slickroger wrote:


what i did:just popped the relay off, put it in the space beside the connector it came out of. ran the turn on switch to the ciggarette lighter.

For the fog light mod you did, which wire did you tap into for power? I know it says cigarette lighter but on the cover for the box I don't have any labels for cigarette lighter. In that picture it looks like a small yellow wire but I'm not sure exactly which wire you decided to go with. Does anyone know what color wire would power the A/C relay? I know I can draw off that one as well.

thanks

sc2nr wrote:

slickroger wrote:


what i did:just popped the relay off, put it in the space beside the connector it came out of. ran the turn on switch to the ciggarette lighter.

For the fog light mod you did, which wire did you tap into for power? I know it says cigarette lighter but on the cover for the box I don't have any labels for cigarette lighter. In that picture it looks like a small yellow wire but I'm not sure exactly which wire you decided to go with. Does anyone know what color wire would power the A/C relay? I know I can draw off that one as well.

thanks

Personally, I just cut a hole in the far right bottom corner of the factory A/C relay's plastic housing (this is when looking at the relay installed from the driver's side, as in this photo; "far" referring to the side facing the passenger side) and created a length of wire that has a small alligator clip on one end, and a quick disconnect on the other to connect to the relay. I attached the alligator clip to the long pin/post and then connected the relay as slickroger did above using more jumper wires. I can provide some photos if you wish. I'm not saying this is the best method, but it works perfectly for me and is easily undone if necessary, with no functional damage to the factory relays (short of the plastic housing, but that can be covered up with electrical tape if the mod is undone).

Towncivilian wrote:
Personally, I just cut a hole in the far right bottom corner of the factory A/C relay's plastic housing (this is when looking at the relay installed from the driver's side, as in this photo; "far" referring to the side facing the passenger side) and created a length of wire that has a small alligator clip on one end, and a quick disconnect on the other to connect to the relay. I attached the alligator clip to the long pin/post and then connected the relay as slickroger did above using more jumper wires. I can provide some photos if you wish. I'm not saying this is the best method, but it works perfectly for me and is easily undone if necessary, with no functional damage to the factory relays (short of the plastic housing, but that can be covered up with electrical tape if the mod is undone).

Hmmm, I may just try the cutting into the factory relay like you said. Is it higher up on the white part of the relay, So that there is enough room for the alligator clip to be attached and the relay to be able to still connect? I knew that the pin closest to the fender had power, when I tested them last night. Pics would be cool if you have them, PM me

thanks

sc2nr wrote:

Towncivilian wrote:
Personally, I just cut a hole in the far right bottom corner of the factory A/C relay's plastic housing (this is when looking at the relay installed from the driver's side, as in this photo; "far" referring to the side facing the passenger side) and created a length of wire that has a small alligator clip on one end, and a quick disconnect on the other to connect to the relay. I attached the alligator clip to the long pin/post and then connected the relay as slickroger did above using more jumper wires. I can provide some photos if you wish. I'm not saying this is the best method, but it works perfectly for me and is easily undone if necessary, with no functional damage to the factory relays (short of the plastic housing, but that can be covered up with electrical tape if the mod is undone).

Hmmm, I may just try the cutting into the factory relay like you said. Is it higher up on the white part of the relay, So that there is enough room for the alligator clip to be attached and the relay to be able to still connect? I knew that the pin closest to the fender had power, when I tested them last night. Pics would be cool if you have them, PM me

thanks

Yes, there is plenty of room for the alligator clip. I'll try to post some pictures later today.

Here are the photos for my version of the fog light relay mod (yuck, I should have used heat shrink instead of electrical tape around the alligator clip, as well as a shorter wire!):

DONE, Works great, now I just have to get some more 14-16 gauge wire for the high beam mod, thanks to all that originally posted the how to and those that helped by answering as of late.

Glad to hear it went well for you! If you want pics of how I did my high beam mod I can provide those too. I messed up the first time around and cut the wrong end of the wire (it was a long day, heh), too close to the connector, and had to visit the junkyard and cut off another harness from a Frontier (luckily it's the same harness), and got another from an older Pathfinder as a backup. It was interesting that the Pathfinder had the wiring harness there even though it didn't have fog lights. However, the mod should be exactly the same process barring soldering on the positive wire to a new harness.

Here's how I did the high beam mod:





Locate the ground wire in the fog light connector (middle pin generally; check your FSM), cut and strip it, solder on an extension (or a quick disconnect for easy removal later; I believe all other exterior lights must turn off if brights are on in certain states for safety inspections), crimp on a ring terminal on the other end and screw it under a grounded screw. Try not to use too much length for an extension like I did, though. Very simple mod! Apologies for the crappy pictures, but they should suffice I think. Soldering the quick disconnect/ring terminals on after crimping, then electrical taping, then heatshrink will result in the most durable wire, but since this is a 3-inch ground wire you can probably get by with just crimping it on.

Towncivilian wrote:Here's how I did the high beam mod:





Locate the ground wire in the fog light connector (middle pin generally; check your FSM), cut and strip it, solder on an extension (or a quick disconnect for easy removal later; I believe all other exterior lights must turn off if brights are on in certain states for safety inspections), crimp on a ring terminal on the other end and screw it under a grounded screw. Try not to use too much length for an extension like I did, though. Very simple mod! Apologies for the crappy pictures, but they should suffice I think. Soldering the quick disconnect/ring terminals on after crimping, then electrical taping, then heatshrink will result in the most durable wire, but since this is a 3-inch ground wire you can probably get by with just crimping it on.

Ok so I finally got the fogs to work independently from the headlamps and i was trying to figure out how to get them to stay on when the Hbeams are on. I was trying to look at your picture but am a bit lost here I see this brown wire grounded to the screw but where is it coming from...?I cannot tell which harness it is coming from.

The brown wire is coming from the plug visible at the top (yellow/white striped wire). Yours will be different colored as mine is from a Frontier (I screwed up the first time I did the mod).

You should be grounding the wire that's closer to the passenger side. I'm having a brain fart trying to read the FSM right now so I'm not certain about the color.