Might very well be the case.

Regardless, it's a product that suits most people's needs.

(BTW, atomized distilled water would remove deposits afterwards too - "clean" is relative.)

Greg, have you heard any benefits to using seafoam in a crankcase that has run primarily synthetic oil? I've always heard that synthetics help keep everything WAY cleaner than conventional oils, but I've never had the valve cover off anything that has run 100% synthetic.

*sorry, i'm not greg. Figured I'd respond though. Hopefully it's useful to you*

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Greg, have you heard any benefits to using seafoam in a crankcase that has run primarily synthetic oil? I've always heard that synthetics help keep everything WAY cleaner than conventional oils, but I've never had the valve cover off anything that has run 100% synthetic.

Honestly, if you change your oil on a regular basis and don't have too much blowby your engine should look pretty good with any oil you use.

Almost all oils will have some detergent in it.

One of the reasons that synthetics have been claimed to "clean engines" is that they are modified, or created depending on base stock, to resist breakdown. This will typically allow the oil to be used longer and/or harder without as much breakdown, and in turn, buildup as conventional oil.

I haven't really seen too much evidence that Synthetics really "clean" an engine that has buildup already though.

The deposits are kept in check by the detergent properties of synthetics somewhat better than dino oil... but I think the benefit starts to wane when you compare a 7500-mile oil change regimen on synthetic versus a 3000-mile regimen of good dino oil.

Regardless, even an engine that's always had synthetic will have some carbon deposits (my 100K mile VH was a good example).

Any "reversal" of buildup by strictly using synthetic oil would likely take longer than the lifespan of the engine to accomplish.

I can tell seafoam is getting much more wide spread now, because I saw it available at my local Kragen/O`Reilly's. KRAGEN/ O`REILLY's!!!!! They usually never have products that I find people talking about on the forums. Also a few stores in my area started stocking Water Wetter starting last year.

charlieo wrote:

AZhitman wrote:Actually, it's an affiliate link to Amazon.com for a few places where you can buy Seafoam at a fat discount, and I think NICO makes like $ .03 on each can.

So, shut up and go order some Seafoam.

Ahh, suspicions confirmed. Clever man, and I appreciate your candor.

"Sipping" regular water via vacuum line leads to good results too. Buy water here!

I agree with this... We have a mechanic that has worked at our marina for the past 40 years or so, and he always uses water instead of any of that other stuff... Its always wild to see him walk out to a boat with a bottle of water and dump it straight into the carb!

I imagine the water works really good to remove the deposits in the combustion chamber, but I imagine seafoam works better at cleaning intake valves AND the combustion chamber!

It works nicely as a gas additive too... It actually really helps remove water from gas tanks, Ive poured seafoam into jars of gas/water mixtures from boat gas tanks, and you see water vanish from the bottom of the tank...

PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:Greg, have you heard any benefits to using seafoam in a crankcase that has run primarily synthetic oil? I've always heard that synthetics help keep everything WAY cleaner than conventional oils, but I've never had the valve cover off anything that has run 100% synthetic.

lemme get bored and go do a valve adjustment on my Civic. for at least 100k it's only seen Mobil 1 full.

My VH was impeccable inside at 120K miles.

HOWEVER, I wouldn't expect that to be the case with all engines. I also used BG44K religiously and only Chevron fuel.

I may have to change my vote here.

A couple of days ago the main jets on my bike clogged up. Not sure why as the fuel filter is relatively new and the bike is constantly used...

I pulled the carburetors apart and inspected everything. This is when I discovered that the main jets were mostly clogged.

So I figured it was time for a test.

I put everything back together. Fed Seafoam directly to the carburetors. Well, the bike didn't like this. It would run on that stuff. So I diluted it to about 40/60 seafoam/gas. The bike started on choke. I gave it a little throttle, just short of killing it, to keep the main jets open. I ran about 8 ounces of this mix through the bike. I killed it about half way through and let it soak for about 30 minutes then ran the rest of the mix through. This didn't help at all!

