Introduction: Please read this DIY before starting.... I took off the head on a rwd s13 redtop SR20DET engine. With pictures and information, I have comprised information that will help you to do this. I will also have a DIY on installing everything back together (stock wise).

Tasks: Many things can come from removing the head. -Rebuilding head and or block-Inspection of all internal parts and engine-Replacing seals, parts, upgrading, etc.

Tool Required and optional:Tools you will and may need depending on how you go about this like removing whole engine..`Hammer`flathead screwdriver`screwdriver`8,10,12,13,14,17,19,24,27 mm`10mm allen socket (1/2 prefered)`torque wrench (1/2 prefered)`ratchet 3/8, 1/2`set of wrenches`wd40`penetrating spray`adjustable wrench`breaker bar 1/2 `impact gun 1/2 (for crank pulley bolt)`magentic wand`trayMaybe other things needed but Im only doing steps of removing head.

Time: Depending on how fast you work, and skill wise, it should take you about 30min to 3hrs. Note that having the engine out makes it much easier and cuts down the time. This DIY is done with the engine on a stand.

Procedures:

I have the pictures here:http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c140/mr3kgt/. If you are planning to do this than I should not have to go into great details about the pre removal parts and liquids as this takes a bit more mechanical skills. For bolts, screws, and washers, I highly recommend you put them back as soon you remove the parts to keep track of them. Make sure to keep everything in order the way you took them out.

FSM pictures from an s14 sr. 1. Please refer to the cautions and procedures. After finishing this procedures you will end up with this (or similar).

Be very cautious and take your time as you dont want to mess anything up. Also I been reading up on peoples past experience, if you can't remove something, then your either missed a step or you skipped a step, so don't just yank, hammer, call it quites, etc. and hope for the best. Instead take a step back and read. 2.If you plan to remove your front cover (aka oil pump and or change the front main seal: Make sure to loosen the crank pulley bolt with a impact gun first before setting it to TDC and having the chain positioned correctly. I highly recommend doing it with a impact gun especially if the engine is on a stand. If it still has the transmission, you just have to put it into gear or pull the ebrake up)-You want your camshaft sprocket and chain matting mark lines up as shown in the fsm and in the pictures. -At this point, you do not want to turn your crank again.

-Use the 27mm socket and breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt. Turn in clockwise (to the right) motion until you have set it to the marks on the sprockets matting marks and chains silver links and have your No.1 piston on TDC (2nd line going from the left).-Best way to check is to have good lighting and looking back on the fsm. It takes some people a couple turns or even 60, it all depends. It should turn out like this. Remember not to turn your crank pulley or cams seperately. 3.-Remove the bolts on the chain tensioner. -Slowly pull on the tensioner. You may have to use a flat head but be very careful as it will snap back real fast causing the chain to snap.-Now remove the Crank Angle Sensor(Camshaft position sensor) -CAS. Its held by 2 screws (one of mine was missing... sigh).-Now like the tensioner, slowly and carefully pull it out-Remove the timing guide plate 4.-Remove the camshaft sprockets. Im not sure what size the bolts were as I resorted to using an impact gun and socket (no number on it). Its 2X.-Use an adjustable wrence or if you have the suitable size wrench to hold it on the hexegon portion. Make sure its slim as I didn't have one.-As the fsm's next step is to remove the cams than turbo, you should have already removed the turbo along with the intake manifold beforehand.-Another way to go about this is you can remove the cams without removing the sprocket. Just loosen the cam caps as shown in the FSM and it should pop off with a bit of force and you just remove the entire thing. Makes things easier to remove and install. 5.-Remove the camshaft brackets bolts' in order as shown in the FSM or in the picture with I believe a 10 or 12mm.-Remove the tubes and baffle plateShould turn out like this were you can see the rocker arms and the HEAD BOLTS!!! 6.-Remove the outer bolts which is 4 in total with a 10mm and 12mm socket, extension and ratchet. far left near the oil catch canBelow the water neck2 in front of the chain 7.Probably the most difficult part in terms of bolts. This suckers are on tight and prepare to have an extra 10mm allen socket (thank you lifetime warranty).-Make sure to remove this in order and to do it in steps. This is where the torque wrench comes into play. I believe that this head bolts are on at around 120ft. lbs. You want to do it in 2-3 steps so for example start at 120, than 90, 60, 30 ft. lbs and remove. This all depends on how tight this are as if you check the fsm torque ratings for installing them, there only at 78ft lbs after all the other steps. Try different methods to break this suckers loose. Ive read people using hammers, breaker bars, and torque wrenches that all work. Do not do this with an impact gun. 8. I used a screwdriver to hold the chain from falling, it is not necessary so just let it fall down the front cover and a peg that prevents the chain from falling off the crank sprocket. Make sure everything is clear as its not attached to both head and block (for example. heater hose for both thermostat attaches to the block and another neck hose attaches to the head). -Tilt the head left and right carefuly as you want to slide the head off the chain guides that get in the way. I didn't have anyone to take pictures of that but you will see what I mean.

