HELP M35x stranded me (how to bypass brake interlock switch?)

[Parched]

Help.

I'm home but my car (2008 M35x) is in a random parking lot. It appears the brake interlock switch has failed. Plenty of battery, but the push button cycles between Acc, On, and Off, as if the brake pedal is not being depressed. It sees the key because it tells me most helpfully to depress the brake and press the button.

I do NOT want to have the car towed across town to the dealer. They weren't helpful because they aren't knowledgeable. But if there is no way to bypass this switch, I can try to replace it where it sits. Anyone ever do that?

There is an obvious switch that ties into the brake pedal and it has a 2-wire connector right on the front. To get it home or to the dreaded dealer, do you think just shorting these two contacts would enable the car to start? Or could this potentially damage the electronics?

This is really annoying.
Thanks for any advice!
Dan

[Ilya]

Welcome to the forum.

I know of the switch on the brake pedal...but I don't know if it' s the interlock switch. If I recall they are relatively cheap...might be worth just swapping it out and seeing if the issue is fixed and if not returning it.

[Parched]

Thanks. I am taking that route. The dealer wants $55 for that simple switch. I thought about looking at 3rd party suppliers but it was already 3:00pm and they said they could combine it with an overnight shipment at no charge, so I can have it tomorrow. Since my beloved car is spending the night in a random parking lot, I decided this was the way to go.

In order to protect really dull people from hurting themselves when starting their cars, we must accept this kind of safety feature. To a person with common sense, it's just a bit frustrating that there's no bypass, as there is with the transmission lock.

If the car turns into a brick, instantly, when they break, you would think dealers would make sure to have those parts in stock. Of course, they would prefer I hire a tow truck to deliver the car into their $100 an hour clutches, I'm sure.

If I can get the thing installed, and it starts, I'll be happy. Even for $55.

[EdBwoy]

...
There is an obvious switch that ties into the brake pedal and it has a 2-wire connector right on the front. To get it home or to the dreaded dealer, do you think just shorting these two contacts would enable the car to start? Or could this potentially damage the electronics?
...

A little late in joining the party, but shorting those wires would be a reasonable and safe troubleshooting step. The car should start. These are like what, 20 GA wires? The switch is a discrete on/off.
Installation would be pretty easy as well, I haven't gotten to do it to the y50 in particular, but if my experience is anything to go by, it will be threaded into a slotted bracket. The trickiest part was getting it in just the right depth so the brake signal isn't too finicky and aligns well with the cruise control switch (infiniti i35 and maximas).
Sorry for the misfortune, and let us know how it goes.

[Costee]

@Parched. Is the interlocking switch the same as the one the referred to by Ilya? The one mentioned by Ilya is the stop lamp switch. It costs less than $5 and you'd require two of them.

[Ilya]

@Parched. Is the interlocking switch the same as the one the referred to by Ilya? The one mentioned by Ilya is the stop lamp switch. It costs less than $5 and you'd require two of them.

Might be different then...but I'm going off of Maxima (another Nissan product) experience...I know that if the brake pedal switch (which does control the lights as you say) is faulty...there are issues with the system. I was kind of assuming it's the same in the newer Infiniti's.

[ArmedAviator]

Do your brake lights come on when you press the brake? I'd not than ours probably that simple $5 pedal switch that drives both the lights and start interlock.

[Parched]

Well I changed out the upper (4-wire switch) and nothing changed. Held the plunger in and tried the start button, and then let it out and tried, no difference. I disconnected the lower (2-wire) switch, no difference. I shorted the 2 leads going to the lower switch and then tried, and no difference. It just cycles between Acc and On and Off.

Not sure what's left to fiddle with?

[Parched]

Costee - why two of them? There is only one dealer in this state (NM) and they order things in as needed (little stock on hand). I see the 4-wire switch I just replaced on rockauto.com but no mention of the 2-wire switch.

At this point I really need to get the car home, at a minimum. This is where the fun stops.

[ArmedAviator]

Are you sure that it's the BOO switch/interlock and not a bad starter/solenoid?

[Parched]

Are you sure that it's the BOO switch/interlock and not a bad starter/solenoid?

I guess it just seemed so likely it was the switch, I didn't ponder that. The car doesn't make a sound when you push 'start'. Not a click or whir. Never heard an unusual sound from the starter before. My recollection of my bad starters (ancient, computer-free cars) is that they go a little at a time, failing, working, failing etc., as opposed to "it started five minutes ago, to total silence."

What's a starter/solenoid test that doesn't require removing it and delivering it somewhere?

Sorry. I'm not a habitual mechanic. Just an emergency one.

[Parched]

Epilogue

A fellow approached me on behalf of the shopping center where my car was parked, and expressed a desire that I move the vehicle by the end of the day. So I threw in the towel and had the car towed for service.

Thanks to all who pitched in, or just followed the thread.

[Ilya]

Sucks it ended up that way.

But did the brake lights ever work when you pushed the brake pedal? Or hard to know...curious about that.

[Costee]

Costee - why two of them? There is only one dealer in this state (NM) and they order things in as needed (little stock on hand). I see the 4-wire switch I just replaced on rockauto.com but no mention of the 2-wire switch.

At this point I really need to get the car home, at a minimum. This is where the fun stops.

Sorry, sort of got things mixed up. I erroneously adverted to the two sockets to which was fixed the stop lamp and ASCD Cancel switches. I support the suggestion that the starter might be the culprit. Usually when the stop lamp goes bad (i.e,, not coming on) the effect is on the shift lever not moving from park. Hope you get it sorted out fast.

[ArmedAviator]

A solenoid can just suddenly go bad. If it did fail, it'd simply not do anything. No click, no starter engagement or rotation, just silence.

I've had it in the past on a van where I had to crawl underneath, hit it with a hammer, and then it'd start.

[Parched]

The problem turned out to be the failure of an aftermarket alarm/remote start system the previous owner had installed, and I never used or even though about. I wouldn't have found that in a year.

I won't turn this into one of those I-guess-I-was-lucky stories, but the dealer hit me for about $300 to remove it and restore the wiring to original, and at least the car is exonerated in terms of being flaky etc. My car is back in the garage where she belongs.

Interestingly, the exact same scenario played out with an Acura Legend I owned about ten years ago (although it didn't disable the car--it just started going off for no reason.) Why do people take perfectly good cars to "the home of the $1 install" hustlers?

[Costee]

The problem turned out to be the failure of an aftermarket alarm/remote start system the previous owner had installed, and I never used or even though about. I wouldn't have found that in a year.
I won't turn this into one of those I-guess-I-was-lucky stories, but the dealer hit me for about $300 to remove it and restore the wiring to original...

Still, all's well that ends well.