Finally ready to get the Built engine together, Headwork ?

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
Cgeigert
Posts: 225
Joined: Sun Oct 08, 2006 7:43 am
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx

Post

My sr has been running like a champ since the swap years ago but I have been planning on putting a built engine together to swap in when this one goes. I know everything in and out about s13 except rebuilding engine, first time. My ultimate goals will be more for reliability than max horsepower. Luckily I came up on a built block so now all I have to do is get the head ready. I already pulled the head off the block, it's ready to be worked on and everything put together. So I guess I have two questions, what work should I do to head and what brands and parts do I still need to get?

The block has these pistons (CP pistons .25mm overbore 8:5:1) so how do I determine which head gasket to use and which size?

The head will need to be cleaned up obviously but should I do something like 3 angle valve job and bigger valves or will OEM valves be fine? Any other work I should do on head?

These are the parts I have, so let me know if they should work fine and what other parts I need? -Tomei RAS, Jim Wolf Camshafts, HKS cam gears, Greddy Springs

So I think I need valves, and seals and possibly want to use different springs. Any other parts?


User avatar
maverick06xx
Posts: 66
Joined: Thu Jan 24, 2008 7:43 am

Post

As far as head work do a port and polish and whatever valve job they recommend. I myself with with bigger oversize valve on both but everyone here says keep stock valve because they are bad a**. U may need valve guides and i would go with bronze ones. I went with brian crower cams because they seem to make good power and arent very expensive. U might as well go with brian crower valve springs and retainers as well. Rocker arms stoppers are a must i feel just a little bit insurance. cam gears is your preference and the greddy valve springs i think i heard on hear are too soft but cant confirm this. Valve stem seals i would also do.

compactfean
Posts: 2602
Joined: Thu Dec 03, 2009 10:28 am
Car: 89 240sx s13 sr gt3071r 23psi
B14 sentra ser sr20de-t 7psi
daily
Location: reno nv

Post

I will go over what I've learned and some things about the sr. port and polishing the head should only be done if you are aiming for more than 500 hp. The sr heads ports are plenty large enough and are specifically shaped for maximum velocity and great flow. Many can make an sr head flow less by porting and polishing if inexperienced. pretty much the biggest decision you will want to make is if you are gonna go solid lifters because that will narrow you're cam selection (tomei is about it if you go solid) if you choose tomei cams, they have Already been degreed doe the maximum hp and torque across the rev range as possible so cam gears aren't necessary. Also if solid lifters and upgraded valve springs are installed (match your cams with your springs, trust me) I would not recommend ras's. bronze valve guides are a must! (k liners can be used to save money and are just as good) the head gasket, if you are in an in between size piston, go up. So yours would be a 86.5 mm hg.

Cgeigert
Posts: 225
Joined: Sun Oct 08, 2006 7:43 am
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx

Post

Thanks for the response. Definitely gonna ditch the Greddy springs and probably get some dual ones only because that's what Jim Wolf recommends. Sounds like I won't have to overdo it on the head (not aiming for high hp). I haven't decided if I'll get new valves. What is a good brand to use for seals and guides and stuff, is Supertech OK?

compactfean
Posts: 2602
Joined: Thu Dec 03, 2009 10:28 am
Car: 89 240sx s13 sr gt3071r 23psi
B14 sentra ser sr20de-t 7psi
daily
Location: reno nv

Post

Dual valve spring s? What rev limit are you aiming for? As far as supertech, im only running there valve seals and seam to be fine. Still running stock valves at 400+ hp and I plan to keep running them when i.switch to my 700hp setup.


Return to “SR20DET Forum (rear-drive)”