I recently purchased an eBay-Generic Boost Controller... The things more sturdy than the borrowed one I was using (old TurboXS) and the set/adjustment screw doesn't un-set it self like mine did. I figured I'd post this along with some pics (hosted on my MySpace), so people have instructions in the future.

I had issues finding out how to hook it up as it came with all the hardware but no instructions. I hooked it up the way I found on a similar auction, it was incorrect, low boost, spiking, and much idiocy. After some searching I found out that the setup is identical (Knock-Off) to the "TurboSmart In-Cabin Kit". I hooked it up that way and am very pleased.



The "T" piece gets spliced in, arrow towards waste-gate, between vacuum source and waste-gate, the "Controller" comes from the Black-Port on the Top of the "T" to the Top-Port (Adjuster end) of "Controller", and just vents to Atmosphere out the Bottom-Port.

The arrows on the thing are completely wrong. After doing some research on how wastegates work and how the check valve is setup (the "T" part). I believe the knock-off company did not actually do the research when they made the stickers. The knock-off "T" has the spring and ball set up a different way then the "TurboSmart" one. In the "TurboSmart" setup the ball is against the inlet side, the knock-off is on the wastegate side. They both function the same, but use different techniques. You can check by blowing through the "T" fitting on the top and seeing where the air comes out... the free flowing side is the wastegate side. Because it does not matter if there is a vacuum leak on the wastegate side as is does not use vacuum pressure.



The idea is under vacuum the ball is pressed against the opening by the spring stopping any air from going to the wastegate or the venting boost controller. And when you have boost, the ball pushes against the spring and moves the ball out of the way allowing the airflow through to the wastgate and boost controller. "TurboXS" used to do this with little rubber gaskets, that when under vacuum seated and sealed and under boost pushed out of the way venting boost pressure. The check valve design also makes it so depending on spring tension (like a BOV or Wastegate spring) it requires a certain amount of boost (pressure against the ball) in order to even let the boost pressure pass by to the wastgate actuator. Making it so the actuator does not creep open before your peak boost.

The entire point of the check valve is to stop you from having a constant vacuum leak to atmosphere when using the Manual Boost Controller.

Hooked up this way the kit works perfectly.

---NOTE---Wastegates work exactly opposite a BOV... but do the same thing.

Wastgates use boost pressure to compress a diaphragm spring rated to compress under a certain amount of load to actuate a valve. IE: When you have positive/boost pressure of 7psi-ish on your vacuum line, a 7psi rated Wastegate actuates and opens the "Wastegate-valve" allowing exhaust gases to bypass the turbo thus creating less boost.

Blow Off Valves use vacuum pressure to suction a diaphragm with a spring rated to compress under a certain amount of load to actuate a valve.IE: When you have negative/vacuum pressure of 7psi-ish on your vacuum line, a 7psi rated BOV (most are more like 17psi rated springs hence the adjuster screw) actuates and opens allowing the excess boost in front of the closed throttle body to be vented without back-flowing into the turbo.

Good product... I have a 240SX with a SR20DET (RedTop S13) running between 7-15psi now depending on my mood. I don't sell these and when I get a electric one it will get put on a shelf as a backup, but for the price it was well worth it. It just goes to show not all cheap-crap on eBay is cheap-crap.
Modified by BobEnigma at 4:01 PM 6/20/2008

So did you actually mount yours in the cabin? I have heard of spiking problems and what not the longer the hose line is...Just curious. Nice write up and research by the way.

i ran mine right up under the steering coloum...no spikey* very sneaky mustangs get 10 /hondas get 12/ just so they get the point!!!

got the same set up did not install yet, does any of the hoses go to the throttle body, if so do you have pics of your set up.

OK... so I actually just edited my post but... The arrows on the thing are completely wrong. After doing some research on how wastegates work and how the check valve is setup (the "T" part).

blah..... Look up I added allot and possibly a digram to explain it. I'll take some engine bay pics at some point maybe as well. And for right now mine is just under the hood, as I plan on getting a eclectic boost controller at some point anyways, and did not have enough line to mount it in car, because I re-ran a few other lines while I was at it.

thats weird you got urs working. i bought one for my bro and it doesnt even work.

You can't hook it up the way "they" say to (if you can find how they say to). My post tells how. Its identical to the TurboSmart kit, but the arrows are all confused. Either way it turns out my wastegate is BORKED... the diaphragm on it is messed up. I tested it today with an air compressor, boost gauge, and TurboNetics wastegate as a comparison.

So... I'm going to buy the HKS 11-14psi replacement one. I was told the stock one goes bad and thats a common symptom. It just defaults to 7psi-9psi because it leaks or something like that.

have the same boost controler have not hooked it up yet do you have pics and where does the blowoff line connect to.

Very helpful install and nice pics/diagrams!

I tapped my BOV off of the Fuel Pressure Regulator (NOW).

