H-tech on X

[TDot]

Since nobody on htech driving an X has reported back about their h-tech ride, this is my feedback.

As good as stock and I'm on 20s and can say for certain my ride is as good as 19s on stock spring. I don't remember what 18s were like, but I don't remember feeling a difference when I went from 18 to 19. Also note, I did buy new struts, my old struts weren't bad but I decided since I was going to go lower I needed my struts to have a little more resistance. I think I bottomed out twice the first two days. I have actually tried to bottom out on bigger bumps and faster since then and have been unable to, so it might have been my mind playing tricks on me.

I didn't put in the rear springs, I'm still debating it, and I do have the spc arms on the front.

Will follow up in three months.

[jiggersplat]

Thanks for the info... my 20's are in the mail and teins & spcs will be ordered within the month.

FYI I had a computer installed in my old corolla.... android tablet in the M.

[svard75]

Neat! We should add this to the compatibility thread if it works out. Interesting you only have the front springs on? Can you post a side shot?

[TDot]

I'll have a pic by Mon.

[mexillis]

Nice write up, did you take a before and after height measurement? I havent seen any of the springs for them M "not work" if you have the X version. All of them have different spring rates and amounts of drop is the only thing making them different. It comes down to what look you are going for and how low you want to go.

[TDot]

It dropped the exact amount they said it would, 1.5".

Oddly, seeing the picture makes the difference stand out. There doesn't seem to be that much difference when looking at it in person.

[fat3oy]

how is the damper and spring rates tdot? I'm considering selling these over eibach - and do not have a set handy.

[svard75]

It dropped the exact amount they said it would, 1.5".

Oddly, seeing the picture makes the difference stand out. There doesn't seem to be that much difference when looking at it in person.

It's not too bad. What about the ride difference?

[TDot]

how is the damper and spring rates tdot? I'm considering selling these over eibach - and do not have a set handy.

I'm not quite sure what you mean about the damper. I though dampers were a principle of the struts. The springs rate seems great. They are soft when they need to be, and hard when they need to be to keep the car riding smooth. There are points where I swear they should bottom out but the spring rate is just right to prevent it. All of that taking in to consideration my perception and driving habits will be different from yours. Rebounding from a compressed state happens very smoothly.

What about the ride difference?

I kind of think its better than it was. But I don't know if its because of the springs or the struts are new. But taking the bumps seem a little smoother and softer...not like Lexus, but better than it was.

[TDot]

So I think it finally dawned on me why all of a sudden I saw a dramatic difference in the rear height after I took a pic vs previously just eye balling it. Gas tank load.

I recently filled up the tank 16 gallons/133lbs and the car sat perfectly even when I looked at it later. I'm thinking what the hell is wrong with my eyes, is the car on an incline that I'm not seeing, or is my mind playing tricks on me because at the time I didn't put two and two together. Three days later the back was sitting higher again and the gas tank thought struck me. I'm now at roughly 11 gallons/91lbs. I'm going to fill it again in a few days and see if it levels off again and decide on dropping the back based on that.

I guess my question from this would be is the spring stiffness/strength on the tein harder to compensate for the shorter height which will make it better resist the load of the gas tank. Basically would the rear sag on a full tank, or will it resist the extra 133lbs?

[jiggersplat]

The spring rate should be higher than stock.

[TDot]

The spring rate should be higher than stock.

So then I won't experience a sag because of a full tank? Cool.

Have you put yours on yet?

[svard75]

Good for you for putting SPC arms on at the same time as lowering. The ride will be better and you won't wear your tires incorrectly. I need new tires next season and will definitely throw on the spcs in the front. BTW there are now other brands such as kinetic that have the right ballpoint attachment for our cars. Plus there's a rear toe and replacement for true coil overs that replaces the rear bucket spring arm.

[TDot]

No bueno for the rear springs. I guess the rear on the X is way heavier than the base model. And the tank is a little less than half full smh. I think I have about 40-50lbs in the trunk and this isn't even settled, about 20 min. after the drop.

I guess I got to put the stock back on the rear.

[jiggersplat]

No bueno for the rear springs. I guess the rear on the X is way heavier than the base model. And the tank is a little less than half full smh. I think I have about 40-50lbs in the trunk and this isn't even settled, about 20 min. after the drop.
I guess I got to put the stock back on the rear.

That's weird... you wouldn't think the rear would be any heavier... the front I understand, but rear?

[TDot]

I'm wondering if the rubber boot is thicker on the standard, or other parts sit higher on the standard instead of the rear of the X being heavier; because it doesn't make sense to me either.

[fat3oy]

Rear is heavier on the AWDs...

Also - after install the car will sit higher until the springs are settled - kind of like broken in...

You will eventually get sag - but it will take a while for that. The rear fenders are odd when dropping the car - it will appear lower in the rear, but actually level - so dont let your eyes play tricks on you... I run a slight rake because I can't get over that fact lol.

And my question on dampening...

Hard turns does the car immediately return to level or is there a noticeable transition... Is it bouncy at all going over less than smooth terrain?

