



Well I wouldn't buy one used. And in time I will buy one more then likely, the resistors cost a few bucks and can get the same results I'm going after for less costasoomal wrote:Lol using resistors to tune an engine, why not just get a used safc?
mattd1979 wrote:Is this the thread you had trouble finding?
102mm-throttle-body-t573395.html
paranoidjack wrote:Nice job man, sounds beastly.
Turbon8er wrote:take pictures of your exhaust setup.. i'm curious to see the 4" Y-pipe your talking about.
if you want an electronic (or manual) exhaust valve, you can get one from Summit or Jegs. I was looking at doing a full exhaust for quiet daily, and electronic valve(s) for dumping out a hot rod sound (no performance gain there). From my experience, dumping exhaust shortly after the headers (on n/a) kills power significantly. N/a motors need backpressure to make torque, but you probably know that.
just to give you an idea of what i'm talking about... except i'll probably do all my own piping. undecided right now.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pye-xvx10/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-6 ... /overview/
I was just thinking... it would be kinda cool, once you get a working rpm window switch, to connect the trigger to the electronic cut-out valves. You could cruise around in sleeper mode, then punch it and have them open at like 4500 or something. You'll still probably incur power loss, but it'd be kinda trick, lol.

Turbon8er wrote:i can see why the x-pipe didn't yield a power gain, the angle is toooo sharp and the exhaust gas velocity is going to be destroyed by the direct intersection. The gas pressures are fighting each other at that point, and you'll probably lose power if anything.
If you'd like some great information on the subject, i highly suggest the book "Maximum Boost", by Corky Bell. It's mainly about turbocharging, but he goes into some great explanations and comparisons between n/a and Forced induction, and fantastic visual examples to better understand how such little details create serious results. It's only like $35 at Barnes n noble, and my favorite Non-fiction, lol.
I think his rear end and transmission should have gave him the edge if he was making more power then me, if that's what you are trying to say-elwesso wrote:What was the ambient temp, just curious? You have to remember that when Rob ran those numbers it was in the middle of the summer with high humidity in Miami, so it was probably pushing 90°F (35-40°C) at least. If you were more along the 5-10°C range when you ran, that means air is about 10% more dense, assuming the same elevation and neglecting humidity effects. Also, Rob spent a lot of money because he did NONE of the work himself, and included rental car prices in those figures, so it's easy to say one could very easily achieve the same results much cheaper doing the same mods.
I removed the thread, not because of the info contained in there but because of all the irrelevant arguing.. It's not coming back, end of story.
Allow me to summarize what you've done to achieve this 1/4 mile time (please add as necessary if I missed something):
1. Changed to 270cc injectors and increased fuel pressure
2. Advanced timing on the CAS
3. Bigger TB
4. Cold Air Intake
5. Glasspacks
^that is one reason that GM stuck with the Y-pipe on the late model F-bodies (camaro, firebird), of course they call it a "Live" pipe.N/A Q45 wrote:X-pipes have to much hype from what I have read in testing them vs y-pipes I couldn't seem to find any that use in my mind a proper size y-pipe. Y-pipes are my choice and I would recommend this to anyone who wants their Q in the low 14s or even hit 13s