Dynamat in 2006 M45

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yosM45
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I know this has probably been discussed.

But have many of you've done dynamat though out your M?

Did you just do the doors? The underbody? Everything?

Was there a complete kit?

How expensive is it?

Is it worth it?


I love my full Megan system, but after adding the mid-pipes, I do wish it was quiter inside. I love how it sounds out side, but not from the inside. I'm also at the stage where I'm over people being able to hear my telephone calls from outside the car.

Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.


-yos


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AZhitman
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A word of advice from someone who's done sound deadening in 8+ vehicles: Skip the Dynamat. It's expensive and doesn't perform as well as some of the other stuff.

I'm a big fan of GT Mat (http://www.gtmat.com/), and they happen to be one of our sponsors. HOWEVER, they became a sponsor here AFTER I hounded them to come aboard, because I love their product.

I like the Onyx product, and I'd recommend getting enough to do the floor, trans tunnel, trunk, and some smallish pieces for the inside of the outer door skin.

You'll be impressed with the results, and for about half the price of the Dynamat. Plus, it's a good opportunity to pull out the whole interior and give it a really, really good cleaning.

It also blocks a LOT of heat, so your A/C will work way better. :)

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Thanks Vos and AZ for asking that question and answering it!

I've been tempted to do this for some time now. Recently I had the trunk liner removed to upgrade the license, cargo, rear turn signals, and reverse lamps and i was disappointed to find there was virtually NO sound deadening material in the trunk.
I'd like to do the entire trunk and the interior floor, but not quite sure I want to dismantle the doors (afraid of wrecking little tabs or damaginf trim pieces that are nearly 6 years old now.
Do you remember how much Onyx you used when you did your car?
Just measuring in my head I reckon about 50 sq ft should do the sides, bottom, and lid of the trunk + the entire interior floor area? Would you agree?

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yosM45
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Larz wrote:Thanks Vos and AZ for asking that question and answering it!

I've been tempted to do this for some time now. Recently I had the trunk liner removed to upgrade the license, cargo, rear turn signals, and reverse lamps and i was disappointed to find there was virtually NO sound deadening material in the trunk.
I'd like to do the entire trunk and the interior floor, but not quite sure I want to dismantle the doors (afraid of wrecking little tabs or damaginf trim pieces that are nearly 6 years old now.
Do you remember how much Onyx you used when you did your car?
Just measuring in my head I reckon about 50 sq ft should do the sides, bottom, and lid of the trunk + the entire interior floor area? Would you agree?

Thanks AZ. That was my next question? How much do I need?

Fezzik
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really depends on what you want to do. Complete quiet in the car, then you are going to need a lot. get a ruler out and measure the door inside and all areas you think you may need it. But do it in squares. Door shape is trapezoid but calculate out the longest two sides for the square footage. I also suggest the rear deck if you have bose. It will help stabilize that deck and can help produce a slightly better sound. If you want to do the floors just measure it too. Always buy extra. You do not want to be all torn apart and not have enough. Also do area's that are harder to get to and then to the easier area to get to in case you do run out.

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Great topic. I have been thinking about doing this too.

Thanks for the GTMAT link AZ. I heard there was other options from Dynamat and I'm happy to have some first hand opinion on another kind.

You guys think 36sq ft will be enough to do the following:

1) Entire truck...I mean 100%.
2) Under the rear passenger seat and immediate carpet area of the rear seat.
3) Rear deck

Anything left over will be used in the doors.

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Great tips, Fezzik ! Thanks. I agree - if I'm going to do it, I want to do it all on the first try. Never want to find I'm sat there with no product and more spaces to cover.
Whomever does it first MUST do a DIY or at least keep track of which areas they did and the total amount of Oxnyx they used. deal?

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AZhitman
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Hit up Tracie ([email protected]) and ask her - She'd probably be able to give you a real good estimate.

Don't stress over having a little extra - it's great for doing other projects, and almost every car I own gets a 1' square piece on the outer door skin JUST to cut resonance.