[TDot]

Wow, I never would have thought that. I would have thought all the extra weight would be from the engine. Well, back to stock on the rear springs because when this sags more I'll be pissed. Yeah, I'm not so concerned with actually being leveled vs it looking level, I want equal gap front and back or the back slightly higher. Besides, the raked look is kind of sporty...that's what I have to tell myself now lol.

After a turn it's immediate. I would even say it's more balanced than stock in turns. No bouncing over bad roads...not that I've pushed it beyond "normal" driving, I really try to avoid bad roads or taking rough roads hard since I got the new wheels.

[TDot]

Tein told me it's like this because I didn't preload it first. I don't understand how that would change this because it's simply the spring sitting in a perch.
This is what they sent me: http://teinusa-blog.com/applying-suspension-preload/
I simply raised the perch back up and aligned it to put the bolt through like everyone else. I've never seen anything anywhere else about preloading independent spring and strut. Opinions?

Edit:
I looked in the FSM (pg 15 of RSU) and it says nothing about preloading the rear, as far as I understand it at least.


Is the lower link the spring perch?

[svard75]

Hey fatboy, what makes you think the rear of an AWD is heavier? The transaxle is in the middle and front axle, diff in the front. I guess the transaxle adds a bit but then again our drives haft is shorter too.

[fat3oy]

Hey fatboy, what makes you think the rear of an AWD is heavier? The transaxle is in the middle and front axle, diff in the front. I guess the transaxle adds a bit but then again our drives haft is shorter too.

I didnt mean heavier than the front - sorry - I meant than the rwd models... BUT the center of balance is horrid back to front... the a** hangs out about a foot more than the front over the axle bias - hence the question on dampening as the lever action I would imagine would cause a bit of rebound. If you get the chance to find some corner weight scales - you'll see that the center of gravity is jacked.

With TCS off does the car squat like a rwd - before atessa?

[fat3oy]

ALSO did you adjust to neutral camber??? That can affect wheel gap a ton... and dropping forces some negative camber.

[TDot]

No I didn't touch the camber. If I touch it it will bring the wheel closer to the fender if I want to put it to spec.

Anyone know about strut spacers and if that's a good idea for this, or should I just put the stocks back on? If the strut spacers are a good idea, where can I get them for this car? I did a search and can't come up with any.

Edit:
Or coil spacer?

[svard75]

You mean coil spacers right? I've used them in a previous life to lower the car. Better than cutting springs I heard. I don't think it would be too much of a problem to use them. They have two types:

1. Clamp based. These are decent but I question how they react when full suspension extension. They may move around (Not good). http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/4 ... AA300_.jpg

2. Rubber coil spacer. These may be a better option. They sit between the coils and appear fairly safer http://image.hotrod.com/f/30658977+w660 ... prings.jpg

Actually the more I look at your picture the more it looks fairly level to me. Like fatboy said the rear fenders are lower making it appear like more tuck. Didn't you have coilovers?

[svard75]

Tein told me it's like this because I didn't preload it first. I don't understand how that would change this because it's simply the spring sitting in a perch.
This is what they sent me: http://teinusa-blog.com/applying-suspension-preload/
I simply raised the perch back up and aligned it to put the bolt through like everyone else. I've never seen anything anywhere else about preloading independent spring and strut. Opinions?

Edit:
I looked in the FSM (pg 15 of RSU) and it says nothing about preloading the rear, as far as I understand it at least.


Is the lower link the spring perch?

LOL. Wow TIEN support is brilliant. Preload is for a coilover setup not a spring by itself.

[svard75]

I dug this out for a 2010 from here http://www.m35forum.com/specs/2010-M-specs.pdf

AWD 54/46 weight distribution
Curb weight 4,027 lb
Wheelbase 114.2 in
Length 192.9 in
Width 70.8 in
Height 57.7 in

STD 53/47 weight distribution
Curb weight 3,864 lb
Wheelbase 114.2 in
Length 192.6 in
Width 70.8 in
Height 59.4 in

I think your issue is the AWD sits higher and I'm willing to bet the AWD front spring perch is higher than the RWD. These springs were designed for the RWD so it sits flat. Even the ever so slight differences at the end it equates to what you are seeing. IMO keep the stock springs on the rear and the TIENs in the front. It looks pretty decent.

[TDot]

Well I'm back to rear stock.
Final numbers on all tein on X,

.....From center hub.....
Front: 15"
Rear: 13.75" (and this is only one day settling)
.....From ground.....
Front: 28.50"
Rear: 27" (and this is only one day settling)


Tein said it should be the following (RWD on 08)
.....From center hub.....
Front: 14.37"
Rear: 14.06"
.....From ground.....
Front: 27.32"
Rear: 27.20"

I found an image of a stock rear coil for the RWD and there is an extra 1-1.5 coil on the AWD version. So that's why there is a difference, the rear tein is truly meant for a RWD.

[jiggersplat]

nuts... i guess i'm returning mine and getting coilovers. has anyone checked the OEM part numbers on the rear springs to see if they are different between the models?