Does anyone know which power steering bracket is need to go from Active to Std
A B or C
Any input on used power steering lines 90K are acceptable to re-use
Modified by silver2k2 at 10:21 AM 4/26/2007
G50 Which Power Steering Bracket? pics
Re: G50 Which Power Steering Bracket? pics (silver2k2)
Did you ever figure this one out? My mechanic is hesitant to use the standard pump (with active pump pulley) - thinks it can't be done/says he's afraid to cut lines. What's involved?
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maxnix
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Re: G50 Which Power Steering Bracket? pics (tkd_q45)
To retain the active pump, the active line must be looped back to the pump.
Heavier and probably a bit more energy required than the standard pump.
Heavier and probably a bit more energy required than the standard pump.
Maxnix - loop back is in place but I think the line is not being filled enough and is thus burning out the pump. This is the second pump that's gone bad.
I'm wondering if it's not possible to loop back right at the pump instead of having such a long loopback line with the existing plumbing. Does that make sense?
I'm wondering if it's not possible to loop back right at the pump instead of having such a long loopback line with the existing plumbing. Does that make sense?
Re: (tkd_q45)
You need all three brackets and bold that go with them. You cannot use the pulley off the Active pump on the non active pump its totally diffferent. The Active pump is Keyed and the reg one is not
You need to replace all three brackets, the pump, the pulley, and the harmonic balancer, plus the belt.
If possible remove the parts yourself so you know how it goes back together, I bought mine on here and had to figure it out.
You need to replace all three brackets, the pump, the pulley, and the harmonic balancer, plus the belt.
If possible remove the parts yourself so you know how it goes back together, I bought mine on here and had to figure it out.
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3Q Jay
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Re: (tkd_q45)
Tom- do you know if the 'active' line is staying filled up with type-A, or is it leaking out somehow?if it's 'full', then i don't expect that's the problem, but if dry.......
i get your point about keeping the loopback 'tight' to the pump, but that also means less fluid for the system.
if i recall, we left the original active suction hose intact (no cuts). i'm thinking that extending the pump output hose (the one we cut the end off of that used to go to the main output accum) all the way back to your active reservoir would be a better approach. then it could run with say a liter of fluid in circulation.
i get your point about keeping the loopback 'tight' to the pump, but that also means less fluid for the system.
if i recall, we left the original active suction hose intact (no cuts). i'm thinking that extending the pump output hose (the one we cut the end off of that used to go to the main output accum) all the way back to your active reservoir would be a better approach. then it could run with say a liter of fluid in circulation.
Re: (3Q Jay)
Jay is it possible to have low fluid in the bypass line but have it appear full in the pump resoviour? My tech said the last pump that he replaced was properly filled with fluid. The pump he just replaced 6K ago is now squeaking quite loudly. Before I go back I'd like to have a good idea of how to properly fix.
Re: (tkd_q45)
They way I have seen it done is to eliminate the reservoir, and used the hose that goes to reservoir to complete the loop on the pump
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3Q Jay
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Re: (tkd_q45)
Tom, what you and i did the first time is exactly what Jared (silver 2k2) is suggesting. so, the short answer is that is a pure loopback hose is used, the reservoir would be out of the circuit, and whatever fluid is in there (i would actually expect it to be empty) won't get to the pump. why i was suggesting to keep the suction hose connected between reservoir and pump, and send the pump output (what used to go to the main front accumulator) back to the reservoir for circulation.
squeak? check the belt tension, especially if it has not been adjusted since the pump was installed 6k ago. maybe? that is all you need. i replaced the water pump/active belt and tensioner, and then had to go back in a week later and re-tension (had squeaking, especially on shift at hard throttle).
squeak? check the belt tension, especially if it has not been adjusted since the pump was installed 6k ago. maybe? that is all you need. i replaced the water pump/active belt and tensioner, and then had to go back in a week later and re-tension (had squeaking, especially on shift at hard throttle).
Re: G50 Which Power Steering Bracket? pics
http://www.trackntrek.com/stoker-vh-pow ... -q45-pump/
would this be a good alternative if I cant find the original brackets?
would this be a good alternative if I cant find the original brackets?
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3Q Jay
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Re: G50 Which Power Steering Bracket? pics
but you have a vh45de in a g50 chassis, correct? Are you doing an active to std pump conversion?Ccdiesel wrote:http://www.trackntrek.com/stoker-vh-pow ... -q45-pump/
would this be a good alternative if I cant find the original brackets?
the link is if you want to put your engine and non-active pump in a 240SX.....
Re: G50 Which Power Steering Bracket? pics
I'm just converting from active to non so that should work just as well?
Re: G50 Which Power Steering Bracket? pics
I just called them, it should work. All I need is a standard pump pulley. Not sure about the crank pulley yet.
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3Q Jay
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Re: G50 Which Power Steering Bracket? pics
you read the rest of this thread, right? the crank pulley absolutely is different for a non-active. 4 grooves vs.7
Re: G50 Which Power Steering Bracket? pics
why couldnt you run the smaller belt? You shouldnt need to change the crank pulley. But Yes the power steering pulley will be the standard version.
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3Q Jay
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Re: G50 Which Power Steering Bracket? pics
you mean narrower belt?
just consider that the factory setup has 'rails' at the outer edges. so presumably one or both edges of your narrow belt on a wide pulley will not have the retaining wall to ride against, being held from forward/aft movement by only the intermediate ribs.
also, be sure that the grooves remain in alignment---> the stackup height may cause the pump grooves to be out of plane with the crank and water pump pulleys.
will it work for you--i really don't know. What I can say from experience is that the water pump snout on a 90-93 is different than a 94-96, causing the belt to not properly align in plane. and this caused me downtime a long time ago while IoS corrected their mistake.
If you decide to go this route, please post up your experiences so others can learn from your success or failure.
just consider that the factory setup has 'rails' at the outer edges. so presumably one or both edges of your narrow belt on a wide pulley will not have the retaining wall to ride against, being held from forward/aft movement by only the intermediate ribs.
also, be sure that the grooves remain in alignment---> the stackup height may cause the pump grooves to be out of plane with the crank and water pump pulleys.
will it work for you--i really don't know. What I can say from experience is that the water pump snout on a 90-93 is different than a 94-96, causing the belt to not properly align in plane. and this caused me downtime a long time ago while IoS corrected their mistake.
If you decide to go this route, please post up your experiences so others can learn from your success or failure.
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