INFAMOUS FUEL INJECTOR PROBLEM...

[EZ-300zx]

well i finally found a fuel injector at a somewhat local salvage yard called foreign auto salvage. They want $40 for the injector and he guarantees for it to be in working order. I think that its a 90-93 because i called for body parts before and he said he had two 90 models. I pretty much just want to know if there is anyway to use the 94-96 injectors in a 90. I think one type of connector is oval and mine is square.... but just in case could i use the 94-96 harness maybe by splicing? Oh yeah the second time i called today a lady and answered and i knew that she wasn't going to know about it but i asked her anyway. Needless to say she was a biatchhhhh!! rude as hell. sigh i should have known... Anyway thanks

[John1006]

Ill sell you a 90-93 N/A injector for $20 shipped

[300freekzx]

from what I understand the injectors are different from 90-93 to 94-96

[Zwicked]

You can't use the newer style injectors without other things being done. The fuel rails and connectors are different. Having said that, you also have to change either the lower intake manifold to accept the new style fuel rail, or buy an after market fuel rail, or injectors/adapter kit from Deutschwerks.

I believe in the NA they used the newer style injectors one model year before the turbo car, so get one from a 1990 - 93 if you are getting it from a junk yard and make sure it's from a non-turbo as they are different.

Also, test the injector before you install it to make sure it's good and make sure to buy new o-rings.

[AndyZ32]

I just got done having to replacing the middle fuel injectors in my Z. I got brand new ones from a local shop for $89 a piece. I was told they offer three different types depending on which ones your Z has and are classified by color - Blue, Black, and Red. I have a 93N/A and was running the Red injectors.

[EZ-300zx]

thanks alot everybody for your posts. I went today and picked it up. it came out of a 90 model same as mine, color red same as mine also. Now i have another problem. i switch my hoses to silicon the other day when i was trying to install my cold air intake piping(needless to say, don't get your intake from ebay unless your sure it is going to fit and it comes from a reputable company) the piping didn't fit so figured i would at least use the less restrictive silicon hoses. Well after i put them on and did all the cutting on the hoses, i took it for a little test drive to see of any improvement. Anyway i drove down the road and on the way back the rpm needle went completely dead and after a second or two my z turned off by itself. Somehow it came back on as i was rolling and kinda went back to its same old messed up fuel injector self and i thought nothing about it until today when i was on the way to the salvage yard to pick up my injector. It did the same thing again and it took some pedal patting and tlc to get it cranked again. After i left the salvage yard and was about halfway home it did the same thing again and shut off. This time it wouldn't start at all and i had to be towed about 30 miles back to my house (girlfriends step dad and mom). Immediately i started think my fuel pump was bad but when i got home i let it set for a couple hour and when i went to jump start it (all the cranking wore down my battery) it cranked up. so now im at a loss? i guess it still could be my fuel pump maybe it just got hot? OH yeah HOW DO YOU TEST INJECTORS OUT OF THE CAR??? THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR MINUTES OF TIME IN READING THIS.

[valkyie]

EZ, I am having the same problem with my 1990 NA as well. I have been having this problem for a while and I am still trying to figure it out. My Z will either be rolling and just shuts off or parked idling for around twenty minutes then it will just shut off. I try to restart it and I can't until a few hours later. Starts up fine after setting a few hours. So far I have cleaned everything from the air box to the back of the plenum. I replaced the PTU and MAFS. I also too thought I had a bad fuel pump but I had plenty of fuel pressure at the lines.

I thought it was a vacuum problems so I checked all my lines , cleaned the FIAV and the AAV next to it. My mechanic is at a lost as I am too. The car will just shut off. At first I had a surging idle with hesitation. But I cleaned a lot of things up and now it idles fine. For the past two weeks the car has been running fine and I let it get nice and hot and it runs good now. My car has done this in the past run funny for a few weeks and for some time act normal. I wonder if changing in altitudes have any effect on the ECU? My search to find out what is wrong with my car lead me here. But will one or two bad injectors cut the engine off? I figured it would make the car run ruff. Maybe the car is picking up some bad signal from a sensor and going into safe mode.

I checked my codes and I am getting 42 and 34. 42 is for fuel temperature sensor and 34 is for the knock sensor. I wonder what is the knock sensor safe mode for a NA Z. I have a used ecu on the way and I am going to test it in the car to see how my car acts. I ran into a guy at my local mechanic shop and he told me builds imports as a hobby. Also he is a army motor sergeant and told me that it not a vacuum issue if all six injectors are cutting of at the same time and told me to swap ECUs. So I have one on the way anyway so I will see what happens.

