Like the title says, this is the I30 tach into the s13 cluster. This conversion uses the I30's V6 tach so you can have accurate rpm's with a 6 cylinder engine! It looks more clean and modern than the J30 conversion IMO. Lots of pics and descriptions for you to do it yourself.****requires cutting, soldering, and drilling****I did this in about an hour and I had to pioneer it. It's pretty simple.DISCLAIMER: Not responsible if you want to copy my awesom-o-ness!

Start with I30 cluster and take out the tachometer.

Three screws in the back, couldn't be more simple.

Cut about a 1/2" off the bottom. Cut piece should look like this...

After you take the s13's old tach & clock out do some trimming on the inside.*A pair of needle nose pliers are great to just break it out*

Then take the I30's tach and thread the 3 mounting screws in evenly.Put lots of nail polish on the top of the screws and sit it down into the cluster to mark the holes you have to drill. (clever)

After drilling test fit it and make some wires with eye crimp-on ends.*Top left is ignition**Bottom left is ground**Top right is tach signal*Also, note that the plastic/copper was cut out around drilled holes.

Make note of the yellow line and circles! CONNECT THESE! This is where the ignition wire needs to go (top left, use an eye crimp and just put it under the screw.)The black ground wire (bottom left) needs 3 eye crimps. Its easy to just follow the copper in the plastic or just look at this picture.If you see where the plug hole is cut into you will see that you also have to shave that part of the connector off also. This is OK because these wires can be relocated (see next step)

This step require soldering in 2 places...The 1st is the middle contact. ILL+You need to solder in a wire onto the resistor before it goes in. there is already a solder there so you can just heat it up and stick a wire in.The 2nd is the bottom contact. HICAS, don't know if its needed but i did it anyway.You need to solder a wire onto the copper pad before it go's under the plastic. (I did this after I took the pic, sorry)The top contact is TAM (tachometer signal) just for your curiosity.These 3 wires (TAM, ILL+, and HICAS) need to be wired into the wires that used to be in the connector before cutting it to fit the new tachometer's chip board.

OK, you got the wiring down now back to fitment.Note the hole I drilled into the bottom of the tach, this allows the gauge face to be flush with the black cover. Just take the tach out and fit it onto the bezel to get the hole's position.Also note the yellow pieces on the left and right. They are parts of a plastic squeegee I cut up to make sure the gauge sits flush in the cluster and doesn't droop.

You may also have to trim the line on the back of the bezel too.

Snap the bezel on and make sure there isn't a huge gap here.

And finally, this is what the finished product looks like.The thirst buster cup is from circle K was from the wife and I's custom ice coffee, act like its not there!

I don't have any pics of it lit up at night but when I do I'll post them up. Comments Please P.S. Don't pay attention to the odometer either. It's just a coincidence that the last 3 digits are 666. I'm not evil, really, I'm not!

*edit* fixed picture issues, sorry, I was sorting them.

Modified by Fibre guy at 9:53 PM 8/6/2009
Modified by Fibre guy at 11:52 AM 8/7/2009

AWESOME!

It almost looks OEM. Definitely a great option for those with rb swaps. Sure beats sending out your cluster!

Good job! Somebody get this man a custom title.

I forgot about the custom title thing... Maybe "Angry Ducky" or something...

This is much simpler and retains a 100% oem look.

But still a good write up and good idea.

http://www.dakotadigital.com/i...7.htm

Pretty Awesome!

kouki munster wrote:This is much simpler and retains a 100% oem look.

Total for this gauge at the local U-pull-it was 15$

Thanks for the positive replies guys. First write up.

I like a lot!

looks effin good thats for sure but i would mourn the loss of the clock on a daily basis.gotta have a clock somewhere in the car...least thats me.

My stereo head unit has a clock on all the time so it doesn't get to me. But maybe I should extend the writeup to add the clock back in, its possible.

On a side note, who do I talk to for a custom title?

