how do you remove the crankshaft from the vg30dett

Post by **phanatikz32** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 9:00 am

i took off the cradle already but i cant figure out how to get the crankshaft out.

Post by **krdk** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 9:57 am

did you unbolt the connecting rods from the crank? i know its kind of a newb question but i have to ask.

Post by **phanatikz32** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 10:08 am

the pistons and rods have been removed

Post by **mtcookson** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 10:16 am

You'll also need to remove the oil pump and the rear main seal plate and it should come right out.

Post by **phanatikz32** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 11:07 am

Post by **mtcookson** » Tue Feb 10, 2009 12:56 pm

For the oil pump you'll need to remove the timing belt sprocket then just unbolt the pump and slide off.

The rear main seal plate is just a few bolts and it will pop off. It is sealed on there with silicone so may take light prying to pop it off.

Post by **phanatikz32** » Wed Feb 11, 2009 9:01 am

how do i get the timing belt sprocket off, i rented the sprocket tool from autozone but it was way too big, the claws couldnt get behind the sprocket to push it forward...

Post by **bimrtech** » Wed Feb 11, 2009 10:25 am

The sprocket will pull off, may need a little help with a flat head, but most just pull of with your fingers. Then take the oil pump off. You do not need a gear puller for this sprocket. The one you have is for a pressed on gear like on a small block chevy.

When you took the pistons out, did you make triple sure that the studs on the rods did not come in contact with the crank journals or the cylinder walls? Use fuel hose over the studs to help in assembly and removal.

Post by **phanatikz32** » Wed Feb 11, 2009 2:01 pm

i pulled the **** out of that sprocket and it wont come off, i'm not sure what you mean by it will slide off with your fingers, i tried wedging a screwdriver behind but it does not come off. i dont want to bend the washer behind it but i have been prying at it very hard and it doesnt move. and the rods did touch the cylinder walls when i removed the pistons but it wasnt they were grinding against it they just brushed it when i was pulling out the pistons but how am i supposed to keep that from happening?

Post by **mtcookson** » Wed Feb 11, 2009 7:54 pm

Its very common for those things to rust in place. I would try soaking in some PB Blaster or similar over night then try pulling on it again. If it doesn't come off after that you're probably going to want to cut it off. If you pry on it the wrong way you can harm the crank snout which will then force you to get a new crank (been there... done that... ).

They are pretty cheap to replace so don't worry a whole lot about cutting it off if you have to.

Post by **andrewhuffman** » Thu Mar 19, 2009 6:46 pm

bimrtech wrote:The sprocket will pull off, may need a little help with a flat head, but most just pull of with your fingers. Then take the oil pump off. You do not need a gear puller for this sprocket. The one you have is for a pressed on gear like on a small block chevy.

When you took the pistons out, did you make triple sure that the studs on the rods did not come in contact with the crank journals or the cylinder walls? Use fuel hose over the studs to help in assembly and removal.

BS!i've have never, or even heard of anyone pulling that sprocket off by hand.

I got mine buy making a simple tool.

1. buy a pitman arm puller.2. grind the arms thin to fit behind the gear.3. remove thrust bearing for more clearance.4. pull gear off.

other than that, you'll have to cut it off.

Post by **bimrtech** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 2:56 pm

andrewhuffman wrote:BS!i've have never, or even heard of anyone pulling that sprocket off by hand.

I got mine buy making a simple tool.

1. buy a pitman arm puller.2. grind the arms thin to fit behind the gear.3. remove thrust bearing for more clearance.4. pull gear off.

other than that, you'll have to cut it off.

Funny, I could not count the number front crank seals I have replaced on VG powered cars trucks and minivans during timing belt changes. I worked at a Nissan dealership for several years, as well as a Nissan independent shop. But I don't know what I am talking about????B.S. eh???

Post by **33siae** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 4:58 pm

Im not really shure how to post on this site ....maybe some one ca help me my pathfinder is dieing ......I been working on my timeing belt for about 4 days now 40 hours... I have followed all manul derections ...all the punch marks are lined up, my distributor is set on cylinder 1 , spark plugs are out ..evry time I spin the crank around twice it gos out of line and i dont understand ...it gos off by a tooth or more ...??? some point me the right derection , what am I doing wrong...

Post by **mtcookson** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 5:09 pm

That's perfectly normal. It takes something like 30 rotations for the timing marks on the belt to line up with the timing marks on the sprockets. As long as the timing marks on the sprockets line up every time it will be fine.

Post by **33siae** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 6:38 pm

ok the dots line up the spark plugs back in , fire the motor up and it shake bad ....I still dont know what im doing wrong ... the distributor is in the correct position ....

Post by **mtcookson** » Mon Mar 23, 2009 8:49 am

Most like the shaking is from a miss due to ignition or fuel. How is the condition of the spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor? If any are quite aged or even questionable I would replace them. If they are all new or you know aren't that old I would start looking at the fuel system.

You'll want to check the injectors to make sure all are operating correctly. An easy way would be to listen to each injector while the engine is running with a stethoscope or even a long screwdriver or extension. Make sure they all have even pulses and all sound relatively the same to each other. You can also check the resistance of each injector with a multimeter. All of them should be between 12 and 14 ohms.

You'll surely find the problem between those two. Let me know how it goes!

Post by **bimrtech** » Mon Mar 23, 2009 4:31 pm

Hey man, after you rotate the crank twice, all you should worry about is making the punch marks line up. The white lines painted on the belt like mtcookson said will no longer line up. My other suggestion is make sure the belt on the side without the tensioner is tight prior to rotating the crank. When installing the belt only have slack on the tensioner side. Even the slightest amount of slack on the opposite side can cause the belt to be a tooth off as you will turn the crank a few degrees prior to the cam actually turning.

Follow mtcookson's advise for solving the misfire. The only other suggestion I would make would be to remove a spark plug wire one at a time from the plug while the engine is running. You should hear a defined idle/change in sound. Do this for each plug one at a time then plug back in. If you remove a wire and you do not hear a change in idle, you have found your dead cylinder. Could be ignition ( cap rotor wire plug) fuel (injector not clicking can confirm with screwdriver on injector handle end in ear trick or test/noid light ) or air (compression etc...for that cylinder) good luck and let us know what you find!

Post by **33siae** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 7:34 am

it sounds like the head ...... its loud

Post by **mtcookson** » Fri Mar 27, 2009 6:37 am

There's a noise coming from the head? Is it a tapping noise? It could be the lifters, which if that is the case they'll pump back up themselves. If I remember correctly Nissan recommends the engine be run at 1000 rpm for a few minutes to get them pumped back up correctly.

Post by **33siae** » Fri Mar 27, 2009 11:12 am

it was the head , I bent one of the valves during the instalation of the timing belt .... due to positioning the tensioner wrong it went off a tooth or so and damage the head ..... so as of now it's a parts car .....

how do you remove the crankshaft from the vg30dett

how do you remove the crankshaft from the vg30dett

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vg30e 1992 pathfinder motor

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