DIY: Rebuilding an SR20DET

For the RWD SR20DET cars! Sponsored by Wiring Specialties.
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Asia989
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duffman1278 wrote:For the most part, yes they are pretty close to dead on. However a set usually has an array of different gauges from like .05"-.23" you need to get yourself a proper set so you can properly measure the gap.
.012 is what its saying


Kalypso
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HIJACKER!

can you log into the PB account and reactivate it?

im reading this intently, but i'd love to have the photos.


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Hijacker
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Yeah. I just found out the other day that photobucket is doing this whole "log in" bullcrap

Kalypso
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indeed... it is lame, naturally a one time 'login' can cure this.

but i was dismayed when i went to page one, to see that the photos were still inactive...


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Hijacker
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It's odd because photobucket won't let me log in due to an invalid password, but the reset function isn't emailing any of my registered addresses.

I may just end up uploading the rebuild pics to my primary account instead.

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amolao
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I also need to see some pics....Getting ready to do a swap. Meanwhile here are some questions for the experts:Im doing a head gasket swap (sr20DE) with OEM gasket. This is a DE and not looking for power here.Can I use OEM studs/bolts...?? Do I need new ones or reusing the old ones is acceptable?

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s13-t
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When getting the block decked do you have to do it with the front cover mounted? Cause I had mine done before getting a new oil pump and it makes sense that they wouldn't be even... do they have to be perfectly level?

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Hijacker
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I don't recall sending my cover off with the block when I had it decked. But it's not as important as the actual block and head IMO. Especially since you can swap it out with no worries for a new part which would obviously be not decked with the block.

Update on the photobucket crap. I'll probably just add it to my usual account. I had created a separate account to keep bandwidth issues out of the mix, but PB's telling me my account and pass are invalid to log in now.

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themeanest240
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This thread seems so informative, please hijacker, figure the pictures out!thanks!!!!

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s13-t
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"Take the supplied wrist pin and test fit it in your rod's small end bushing. If it's a tight fit, take some emory paper and work out any left over gunk and burrs until the wrist pin slides in. You want to avoid any binding"

Hey hyjacker, im about to begin my "slow low budget rebuild."

during dis assembly I literally had to hammer the stock wrist pins out. So I got my cp pistons today and wanted to test the fitment. I coated the small rod end and the wrist pin in redline lube then pressed in the pin. I was able to get the pin in without difficulty however I couldn't get the pin to rotate inside the rod at all. time to break out the emery paper???

Kalypso
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themeanest240 wrote:This thread seems so informative, please hijacker, figure the pictures out!thanks!!!!
yes please find that login and username.


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Asia989
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yay its back up!

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s13-t
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no... no its not...?

91S13.5
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they are working!

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s13-t
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just scrolled through the thread. SOME of the pics are up and working. About half way down page 1 the pics go to the inactive account pic.

Kalypso
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I believe in this thread.

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s13-t
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its working again.

Kalypso
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amolao
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Thanks for the pics, Hijacker....

Im currently getting ready to do a head gasket swap. A couple of questions:

After taking the head off, can I turn it sideways or flip it to clean the bottom deck portion without dropping or loose any of the components like the shims, valve seals?

Any tips on sealing the timing cover and oil pan...? After doing a few timing chain jobs in the past, my engines always eventually developed bad leaks. I used toyota gasket maker but I think my technique was somewhat poor....

Do I need to bleed the lifters during this process?thanks
Modified by amolao at 7:32 PM 3/11/2010

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s13-t
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amolao wrote:Thanks for the pics, Hijacker....After taking the head off, can I turn it sideways or flip it to clean the bottom deck portion without dropping or loose any of the components like the shims, valve seals?

Do I need to bleed the lifters during this process?thanks

Modified by amolao at 7:32 PM 3/11/2010
no.... Do NOT tip the head over unless you have removed the rockers, shims, and lifters. if you need to clean that surface then baggie up all the valvetrain parts organizing them like "exh1-8, int1-8"

I would bleed them. It wont take long to do and its just a peace of mind kind of thing.

The gasket issue... Make sure the bead is even, not to big, not to small, and dont overtighten because the gasket will squeez out. good luck!

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Hijacker
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I have no clue what happened as I had started moving the pictures over to a new PB account and the old one went active. That's absurdly odd.

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amolao
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Im half way thru the process and one hex socket down. I noticed that one of my lifters seems to be dead, no spring action at all, completely lock out. What are my options, get a new one, try to bleed it, etc...??

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Hijacker
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I would just get a new one. If the check ball is sticking, it means that there's something in there (burr, or some foreign material) or it's corroded (unlikely if it's had oil, but you never know)

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amolao
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The cleaning of the old head gasket is the worse part of the process....slow and tedious.

Hijacker, Im using an OEM head gasket with non deck block/head, do you recommend the use of copper spray to help with the sealing ??

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Hijacker
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It can't hurt, TBH. But the OE gasket would probably be ok without it. If you got spray, use it.

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SxMachine
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GREAT POST why it isnt stickied I dont kno. But I'm refreshing my bottom nowand have a question abt using a breaker bar or torque wrench...
Hijacker wrote: Take a breaker bar and tighten until your bolt mark lines up with your girdle mark. Wipe the markings clear.
...I thought the torque wrench was the MAIN tool used on the bottom end when tightening things back down.

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Hijacker
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You torque them with a torque wrench to the specified torque load. THEN you have to stretch the bolt by tightening X degrees (hence the paint marks). It's easiest to do the bolt stretch portion with a breaker bar.

Also, I didn't sticky it because we have a ton of stickies, and it's better to have a sticky with links in it (The underused FAQ) than to have 10 stickies clogging up page 1

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SxMachine
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Gotcha, also ive seen people apply assembly lube to the mains and thrust bearings, funny how the fsm isnt specific on where to lube. I assume it wouldnt hurt to lube any if not all metal to metal contact points?

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duffman1278
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Don't lube the bottom of the bearings where the bearing meets the block. Lube it on the top surface where the bearing contacts the crank/piston.

After it's assembled on the bottom end, just go ahead and rotate the crank a few times to get the lube to get on the surfaces nice and even.

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SxMachine
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Any news on the Mahles clearing the squirters. Ive heard they fixed the prob but dont know anyone that has used them lately to update.


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