I love this write up! How did you ever get the idea to even use this tach? Any ideas for a replacement tach for the S14 just for sh!ts and giggles? (my rpm gauge acts weird once in a while) Ohhh yeah, someone give this man his title

A replacement for the s14... that oval-ish tach isn't used in many nissans...4 cyl or 6 cyl?

I came across it when I was nabbing the dual fans from the I30 for my RB (same calsonic p/n as the altima ones) and decided to take a peak at the cluster to eye it up to the 240's tach. Perfect match.

AWESOME AWESOME AWESOME!!!

Another incredibly useful and genius writeup!

Wow somebody else in Lehigh Acres, never thought I'd ever see that

Very good writeup by the way!

Fibre guy wrote:A replacement for the s14... that oval-ish tach isn't used in many nissans...4 cyl or 6 cyl?

I came across it when I was nabbing the dual fans from the I30 for my RB (same calsonic p/n as the altima ones) and decided to take a peak at the cluster to eye it up to the 240's tach. Perfect match.

Definetly a 4 cyl.

I like it a whole lot better than my J30 tach. I just wish you would of shared this sooner. Good job!

Thanks again for the good replies, not a single flame, wooo!

maj Andres wrote:
Definetly a 4 cyl.

I'll see what I can find.

tomatotyler wrote:Wow somebody else in Lehigh Acres, never thought I'd ever see that

Me either. Maybe after I finish my 240's new radiator support I'll show you a RB. By the model of the cookie cut houses in the sig you look to be off of Joel or homestead.

Good guess lol, right off of Homestead. I'd love to see the RB

Fibre guy wrote:My stereo head unit has a clock on all the time so it doesn't get to me. But maybe I should extend the writeup to add the clock back in, its possible.

On a side note, who do I talk to for a custom title?

Me, I'll make it angry duck or whatever you wanted... if you want it to be something different, let me know.

Damn shame all the pictures are out of focus.

Thank you. Angry ducky is just fine.

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Damn shame all the pictures are out of focus.

The camera I was using is only good for distance photo's not close-ups.
Modified by Fibre guy at 3:41 PM 8/8/2009

Awesome write up!

Also looking into swapping the speedo. With the rb25 the MPH doesn't work right with the stock s13 speedo.Maybe this one will since its from a VG. Will test it. If it works I'm going to make a write up of that swap too.30 more mph, all the better for track use.

I30 MPH gauge input is the same as the 240's (60mph=1024rpm)

I just did this swap. Except with a different tach. Don't know if this has already been discovered but turns out the maxima (95-99) has the same exact tach as the I30 .

The only thing is that this happened..(sorry for the kinda thread jack) zer...d=135

If you guys can check it out and give me a hand that would be great. Thanks ahead of time

i realise this threads old but will this mod work with a single cam cluster

I can't see why not. As long as it fits, the wiring is easy. The cluster has the name of all of the wire functions if you follow the copper strips. If its not on the strip it will be on the tach's chip board.

Speedo's need a matching RPM=KPH in order to work.Tach's need a matching # of cylinders to the engine your using.

I just did this on my single cam. It works fine, but how do I know how accurate it is? I found some kind of adjuster screw on the side, what exactly is it for? Can it mislead idle readings? Just asking bc im about to check my ignition timing on my 20 and i want to make sure my tach is as accurate as possible.

If the shop has a consult device, they can plug it in and read the rpm info from the ECU.

I have everything hooked up correctly according to the pictures on here. When I plugged everything in and turn the key on I could smell something burning. Traced it back to the ecu and found the same resistor is fried that this thread talks about: http://zilvia.net/f/engine-tech/272519- ... -look.html

I dont understand why it fried that resistor, and what should I do now?

hi,

I'm trying this out i noticed that i drilled the holes not in the right spot when i put the plastic cover the tach looks a bit off,
my question is that if i want to drill new holes to adjust the location of the i30 tach again will it affect it? because it's on the plastic copper.

R_Webb
Regards,