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Larz wrote:Great tips, Fezzik ! Thanks. I agree - if I'm going to do it, I want to do it all on the first try. Never want to find I'm sat there with no product and more spaces to cover.
Whomever does it first MUST do a DIY or at least keep track of which areas they did and the total amount of Oxnyx they used. deal?
Deal. I'll let you do it first :rotfl

The how to for the LED mirror covers show how to take the front door panels off but how are the back taken off? And how is the rear deck taken apart? Anyone know?

On the Maxima, the rear deck was A LOT OF WORK.

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I remember seeing some pics of the rear deck taken apart by someone who replaced the speakers. I will do a little searching tomorrow if I get time and post links to the rear deck and even the doors if I can find them. As far as the trunk liner goes, I've been there, done that a few times, thanks LOL.

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yosM45
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I'm thinking 100 sq. ft. Should cover the doors, floors, back of the second row, and deck.

But I'll measure.

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dynamat has a few products so I don't know exactly which one you are buying, but I'm going to assume you are looking at the line that everyone buys the "tin foil with tar on the bottom". dynamat (or deadener of any type) is NOT what you buy for reducing noise from a car. they are meant to stop rattles and vibratios. if you are looking to quiet your car and prevent noise ingress and egress then you need to buy mass load vinyl (mlv) and foam liner. only that will truly reduce noise.

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yosM45 wrote:I'm thinking 100 sq. ft. Should cover the doors, floors, back of the second row, and deck.

But I'll measure.
Let me know what you find, it would help everyone out. I have a feeling this project is going to be a team effort with some people doing a write up, some doing measuring, etc. Let's do it!

I plan to do this maybe in late June or so.
TDot wrote:dynamat has a few products so I don't know exactly which one you are buying, but I'm going to assume you are looking at the line that everyone buys the "tin foil with tar on the bottom". dynamat (or deadener of any type) is NOT what you buy for reducing noise from a car. they are meant to stop rattles and vibratios. if you are looking to quiet your car and prevent noise ingress and egress then you need to buy mass load vinyl (mlv) and foam liner. only that will truly reduce noise.
Or the Butyl Onyx stuff from GTMat which isn't simple tar and tin foil.

IMO, Reducing noise via this various products is a byproduct of putting the material on your car to fix rattles and vibrations. It's really killing two birds with one stone.

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Regarding door panel removal. The FAQ about removing trim pieces shows how to remove front doors with pics - and it says rear doors are the exact same as the front.

Regarding the rear deck, I'm thinking that after we remove the entire trunk liner, the deck will be exposed. We can place the deadener on the underside of the rear deck from inside the trunk and possibly also cover the rear seat backs as well. If I'm wrong, someone please correct me.

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Larz wrote:Regarding door panel removal. The FAQ about removing trim pieces shows how to remove front doors with pics - and it says rear doors are the exact same as the front.

Regarding the rear deck, I'm thinking that after we remove the entire trunk liner, the deck will be exposed. We can place the deadener on the underside of the rear deck from inside the trunk and possibly also cover the rear seat backs as well. If I'm wrong, someone please correct me.
Ahh I missed that first part.

For the rear deck, I was thinking of doing it on top...but I guess you're right...doing the underside of the rear deck once the trunk liners are out would be the same thing, just other side. Couple that with doing the back of the rear seat and under the rear seat...I think that'll be quite a bit of deadening of the rear of the car.

Good thinking sir. "I love it when a plan comes together!" :gapteeth:

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TDot wrote:dynamat has a few products so I don't know exactly which one you are buying, but I'm going to assume you are looking at the line that everyone buys the "tin foil with tar on the bottom". dynamat (or deadener of any type) is NOT what you buy for reducing noise from a car. they are meant to stop rattles and vibratios. if you are looking to quiet your car and prevent noise ingress and egress then you need to buy mass load vinyl (mlv) and foam liner. only that will truly reduce noise.
Thanks TDOT ! That's a very good point. We are looking at GTMAT Onyx Butyl. Here is the blurb they have on their website:

GTMAT BUTYL ONYX Sound Deadener is made of real, true Butyl material that can withstand higher heat than regular asphalt material. Not only can GTMAT BUTYL ONYX Sound Deadener withstand high-heat, but it gives off no odor! Additionally GTMAT BUTYL ONYX Sound Deadener reduces unwanted rattle and improves the sound of your stereo with the 70Mil Thick Real Butyl Material. Give GTMAT BUTYL ONYX Sound deadener a try today and see why our customers choose GTMAT Sound Control for their sound deadening needs!

