Since I bought a used 97 Nissan Maxima,I took it to local auto repair center to check generally.

They had done most of work, but then they had informed me thatI must replace/repair the front passenger side axle, it got torn offso dust can go into main shift.

To fix this, how much do you guys think it will cost?

I live in S. Cali (LA), any of you can recommend me some good place for meto get the service done?

Thanks

the best/cheapest place will be your driveway or garage. the part costs only about $40 iirc and is fairly simple to diy.

A complete half shaft runs about 225.00 installed parts and labor. If you are mechanically inclined and have the tools you can do it yourself. I don't like messing with drive shafts personally. The rubbber boot that is missing on the CV joint holds grease. If you drive it too long it slings the grease out and dries up the CV joint. I always just replace them. They usually last 7 to 10 years then crack open. Do you hear any popping noise when you turn the wheel. my 95 Max bursted a boot and I don't know how long it went, somewhere between oil changes before I caught it. Had a new boot put on and the CV joint started popping. So go ahead and replace the half shaft.

I think he is talking about the CV boot.

A rubber cover/boot is cheap but you better be mechanicallyinclinded or you will have your ball bearings from the axlescattered on the floor.

I recommend you put in a new shaft. Haynes has excellentdirections as does the FSM. If you diy, you probably needa helper holder.

I have been charged $200.00, $100.00 for labor and $100for the shaft.

Most of the shafts you get will be rebuilt but there are somethat are made new. I have been ok with rebuilt but just donthave the information to know where to get a brand new onerather than rebuilt.

it's either the CV boot he's talking about or the Dust shield for the axle seal...if it's the dust shield, that thing is like $1.50. If it's the CV just get a new one and remove the old one and replace it with a completely new one. I believe aamco, or pepboys are good places to go. DO NOT take it to the dealer, the axle from the dealer is $500 and isn't any better than the one that Kragen sells for $99...no lie, that's what my parts guy at the dealer told me.

i just did both of mine...it's sooo easy to install a new one. here's another thread!!

zerothread?id=370282

if you want a new axle, purchase one from Kragen...call ahead and order it over the phone so you get your 10% off(at most kragen), then pick it up when it's delivered to that Kragen.

i just got a NEW(not rebuilt) CV AXLE ASSEMBLY from Kragen. The brand they sell is Cardone, and it's a great brand.

take it to get aligned after if it feels as tho it pulls to one side when you drive.

DO NOT remove the tie rod end nut...keep it in...just pull the shaft out of the hub.

you will need:

1.25" impact socket for the hub nut.strong breaker bar.metric and standard sockets and socket wrenches.socket wrench extensions(for the 1/2 bolts on the support bracket)jack standswheel blocksi always recomend golves to protect your handsif you have an impact gun and good sized tank, it will go a lot faster.toruque wrenchnew cotter pin for the axle(it doesn't come with the new axle)and some basic understanding of suspension, and R&R mechanics...it's easy!

I highly recommend changing the tranny seal (after amechanic fixed my CV joint and messed up my seal.)Go OEM there

It is now June 2021. I have had my passenger front CV axle replaced now 4 times in 145000 miles. I got wise after the first screw job at the dealer and now have it done at my local body shop for $60 labor and I supply the parts ( I kept receipts and parts are replaced free).
My Rogue is a 2008 and it was found to have an issue with the axle. BTW I did replace all engine mounts.
The distal boot fails often and throws grease to the inside of the wheel causing imbalance...First clue) Also noticed at oil change as grease is everywhere... Second clue.

This is NOT a home job.. separating the lower control arm is a pain and take a cool tool my bodyshop calls "big red" which is a lever 8 feet long and pops the parts without damage as is common with a air knuckle buster. The work takes only 30 minutes for a skilled shopman.

Good luck and never go to the dealer when out of warranty.. See YOUTUBE video on the job for a good idea on how it's done.

Parts Cost:
$50 from Rockauto
$100 from Most Other AutoParts stores
$500 from dealer

Labor Cost: (LosAngeles)
Free (DIY, on your driveway). Requires 2 jack stands, 2x4 or other wheel chocks, jack (vehicle's jack will do), Metric socket set, screw driver, and one large socket bought at AutoParts for your Axle Nut. And a few wrenches from 12mm-18mm. C-clamp is helpful but not required. Needle nose pliars (for axle cotter pin.)
$100 Indepedent Mechanism
$150 Pepboys, Goodyear, Most Full Service Tire shops (full garage, not just tires)
$200 High Price Limit
$250 Dealer Labor

