I know, another overheating problem>< please read!

[nigel34]

So im having an unusual overheating problem. when it first occured i just replaced the thermostat. That did not help, so i replaced the water pump and radiator, it looked to be in poor shape. still overheating. the car will run fine for 7 mins or so then get the the H, for about 15 seconds then cool right back down, only to do it once again within the next 5 mins. I thought i could have just gotten a bad thermostat so i replaced it once again. Same issue. i got the " break open" one as well. no fix. I totally removed the thermostat and it runs fine. takes a touch longer to warm up but it runs at its normal operating temperature. I have heard this is not good to do long term so i would love some incite on this issue. I was thinking about getting the nismo one because it opens at a lower temp, 150 ish or so. Help Please!

PS I feel pretty confident in my bleeding of the coolent each time. raising the nose and letting air out and such.

[Andy4106]

bleeding would be a huge. esp if you got a new rad.
bleeding takes a while. and pulling the thermostat will make the air bubbles move freely.

not really sure, you replaced everything. hahahaha maybe your gauge is messed up.

[nigel34]

I thought it could be the gauge so i used a heat gun, and its fine now. Before it was clearly overheating, resivoir was boiling over ect. It was bleed twice since the radiator was in, ive done a lot of lurking to find the best method as well, so im pretty sure its right.

[shiro_neko]

maybe your radiator cap needs changing. also open your radiator cap and run the engine. if it boils you might have a bad head gasket

[nigel34]

Well without the thermostat it does not boil out. New radiator cap is a good idea though!

[shiro_neko]

my reservoir used to boil too. I changed the radiator cap and it fixed the problem

[nigel34]

Was the car overheating as well? And wouldnt mine continue to boil without a thermo? I used a heat gun, so gauge is correct... and without the thermo it is running at the proper temp, just takes a little longer to warm up. I took off the stock clutch fan and electric fan, and replaced it with the ford tauras one, after all this started because the stock one was broken. But thanks for the tip on the cap, ill get one asap. Anyone have any info on the nismo thermostat?

[shiro_neko]

yeah it did. Well your thermo will only monitor your engines temp. your ECU will compensate for the changes but it will not prevent it from overheating if somethings broken. so it no longer overheats but your gauge goes high? did you have any codes?

[nigel34]

no, my gauge says its the proper temp as well. It was saying it was overheating when it was actually over heating. I basically said the gauge was always correct in a really confusing way ><

[shiro_neko]

Sorry I got confused. I thought you were talking about the engine temp sensor. so when the thermostat is installed it overheats? and it doesnt when you remove it?

[nigel34]

correct.

[shiro_neko]

Check your reservoir if it has any leaks. I remember when my reservoir boiled it also has a leak

[Z_OMSIN]

Sounds identical to what mine is doing ,I wish more people chimed in to other options since I've done all of these and it still overheats. I've heard good things about the nismo thermostat but I have no first hand knowledge about it. I'm done with trying...just gonna swap out for an sr20 and hopefully call it a day.

[boost240]

no get the nismo thermostat its a great buy if you track your car. maybe a shotty thermostat?

[shiro_neko]

If its not an airlock you might want to check your head gasket. pinholes in head gasket can cause overheating

[liquid_cool]

i had this issue for a while..but im modifyed ...it was definitly the cap man....changed over to a buddyclub racing high pressure cap..and now i run way cooler than i did before...the cap will hold back the pressure in the system allowing the radiator to cool the water insted of letting the water go out to the overflow tank ..leaving a void in your coolant system...hope this helps a bit...good luck

[Bumnah]

What is your bleeding method?

Do you bleed with the heater on, cranked all the way up?

Radiator cap is certainly an easy option to try, but from your description of the problem I'm leaning towards bleeding as your problem.

The fact that it goes up (in temp) and then back to normal, I'm guessing there is a large air bubble inside moving around. The temp is probably going up when the air bubble is passing the sensor.

I have this thing to help in bleeding. It's $35 from your Snap On man.


It becomes the highest point in your cooling system. It's a great piece, I highly recommend it.

My bleeding method is like so:

Fill the radiator up with coolant/water.
Heater on, full blast.
Turn on the car.
Squeeze the radiator hoses (inlet and outlet).
I do it until I hear the thermostat kick open, and I see more water taken in by system.
Keep going until you don't see any more bubbles coming up in the yellow piece pictured above.

Works every time. Good luck.
Add water as needed while bleeding.

[nigel34]

Wow thanks a ton guys, bleeding tip worked great. and i got the nismo radiator cap, oil cap and thermo for 50 bucks... some kid ordered it all then wrecked >.<

[240ShaneX]

OP, did this fix your problem? I'm having the exact same issue. With t stat out it runs cool (actually too cool, about 150 when driving, temp gauge is almost at baseline). Ive tried 2 different t stats, brand new rad, and pump, and with the stats in its like they wont open. The bottom hose stay cool (about 80-90 deg) and the top waterneck gets as high as 260 deg (all measured with IR temp gun).

BUT this only seems to happen at idle. when I'm driving, it runs at about 210 and doesnt overheat (but still doesnt seem to be circulating water through the bottom hose).

Ive bled with like 5 times WITH that bleeder funnel for 20 mins, no help.

Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated!!!!!!

[compactfean]

You are supposed to crack the bleeding screw when engine is cold. Fill coolant until coolant comes out of bleeding screw. Tighten and start engine with heater on. There is an adapter you can buy that adapts to your radiator that you fill when running the engine so the radiator sucks from that adapter neck with the bowl. Keep filling until bubbles stop and then put your radiator cap on. Usually I do this twice. Let the car cool down and start over. Btw it says "do not open when hot" on the bleeder screw for a reason, not because it will burn you ...its for the bleeding procedure when cold if you guys didn't already rip the sticker off.lol