The pulley is on the camshaft? Last I checked the crank pulley is on the crankshaft. Am I missing something? If a camshaft failed, it wouldn't have spun on its own. Cams are driven by crank rotation. Its unlikely that there would be any significant force acting on the cam that could cause damage through a timing chain without some other catastrophic failure. BTW, any chance you took any photos of the failure?suby01 wrote:the service guys showed what was wrong the camshaft spun causing the timing chain and everything else in the car to fail. the cause that they are saying is the pulley because it was on the camshaft and there's a chip on it, from where the key goes.
I just looked at the warranty again for the pulley. My thought is that while it looks like UR is home free, then you still need to look at the crank. In fact I haven't really heard exactly what the failure was in the engine. I am assuming you have a broken crank of some sort, severed, cracked, whatever.suby01 wrote:
the chip on the key was on the pulley itself. now just like you said UR doesnt have any type of warranty at all however.
i dont know what they will do with the old engine. or how that works??
Modified by suby01 at 6:03 PM 6/30/2009
Not sure if this is really true. My thought is that essentially they would get the engine for free and then be given the cost of labor that would have been billed to the customer. If the engine is not under warranty than it seems like they will get the engine at whatever the dealer normally would pay for the engine. The dealer would then add his markup and charge both that and the labor to the customer.Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT wrote:As far as i know, Infiniti dealers get paid dollar for dollar on warranty work. If it would cost 500 bux to the customer then the Infiniti (Corp) pays that to the dealer.
That is why they love warranty work because they get the same money and the customer is happy because they don't have to pay!
DJ
And perry, thats not actually true. The dealer doesn't get dollar for dollar. Not service, not the techs, not parts dept. Rates are dropped, and percentage chunks are lower, so the tech and service rep only get between 70% and 80% as much if it were not warranty. Also, pricing for parts is set at a certain number infiniti decides, and so the Parts dept only gets about 70% of what they could be getting.Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT wrote:As far as i know, Infiniti dealers get paid dollar for dollar on warranty work. If it would cost 500 bux to the customer then the Infiniti (Corp) pays that to the dealer.That is why they love warranty work because they get the same money and the customer is happy because they don't have to pay!
You sure this should not be 'And Tampa'?Poyzinous wrote:And perry, thats not actually true. The dealer doesn't get dollar for dollar. Not service, not the techs, not parts dept. Rates are dropped, and percentage chunks are lower, so the tech and service rep only get between 70% and 80% as much if it were not warranty. Also, pricing for parts is set at a certain number infiniti decides, and so the Parts dept only gets about 70% of what they could be getting.
Work is work, even if they are getting paid a little less for it than regular work. But its work they didn't have to do any substantial marketing to receive. The other aspect is that it provides opportunity for cross-sales and can be a great opportunity to impress a customer to try and earn repeat business.pfarmer wrote:I figure they will make more money off warranty then on. However since warranty work is more of a 'stream' they like warranty work since it takes up some of the down time of the shop, a filler. I think warranty work is more of a break even and non-warranty work is at the higher margins. However without warranty work then during down times the shop has a negative cash flow. Even if warranty work didn't break even it decreases the amount of negative cash flow.
Its your money and thus your choice, but it simply pains me to see such a passive position when your talking about $13K. So I apologize if I come off persistent but I'd rather I see a member not have to drop that kind of coin without good reason.suby01 wrote:now with that said i was going to call the infiniti hq. but then when i talked to the service manager he said infiniti gave approval for the warranty then just like someone said they engine would need to be sent back and they will have it fully inspected and right then and there they will find the same fault as in the aftermarket part making the damage and will not cover it and charge the dealer back for it. and since they dont have mr bob tech working on it they had to call over some specialist so they do it right that person mite and will lose their job because of credentials. bla bla.
Yes, my husband has been a tech and is a service manager with Goodyear for 28 years now. I'm surprised that he can put 'all that stuff' back together when an engine is apart!!! - but he can't figure out how to run a washing machine??SteveTheTech wrote:When you get into taking the engines apart on these cars for any significant reason they look like a mess. The last engine I did was in an FX45 I had parts and components and fluids everywhere. It's organized chaos. The majority of us can tell where 95% or the bolts go on these cars. Deep engine disassembly is impressive to see, the amount of stuff that is between the oil cap and the front of the engine is actually surprising.
