How To: S14 Subframe Removal

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
bllabong89
Posts: 485
Joined: Tue Sep 01, 2009 1:25 pm
Car: 1995 s14

Post

Before we start, I just want to say this is to remove the subframe if you already have the rear suspension/hub assembly removed. Also, If I have missed anything and/or have something incorrect, please give your input. This is here to help people who may be a little overwhelmed by the task. And lift off......

Difficulty: 1-2 out of 5

Tools Needed:
-Motorcycle Lift(or jack or a few people, you pick)
-Air Impact
-Have on hand
-10mm socket
-14mm wrench and socket
-17mm socket
-19mm socket
-Large Pry Bar or Pry Tool
-Liquid Wrench(can make life easier)
-Brake Parts Cleaner

Alright, to start things off you will need your car off of the ground...of course. You will want to have sufficient lighting to keep things safe. The circled areas are the 4 main nuts that hold the subframe up but I will get to the removal of them later.
Image

First things first, drain the fluid from your diff. I guess its not required but it can make things a little lighter and easier to drain the doing it in the future. If yours is like mine, it will be a 1/2" square drive like you would find on an impact gun or a socket wrench(what you attach the socket to).
Image

Once drained and re-plugged, you can remove the bolts for the drive shaft. I found that it was easier by fitting the end of the wrench into the lip of the subframe. From here, you can put your pry bar thru the holes in the joint and turn the shaft to brake the nuts loose.
Image

The first thing from here is to put a jack under the subframe so it doesn't drop on your toes...After that, you can remove the suspension arm that doesn't allow you to remove the furthest back nuts on the subframe. You can also detach the ground and the vent house(not sure if that is completely correct).
Image

Image

After those are removed, you can now start to take the nuts and bolts out to drop the subframe. You will want to remove an L-Shaped bracket on the front of the subframe. This has two bolts and one nut. You will need to remove all three but once they are removed, I suggest putting the nut on until all of the nuts are loose(just to prevent possible accidents). The L-Shaped bracket is circled in a later picture.
Image

After the front nuts are loose, you can loosen the rear two nuts.
Image

After all of them are loose, it is safe to remove them as long as you have people holding the subframe or are using a sturdy jack. Note that you do NOT want to drop it all the way yet because you still need to remove two brackets that hold the e-brake cable in place.
Image

Image

Once those are removed, you can now slide the subframe out from under the car. Below are locations of all of the bolts/nuts that are on the subframe itself.
1-Differential Vent
2-Ground Cable
3-Suspension Arm Bolts
Image

I hope this helps and if you have any questions/comments, feel free to add them.

Thanks,
Andrew


User avatar
krash
Posts: 4836
Joined: Mon Apr 11, 2005 10:43 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240sx Convertible
Location: Memphis, TN
Contact:

Post

Good stuff my friend, you just got yourself an article.

bllabong89
Posts: 485
Joined: Tue Sep 01, 2009 1:25 pm
Car: 1995 s14

Post

Well thank you. It's all about helping out fellow drivers

User avatar
breadbox
Posts: 8549
Joined: Tue Oct 17, 2006 4:09 pm
Car: 89 Nissan 240SX
89 Koop
84 720 4x4KC
Location: Va Bch

Post

I will point out when draining a diff, its a good rule of thumb to open the filler hole first, because if you can't fill it, no use in draining it.

Also if the rear suspension is connected just undo the 17mm nut on the bottom and slap it out, no real need to remove top of the rear suspension, cuz the nuts are kinda bitchy to get to with full interior.

Put wheels back on before lowering the subframe all the way and it makes it easy to roll around.

To put it on its best with 3 people. Use a board under the diff and center it on the board and it will line up way easier on install. and be mindful of the e-brake cables and brake calipers.

Ive done alot of s13 rear end work lately and these are a few things I remember.

When the rear is out, its a good time to throw some new rear sway endlink bushings. easy and cheap.

bllabong89
Posts: 485
Joined: Tue Sep 01, 2009 1:25 pm
Car: 1995 s14

Post

Thanks for the info. It is a very good time to check all of the bushings on the rear end. You have made some good points.

Thanks,
Andrew


Return to “240sx General Discussion”