So, on to the next product. Berryman's B-12. This stuff smells delicious! From reading the forums, this stuff burns better/hotter then gas. So I filled up 8 ounces of it into the funnel. Started the bike. Opened the throttle slightly. At about half way down I shut the bike off and let it sit for 30 minutes. Then started it up. This time it would start without the choke on and idle(would just die before). I held the throttle open slightly. I noticed the RPMs climbing. This stuff burns much better then gas. Probably bad for the engine in large doses. I then started snapping the throttle. Before doing this, the engine would die when doing this, now it was starting to respond properly. When the funnel was empty I connected the gas line to the gas tank and went for a 30 minute ride.

The bike is now responding normally. It idles properly and starts easily again.

So, I'd say go for B-12 if you have a really dirty fuel system.

Also, this stuff is $3.99 whereas Seafoam is $9.99 at the Autoparts store.

Cool story, bro.

You may be right, but there's a few flaws: One, you're assuming causation. Perhaps the SF did its job over time, making the B12 that much more effective... Two, why wouldn't you just clean the jets while they were out? Third, you were using it solely as a fuel system cleaner, not as a decarbonisation agent - that's not SF's claim to fame. BG44K would have been the ideal product for what you did (actually, cleaning the carb jets the RIGHT way would have been ideal).

AZhitman wrote:Cool story, bro.

You may be right, but there's a few flaws: One, you're assuming causation. Perhaps the SF did its job over time, making the B12 that much more effective... Two, why wouldn't you just clean the jets while they were out? Third, you were using it solely as a fuel system cleaner, not as a decarbonisation agent - that's not SF's claim to fame. BG44K would have been the ideal product for what you did (actually, cleaning the carb jets the RIGHT way would have been ideal).

Yeah, I just saw the clogged jet and thought of this thread though

I don't think I saw the BG44k at the parts store. I'll check again though for future. Thanks for the heads up.

It's usually available at NAPA, and most Infiniti dealers... I buy mine online.

Actually, I think I saw it in AutoZone one day. Easier to find than it was in 97.

Does anyone have a picture of the vacuum hose to use on a 97 maxima?

I'd ask in the Maxima forum - You'll have an answer pronto.

this has never been done on my Z32 . im at 98k and about to do an oil change anyways.

Is this not a good idea on a higher mileage motor that has never been seafoamed?

I seafoamed my 240sx when I first bought it and I had about 160k miles on it and it was fine.
I think it you'll be okay.

Won't hurt a thing.

Just for s***s and giggles, I Seafoamed our '63 NL320 last week. HILARIOUS to watch all the smoke whooshing out of the 1.2" exhaust pipe...LOL

Believe it or not, she ran beautifully afterwards.

I'll be attempting this within the next few days on a 91 240sx coupe (ka24de). I'll post pics of the brake booster line going into the manifold just for future reference. On a side note i used page 9 of the FSM in the BR section to locate the appropriate hose. I'll only be using 1 can.... 1/3 will go into the crank case; 1/3 will go in through the brake booster line (while by passing the check valve) and the other 1/3 will be in the fuel tank. Should be fun!! new fuel pump (walbro), plugs (ngk), and wires (aurora), are standing by to go in after 100-200 miles as well as an oil change. Eventually a new cat will go in since a i gotta pass smog next summer. cant wait for the results....car runs fine just had a hard time passing smog even after i changed the egr and O2 sensor. im sure the new cat and this treatment should make the biggest impact. my car smells like rotten eggs after long trips (70+)

AZhitman wrote:HILARIOUS to watch all the smoke whooshing out of the 1.2" exhaust pipe...LOL

You make Al Gore cry.

BusyBadger wrote:

AZhitman wrote:HILARIOUS to watch all the smoke whooshing out of the 1.2" exhaust pipe...LOL

You make Al Gore cry.