My wife says the same thing. Something about that type of rational thought eludes us. My common area of .... failure include the back yard and completing the circle of laundry.Pamywyner wrote:
Yes, my husband has been a tech and is a service manager with Goodyear for 28 years now. I'm surprised that he can put 'all that stuff' back together when an engine is apart!!! - but he can't figure out how to run a washing machine??
Its actually interesting to see how one can progress. My first major work was replacing a clutch on my 83 Celica. I must have read the Hayne's Manual 100 times as I worked up the nerve for it. It took me a weekend to complete but it was done. But I had about 8 bolts that I had no idea where they were supposed to go. As I began working on cars more and more, I ended up with less and less leftover parts. But until I stopped having parts leftover the running theme my friends and I shared was "if no parts are leftover, it wasn't done right."SteveTheTech wrote:When you get into taking the engines apart on these cars for any significant reason they look like a mess. The last engine I did was in an FX45 I had parts and components and fluids everywhere. It's organized chaos. The majority of us can tell where 95% or the bolts go on these cars. Deep engine disassembly is impressive to see, the amount of stuff that is between the oil cap and the front of the engine is actually surprising.
Have it modified so that the door opens with a hood latch, clothes are loaded through a funnel and the button to start it is a key.Pamywyner wrote:but he can't figure out how to run a washing machine??
I never attempted a clutch in the driveway. I don't envy that, although the 84 was rwd wasn't it? The most crucial step in any type of major repair is making a mental note of the color,size, and location of everything you remove. A trick I learned along the way was to get a box of small ziptop sandwich bags and put the small components and bolts in bags, if the car is not going back together right away labeling them in conjunction with the picture from the FSM makes the reinstall much easier and almost eliminates the extra bolt pile.C-Kwik wrote:My first major work was replacing a clutch on my 83 Celica. I must have read the Hayne's Manual 100 times as I worked up the nerve for it.
I've done at least 7 in my driveway.SteveTheTech wrote:
I never attempted a clutch in the driveway.
Celicas were RWD up until 1986 IIRC.SteveTheTech wrote:
I don't envy that, although the 84 was rwd wasn't it?
Yeah, I did that when I replaced the headgasket and timing chain guides on my friend's 89 240sx. Its the first major repair I can recall that ended up with no missing or extra hardware.SteveTheTech wrote:The most crucial step in any type of major repair is making a mental note of the color,size, and location of everything you remove. A trick I learned along the way was to get a box of small ziptop sandwich bags and put the small components and bolts in bags, if the car is not going back together right away labeling them in conjunction with the picture from the FSM makes the reinstall much easier and almost eliminates the extra bolt pile.
I have done several clutches in the gravel, the hardest one being a 61 Sunbeam Alpine since you pull the engine and you pull it from under the car since access to the bell housing is so limited. The easiest being a 75 VW Scirroco, transmission on the kitchen table in under 45 minutes.SteveTheTech wrote:
I never attempted a clutch in the driveway. I don't envy that, although the 84 was rwd wasn't it? The most crucial step in any type of major repair is making a mental note of the color,size, and location of everything you remove. A trick I learned along the way was to get a box of small ziptop sandwich bags and put the small components and bolts in bags, if the car is not going back together right away labeling them in conjunction with the picture from the FSM makes the reinstall much easier and almost eliminates the extra bolt pile.
Now I use an oil filter box and a magnetic tray (for large parts) when doing jobs of that scale. Space is at a premium though so things need to be in piles, as the cleanup guys tend to try to "help" and there is always more than one thing that needs your attention.
7 Really... or I don't know what is appropriate for that. You would be surprised how much different it is working on your feet.C-Kwik wrote:I've done at least 7 in my driveway.
Yeah, I did that when I replaced the headgasket and timing chain guides on my friend's 89 240sx. Its the first major repair I can recall that ended up with no missing or extra hardware.
...wow that doesn't really sound fun at all. VWs were notoriously easy to pull apart which made them a huge international success in the good old days. When I was with MB it was common practice to pull the engine for major repairs. I could pull an entire driveline out of an E and S class in about 1.5hrs. It always took about 2hrs-the whole day to get them back in(depending on work load). But that was in a body shop environment where it could be a month before you put the car back together and there was always one or more of your baggies missing.pfarmer wrote:I have done several clutches in the gravel, the hardest one being a 61 Sunbeam Alpine since you pull the engine and you pull it from under the car since access to the bell housing is so limited. The easiest being a 75 VW Scirroco, transmission on the kitchen table in under 45 minutes.