Doing this job at home is not that hard, though the passenger side axle has some challenges. Driver's side is easier.
1. Loosen Wheel Lognuts (break free, leave in place)
2. Chalk rear tires with wheel chalks or wood. (Harbor Freight sells wheel chars for $6). And tools ($15), and stands ($35).
3. Jack car (floor jack, use front cross member, there is a jack bulge that is obvious)
(tire jack. Use on side crimp, at the side crimp cutout behind front tires.
4. Place jack stands. Lower onto jack stands.
5. Use jack's lugwrech to remove lug nuts completely, remove wheel and tire.
5. Use C-clamp to compress outside break pad to back of caliper. (This makes slack in the caliper making it easier to remove.)
If no C-clamp, use a screwdriver, and wedge it between steel and out break pad for the same purpose.
6. Remove rear caliper bracket bolts with entire caliper and pad assembly. Slides off rotor if the pad has been loosened. Can "knock" off with hammer if the pad has not been loosened in step 5. Have a wire hanger around, and pull to a double, bend both ends, and use as a hanger to hang the caliper out of the way from the struct spring there in front of you. (Do not let the caliper hang from its rubber hose.)
7. Remove the rotor. If you are luck, its loose and you just pull it straight off. If not lucky, then back it with a hammer in the center part (just for shock. You are hammering "IN", even though you will remove "OUT", at the center, not on the pad/rotor surface. Bang it a lot with the hammer until the shokc loosens up the rust that is holding it place. The rotor rusts, against the aluminum hub, and forms sort of a rust glue. Several wacks with the hammer will usually free it up.
8. Remove Anti-lock break sensor from wheel knuckle. This is the "electric code" like wire that ends in a plastic or steel plug with a 12mm wrench cutout on it. Spray some WD40 or PBBlaster on it, and then unbolt it. The wiggle pull, wiggle pull, until it comes out of the hole it is shoved into in the wheel knuckle. Just allow the sensor to hang on the wire, or if very caution oriented, put a plastic sandwich bag on it, and twist on a bag close.
9. Remove axle cotter pin, just outside of the Axle nut.
10. Remove the axle nut. This is easiest done with a battery or air powered impact wrench. Lacking those, a large breaker bar is needed, and the appropriate large socket for your axle nut. Large sockets are available Ala-Cart at Autozone and Oreilly's, and Napa, etc.
11. Remove the strut cross mount bolts and nuts (two of them) that hold the strut to the wheel knucle. No precautions need be taken here.
12. Use a large screwdriver or small crowbar to wedge the struct out of the wheel knuckle.
13. Push the axle through the wheel knuckle (inward) as far as it will go. It may not go all the way.
14. Turn the wheel knuckle outward (if needed, turn your steering wheel), and push axle through the knuckle. The axle will go through, but you will have to rreposition the CV joint nearest the wheel and pull on the knucle, and push and prod to get the axle end tip to clear the knuckle.
15. Be careful with the CV joint bladder cover if you are keeping the CV joint. Otherwise, don't worry about it. (e.g. don't tear it, or tear it more if you intend to keep it for some reason.)
16. Unbolt the inner mount screws on the CV axle at the mid-point support. These are idiotically inside-out bolts. Both are very difficult to get at, particularly on the CA version of the Maxima (it has a second Catilytic converter on each bank that is in the way.) I have found a long thin ratchet, with a low-profile socket on it works best. (Harbor Freight ($20), long thin double ended ratchet, Oreilly Auto, has a nice low profile socket set $15). Thin "service" wrench can also work if they are not too thick at the opening.
17. Once unbolted, top bottom side. (3 bolts) Then, use a crowbar to work out the axle from the mid-point mount. (Many youtube vids).
18. Once it moves some, then grab axle and just "yank it out".

Installation is the Reverse Accept ALSO:
a. Put grease on the outside of the midpoint bracket before install, so it will slip into the break easier.
b. Put grease on the axle end, so it will mate with the wheel hub easily, and not rust over time.
c. Be careful when inserting the inner end back into the tramission transaxle (differential) and try not to rub the rubber seal there, its fragile, and if you tear it, then you have to replace that, and its hard to get to, especially on the CA version.
d. Eyeball the spleens on the axle, and the transmission using a flashlight. Try to get close to lined up as you insert. Then turn gently until you can feel the spleens seat. Once partially seated, then sort of "ram" it in with your HANDS. There is a C-clip at the ends of the axle that needs to seat properly to "lock" (lightly lock it in. Its not really "in" until that clip seats. DO NOT EVER USE A HAMMER! If you bend your meting spleens in the transmission differential cause you used a hammer, you will be new transmission service sorry. NO HAMMERS!.

Otherwise reverse steps.
Pull the knuckle down and back as much as you can, and bend the CV joint at the wheel knuclke, to get the axle end into the wheel knuckle.
Turns the hub to seat the splines.
Push the knuckle up to push the axle through more.
Use a jack under the wheel hub to jack it up a bit so that you can line up the strut bolts. Get them as close as you can, hand inserted is best, but sometimes close and a hammer is what it takes to drive the bolts through.
Finish reversing steps.

HIGHLY recommend a torque wrench for the axle nut. You need a BIG one for this nut, as it is 200 ft. lbs. of torque. (A LOT). Min is 190 ft. lbs, and max is 210 ft. lbs. (That is NOT inch pounds, its ft. pounds.)

1st timer can do it in 3 hours.
Experiences person can do it in 30 minutes.

Great comment, so detailed) I also can add TeddyNissan site, a few times I found cheap parts for my car there.
Best wishes, Jackson