WIN

Hi AZHitman, i had a few questions about sea foaming my 1993 Nissan 240sx! Its got 152,000 miles on it! (i doubt its ever been sea foamed) Anyway i used to have a SOHC 240sx and it was ALOT better on gas than this DOHC ka24de! Im guessing that if i sea foam it, it will get better gas milege, cause it will clean out a good ammount of carbon build up and sludge!!! Anyway my questions were, when i sea foam the enigne... to start pouring it into the brake booster hose... do i have to disconnect any other hoses, or do i just disconnect the brake booster hose, and start pouring in the sea foam???? I need to do a tune up anyway so after i sea foam it i will drive it 50 to 100 miles, then i will change the oil, plugs, wires, and distributer cap! Then ill add half the next can of sea foam in the valve cover oil hole (is that called the crankcase??), and half of it into the fuel tank, after i change my oil! RIGHT????

Pretty close.

You don't POUR it into the booster line. Re-read the first post carefully...

You got the rest correct.

Aa said im posting up images from my seafoam experiences. this is the first time i've posted images to this board and hopefully the thread starter won't mind. If there are better ways to post images please let me know and i will re-edit my post.

brake booster and vac hose:


vac hose with check valve that you should by-pass as stated by the thread starter (its the white disc in the middle of the hose)


one end of vac hose (the end that is exposed after you by-pass the check valve) this is the end the fluid gets sucked into


other end of hose that goes into engine/manifold


it's pretty hard to keep the engine from stalling once you get going so a helper is always good. enjoy!!

novocaine wrote:Aa said im posting up images from my seafoam experiences. this is the first time i've posted images to this board and hopefully the thread starter won't mind. If there are better ways to post images please let me know and i will re-edit my post.

brake booster and vac hose:


vac hose with check valve that you should by-pass as stated by the thread starter (its the white disc in the middle of the hose)


one end of vac hose (the end that is exposed after you by-pass the check valve) this is the end the fluid gets sucked into


other end of hose that goes into engine/manifold


it's pretty hard to keep the engine from stalling once you get going so a helper is always good. enjoy!!

How come you have in your pic a part of the hose that is on the intake manifold side?? Dont you just unplug the brake booster hose, and then isnt there a little piece inside that you take out?? Its bypassing the check valve? Isnt the check valve the piece thats inside a little bit of your brake hose, at the end of the hose?????

AZhitman wrote:Pretty close.

You don't POUR it into the booster line. Re-read the first post carefully...

You got the rest correct.

Oh ya lol i know your suppose to give it little sips! My bad for poor choice of words! I read your instrutions very carefully, and will follow it step by step when i do it this weekend! But we are suppose to bypass the check valve! Isnt the check valve the piece thats stuck inside the brake booster hose a little bit?? But its like at the end of the hose??? And your suppose to pull it out???? And then start sea foaming???? And when i start my engine to start the sea foam, do i unplug the hose first or start the engine first???

you'll be ok once you pop your hood and actually see how things come together. I highly recommend downloading an FSM just to kind of see everything before you begin work (on any project). If you read the thread starters instructions it will say to put the seafoam in through the side of the hose that leads into the manifold. this is what im showing you in the picture. the check valve that i bypassed is simply STILL IN the hose that leads to the brake booster.... in which case there is no picture of. I did however post a picture of the hoses connected with the check valve in the middle.
also as a side note...not sure if it matters....but i unplugged everything then started the engine and began the seafoam process. this was after i warmed up the engine to normal operating temp. you'll be able to hear the loud suck coming from the hose when you start her up!! good luck dude...when you finish you'll see how easy it is.

...and post pics of the massive smoke cloud.

I dont know how to post pics on nico club, and i want to know! Also i want to make a pic of my car with words in it, as a signature!! If you or someone else knows how to do this... please let me know!! But what and where is the Check Valve located?????????????????????????????????????????????????????? And i will post a video on youtube when i sea foam it! In the mean time if you want to check out my car on youtube, check out my channel... my name on youtube is 240sxGuy3

the check valve is what the arrow is pointing to.


dont forget to grab an FSM. they are free and i gave the page number and section to look in concerning the matter in one of my posts in this thread. enjoy!

What is an FSM??? And where do i get them?? And so i have to take out the check valve when i sea foam it?? How do i take out the check valve??? And if i bypass it do i just disconnect that hose from there and then start pouring it to the left side of the hose?? Why do i have to bypass the check valve??? BTW just so i dont sound like a retard for not knowing what all this is lol... i just gotta tell you im 16 haha!!