In the case of the Sunbeam the transmission bolted to the bell housing on the inside of the bell housing with the tail shaft sitting inside of a cross memeber. The bell housing then was almost impossible to unbolt as well, so out the engine came to make it easy.SteveTheTech wrote: ...wow that doesn't really sound fun at all. VWs were notoriously easy to pull apart which made them a huge international success in the good old days. When I was with MB it was common practice to pull the engine for major repairs. I could pull an entire driveline out of an E and S class in about 1.5hrs. It always took about 2hrs-the whole day to get them back in(depending on work load). But that was in a body shop environment where it could be a month before you put the car back together and there was always one or more of your baggies missing.
It is kind of funny that warranty pays <2hrs to R&I a clutch on an older G.
I'm trying to visualize that and I think I need to go to the Google. Whatever it is it sounds awful. Very reminiccant of GM and the hatred for technicians when locating things like oil filters and other items that require periodic replacement.pfarmer wrote:
In the case of the Sunbeam the transmission bolted to the bell housing on the inside of the bell housing with the tail shaft sitting inside of a cross memeber. The bell housing then was almost impossible to unbolt as well, so out the engine came to make it easy.
Perry
Consider aligning the pilot shaft!SteveTheTech wrote:
I'm trying to visualize that and I think I need to go to the Google. Whatever it is it sounds awful. Very reminiccant of GM and the hatred for technicians when locating things like oil filters and other items that require periodic replacement.
I'm often glad I never went into work as a mechanic. I was urged to by a few people I knew, but I'm not sure I'd enjoy cars as much if I did. I hate working on stuff that isn't mine now.SteveTheTech wrote:I envy you guys who tinker with cars as a hobby. I used to be like that, then I thought why not do what you like right??? I just cannot fathom doing heavy work on my back with the car <1meter off the ground, I'm a little spoiled an above ground rack is the best invention. Maybe I am a little jadded after a very long day.
No worries man. I feel the same way sometimes. I'm proud of it at times, but when I'm in the middle of it, I always say, why the hell did I agree to this crap? Of course, half of them were my own so it was to save me some money. I can imagine working on your feet and with a proper transmission jack would make all the difference. Trying to get the upper bolts from under the car can be a real pain when you have to lift yourself up to it.SteveTheTech wrote:7 Really... or I don't know what is appropriate for that. You would be surprised how much different it is working on your feet.
Frankly, with the headgasket and when we rebuilt my friend's motor, it would have been much better to pull the motor. With the headgasket, I didn't know better and was too late by the time I figured it out. With my friend's motor, we rebuilt his Supra motor with the block still installed. My friend insisted we not pull the motor despite my efforts to change his mind. The only good thing about that was we didn't have to truck around a motor to get it bored out (we did the work as he blew a piston, but he bought slightly oversized replacements). The local dealer referred him to a guy that had a mobile boring machine and did it in the garage. Expensive (relative to taking it in), but worked out fine.SteveTheTech wrote:...wow that doesn't really sound fun at all. VWs were notoriously easy to pull apart which made them a huge international success in the good old days. When I was with MB it was common practice to pull the engine for major repairs. I could pull an entire driveline out of an E and S class in about 1.5hrs. It always took about 2hrs-the whole day to get them back in(depending on work load). But that was in a body shop environment where it could be a month before you put the car back together and there was always one or more of your baggies missing.
I had the engine on the ground in a Corvair in under 50 feet. Wait a second that wasn't intentional. I was taking a fellow workers car out for a test drive. She wanted something like 50 bucks for it and I figured if it lasted a month it would be good enough for the 50 bucks. It lasted 50 feet when the engine fell on the ground and the car came to a halt. She comes screaming out of her booth 'what did you do to my car?'. Turns out it was missing the cotter key on the castle nut that holds the rear of the engine in place. It tore the ignition wires to the coil. I put the nut back on, put in a decent cotter key, spliced the wires, and she was able to drive off in about 20 minutes.SteveTheTech wrote:...wow that doesn't really sound fun at all. VWs were notoriously easy to pull apart which made them a huge international success in the good old days. When I was with MB it was common practice to pull the engine for major repairs. I could pull an entire driveline out of an E and S class in about 1.5hrs. It always took about 2hrs-the whole day to get them back in(depending on work load). But that was in a body shop environment where it could be a month before you put the car back together and there was always one or more of your baggies missing.
It is kind of funny that warranty pays <2hrs to R&I a clutch on an older G.