Everything that I do I will get track of just incase you need some info and I hope I can hit you up for info as well. Good luck and let me know how the car runs after you drop in that new injector.I had this problem with the car before a engine swap it was doing the same thing. Cuts off and then takes a few hours to start up. With the swap I figured the problem would be solved but I was mistaken. Maybe the shop I went to did not replace my engine at all. LOL . So either they used the same sensors being my old sensor on the original engine might have been bad, I have a bad wire harness, or its in the ECU. If I can figure out where to unplug the security system then I would do it just to rule the factory system out. This is a ghost within the Z and I tired of it.
Modified by valkyie at 9:01 AM 4/30/2009

[meanshyguy]

What is the normal ressistance (Ohms) on the injectors?

[mlov(NJ)]

What is the normal ressistance (Ohms) on the injectors?

10-14 ohms http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/159859.html

[carcrazyguy]

1. i was trying to install my cold air intake piping(needless to say, don't get your intake from ebay unless your sure it is going to fit and it comes from a reputable company) the piping didn't fit so figured i would at least use the less restrictive silicon hoses.

2. Well after i put them on and did all the cutting on the hoses, i took it for a little test drive to see of any improvement. Anyway i drove down the road and on the way back the rpm needle went completely dead and after a second or two my z turned off by itself. Somehow it came back on as i was rolling and kinda went back to its same old messed up fuel injector self and i thought nothing about it until today when i was on the way to the salvage yard to pick up my injector. It did the same thing again and it took some pedal patting and tlc to get it cranked again. After i left the salvage yard and was about halfway home it did the same thing again and shut off. This time it wouldn't start at all and i had to be towed about 30 miles back to my house (girlfriends step dad and mom).

3. Immediately i started think my fuel pump was bad but when i got home i let it set for a couple hour and when i went to jump start it (all the cranking wore down my battery) it cranked up. so now im at a loss? i guess it still could be my fuel pump maybe it just got hot? OH yeah

4. HOW DO YOU TEST INJECTORS OUT OF THE CAR??? THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR MINUTES OF TIME IN READING THIS.

1. Let me soapbox a little. Why even waste your money on a CAI for an NA. If the car is not fast enough for you dead stock, you so have the wrong car. Anyway, adding CAI's tends to cause turbulence issues, often leads to MAF failure, and most interestingly - dyno results actually show they to loose power in many places in the powerband..and any gains are near nothing. And I am not even speaking of an Ebay version, yet the real ones that cost big bucks. But the home made stuff on Ebay is usually nothing more than a way for someone to make money on people's vulnerability, IMO.

2. Any improvement was in your head. But that goes a long way for some people...for example, loud exhausts, etc.

3. I would bet it was something you did...or maybe something loose. Fuel pumps rarely just die. They will whine for a while (sometimes years) or be erratic for long periods of time before just quitting.

4. Simply remove the injector connectors and test resistance at the injector pins. Do the same thing if off car. For that matter, how did you even know you had a bad injector in the first place if you didn't do this procedure?

[valkyie]

Carcrazyguy, I am having the same problem with my Z. Sometimes it just dies and can't start it back up for hours. One fuel injector is not going to turn the car off. I figure its either in the wires being a bad connection or the ECU is acting up. I just contact a 350z owner that stated he had the same problem and it turned out to be a loose connection on the fuse box. So I am a lost as to what is the problem but I know its not on the engine it in the car.

[carcrazyguy]

1. I am having the same problem with my Z. Sometimes it just dies and can't start it back up for hours. One fuel injector is not going to turn the car off. 2. I figure its either in the wires being a bad connection or the ECU is acting up.

1. Yes, this is true. I have had so many go out, one at a time on the Q45. It just makes the car run shaky.2. Virtually any Z32 will have corroded injector connectors, and many may have a short somewhere in the PTU wiring. Look at these things first.

[monkeynutz10]

Carcrazyguy, I am having the same problem with my Z. Sometimes it just dies and can't start it back up for hours. One fuel injector is not going to turn the car off. I figure its either in the wires being a bad connection or the ECU is acting up. I just contact a 350z owner that stated he had the same problem and it turned out to be a loose connection on the fuse box. So I am a lost as to what is the problem but I know its not on the engine it in the car.

Did you check the fuel filter?...... sediment can build up then clog the opening and then in if you let it sit and it starts the sediment had settled in the bottom of the filter.

[valkyie]

I did not think about that and will address that. Can the fuel filter be cleaned or do I have to buy another one? I was also thinking maybe the fuel pump is overheating and shutting off? I do get a code 42 which is fuel temperature sensor/circuit.

[monkeynutz10]

i would just buy another one if it was me... and idk if it would just overheat because they just dont i thought unless something was wrong with it and then it wouldnt even start in the first place or it would make a whine....

[oninous]

Does your car have a Fuel Pump Controller hidden behind the driver backseat area? Sounds like the problem I had when mine was going out. Exactly like it. Bypassed the stupid thing 3 years ago by grounding one connector to the body. Haven't had a problem since. Pretty good 30 cent fix.

[budget300zx]

John1006 do you still have any 90-93 na injectors for sale for 20 shipped? im in need of a single

[ThisIsSparTTa]

Both of you just necro'd this 5 year old thread hard.

[budget300zx]

DOH!!!