was looking around for something to correct the camber on my Z since it is lowered and came across this ebay godspeed kit for a sweet price. Just wondering if anyone has tried it and if the front camber adjustment (+3 or -3) is enough to correct the negative camber you get from lowering a 90 n/a Z with eibach sport/kyb agx combo. Heres a copy paste of the description, Ill leave the link under it. Thanks.

DESCRIPTION: GODSPEED REAR CAMBER ARMS, TOE ARMS, PILLOW TENSION RODS AND TRACTION RODS (FOR 1990-1997 NISSAN 300ZX Z32)

-CAMBER ARM $120 msrp (fully adjustable to +5 to -5 degree)

-TOE ARM $120 msrp (fully adjustable)

-REAR TRACTION RODS $120 msrp (adjustable up to -3 to +3 degree)

-PILLOW TENSION RODS $120 msrp (fully adjustable)

get it all at package deal price


5 years warranty on all parts!!

perfect for street, ready for tracks!! this is a must have package for all the 300ZX fanatics, all the suspension parts u need to complete your next project.

ALL ITEMS ARE BRAND NEW

link::http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-91-97 ... ear%3A1990

Maybe not related, but look for B4CH`s post about his Z being down for some time, hes got that setup, Im not saying is bad n I saw it when we tried to put it in, looks nice but just so you know... look at those pictures and report back.

Those Godspeed camber kits are pretty nice to have and it makes the job so much easier for alignment guys. And if your OEM bushing are bad, they are definitely a good, cheap replacement.

On performance wise, I'm not sure what to say cuz they are not supposed to make you feel like you can take that corner faster than you could without them. They are not like, tower bar, sway bars or roll cage. However, they can prevent your wheels from running negative camber, which in turn, decrease traction of tires on the street / track ...

And FYI, I bought the same package you posted. And they dont include front upper control arm. Just buy an ajustable one with any brand for the lowest price, I wouldn't worry about that part being broken. I think I made a good investment, someone else (who havn't never tried them) could argue other wise.

gbeto60 seriously dude, ur still going to blame the failure on the cheap parts? Did you not notice in his pictures that the part was bent and still had the bolts attached with nuts? Did you also not notice that the tension rod was bent not broken from the failure of the tire? How about the fact that the bolts were ripped clean out of the factory LCA? Me thinks that those few facts right there would be good enough to say that the Godspeed stuff is quality enough to tear the s*** out of OEM parts all day long. OP, if its not in ur budget to get more expensive parts try what you want and prove to all these people on here that they are just as good as the rest of the aftermarket. I do believe B4CH did prove something with his post though...

z32pilot62 wrote: I do believe B4CH did prove something with his post though...

Yub, cheappo Sportmax wheels and Godspeed suspension saved my a**

In the long run, you'll end up buying arms again because those heim joints will not last.
Over 3 years of street and track abuse on my arms and no problems whatsoever. Quality parts work right now and years down the road.

I know thread resurrection but I wanted to give vulcanrush a chance to look at pictures since they are self explanatory and show him how cheap parts suck. If you look at the pics of Initial R's wreck you will notice that his factory suspension got hella f*** by some cheap parts that only bent, did not break, they bent...

Okay so I was doing some trollin around on the 240 forums and came across a build where a guy had the same suspension kit just for a 240. He went to several drift events, went off the track many times and kept having his rear wheel wobble... Well on page 16 and his post on December 3rd you can look at the picture and tell me what the problem was:
blackzenki-s-back-in-black-s14-round-3-t424179-600.html

^^^ So after all that. Anyone want to give this a try ? I know I would if they offered it 3 months ago when i was upgrading my suspension.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-96-30 ... ccessories

ArticDragon192 wrote:In the long run, you'll end up buying arms again because those heim joints will not last.
Over 3 years of street and track abuse on my arms and no problems whatsoever. Quality parts work right now and years down the road.

what kind of arms do you have on your z?
im thinking about getting some camber in my z

Initial R wrote:^^^ So after all that. Anyone want to give this a try ? I know I would if they offered it 3 months ago when i was upgrading my suspension.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-96-30 ... ccessories

I would consider it if I could get them in the same spring rates front and rear, I has a 2+2 so I think it would be more balanced to have it have the same spring rates front and rear. Thats the way arctic has his set up and I think it is probably the way to go with the more 50/50 distribution with the 2+2's.

