First off, thanks to RED_DET for directing me here. I got a '92 G20 with an SR20DE. I want to make it the best all around daily driver possible. More or less I wanted to go the whole 9 yards with all possible engine and performance upgrades. Just for self satisfaction, I installed a small sound system. Being a brokeass college student, I have to do these things slowly. Next step is suspension. Any suggestions as to what struts/springs/coilovers or any other parts I should get? I'm lookin for a 1.5" drop...or somewhere in that neighborhood. I intend on getting 17's sooner or later. Minimal ride penalty would be appreciated

The best spring Combo I have heard about is the Tein S-Tech springs and either KYB AGX's or GR-2's. They give approximately a 1.5" drop in front and 1.4" in rear. The ride is almost the same as stock since the springs are only 30% stiffer. Just make sure you cut the bump stops at leat 1-2" so that you arent riding on them. I also have a G and will go with this suspension setup in the spring. You need to go head and bump up the timing, it's a free mod. Just make sure you run 92-93 octane.

Timing: * Warm up engine to regular operating temp, and ensure idle speed stays below 1000 rpm. * Run engine at 2000 rpm for 2 minutes under no-load [in neutral, no accessories on]. Race engine 2 or 3 times under no-load, then run engine at idle speed. [this heats up the oxygen sensor so it is working] * Turn off engine and disconnect throttle position sensor (TPS) harness connector. [It's on the side of the throttle body facing the firewall - driver side of the engine, down low and past the brake master-cylinder] * Start engine. Race engine (2 - 3000 rpm) under no-load, the run at idle speed. [You may have trouble keeping it running with the throttle sensor disconnected. Depending on where your timing is set, it may stall. If so have someone sit in the car and press the gas *very slightly* to keep it running. Don't rev it up or you will not get an accurate timing reading/adjustment. Keep it at idle speed, about 800 rpm] * Check ignition timing with a timing light. It should be 15 degrees plus or minus 2 degrees Before Top Dead Center. [The timing mark at the extreme left (counter-clockwise) is zero degrees. There are lines at 5, 10 and 20 degrees to the right of it. There is a wide paint mark from 13 to 15 degrees, which the factory probably set yours to. Eyeball 17 degrees between the marks and that's what you want.]

From the 1991 Technical Bulletins, Beginning with April 1991 production, the ignition timing mating mark has been changed as shown below.

NEW marks at -5,0,5,10,13,white paint,15,20 B.T.D.C.. OLD marks at 0,5,10,15,20 B.T.D.C..

[Editoral note: there has been a lot of dicussion about the timing marks and basically it comes down to the easiest way to find the 15 degree mark after the early '91 production is to look for the white paint or the two marks that appear very close to each other. ]

-5 0 5 10 1315 20

| | | | ### |

^ 17

* If not, slightly loosen two bolts holding the distributor, and twist it [toward the front of the engine to advance, toward the cabin to retard] to obtain the desired timing. [Recheck the setting after tightening the bolts!]. * Shut off engine and reconnect throttle sensor.

That's it. The trick is to set it to the extreme limit of the specification - 17 degrees. You'll get noticeably better throttle response there. Advanced timing helps power, but can cause knocking or pinging. The EFI computer *should* "hear" this and back off the timing to prevent engine damage, at which point it may run worse than if you had kept the timing conservative. Mine didn't benefit from going beyond 17. I always run 91 octane or better gas too, which lets you push the timing farther without trouble.

Hey!

Welcome to Nico.

Mike is da-man and can help you go as far as you want to go with your new toy. The G20 is a really great car. I would love to have one myself and may try and pick one up after my Z is paid off.

Welcome!

Michael is an excellent resourse for all kinds of SR20DE (SE-R & G20) questions.

I like the G20s a lot, especially the 95-96 due to the regular 3-point seat belts vs. the motorized shoulder belt thingy. I may have one in a couple of years when/if my 14 y/o son inherits my SE-R.

Welcome to NICO. Looks like we're getting some good G20 ownership here.

Ty SE-R_92B13 wrote:Welcome!

Michael is an excellent resourse for all kinds of SR20DE (SE-R & G20) questions.

I like the G20s a lot, especially the 95-96 due to the regular 3-point seat belts vs. the motorized shoulder belt thingy. I may have one in a couple of years when/if my 14 y/o son inherits my SE-R.

If I still got my G in a couple years, I will sell it to you!

RED_DET wrote:
If I still got my G in a couple years, I will sell it to you!

Wife gave me permission to look for one. I'm gonna see if I can really afford another car right now and I may go looking. I've got my eye on a 95 G20t in Georgia right now. Who knows?