mine had the same problem.i got a Dakota Digital to solve the cluster issue.anyone has the hardness wire diagrams?cause every time i move the hardness my Dakota loses power.sow im thinking why my rb25 wont give my spark or gas to the injecctors.I guess.....any one knows?and how do I test my ECU?to know its working

Pyrokid wrote:The RB25 does need more custom stuff then the SR. The reason the SR is an easy swap is because it was built for the s13 chassis. So in essence your friends are right.

What about an RB25 swap for an S14? would it be more difficult than an SR? I've been saving up for a swap, but I don't know which one.

The SR is always the easier swap, the chassis doesn't matter. The RB wasn't built for the S chassis at all, so it requires custom mounts and a custom drive shaft. Given you could buy these, but the SR will drop in. In both cases you have to worry about wiring, but in the SR's case it's much easier.

I got a question. Is it possible to swap gears out of 2 diff trannies that are the same in construction but have diff gear ratios. A long time ago a friend of mine said he wanted to put first and second in his honda b18 tranny type r, 3rd 4th and 5th ls gears, and my teacher told him that was not possible because u cant mix match gears in transmissions, but my other friend got something offline regarding dsm's where this guy built his ecplise and had a gst tranny but swapped out the 5th gear from a gsx awd tranny, and he belives it is possible to be done. I just want some clarification on that.... if ne 1 can help.

I'm pretty sure that most gears in most trannies can be swapped, but its expensive and pretty damn in depth. Pretty sure 2nd gear can't be swapped out of WRXs, because the gear itself is actually cast with the shaft?? Not 100% sure though. A kid around here said he swapped out his 3rd gear in his 240 for one that was much longer... I don't remember what it came out of though.

ooo i c, thanks 4 clearing that up

Hey guys, I've been lurking for awhile and just picked up my 240 so I figured it was time to start speaking.

First off, I own an 89 sohc, the body is in pretty good shape (thank god) but there's more rust than I thought, I got taken (didn't take a close enough look).

The brake master cylinder is leaking, so the left hand framerail is paintless and surface rusting. driver's front strut tower is rusted through in one place, small hole. Left rear wheel well is completely rusted through in a large line, but not in a load-bearing area (thank god). I'll take it to a shop to get repaired later, as the rest of the vehicle is pretty sharp.

My questions...

1) The rear drums (parking brakes) are dragging in reverse. I'm 99% sure it's the shoes and not the diff, but I suppose I could be wrong. I can't find a place to purchase any kind of parking brake upgrade... the reason I say 'upgrade' is because if I'm going to replace things I'd rather improve them. I could go oem but I imagine the parts are pricey. I hear that 300zx knuckles/brakes come with new rotors/pads/calipers/parking brakes? If that is so I would pursue that repair, but again I don't know where too look. I've checked frsport and they don't have what I need.

2) The front left shock is blown, and in need of replacement. I'm building this car with intent to drift (*cough* learn to drift *cough* (please don't laugh )) so I'll be lowering and replacing all 4 corners anyway. I've been told that Tein Superdrifts are the best for my dollar. At the same time I've been reading more about megan racing and bccoilovers and hearing good things. I'm not overly concerned about the 500$ difference if there is quality, but I'd rather not spent more than I have to.

3) I have the timing chain rattle of death. It's aweful, happens at all times, and I bought the car aware of it, (I have all the tools necessary to complete the repair; Apprentice Technician : ). I've purchased a timing chain/gear/tensioner set, water pump, oil pump, and thermostat (just because I don't have a service history and want to be safe : ). A concern though is that the oil pressure light remains on for 10-15 seconds after starting the vehicle. I put it up on jacks last night and noticed that the oil pan was bent up pretty badly... I went searching for an oil pan online and can't find one. I will be swapping for an SR next summer so I'm avoiding unnecessary repairs, will a bent oilpan lead to engine destruction? I plan on pulling it anyway and inspecting/cleaning the pickup tube, but I don't know KAs at all. Would the bent pan cause the low oil pressure?

4) I've read a LOT about the 5 lug hub swap. I have a lot of questions about hub/knuckle - rotor - caliper - wheel - strut fitment. If I get 1500$ tein superdrifts and lower the vehicle now, but then decide to go with a big brake upgrade and 5-lug hubs *later*, will the coilovers still bolt up? I can't throw away money like that :

...I think that's everything. 4 biggies. My goals for this car are just to have a toy, I'll be shooting for ~300WHP, priority on throttle response, custom stereo install and professional paint by the end. I just have to get my ducks in a row to begin with.

