How-To: Cleaning Electrical Connections

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rockchucker
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2010 3:51 am
Car: Blue 90 2+0 N/A 5-sp, 1993 Red Vert N/A 5-spd, 1993 Cocoa BronZe Vert N/A 5 spd

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So this is a very common problem with the Z32. Electrical Connection corrosion. If I have directed you to this thread then you will need to check EVERY SINGLE CONNECTION UNDER THE HOOD!!! Yes all of them. Not just one or two but ALL of them! This takes a long time but it will pay off in the long run. It will also take a lot of guesswork out of troubleshooting issues with your Z. I clean EVERY SINGLE connector under the hood of any Z I work on.You can literally do this anywhere at anytime. The tools are relatively cheap too. Keep the necessary tools in your car and whenever you are just sitting there staring off into space...clean your connections.

Here is a picture and list of tools that you will need to perform this task. You do not need all of them but believe me it will be easier for you in the long run.

Small Pick Set http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_1...k+setSmall Needle File Set http://www.harborfreight.com/c...p=468CRC Q-D Electrical Connector Cleaner http://www.reliablepaper.com/Q...0.htmGood Dielectric Grease http://www.super-lube.com/sili...2.htm



Here is the test subject that I pulled out of Blue. It is a knock sensor and harness. Lets start by CAREFULLY removing the clip that holds on the Electrical Connection. The more of these you break by being a bull in a china shop, the more crap you are going to have to fix. So take your time and look at how each connector works, don't just rip it apart...



Now that the clip is removed the connection is able to be separated. You have to be careful here also. sometimes the corrosion you are trying to get rid of has bonded the connections together. DO NOT PULL ON THE WIRES TO SEPARATE THE CONNECTION!!! Spray some CRC Q-D in the connection and gently wiggle it back and forth until it releases.



Ahhhhhh!!!...Just as we thought, a bunch of green corrosion!



Now fill the connection with CRC Q-D and let it soak for a second or two.



Now dump the QD out on to a rag. When doing this over your engine it is VERY important to not flush corrosion down all over your engine. It will spread like wildfire. ALWAYS flush the corrosion onto a shop rag or towel.



The connector is ready for cleaning.



Take your flat needle file and gently scrape away all of the corrosion on the contacts. This means all of it not some or one connection...ALL OF IT! You will also see that the tip of the connections are beveled a little for smooth connection and guiding the pins in the hole. You will have to hold the file at an angle to get the corrosion off of these parts.



Now take a smaller pointy file and get the edges of the small connections also. All of the sides not just one or two...



Here is the connector cleaned but not flushed out yet.



This is the crap that comes out after cleaning when flushing out the connector. Like I said before...Flush the QD and corrosion out on to a rag. When doing this over your engine it is VERY important to not flush corrosion down all over your engine. It will spread like wildfire. ALWAYS flush the corrosion onto a shop rag or towel.



Now here is a happy clean connector with all of the copper shining bright. If you have compressed air you can gently blow out the remaining gunk. I use QD because it is quick drying and a little compressed air from your mouth will dry it sufficiently. Don't forget to run a pick in the bottom corners of the plastic to get the corrosion out of the connector also. If you do not get all of it out your cleaning will be useless and it will spread again to the connections.



So on to the Female portion of the connector. As you can see there is also some corrosion within this connector also. This example only has one connection but most of the others will have two. Yes you need to clean them both if they are there.



For these I do the same thing. Flush, scrape, flush, scrape, flush. I like to use a small round file for these connections and twist it while cleaning. It will get into the connection without harming it. You need to be VERY careful while doing this as to not widen the connection or it will not make proper contact and all of your work will be for nothing. So BE CAREFUL!!!



Since the wires are coming through the back of the connection you will want to hold the connector upside-down for flushing or you will flush all of your corrosion down into the rubber boot where it will spread again. Most of the rubber boots are going to be ripped anyways so I like to stick the nozzle of the QD into the ripped section of the boot and flush it out upside down to rinse all of the corrosion out. Clean, happy connector...



Now it is time for re-connection. Replace the metal clip back onto the connector. These can be a pain but I found it a very easy task after some practice. Take the clip with one side all of the way in place and hold it tight. Pushing force downward as to not let the tip of the clip snap into the connector area. Then bend the rest of the clip out and around over the top. Once the top is all of the way down you can release the other side and it will snap into place with neither of the sides snapping into the no-zone. If the starting side snaps into the connector then start over do not try to force it. It just takes a little finesse and practice.

FILL the connector with a good Dielectric Grease on both connectors...



Then reconnect until you hear a "snap" as confirmation of a good lock. Here you should see some Dielectric Grease squishing out of the connections. This means you did it RIGHT!!! Wipe off the excess and you are good to go! Never be afraid to use too much Dielectric Grease. On the Coil Pack connectors you can use too much and the connector will not want to snap back in place because it is air tight. Just use a Q-tip or a pick and just remove a little amount of the Dielectric Grease until it snaps into place. The whole point is to stop the corrosion and where there is air there is oxidation. So you want to remove the initial corrosion and stop it from happening again. Take away the corrosion and Oxidation and you will take away the corrosion all together. Now if you take a shortcut and just Dielectric Grease without cleaning all of the corrosion off you will essentially trap the corrosion inside the connector and it will creep up the wires if it has not already done so.



Do not forget to clean your tools before storing them. Especially the Needle Files. If you leave the corrosion on them they will corrode in the package and ruin your tools. I clean them with the Q-D then give them a squirt of WD-40 or equivalent for storage. Take care of your tools and they will take care of you.

That will be all...End of line/


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