Place it on a flat surface with rags, pillows, blankets, etc so that you dont have it scratched, warped or anything bad. Don't flip it upside down unless you remove all the rocker arms. If you remove them, keep them in order the way they came out.

Thank you and goodluck.

If you use this pictures or any information, please contact me first at [email protected] for permission.

Edited: Thanks to- Taesoo aka ILikeMy240sx

Modified by mrzabala at 12:38 PM 6/1/2007
Modified by mrzabala at 8:51 AM 6/24/2008

Please let me know if there needs to be any changes. Its by far not complete, but I have done my best with the limited time I had.

good writeup thanks for taking the time

Thank you.

awesome job man...i've been trying to find a thread like this for awhile now...props on being the first i've found! And thanks!

It is the first ever DIY and you can search all you want on google.. I finally man up, stopped waiting, and did the steps to take off the head. I made sure to take many pictures since I wanted to help out others that dont feel comfortable doing this (because I wasn't). I plan on editing but require some more accurate info like what mm is for this and that bolt, etc. so it will take time or if someone can get me the info I'd appreciate it.

haha excellent write-up!! i knew you could do it by yourself!



looks like you manhandled your block.

sweet... change my headgasket now, I'll buy you a lap dance

nice write up....

quick comments. Just wondering why you wrote to remove your crank pulley... for removing the head. Also you can remove the cams without removing the sprocket. Just loosen the cam caps as shown in the FSM and it should pop off with a bit of force and you just remove the entire thing. Makes things easier to remove and install.

And for those of you without a messed up fron cover, you can let the chain go (let it fall down the front cover) because at the bottom of the front cover, there is a little peg that prevents the chain from coming off the crank sprocket. Ive swapped many many many heads and everytime Ive had no problem with it letting it fall down.

Thanks for the information. I should have the crank pulley removal removed from this as Im planning to do more DIYs like installing a new Timing chain with front cover, changing the front seal, etc. But, I dont have the time nor have done it yet to take any notes and pictures. This is actually my first attempt by myself on any engine especially an import. Previous engines I didnt care about even though I helped work on them (maybe cause they were carburated hehe..). Anyways, if possible let me know what else I can do to this write-up. And Ill find some time at night to edit. Thanks again.

ILikeMy240sx wrote:nice write up....

quick comments. Just wondering why you wrote to remove your crank pulley... for removing the head. Also you can remove the cams without removing the sprocket. Just loosen the cam caps as shown in the FSM and it should pop off with a bit of force and you just remove the entire thing. Makes things easier to remove and install.

And for those of you without a messed up fron cover, you can let the chain go (let it fall down the front cover) because at the bottom of the front cover, there is a little peg that prevents the chain from coming off the crank sprocket. Ive swapped many many many heads and everytime Ive had no problem with it letting it fall down.