Thanks in advance for any responses! It's nice to be here, I look forward to a lot of headaches with this car :

well to me seems like the RB and SR will cost ya the same to do the swap.you can find all the parts you need for bought of them.But the RB its way faster I have a friend that has the sr swap and he cant catch me.plus I get more boost then him on stock engine.but it was made for what ever ya want to put in it,also have another freind with a 2jz on his.sow man its up to you,to me its all about power...also my car was build with a drift set up sow im pretty much hooked up on suspension and every thing.no matter what you choose any swap will be good.just make sure ya put some fattys on the back.lol

how much boost can a stock rb20, and 25 handle? what is the diference between the rb20 and rb25?

SHIFT_pinks wrote:quick question...just wanted to know if any1 knew about or near the price to engine swap a 96' 240sx with the rb26dett? i think its the 96' model that can be swapped not sure.

I have been seeing a few on ebay sale for $3500-$5000, some with free shipping. Not quite such of their reliablity, but the warranty look pretty good for a used jdm engine. Of course installing and setting up will easly be another $3000 in you do "most" of the work your self.

What's the best way to go about draining about 1/2 - 3/4 quarts of oil out of my car? Just a guess as I'm not sure exactly how much, all I know is that I over filled it. Do I have to drain it all out or is it possible to just drain some?

One more question. My muffler is starting to go (finally it's 18 years old!) Anyways, I want a quiet muffler. I was going to go ahead and get an ebay muffler but I know it will sound like ****. I would just get a cheap quiet one at the muffler shop but I would really like to have a dual tipped chrome muffler. Any suggestions? Maybe every e-bay muffler doesn't sound like ****?

DEATH661 wrote:how much boost can a stock rb20, and 25 handle? what is the diference between the rb20 and rb25?

zerothread?id=135005http://forums.nicoc ... 35400Those should answer your question.

gismonismo wrote:well to me seems like the RB and SR will cost ya the same to do the swap.you can find all the parts you need for bought of them.But the RB its way faster I have a friend that has the sr swap and he cant catch me.plus I get more boost then him on stock engine.

This is not true. The RB swap will always be more expensive(I'm not 100% sure about the rb20, but I assume your talking about the rb25 since you have one). Not only is the actual motor more expensive but the swap process is as well. The only thing needed for the SR swap is wiring. To swap the RB in you need new motor mounts, a new tranny mount, a custom drive shaft and wiring.Basically, SR is cheaper, but the RB does have more potential.

beachsidefl321 wrote:What's the best way to go about draining about 1/2 - 3/4 quarts of oil out of my car? Just a guess as I'm not sure exactly how much, all I know is that I over filled it. Do I have to drain it all out or is it possible to just drain some?

Well, either use the dipstick like a straw and suck it out, or take the bolt out of the oil pan and put it back in real quick.

beachsidefl321 wrote:One more question. My muffler is starting to go (finally it's 18 years old!) Anyways, I want a quiet muffler. I was going to go ahead and get an ebay muffler but I know it will sound like ****. I would just get a cheap quiet one at the muffler shop but I would really like to have a dual tipped chrome muffler. Any suggestions? Maybe every e-bay muffler doesn't sound like ****?

Your best bet would be to go to ask a muffler shop if they have anything like that, seeing as how you will most likely not be doing the job yourself.Your other option is to just get a completely stock exhaust and buy some chrome tips for it. (probably the better option)

(95' 240sx btw w/ ka24de)Hey So I'm gutting my car right? I'm pulling every thing thats not required for blinkers, motor function, turning, breaking, and head lights + gauges. You know the Nesentials basically, duh. Anyways I was wondering where I could find I wiring diagram for the whole car color coded? I want to re-route some things and know which things I can pull withough going " oh crap the red one is my speedo, the green was my antena " holding the green one in my hands after cutting the red one So a wiring schematics would be nice

beachsidefl321 wrote:One more question. My muffler is starting to go (finally it's 18 years old!) Anyways, I want a quiet muffler.

Do not get an ebay muffler

I have a blitz 3" nur spec exhaust with a Silencer it cuts down the noise a lot. any name brand 2.5" exhaust with a silencer will do the trick and add a few HP.


Modified by Kalypso123 at 5:07 AM 6/10/2008

hey i just bought a zenki SE 5-speed the last night and am having only one issue suprising enough.

the best way to describe it is that it sounds like bowling ball is in my trunk. but only when i let off the gas. and its not every time.

i was thinking maybe something is loose and havent had time to tear it apart.

anyone goy anything.

also this is an "im a lazy ***" question.....where can i find OEM lips for a decent price. huge fan of OEM body kit

Ok, i have kind of a stupid question.

I'm thinking of taking off my stock spoiler (SE model), but when i went to go look at at and take it off...what do i see? Rust

I really want to take it off because it is out of shape and idk why.

Should i just leave it on there? (because i have no money atm to do anything about it)
Modified by jonny_s13 at 8:19 PM 6/10/2008

well, if you literally have 0 money, then yes, it is better to leave it on there. What were you planning on doing if there was no rust? Leaving open holes from the mounting hardware?