They make a 50sq ft kit that includes degreaser, a roller, and instructions for $159 US. What are you thoughts?

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Larz wrote:
TDot wrote:dynamat has a few products so I don't know exactly which one you are buying, but I'm going to assume you are looking at the line that everyone buys the "tin foil with tar on the bottom". dynamat (or deadener of any type) is NOT what you buy for reducing noise from a car. they are meant to stop rattles and vibratios. if you are looking to quiet your car and prevent noise ingress and egress then you need to buy mass load vinyl (mlv) and foam liner. only that will truly reduce noise.
Thanks TDOT ! That's a very good point. We are looking at GTMAT Onyx Butyl. Here is the blurb they have on their website:

GTMAT BUTYL ONYX Sound Deadener is made of real, true Butyl material that can withstand higher heat than regular asphalt material. Not only can GTMAT BUTYL ONYX Sound Deadener withstand high-heat, but it gives off no odor! Additionally GTMAT BUTYL ONYX Sound Deadener reduces unwanted rattle and improves the sound of your stereo with the 70Mil Thick Real Butyl Material. Give GTMAT BUTYL ONYX Sound deadener a try today and see why our customers choose GTMAT Sound Control for their sound deadening needs!

They make a 50sq ft kit that includes degreaser, a roller, and instructions for $159 US. What are you thoughts?
That's the kit I'm considering as well, if 50 is enough.

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I don't think I have heard from either of you. You guys are aware you get a slight discount right? Give us a call! 1-855-GTSOUND -Tracie

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yosM45
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GTMat wrote:I don't think I have heard from either of you. You guys are aware you get a slight discount right? Give us a call! 1-855-GTSOUND -Tracie

Im still planning on doing this. I just won't be back home from work until June 7th.

It was suggested that I should measure what I want covered, which as of now is all 4 doors, the front and rear floors, the back seat rest, the back seat deck, and the trunk.

Quite a bit.

The hardest part of all this is getting to the floor boards. Not looking forward to this.

Which product did you all recommend for the noise deadening.

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GTMat wrote:I don't think I have heard from either of you. You guys are aware you get a slight discount right? Give us a call! 1-855-GTSOUND -Tracie

No, I wasn't aware of the discount and thanks for letting us know! I'm in the middle of a few other things around the house at the mo, but when i'm ready to start this mod I will contact you.

Thanks again !

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yosM45 wrote:
GTMat wrote:I don't think I have heard from either of you. You guys are aware you get a slight discount right? Give us a call! 1-855-GTSOUND -Tracie

Im still planning on doing this. I just won't be back home from work until June 7th.

It was suggested that I should measure what I want covered, which as of now is all 4 doors, the front and rear floors, the back seat rest, the back seat deck, and the trunk.

Quite a bit.

The hardest part of all this is getting to the floor boards. Not looking forward to this.

Which product did you all recommend for the noise deadening.
Sending you a PM with pricing info!

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Larz wrote:
GTMat wrote:I don't think I have heard from either of you. You guys are aware you get a slight discount right? Give us a call! 1-855-GTSOUND -Tracie

No, I wasn't aware of the discount and thanks for letting us know! I'm in the middle of a few other things around the house at the mo, but when i'm ready to start this mod I will contact you.

Thanks again !
Sounds good, we look forward to hearing from you! :dblthumb:

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yosM45 wrote:
The hardest part of all this is getting to the floor boards. Not looking forward to this.

