high operating / coolant temps? s13 *LONG* need input

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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ANVIL
Posts: 1133
Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2007 11:36 am
Car: RB25DET S13.5
Location: Alaska

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So ive had my swap a few yrs now but I haven't ever drove it as much as did this summer. After searching im sure my RB runs hotter than what others motors are running at normally. I have an s1 rb25 in my s13. Freddy manifold, nismo tstat, pignose with the holes cut out, 1 12 and 1 10" efan pushing through a mishinoto s13 alum rad. One is wired to come on with ignition and the other comes on at about 82C IIRC with a fan controller. I normally only drive to work and back with it where its all highway and only 1 stop light for a short 15min drive so most the time I dont have any worries. But if im out cruising or driving to the local track (45 min hwy drive) id say I normally see 90-96c- occasionally it will slowly creep to like 105c.. ive see it go to 108 once and right as I was about to pull over the temp dropped . It gets me worried but then always seems to finally cool down eventually and goes back into the 80s only to creep back up if im still driving . Ive tried multiple times to bleed it with the front end jacked up. Jack up, rad cap off, let it run for 30 min or so with a coolant fill funnel, shut off. Let completely cool and do it again. Ive done that method recently, with heater off, on low and on full blast. Ive flushed it multiple times and currently have amsoil coolant additive cant get any lower temps. When idling even for 30+ min it will never get past 85c. Im considering either doing a hood vent with the back of the hood spaced/propped up or adding a scoop or cutting hood vents around the exhaust manifold / turbo area but I hate both looks so im very hesitant to that. When I drive the cluster temp gauge never goes past the middle but I always monitor with my PFC readings and from what Ive read online im running pretty hot. I even live in alaska where its normally 55-75deg F out.

I dont even know what to do next.... whats your guys opinion? Im worried all the time driving it and usually will have the heater on even it its hot out to help keep the temps down. I feel like its something that still needs to be addressed but not sure... thanks in advance


gawdzilla
Posts: 2028
Joined: Sat Sep 18, 2004 11:51 am
Car: none

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do you have the undertray? add some ducting and shrouding for the radiator.

pullers work better than pushers, and if you can fit it run the clutch fan.

don't space up the windshield side of the hood. that only helps when you're not moving

zjackkktmat
Posts: 1
Joined: Wed Aug 27, 2014 11:05 am

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HI,
I am new in forum sites. I want to help you and solve your problem but sorry I have no any idea about this. But I suggest you to meet with an expert who can solve your problem.
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classified website

User avatar
ANVIL
Posts: 1133
Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2007 11:36 am
Car: RB25DET S13.5
Location: Alaska

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gawdzilla wrote:do you have the undertray? add some ducting and shrouding for the radiator.

pullers work better than pushers, and if you can fit it run the clutch fan.

don't space up the windshield side of the hood. that only helps when you're not moving
No undertray... U have pic examples of one? Or ducting/shrouding you recommend? I cant fit the fans as pullers but I can definitely feel the air move through the radiator pretty well.

I was leaning more toward some kinda scoop/vent vs the space windshield anyway but I feel like I shouldn't have to.. I know theres plenty of you guys who are running in the right range without it.

Im also thinking of throwing the fan clutch on, I have it some where I know but id have to do fabbing to get it to fit which id rather not do either. Id be more willing to if I got higher temps at idles. I would hate to do it and not see results... I barely get chances to work on my car. Work FT/OT, business owner with 2 locations and I got 3 kids... my 2 youngest are 1 and 2 so my spare time is precious lol.

It just seems like theres something im over looking engine wise perhaps. But I dont see any leaks ever... and the track I go to are very strict on leak inspections as well. I mean when driving its more load but also way more air. The pignose vents made a big difference initially.

Yellow4g63
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Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 6:07 pm
Car: 95 Nissan RB20 240SX RB20
91 Nissan NX2000 VE power
95 Nissan 240SX Stock
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Try installing a breather tank 1st see if that helps. If that doesn't help then find the fan clutch and make it fit. Your temps are high, My temps while driving around are 88c and if I beat it hard it goes close to 90c but never past it. radiator-breather-woo-hooo-t408828.html

User avatar
ANVIL
Posts: 1133
Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2007 11:36 am
Car: RB25DET S13.5
Location: Alaska

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^Thanks! Never even knew these existed smh.

Looking into it and probably have one ordered over the weekend. Just one question, I was reading up on the installs and looks like I need to T the lower rad hose (anyone know what size the hose is?) And also it says one goes to bleeder screw.. greddy / freddy doesn't have one so where would be the best place for that?

Yellow4g63
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Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 6:07 pm
Car: 95 Nissan RB20 240SX RB20
91 Nissan NX2000 VE power
95 Nissan 240SX Stock
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http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=302069

I have a 20 so I just one of the hoes going up to the head.

User avatar
ANVIL
Posts: 1133
Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2007 11:36 am
Car: RB25DET S13.5
Location: Alaska

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Ok got a breather tank and lower hose adapter coming. Only thing im unsure is where to hook the line that's supposed to go to a bleeder valve :confused: what would be considered the highest point with out having to drill one on a freddy manifold...?

Yellow4g63
Posts: 3718
Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2003 6:07 pm
Car: 95 Nissan RB20 240SX RB20
91 Nissan NX2000 VE power
95 Nissan 240SX Stock
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You might have to tap a fitting like that guy did in the link on Zilvia.


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