Alright I did some editing and used your info. Of course, I gave you credit. If theres anything else let me know. Thanks. If I could type this out like on word, it would be much cleaner. Oh well.

Will have more DIYS to come.

<---votes for Sticky Status

Thanks. Anyone else have anything to add or edit, dont hesitate.

Great writeup! I was planing on taking my head apart to install cams,valves,retainers,and Ras. I'll deff be looking back at this guide for answers.

Thanks. I just finished installing my arp head bolts. One was giving me trouble but I managed to work it out. So much for hand tightening arp studs. Anyways I hope the 1.8L Voltswagon Vetta and SR20DET use the same arp bolts or Ill be pissed... I was going to do a write up on changing valve seals and such in more detail but I think Taesoo got most of the details and I just want my engine running.

Awesome stuff, going to sticky this until the article man gets it.

thanks luke. I was wondering if Chris has articled this since I talked with him like 3 weeks ago. Anyways, please tell the admins about the article section needing an update. It kind of sucks also to have 3 different places to go for articles. Be best to have tohem all together in one site.

cam cap bolts are 10mm

cam sprockets are 24mm IIRC.

those 10mm hex head sockets break a lot. i usually go through at least one per head. anyone have any reccomendations for "beefier" units? i always break the craftsman ones, go get another :P

and for the head bolts, i use a 1/2" breaker bar and a AE86 front strut insert (pipe) to double up with. get's my 1/2" bar to about 3' long but i would reccomend longer or at least a friend to hold the motor from spinnning and turning and stuff.

Well I heard snap on hex sockets break too.. best choice is to get 2 from craftsman as you don't want to strip the thread with cheapos.

Thank god for this write up..helped me in HUGE ways...i would like to see the DIY assembly (i know it basically is the same as taking it apart just backwards) but im sure theyre are some things you need to do to get everything right. I had no problems what so ever and it was more of a fun learning experience for me and my buddy other then it being a stupid hassle. Just got my head back today and am bleeding my lifters tomorow and putting it all back together. I hope it goes as smooth as it came off

Will be easier with your friend and if timing cover is off with chain and guides (if working by yourself). Everything is straight forward. I think the hardest part about the assembly is lining it up. Be careful if using arp bolts. Make sure its hand tight and all level. If not level, tighten with ratchet slowly. Taking a engine building class makes this look like a piece of cake now.

THANK YOU. man i can't tell you how easy it was to take off the head because of this write up.Dad and I took off my head today and it was so easy. Thanx again, owe you a drink.

Hey, glad it helps. Taking an engine rebuilding class this semester and it makes rebuilding an sr much easier. I'll be head down to Sacramento soon to check out a car, so I'll take you up on the offer (no alcohol though hehe).

hey i have a aftermarket tach and wanted to know if you know what color wire on the distributor or ecu does it hook up to a ka24de

Do you have to take out the cams??

Of course..good luck getting at the head bolts without doing so.

Man this rocks, very detailed! I might actually do this thing now.

I'm in the process of doing my head gasket and I can not tell you how valuable this was to me today. Thanks a ton for a great write-up!

Haven't been on much. Trying to get back onto 240s again. Glad to see this article is helping people out.

sbird1 wrote:I'm in the process of doing my head gasket and I can not tell you how valuable this was to me today. Thanks a ton for a great write-up!

No problem

positronone wrote:Man this rocks, very detailed! I might actually do this thing now.

Glad to know. Just be patient and it will come together

Kenrik wrote:Do you have to take out the cams??

White people..

nizmoguy wrote:hey i have a aftermarket tach and wanted to know if you know what color wire on the distributor or ecu does it hook up to a ka24de

What the hell?

Kudos to you good sir....

this is just what i was looking for since i will be swapping out my Head gasket and putting in ARP headstuds this weekend.

Thanks again