Which product did you all recommend for the noise deadening.
Floorboards are simple. You're going to be removing most of the interior anyway (that's the only way to give it a REAL good cleaning). Seats, trim panels, console, carpet - in that order. :)

The Onyx is what you want, IMO. And while mlv and foam are ONE WAY to reduce interior noise, I disagree that they're the ONLY way. I've done 7 cars now, all with phenomenal results. The density of the butyl products not only stops resonance and vibration, but it is an effective barrier to transmitted sound (such as tire noise). Foam presents its own challenges to the installer, and if you only have 1/16" - 1/8" of space in which to install something, it needs to kill the major noise FIRST (resonance / vibration). Besides, jute-backed carpet (and auto carpet itself) is pretty effective against transmitted sound, it just fails at dampening resonance.

I really like the heat-blocking properties as well... in AZ, we need all the help we can get! :)

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AZhitman wrote:The density of the butyl products not only stops resonance and vibration, but it is an effective barrier to transmitted sound (such as tire noise). Foam presents its own challenges to the installer, and if you only have 1/16" - 1/8" of space in which to install something, it needs to kill the major noise FIRST (resonance / vibration).

.....................Soon.....................



;)

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My plans are to do the entire floor and all 4 doors from the inside .... then the rear seat back and rear deck lid from INSIDE the trunk whilst doing the floor and sides of the trunk itself. This way I'm hoping to reduce the amount of trim removal on the interior - no need to remove the rear seat back and deck trim, etc. I'm thinking it will take about 100 sq ft instead of 50, but when I measure for all these surfaces, I'll post my calculations.
If anyone beats me to doing this - please post how much product was required and maybe even some mobile phone pics as you go.
It's great that we get a discount from GTmat !

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Hey guys, approx two years ago I planned on installing a sub and amp combo so I sound proofed my trunk initially. The sub and amp are still not installed , but having the trunk lined has made a difference in the sound deadening for the aftermarket exhaust systems that I've run.... I know prior to lining the trunk, I could notice 'outside' noise and after the trunk lined, it was a decrease... I plan on adding to the lining by getting the sound deadening foam/carpet.., I used a product named 'Second Skin' unfortunately I didn't keep the sq footage calculation but this is what I remember buying... I lined the spare wheel well and entire sides
I think I had to buy some additional sq footage but since the product was thicker than dynamat, it's not required to cover every inch

http://store.secondskinaudio.com/dampli ... runk-pack/

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sorry to revive an old thread but Larz did you feel this made a big difference? between the exhaust, the sound system and just the overall aging of the car there are creaks and rattles and drone throughout the cabin and this product looks promising...

do we still get a discount? and how much would we need like 50 square?

Larz
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dball wrote:sorry to revive an old thread but Larz did you feel this made a big difference? between the exhaust, the sound system and just the overall aging of the car there are creaks and rattles and drone throughout the cabin and this product looks promising...

do we still get a discount? and how much would we need like 50 square?
Actually, all I did was the trunk and yes, I noticed a difference. My main trouble was rattling of the rear deck from bass notes with the music turned up. I fixed that by painting tennis 2 tennis balls black to match the color of the deck lid. I smooshed them in between the rear windscreen and the sides of the upper mounted brake light and that took care of the rattling. I now that isn't what you were hoping for, LOL, but that's all I did.
My 09 M35 has no issues with interior noise or rattling regardless of volume from the stereo. I reckon they improved the design. As for the rear deck rattle, there is none. I reckon this is due to the rear sunshade. It operates on a frame that I reckon that it required improvements / strengthening of the rear shelf to a degree where it is too stable to rattle.

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that actually does help me with a least a large part of my problem! my rear deck is a joke at this point so i may try that tennis ball idea or wedge some of this thicker luxury liner i have laying around in the gap. i will be installing some sort of deadening product through out the trunk as ever since i put the sub in and the exhaust there has been an increase in vibration. i still have to figure out how to fix the rattle from the headliner behind the sun roof and the two front doors. oh and the dash board behind the nav screen.. dammit i hate nj roads.. beating this car to pieces..


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