I don't have any engine bay pics yet...

but I will soon... because I found out that that clicking noise that has been coming from my car (for a month-ish) was turbo play. Yep that right kiddies when you don't have a BOV connected correctly (hooked it to the lower vacuum port on the throttle body WRONG... no vacuum there), that cool super-seqencial noise is actually your turbo back feeding out your intake... THAT IS BAD. So tonight on my way home while racing a s2000 with a turbo I blew my stock t25... so I'm gonna look into getting a replacement that fits the same as the stock one. I'm poor or Id look into getting something better like a top mount t3-t4. I cant afford the labor to change the pipes and whatnot to make it fit.

I'm calling "Drifttech" (local drift shop) tomorrow to see if the have something I can throw on it for cheap. As it is my daily driver.

Ok, all is fixed now. I got a generic "GodSpeed" t25 turbo, bolted right in after I clocked it to get everything aligned, and after breaking it in have tested the boost controller again... works perfectly fine.

I also learned that you can use it as a non-atmospheric Boost controller by opening the valve all the way and putting it in between the boost source and the wastgate-actuator. It works as a pinch valve and the more you tighten it down the less pressure gets to the actuator. I've found this is more effective and just as easy to control as the other setup, along with eliminating the boost spike that you get with the T-fitting. And because it's not atmospheric bleed of vacuum you don't need the T-fitting to stop the vacuum leak.

THE END

i have just ordered the same one but i have and fmic so i no longer have the nipple for the acuator now where would i hook the vac line to?

Hey man. Ive had one of those kits for awhile now and no matter what I do I dont think its working. Ive tried rotating the "T" piece, and still nothing. Do I need to hook this controller up before or after my boot gauge? And if you could, send me a picture of how you did it, and that would be great. My email address is [email protected] Thanks for doing this man. Later

Will this work the same way as far as hooking it up with an external wastegate?

id never trust one of them... spikes, and BOOM!!...

hey man, first of all great job on the writeup it was very helpful, i was just wondering, i bought a mbc off my buddy who was running it on his mr2 with no problems, however it doesnt have the check valve that you have, just the actual controller with 2 inlets on it.. me and my roomate have been talking and think it should work running it from the wastegate actuator nipple to the intercooler lines, just wondering what you think? and if you would suggest trying to find a check valve?

thanks in advance

That is actually how I ended up setting up mine, no check valve, just in-line.

If you run a Vacuum source line from near the turbo or attached to the turbo, to the MBC (either side), then out to the WasteGate. It works by crimping off the air-flow and thus making it think it's not making as much boost. All the way open is static WasteGate all the way closed is BOOM.

The only problem with this method is that its a very touchy way to adjust boost. There is a fine line between just right (very little air-flow) and BOOM (closed, no air-flow).

If your serious about controlling your boost, get a electric setup or adjustable WasteGate arm. And remember that upping the boost without tuning causes serious problems. The stock RedTop ECU is only good for 13-14PSI-MAX before it runs out of the tuning band. And the injectors and MAF also need to be able to handle it. Don't just up the boost, and once you find a setting stick with it thats why I recommend just getting the adjustable WasteGate. This thread was made just as a reffrence for people that are cheap like me.

I actually just sold my 240SX-SR20DET and am going back to a daily driver and a Track/Project car. Saturn-SC2 on Direct Port Spray/125Wet, 11:1 Compression, Stage 2 Clutch, 1750LBS W/O Driver. It should make about 280Wheel and run high 10-low11 in the 1/4 with tire.

i got the same setup...working perfectly!!!!!!!!!easy to install

but see here is my turbo and there is no pressure valve on the turbo... so what do i hook the pother end into??

well thats not the exact turbo i have... but its a picture of how mine looks.. cuz i dont have that little nipple on the turbo... so whut do i do? ?

anyone? there were lota of responses on it before so why wont anyone give feedback now?

Anywhere on your intercooler piping would work. As long as the line gets direct boost.

so there should be a nipple on the piping? this is my friends sr and the fmic piping was done crappy so i dont knwo if there is somwhere to connec it... but also it should be close to the turbo right?

There should be. If not do it yourself. It doesnt have to be anywhere in particular I put mine closer to make it look cleaner though. If you need me to I can snap a picture of the location of mine.

as for the nipple, check frsport.com. they sell a nipple that is meant to tap into a silicone intercooler coupler. put that on the coupler that connects ur turbo to the IC hotpipe and u got a boost source for ur wastegete/boost controller.

i know ur were mentioning how vaccum is used in those check valves when teeing into the line method is used/ fyi, their is no vacuum in those lines. vacuum isnt created unless u r getting a source from somewhere after the intake manifold. and ive always heard that vacuum shouldnt be applied to wastegate actuators.

but i have had one of those MBC's before and wroked fine for me.

??? could you possibly shoot me some pics of yours on the car? I got that same controller and I want to get it right the first time ,
thanx

bobenigma hasn't been active in a while..

I know this is an old thread but I figured what the hell. So I have the same MBC from ebay and I was having issues setting it up correctly then I found this thread. I went out yesterday and ran everything according to the updated post and I'm still having issues with the boost spiking all over. I started off by running the controller from in the cabin to placing it right by the driver strut to reduce the chance of spiking. The only thing I can think is a bad wastegate. Would that cause it to run wild psi. Or what about boost leaks. Would I have spiking with boost leaks? Thanks for any help.