I haven't broken any yet, but I haven't heard if Malle changed the design on their end. I honestly doubt they will, so for the time being it's probably best to continue to reclock the squirters.

I'm close to buying pistons and emailed enjuku concerning mahle piston clearance and according to them they do heh. I was wondering though if maybe the na fwd (non squirter block) mahles were being sent out in the past instead of the rwd versions. Not that clocking them is a prob.

The issue isn't if they sent out pistons based on a FWD block, the issue was that they have a standard design for their pistons. Then they just plug in the dimensions for the application and make them. They probably had a FWD block to test and fit on, yes, but in the end it's just a homogenized design.

Hi just wondering on my sr crank I bought it has three sets of numbers on it. Not sure if someone asked this already but which set identifies the rod bearing grades. First is main bearings is it the first after. Thanks for the help.

11222
1110
0113C

Go to page one

I've got a question for you Hijacker- decided to just bump the thread in case others run into the same issue someday.

So, I think I made a mistake when my friend and I put my engine back together. Basically, I tore it down to the block to install the head gasket, head studs, new timing chain components, etc. With everything for the most part back together this evening, I went to install the timing chain tensioner and the chain still has a lot of slack to it. I tried turning the crank pulley counter clockwise to get it to engage like the FSM suggests, but it still did not gain any tension. When I removed the tensioner, it had extended- meaning that it was exerting force on the timing chain guide as it should.

My question is this- should the timing chain guides be able to pivot freely? For example, should I be able to poke my finger down in the head and move the timing chain guides back and forth? Right now, I cannot move the guide at all, even with a decent amount of force from my finger. I am thinking that when I installed the guides, I tightened them too much and now the tensioner cannot move the guide to allow it to pivot and remove the slack from the chain.

I am bummed, but glad I caught it now before the engine is back in. Curious to know your thoughts. The torque spec for the guides is only 12-15 ft lbs I believe, so I am guessing that I over tightened them somewhere along the line. I don't remember if I torqued those specifically or not since this was back in February- I should have torqued everything though. Just want to know if this is a plausible hypothesis or not- the guide bolts have a shoulder on them that SHOULD prevent them from being overtightened I would think, but maybe not.

Thanks in advance- this is a great thread!

Damon

HiJacker's gone for 3 months. I would say it's a possibility, though. You're talking about the ones that come up like a V right?

(I had an issue with mine where the chain wasn't seated right. It caused the same problem. Took me 3 different times to notice it... It was just barely caught.)

Gotcha, thanks for the info!

Yeah, same here! I went to reset the timing on my cam shafts, so i decided to clean up a bit, removing those. I overtightened them and it puts those guides in a slight bind if you don't put it on that 15 pds, lol.

Good luck

Abbreviation for pounds is lbs.

I actually had the bolts swapped between the two guides, so it wasn't allowing it to pivot. I tore it down and sorted it out and it seems like all is well now.

were in america. i just started spelling it. then stopped. then started again.

Agh the laziness.

I just followed your thread while rebuilding mine, great stuff. Helped out alot. I was just wondering what brand and weight i should use AFTER the break-in oil??

I usually use Mobil-1, but that's just me. Go with whatever quality brand you prefer and stick to a good weight oil for your climate.

Hijacker wrote:I don't recall sending my cover off with the block when I had it decked. But it's not as important as the actual block and head IMO. Especially since you can swap it out with no worries for a new part which would obviously be not decked with the block.

Update on the photobucket crap. I'll probably just add it to my usual account. I had created a separate account to keep bandwidth issues out of the mix, but PB's telling me my account and pass are invalid to log in now.

It is actually somewhat important to deck the cover when decking the block...although a couple thousandths won't make that big of a difference...your head will not sit flat (when considering that it'll be a couple thousandths up in the front), which could lead to a leak in hg sealing to the block in cylinder one, especially in high boost applications. I don't like dealing with decked blocks/or heads period as most machine shops (local ones...we're not talking major companies) won't give you an EXACT amount of how much they took off. I like to make sure my compression ratio is completely known even after the thickness of the hg is taken into account. Anyway overall great writeup hijacker.

It was brought to my attention I neglected to put factory ring gaps in the write up. Updated the post with engine internals to reflect factory gaps. Also got around to tossing a google images picture of a piston ring compressor. I'll update the other posts in the coming days when I have some spare time. The shift to the new forums deletes all the image tags in each post, making it a C&P pain.

I am rebuilding my sr20. I just installed my intake cam and I can't move it. Do you have any ideas why? I already tried a different cam thinking the other one might be bent and it still won't move.

Was the original OEM one, or a aftermarket?