I FOUND THIS ON YOUTUBE. BOTTOM LINE, THIS VIDEO IS FULL OF FAIL, BUT IT SERVES AS A PRETTY GOOD MEDIOCRE "HOW TO". i will be doing my own soon.

i found this video to be accurate, but dangerous:

• 1. never work on a car, thats on a stock/oem scissor jack (unless on the side of the road. the rocking motion can cause it to buckle and drop the car.
  2. DO NOT spray any lubricants onto the face or the rear of the rotor. that lube will melt, dribble(like it did in the video) onto the braking surface and contaminate your pads. if you want to use a tiny bit of brake grease between the hub & rotor, thats fine.
  3. DIDNT LUBE THE SLIDER PINS(long bolts). THE WD-40 WILL DETERIORATE THE RUBBER BOOTS.
  4. PISTON DUST BOOT DIDNT GO BACK IN CORRECTLY AND NEEDS REPLACING, RISKING PINCHING IT. I SUGGEST A REPLACEMENT.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LLBYOdnON_Y[/youtube]

Great video
When you try to remove the inter pad, you actually get the rotor lose.
Mine was stuck badly when I try to replace it

you guessed it.... mine failed(need replacing at only 73k)

symptoms:
LEFT(driver side): cracked boot, in 2 places. piston is exposed and rusted. but the piston still goes back into its cylinder. obviously caught this in time.
RIGHT(passenger side): fluid inside the boot, pushing the boot outwards when you attempt to push the piston back in all the way.

as with the fronts, the local auto stores do not have these in stock, and i am stuck with ordering from ebay. we are talking about $102/each. i have never in my life heard of such disaster brake issues. this is something i'd like to punch nissan in the face, over.


here is a video of the driver side boot:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E__S7SFKJEM[/youtube]

just ordered semi-loaded rear calipers. will be replacing soon.

Did you consider just repairing the caliper rather than replacing it? New rubber costs less than $4 per caliper



http://www.rockauto.com/

One other general word of caution regarding those rubber caliper seals: Although Nissan recommends copper grease, that grease should not be on the back of the pad where the piston presses against it, as it will degrade the rubber.

lne937s wrote:Did you consider just repairing the caliper rather than replacing it? New rubber costs less than $4 per caliper



http://www.rockauto.com/

One other general word of caution regarding those rubber caliper seals: Although Nissan recommends copper grease, that grease should not be on the back of the pad where the piston presses against it, as it will degrade the rubber.

1. its more work and hassle to rebuild calipers, than you think. you have to completely take it apart, blow the piston out, clean and polish the cylinder, etc.
2. replacing just the boots and seals, wont resolve your issue. your piston or cylinder might be pitted/rusted/damaged; which will need a new caliper anyway. its a huge gamble when rebuilding calipers.

Got both rear calipers today.

5.56 wrote:

Got both rear calipers today.

They went on without a problem. I reused my old brackets and rubber plungers.

Gonna rebuild my old rear calipers. Today i took one apart and the piston & cylinder look fine.

This is what i used on the slide pins. Its rubber and plastic safe

i have an extra set of rear calipers. brand new. (non-factory new. these are rebuilt by centric)
(comes with the mounting bracket, shims, banjo bolt, and banjo bolt washers)

Both calipers as a set: $110 shipped anywhere to the lower 48 states.

i also will part with the rear calipers i rebuilt for $75/each(free shipping).
these come with the caliper only.