Save up some cash, and get that rust fixed, or fix it yourself.

Well of course i wasn;t going to leave the open holes, but i was just wondering if it would be worth taking it off now with the chance of rust. Because the spoiler looks like **** on it now.

95 se. how do i kknow if mine was supposed to come with keyless. i would figurean se would come with it

Does any one know where I could order this part:I found out the driver side hole is stripped so my valve cover it only held down by 11/12 of the screws Would a nut and bolt with washers work as a temp solution?

RCG_Savage wrote:Does any one know where I could order this part:I found out the driver side hole is stripped so my valve cover it only held down by 11/12 of the screws Would a nut and bolt with washers work as a temp solution?

You should be able to order that part from a dealer (local or online), or go to a junk yard and get it. That is the front upper timing cover. Check http://www.courtesyparts.com. You may have to email someone there.

munsterrr wrote:95 se. how do i kknow if mine was supposed to come with keyless. i would figurean se would come with it

I'm gonna say no... after all, it was 1995...

jonny_s13 wrote:Well of course i wasn;t going to leave the open holes, but i was just wondering if it would be worth taking it off now with the chance of rust. Because the spoiler looks like **** on it now.

If your car is the one in your avatar, your car is white. White is a pretty easy color to match. If it bothers you that much, take it off. What is it that you want to hear from us? You say it looks like crap, but you don't have any money to fix the rust. Well, it will look a lot more like **** when you take the spoiler off and there is an *** ton of ugly rust laying around, and then it rains out and fills your trunk with water and rusts out the bottom. You do the math.

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
If your car is the one in your avatar, your car is white. White is a pretty easy color to match. If it bothers you that much, take it off. What is it that you want to hear from us? You say it looks like crap, but you don't have any money to fix the rust. Well, it will look a lot more like **** when you take the spoiler off and there is an *** ton of ugly rust laying around, and then it rains out and fills your trunk with water and rusts out the bottom. You do the math.

I think a simple "no, i don't think you should take the spoiler off" would have done fine papasmurf. When trying to help people maybe you shouldn't try to make them feel like a dumbass...

doe snico have any actual meets in south carolina?

beachsidefl321 wrote:
I think a simple "no, i don't think you should take the spoiler off" would have done fine papasmurf. When trying to help people maybe you shouldn't try to make them feel like a dumbass...

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:well, if you literally have 0 money, then yes, it is better to leave it on there.

I guess you missed that post? Making people look like dumbasses really does work though. It gets the point across and helps them to make a good descision. Just immagine if you actually DID take that off because I said something like "meh, naah". You'd be pretty pissed after the first rainstorm haha!

Well it did work, but a simple "no" would have worked because i'm a dumbass when it comes to things like that. I would have trusted your thoughts anyways

Please someone help me out here. I have a 97 240sx LE. KA24DET DOHC Inline 4. I can't find the pcv valve can anyone help me out. Also I asked the coilover question about 30 posts back and have decided on either tein flex or super drift. Can anyone one give me anyfeed back on either or point me in the right direction. I am leaning more toward Flex. I have been searching for a while now and still have not found any comparisons. Also I bought the 300zx 30mm aluminum calipers and have them powder coated but I wanted to rebuild them. I found the front caliper rebuild kit no problem but I can't find the rear. And when I call the dealership they won't help unless I give them a vin number. I am at a loss of what to do on that. And last I have been looking into swaping a new power train in my car. I am almost 90% sure I am going to go with an SR20 but I don't know which one to go with. The s14 SR20 top notch or the s15 SR20. Can anyone tell me which is the better build and why the s15 SR20 has 30hp more. Is it just a bigger turbo. I have been searching for this for a while now too. Some help or directions to the help would be greatly appreciated. I am not just asking these questions without searching and being lazy I have seriously searched and have not found what I have been looking for please someone send me some help.

Thanks,

rzerob

The PCV valve on the KA24DE is located underneath the intake manifold and is a complete pain in the *** to get to. It comes out of a black box. Here is a pic of mine:As for coilovers, I would go with Tein Flex. They have better spring rates for street driving.Also, I would just stick with KAT since you already have it, instead of switching to SR, unless something is fundamentally wrong with your setup (motor about to blow, etc).

hello everyone, i just picked up a 90 s13 with a blown sohc motor in it. looking to buy a dohc to put in the car and run that for a while, just to get used to the car. going ka-t this winter or next spring.

i was wondering how much power a ka-t can hold reliably with motor work (pistons, rods, headgasket etc), or if ka-t's are reliable at all

also, will the 5 speed tranny from the ka24e directly bolt to the ka24de? all help is appreciated, thanks in advance