ArticDragon192 wrote:In the long run, you'll end up buying arms again because those heim joints will not last.
Over 3 years of street and track abuse on my arms and no problems whatsoever. Quality parts work right now and years down the road.

Why not just replace the heim joints rather than replace the whole arm? Im sure you could get a better quality heim joint to replace the ones that come on the arms and as long as the quality of the arm itself is holding up whats the point in buying a whole new one?

ArticDragon192 wrote:In the long run, you'll end up buying arms again because those heim joints will not last.
Over 3 years of street and track abuse on my arms and no problems whatsoever. Quality parts work right now and years down the road.

Amen

putang29 wrote:enough to correct the negative camber you get from lowering a 90 n/a Z with eibach sport/kyb agx combo

Here, I'll save you some dollars. All you need to get your alignment back into spec with those springs is the 300° camber kit.

http://www.importpartspro.com/300defrcacok.html

The rear eccentric bolts have enough adjustment for the lowering.

OEM components are more durable for street use. Adjustable components are best for track use or lowering greater than 0.8 inches.

nuttin but Z32 wrote: what kind of arms do you have on your z?
im thinking about getting some camber in my z

I have Powertrix FUCAs, stock RUCAs, Peak Performance Tension Rods, SPL outer tie rod ends, and Peak Performance rear toe rods. I will be upgrading to Powertrix all around though soon enough.

z32pilot62 wrote: Why not just replace the heim joints rather than replace the whole arm? Im sure you could get a better quality heim joint to replace the ones that come on the arms and as long as the quality of the arm itself is holding up whats the point in buying a whole new one?

You can, but why? When you can just buy right the first time around. Plus, the welds on cheaper components are pretty crappy looking. Little thing here and there make the cheaper products really inferior. Plus, I also believe that someone can get too strong an arm. In a crash, I want the tension rod to be the weak point, not the LCA. If the tension rod can absorb most of the impact and break before transferring that force to the LCA, I can save myself a good amount of cash.
All I'd have to do is buy a new tension rod, whereas if the rod didn't break, I'd most likely need a new LCA, new crossmember, and who knows what else from the steering assembly.

BigTDogg (MA) wrote:
Amen

I'm glad there are some sensible people out there.

Arctic, why did you keep stock rucs? You can't adjust camber with it can you..? Also what did you do for more steering angle. That is always nice.

Lower control arms on the rear have an eccentric bolt for camber don't they?

LIBRILZ wrote:Arctic, why did you keep stock rucs? You can't adjust camber with it can you..? Also what did you do for more steering angle. That is always nice.

es.biggs wrote:Lower control arms on the rear have an eccentric bolt for camber don't they?

Wrong, the stock RUCAs have a slight bit of adjustment through them with an eccentric bolt that slides the arm either in or out to adjust camber. However it is a very small adjustment, which I have maxed out.

I kept the stock RUCAs because I haven't upgraded yet, lol.

For more steering angle, I'm running Z33 Tein inner tie rods, Tein tie rod spacers, and SPL outer tie rod ends.

With those additions to steering angle, would you say it's widely noticaeable and helps alot?

Yeah. No more 3 point turns and less spinning out at the track. Unless you're drifting though, there really is no need for the extra steering angle. For road racing you shouldn't be at at full lock anyways.

I plan in the near future to slide the 2+0, wish me goodluck as it seems all it wants to do is spin out and do 180s lol..even when it was an auto, not that I tried drifting it as an auto, i didn't, but if you goosed it and turned that is what you would get lol. My friend's 240s are so predictable, not that im jealous or envious that he can just slide the car and have it straighten right up, I'm just saying makes things easier.


well you know all this anyway, what about the diff? What shouldd be done about that? Is the stock one fine?

LIBRILZ wrote:I plan in the near future to slide the 2+0, wish me goodluck as it seems all it wants to do is spin out and do 180s lol..

I noticed that alot about my 2+0 when I had it compared to my 2+2. The 2+0 was real "a** happy" for lack of a better term and my 2+2 is real stable slideways.

Stock one is ok for starting out if it is still locking. Mine VLSD ended up dying on my so I swapped it out for a clutch type 2 way. Drifts sooooo much better. Much more predictable and engages so much faster. Diff and angle mod are probably the two most significant mods you can do for drifting,