?

Also, does anyone make a urethane engine mount for this car, or something that works?

Ok I changed the title of the thread so people can find it in search a little easier.

I also wanted to see if anyone here has wired up the reverse lights after doing a manual transmission swap and how you did it! I'm hurting my brain looking at all the wiring diagrams.

The reverse lamps are very simple as a matter of fact I nearly have the wiring diagram memorized (1990-1993).

The power comes from the top most right fuse (10Amp) the wire color is Green with a Orange stripe (G/OR).
Then that goes to the inhibitor switch (G208) to the #3 pin (G/OR).
From the inhibitor switch Pin #5 to the reverse lamps the wire color changes to Red (R) That wire is connected to the tail harness with connectors (M219) and (T3) and that red wire (power) branches to both reverse lights (T20) and (T26) (2 Pin connectors with Red (R) and Black (B) wires.
The reverse lights use two grounds (M1) and (T15). (M1) is located near where your transmission Control Unit (TCU) used to be. (T15) is behind the left trunk trim panel which has to be removed to get to it if needed, Thats on the OEM "tire jack".

Hope this helps.

So your biggest issue is wiring a switch when you put the Q in reverse.

thank you for that tidbit, I'll work on it this week!

I am hoping to get some custom urethane mounts made and installed before the autocross race this weekend.

Can you tell me exactly how long your driveshaft is? I want to order a driveshaft before I do the swap so I dont have to swap and then measure and then wait around for one with the car down. Im using the mazworx trans adapter so my driveshaft should be the same length.
thanks!

Mine was lengthened 6 inches.. I only have 1/4 inch difference from you so you should be good..

Great thanks Wes, im going to pick up an ecu from you as soon as I get my 91-93 ecu in the mail.

Great job/info subtle. Anyone looking to see a sweet q build check him out on Instagram @subtledriver.

haha thanks man, did you see my current build log? go on there and post. nobody seems to care here.