DIY Vehicle Ramps

1980-1986 Datsun 720 forums. All 720-specific topics and discussion can be found here.
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fastboatman29212
Posts: 493
Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2010 6:45 pm
Car: left this forum. Sold my truck.
Location: South Carolina

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I was gonna buy some ramps. Then I decided to try and make some.
They HAD to be safe! EASY and hopefully CHEAP to make!

Google search turned up the plans linked below - You can see they are 6.5 feet long and would weigh a ton. Plus, if you needed to slide yourself under the vehicle BETWEEN the front and rear wheels, the ramp would be in the way! Those features were serious drawbacks to the design.

http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/tsb ... ramps.html

I modified the above idea to reduce the weight and solve the problem of not being able to get under the vehicle between the wheels. I drew up some plans. I'm pleased with the result.

I hope you like these ramps.

Features:
Raises vehicle 6 inches.
They should work well with most LOWERED vehicles. (Maybe not slammed ones though :rolleyes: )
Easy to store.
Easy to make.
Cheap to make.
Can be repaired if needed.
The weight is manageable.
You can get under the vehicle from any angle.
Ramp portion becomes a wheel chock.

REMEMBER!
1. Always CHOCK the wheels.
2. Use them on a LEVEL SURFACE!
3. Have a friend guide you when going "up the ramp".
4. Use jack stands when working under the vehicle. Do NOT rely on these ramps alone.

Supplies:
2" X 10" X 10 ft. treated lumber (buy 2 pieces) Cost me $22
2.5" long wood or drywall screws - you will need about 32 - 40 of these
4 bolts - I used 3/8" X 2.5" Hex head - fully threaded
Wood glue
Small hammer

Tools:
Skil Saw
electric drill and various sizes of wood bits and a phillips head bit for driving in the screws
Tape measure and pencil

Note: A 2X10 actually is only 1.5" thick and 9 and 3/8 wide. Also, I measured my 2X10 and it was actually 10ft and a 1/2". The sawing chewed up the 1/2" extra, so the measurements actually came out exact.

To make 1 ramp, cut the 2 X 10 into the following lengths:
21" X 3 pieces
18" X 2 pieces
13" X 1 piece
8" X 1 piece

Stack two 21" pieces and screw them together.

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Place an 18" on top and screw into place. Then another 18" on top of that one. We'll call this the "MAIN PIECE".

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Screw the 13" piece onto the remaining 21" piece. We'll call this piece the "RAMP PIECE".

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Place the MAIN PIECE and the RAMP PIECE together and then position the 8" on top like this.

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Draw a center line on the 8" piece and mark it at 2.5" and 1.5" as shown
Drill 2 holes in the 8" piece as shown. Make the holes big enough so the 3/8" bolts slide in and out VERY EASILY. Countersink the heads of the bolts. We'll call this piece the "LOCKING PLATE". I used wood glue to secure the bolts inside the 8" piece, but other kinds of glue will work too.

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The matching holes in the MAIN PIECE and RAMP PIECE should be big enough that the bolts slide in and out very easily. In other words, the LOCKING PLATE should be very easy to remove by just lifting it.

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Drill another hole 4" behind the 1st hole in the RAMP PIECE. Once the LOCKING PLATE and RAMP PIECE are removed, the LOCKING PLATE can be nested into these 2 holes in either of 2 possible ways, with a step at the front, or spin it 180 degrees and make it flush with the front end. Try it and see.

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Make another ramp.

Get ready to load the vehicle. Line them up. You can actually "feel" each step as you drive up the ramp.

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Set the park brake! Now you can remove the LOCKING PLATE and RAMP PIECE.

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Easy access to the area under the door.

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Here, the LOCKING PLATE is in the "STEP" position.

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This Tercel has much lower clearance than a truck. Loading was a breeze.

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Adding a STOP BLOCK might be a good idea so you can "feel" when to stop.

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I marked the pieces as "P" for Passenger and "D" for Driver so that I don't mix the parts. I marked a center line on the MAIN PIECE so my helper can say "STOP" when the wheel center lines up. Storage is easy since they nest together in more than 1 way. They can also be stacked.

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2 timer
Posts: 57
Joined: Wed Aug 10, 2011 1:36 pm
Car: 1984 nissan 720

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Awesome. Very crafty work fbm

woodbutcher5691
Posts: 109
Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2011 10:14 am
Car: 85 720 2wd 5sp.
3- 280zx's
Location: Crump,TN

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That's a good idea. Here are mine that I made about 5 years ago out of some scrap 3/4" marine grade plywood doubled up. They are about 3' long x 12'' wide x 14" tall. I like the removeable part on yours.
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User avatar
fastboatman29212
Posts: 493
Joined: Sun Jul 25, 2010 6:45 pm
Car: left this forum. Sold my truck.
Location: South Carolina

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I can get under my truck pretty easy even without the ramps. Some of you guys have lowered trucks so I thought it might be useful. I made them so I could change the tranny fluid on my wife's Sentra. Just thought I'd share.

I almost bought a set of plastic ramps but decided not to. Once they get a crack then they are probably not safe because the integrity/geometry is lost. I ain't getting under there if there's a crack in the plastic. :ohno:

woodbutcher5691
Posts: 109
Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2011 10:14 am
Car: 85 720 2wd 5sp.
3- 280zx's
Location: Crump,TN

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fastboatman29212 wrote:
I almost bought a set of plastic ramps but decided not to. Once they get a crack then they are probably not safe because the integrity/geometry is lost. I ain't getting under there if there's a crack in the plastic. :ohno:
Yea, plastic is good for alot of things but ramps ain't one of 'em. IMO :nono:

synack7350
Posts: 364
Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2011 3:08 pm
Car: nissan '83 720 king cab pickup 2wd 2.4L Z24
Location: Boaz, AL

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awesome thanks FBM I got a ton of old barn lumber. Its always a pain having to jack up my ride for every little thing. I was interested in ramps but none of them that are affordable are even close to safe. With free wood and just the fasteners I'd put this project in maybe the 20 dollar range? Sounds good to me. I'm gonna get too it :D


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