How to adjust e-brake?

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94_240sx
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I just finished z32 e-brake setup, but I'm having hard time adjusting it. I used z32 2+2 e-brake cables. I tried to turn this 10mm nut(red arrow) under control lever, but failed. Control lever comes all the way up. If I turn the nut to bring the lever down, e-brake engages even though the control lever is all the way down. Is this nut is only thing I can play with? I have't removed the conter console yet.



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hai1206vn
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That 10mm nut is only for adjusting handle free play. Free play is the play before the cable starts moving at all, which means it should be less than the 1st click when you pull the handle. Adjust the handle free play first, by loosening the nut all the way until the handle feels ultra loose, like only gravity's keeping it in place. Then tighten the nut until the cable get slightly tighter, then back off a bit. The play should be about a few millimeters.

I find it easier to remove the center console, and remove the ebrake handle cover so I can use an open wrench on the 10mm nut while the handle is all the way down.

To adjust the drum brake itself, you need to go to the rear rotor. Release the handbrake all the way. There's a hole on the rotor hat where you would insert a flathead and turn this little adjuster nut with notches on it. Turn just until you can't turn the rotor anymore, then back off 2-3 notches. Repeat with the other side.

You can look it up here, Brake system section, page 23-24http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi

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onosqv
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the other thing you can do:

- completely release the ebrake on the handle side

- jack up car & remove wheel & rotor

- adjust the ebrake mechanism itself (there is a lil clicky thing either very bottom or very top - I forget) that you can turn by hand or w/ plier.

- the goal is to get the drum brake to sit just slightly out of the rotor hat's reach

- put everything back together

- adjust the handle again as necessary

- should be good to go

94_240sx
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Yes, I've done everything you guys described. I adjusted a clicky thing on e-brake mechanism, and I also removed free play from the control lever, but still I have to pull the lever all the way up to engage e-brake. To me, 240sx control lever has less leverage than 300zx's. According to FSM, I should have 6-7 notches to engage e-brake, but mine is at like 15-20 notches. I don't know what to do at this point.

I know many people have done this z32 brake swap, so please feel free to chime in. I had 6-7 notches with my original stock e-brake setup BTW.

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onosqv
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hmmmmm - I didn't have that issue @ all w/ mine....

- how did you route your ebrake cable?- after adjustment, (or if you can jack up your car), is there any play in the ebrake line (the actual line, not the cover)?

For mine, I don't think I used the 2+2, just the regular one. The 2+2 is what the s14 guys needed, I believe.

Maybe that's your problem?

94_240sx
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onosqv wrote:hmmmmm - I didn't have that issue @ all w/ mine....

- how did you route your ebrake cable?- after adjustment, (or if you can jack up your car), is there any play in the ebrake line (the actual line, not the cover)?

For mine, I don't think I used the 2+2, just the regular one. The 2+2 is what the s14 guys needed, I believe.

Maybe that's your problem?
That's weird. E-brake lines are tight on mine. I routed through holes on subframe. I've done everything correctly. You used 2-seater cables I believe. You can use 2+2 or 2 seater cables on s13 and R33 cables on s14.

- How did you bolt them on to the floor pan?- How far your e-brake control lever goes up?
Modified by 94_240sx at 2:10 PM 10/29/2008

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onosqv
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Do this:

- remove the center console for easy ebrake handle access- jack up car on all 4 jack stands- remove rear wheels & rear rotors

- now pull the ebrake handle

- try to put the rotor back one - it should not go on @ all

- if it does go on, then you have a problem w/ the ebrake assembly itself

- if it doesn't go on, then good, that means it's engaging

There's really not much more to it than what I explained here & my other posts... don't think I can be more help from there.

EDIT: and to answer your questions (when I had ebrake setup on mine, currently removed from old car & still have yet to be installed on new):

- I routed through the subframe as well & made custom l-brackets to bolt it to the stock holes

- after only a few clicks, the ebrake is engaged (but not fully locking); I can pull the ebrake almost all the way up & that will basically hold the car unless I give it quite a bit of gas; lighter/easier to pull than the stock 240 ebrake, but holds correctly for a parking brake.

94_240sx
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E-brake works, but my problem is e-brake handle is about at 60-70 degree angle to fully lock it. I want to have 6-7 notches as FSM says.

I have one more question. I adjusted nut adjusters(lower control thingy) and brake shoes are slightly touching the inside of rear rotors. I can hear the noise if I turn the rotor by hand. Is it okay to leave it this way or I shouldn't hear any noise at all? To make the noise compltely go away, I have to turn the nut adjuster all the way down on both sides, but passenger side is still touching a little bit.

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onosqv
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Ok, from the way I read your post, it sounded like you couldn't get it to engage at all, or it would be constantly fully engaged.

The only way you can possibly get it to lock @ a lower level fully at this point would be to buy new ebrake shoes since the ones you are using may be worn out.

Since you did everything else (ebrake shoe almost touching rotor & ebrake handle adjust to tight), there isn't anything left but that.

No, the shoe shouldn't be touching the rotor hat at all - just think of it as a regular brake pad, do you want your regular brake pads in the front/rear to be touching the rotor ever when you are driving?

The only other thing I can think of is to readjust the ebrake shoe (on the rotor side) so that it is several clicks away from the rotor hat.

Then on the ebrake handle side, tigthen ebrake handle via the 10mm nut until it expands the ebrake so that it is just about to contact the rear hat rotor but not quite yet.

This setup will basically take away some/all of the initial slack you need to start the ebrake drum expanding - depending on where you set the 10mm nut, it will be 0 -> 7 clicks -> whatever.

94_240sx
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Alright, I've been working on it for the past 2 hours, and finally I got it down to 7-8 clicks. I'm pretty happy with it. Only problem is shoes are touching the hats on both sides slightly. I have no problem turning the rotors. There's no resistance or slowing down. It turns freely, but it makes very small noise. I'm talking about 0.1-0.2mm clearance. I was thinking about grinding down the shoes, but I think I'll drive my car this way hoping that shoes will wear out eventually. I made it by adjusting nut adjuster(lower control thingy) between the shoes and a nut below the control lever. Thanks for your help.

94_240sx
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One more thing. I used this 10mm deep socket, so I didn't have to remove the center console. There's a hole underneath the control lever.


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maj Andres
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I also had a fun time playing with that adjuster screw on the brake assembly. BTW is that the aluminum NISMO shift knob? I've been eyeballing one of those for a while now does it get very hot?

94_240sx
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n2tg86 wrote:I also had a fun time playing with that adjuster screw on the brake assembly. BTW is that the aluminum NISMO shift knob? I've been eyeballing one of those for a while now does it get very hot?
Yeah, it's Nismo GT titanium shift knob. It was completely out of stock in the U.S., so I had to get it from Japan. I keep my car in the garage, so it doesn't stay out in the sun much. I wouldn't know.

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Slappy
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Did you takle this yet? It is possible that your old cables are stretched. Im about to order some new ones myself from the Dealer.



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